subusolo2nut

Yea--grind-grind-grind:banghead: makes sense---pilot would make noise only when clutch disengaged & the trans would have made noise before--- glad you found it--- Dean

Interesting---Did you replace the small bearing in the flywheel (pilot bearing)? Could also be a problem with the throw-out bearing--will noise change engage/disengageing the clutch? Is the freeplay adjusted? Noise is most likely a bearing--

Hey Adam--was great to see you on Sunday--an' the ride up the road was well worth it:grin:---I'll return the favor when T-Rex gets the EJ22:D

I might Drag T-Rex, but he earns his living in Autocross--I am planning a busy season next year--Have a full Autocross season (placed second in class this year--behind a roadrace "streetable" 510 Datsun:confused: )--I plan on being "FIRST" this next year:grin:--Want to compete in at least 2 Hillclimb events (SCCA stuff) & I've been invited to at least one club event at THUNDERHILL!! 3 miles & 15 corners:banana:--as fast as you can produce power---ROADRACE baby!!!! So--I have a fair amount of work this winter:grin:

Well-Like I was saying--I built up the flairs with the race rubber on--I need to get a wider set of street rims for the tires--Got to install the EJ22 engine first--

Ok-I've not posted in a few days--the last two weekends i've been down at the shop--removed about 15lbs of wire from the 'loom--made the flairs look better (still need to cover foam & smooth & re-glas)--and did some general clean-up--anyway--here are the current pics (and yes, I know the street tires don't fill the flairs--I finished them with the race tires on--I still need to get better streets--) Still need to design the front dam and rear cap--Adam was by and showed me the '84 RX--good to see it running--anyway, we talked about future 'glas parts--more info later---

Hey Josh!!! good to hear from you--As if I couldn't tell from the handle----Yea, We are done for the year--Final points put me in SECOND place ahead of Tony & the Ford--I was knocked over by the 'ragin 510--WAIT TIL NEXT YEAR!!! You know whats up with that--- Workin in the car this weekend--pulling the front off & cleaning up the flairs--got the bid on a "ahumm" early Mini front air dam that I'm going to use---Yea, I know--I know:-p---The heims are going in the front A arms on Sat---And I'm re-designing the rear suspend with un-equal A arms & coil-overs in the next few weeks-- As for the adjustment & how it all works--no problems as of this time--when I do the A arms, I expect that there will be next to 0 movement in the suspension--the caster available is from 0 degree to 5 positive, so you can set it almost any way you want it--I expect that the caster total will decrease as I increase the negative camber--but the amount should still be in the 2--3 positive range while allowing about 1--1.5 degree negative at the lower ball joint--I'll post pics Sunday or so as to the finished mod---the A arm will have to be slotted in a circular pattern--pics will follow---- Later----

The handling is much "tighter"--I feel that I can corner about 2/3 mph faster & can place the car more predictably---the next step is to heim the inner control arms--I'll be designing them in the next couple of weeks---

OK--got enough pics to show what was done---in advance--remember that they are on the inside of the "framerails", so they won't get a lot of spray--I've been running them for two weeks now & went thru a couple of rain storms--and didn't clean them before the shots---

Make sure you use hose & clamps rated for fuel injection--the hose is much stronger & the clamps are a "full-circle" type--just ol" hose clamps "bite" into the hose & shorten the lifespan--I've replaced hoses before their time because of wrong clamps---

I'll have some pics tomorrow night (forgot to take the camera with me today):-\--As for the Grade 8 vs Grade 5--Whatever works for you--I used the 8's cause I had them & the shear is over 12,000lb--The CG8's will shear at about 10,000lb--hope to NEVER have to test that on the racetrack:dead:--offroad it would be better to use the 5's--they will deform without breaking--so you could still get back after a "bash". Later!!

