Gene J

Sad to say I tried everything to get my pins out. Including a puller (it bent) and a torch. I even tried a giant pipe wrench to break it loose. I ended up getting new brackets and pins. Still way cheaper than having a shop just do the rotors and pads.

THE test for the Phase 1 engines is the test for exhaust gases in the coolant. A hose collapse could have caused your over heating. It the hose was collapsed it did not have too much pressure in the system. It might not be the gasket. When my HG went it was an intermittent problem. It would be fine for months then get hot just putting around town. Then it would be bad only on the highway. One symptom of the HG is the the heater only blows cold air. Have your car checked by a pro. You just might be lucky.

I had a great day at the track today with High speed Autocross! It was just a learning session but still an absolute blast! I mounted the video camera on the headrest bar on the passenger side using the hand strap, Velcro and a green tennis ball. The view and the sound was excellent! My son will transfer it to a DVD for me this week. Discoveries? The Subaru GT had bigger C A Jones than me! I was only able to get the tires to squeal a bit twice. I have a long way to go. And those were on the much hated stock Bridgestone RE 92s The suspension and brakes are performing way beyond my capabilities. And way beyond what a stock 2.5 engine can do. The termperature gauge never moved from normal. It might have gone even better if the ABS worked. I have to replace the tone wheel when the weather gets better. It takes a bit of confidence to not try to slow down a half block before the turn. All turns require a down shift to second gear. If you stay in third, the BMWs 3 series and Porsche 911s will run away from you. If you go out of the turn in second they will not catch you until the middle of the straight. It is OK to wind the engine tight. It won't throw a rod at the red line. 50 minutes of track time will take your MPG from an average 22 so far to 11 for the whole tank. and worth every penny!

Looks like it should just buff right out! Glad you are OK.....

Open driver's door. Turn ignition key to 'On' Press and *hold programming button* in (under dashboard) After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Do not release Programming button Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed. The door locks will cycle one time. Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off.

In 98 keyless entry was standard at least on the GTs. The alarm was an option.

Thanks! As expected the alarm went off as I opened the door. Turning the key 3 times didn't do it but cycling the power locks 3 times did! Now I pushed the Valet button so it may be OK for now!

Yeah it is gone. I have reset the remote numerous times in the last 10 years. I know where the button WAS! I even took off the botton of the dash last weekend trying to find it. There were a few connections with nothing plugged into them but no button anywhere.

98 Legacy GT. And the reset button is missing......

As I have posted the alarm remote stopped working. I changed the battery and nothing happened So the remote entry has not been used since then. It snowed today so I drove the Subaru. That is what they are for! Well I get to the office, lock the door with the power lock switch and I heard a chirp-chirp with the accompaniing flashing lights when I closed the door. I tried the remote. No luck. I know when I open the door with the key the alarm will go off. Now what do I do??

It is a factory remote entry but the alarm feature was a dealer installed option. I am the original owner!

Today the alarm would chirp but not unlock the door. I replaced the battery in the remote and then it died completely. I thought the remote might have died do I tried to reset it to the Code Alarm remote from my pickup. I have done this before. I have reset the Code Alarm in my 98 GT many times over the years. You turn the key to "ON", press the button under the dash, the lock cycles a few times, you press each remote you wish to use and then let go of the button. So today the button was gone! I took off the bottom of the dash and the reset button is nowhere to be found!!! I did fine a few plugs with nothing in them! Does any body know the colors of the wires that the button was connected to?

I have had a Actron 