You can also goto Amazon.com & look for Suspension design books--I've always liked a book in my hands--and a computer in front of me:grin:

Well-I'll see how they go--the area is pretty well protected & I designed it to stay out of the spray--so--we will see in about a month or so---

Thanks for the vote--as for the cost--two industrial CG8 joints & 1/2" grade 8 bolts ($20)--4 offset spacers to allow full travel of Heim joints ($6)--1/2" internal moly tubing (about 1'--$5)--two tube ends ($8) & some misc steel (scrap around the shop)--pair of EA82 rods ($10 from a local wrecking yard) + 3 hrs of my time to design & weld = much better handling. sounds like about $50 to me--not accounting my time of course:grin:

Well-When I changed my tires to 205/50vr15's--I started having problems with suspension "kick"--could have also been the 0" offset rims I'm now using:)--So, I needed to design a more positive way to control fore'n'aft movement--took a pair of EA82 rods (larger in diameter than the EA81's)--cut off the rubber bushing ends & redesigned the body mount & rods to accept Heim joints (steel rod ends)--this allowed me to have a adjustable Caster setting & produced almost 0" fore'n'aft movement & made the up'n'down movement almost free-floating-- I'll post the pics in the next day or so--looks like a good mod for people that "stress" their suspensions more than normal & allows Caster change too:brow:

We just had our autocross this weekend--T-Rex was second in class, behind a roadrace Datsun 510 (two track laps for one run--we were out for over 2mins)--He got me by 2.33sec--I was trying some new brake pads by Hawk--allowed me to go much deeper into the corners before braking--cones only for corner markers:)--you guys would love it--it's almost like a roadcourse---you can hit 3rd gear on the front straight:grin:

He could always use the old "it's a sea of cones & I got lost":grin: Out here we have a Gocart track with about 40 different set-ups--include all the clockwise & counter-clockwise directions, about 300/400 options--cones only where needed. Great fun----

YEA!!! And WRX decals will add 10HP--STi decals add 20!!!

Ok--The question that I've not seen asked--Will WRX pedal pads fit a older car? YES-they are a direct install. You know--the ones that are aluminum with the rubber dots. The brake & clutch pads just install like putting a new pad on--I was looking at the aftermarket pads & didn't like the way they installed--seemed real mickey mouse & I bet that they wouldn't stay on real well, so----The other day I was working on a '02 WRX & I got down to really look at the pads--the accelerator was different, but---So I ordered a set. They came in today & I took the old pads off & just put the WRX pads on---EASY. The part numbers are---36024FA010 for the Clutch & Brake 36024FA000 for the Accelerator I'm going to get a accelerator pedal from a Legacy--the WRX pad has a cross-pin & is spring loaded so you need to use a newer part-- In case anyone wants to know--

THANKS!! I didn't realize that they raced the 4WD version of my car in Japan--The number 60 car looks quite a bit like the way I'm heading--gave me a good idea how the front spoiler/air dam should look--- GREAT INFO!!!!!!!!

DAMMMMMMM!!!! If I had a set of those, I'd for sure not want to do an EJ22:slobber::slobber:

DAMMMMMM! Mercy killing, anyone???? I think that one has waaaaaay too much time on th' hands---

Yea--I like the power possiblilties with the EJ22--I just need another Dellorto (about $150 with jets), cut'n'reweld the intake for the dual carbs & set the distributor--then bore the engine-flow & shave the heads & get some good cams--looks like $700/$800 to me--the 5 speed out of a Brighton 2WD is costing me $300---So it looks like about 150Hp for a grand & the car will most likely be 3/5sec faster at the track:grin:

Sounds good & looks like you're heading the right way--you might want to come down & autocross with us--the track is bitchin' & there are some great cars--also, you get to go as fast as your skill allows:grin:

Well, You are right & wrong--You have a restriction too--Carbs & fuel injection both share throttle plates--which are a varable restriction in the intake--In the case of fuel injection, you have one plate--normally in the 50mm to 80mm size (depends on engine size)--I'm putting two 40mm Dellortos on--which each have two 40mm throttle plates--so four plates at 40mm--owing to the fact that the total won't equal 160mm due to internal resistance (venturies), I should see a real amount of 120mm or so--So, in reality, the carbs will have less resistance--which will lower my low end throttle response, but give me more high end power. As for still air in the intake--also right--at low rpms--which might cause fuel pooling & drop-out--but once the engine is running over 2000 or so, the air stack will be moving fast enough to avoid drop-out. So, the main difference between FI & carbs is where the fuel enters the air stack--you inject X amount about 3/4" from the valve & I'll spray X amount about 6" from the valve(s) (negative point), but be able to increase the total CFM intake available to the engine two-fold.(positive point) Good question--as in anything involving racing, there are pros & cons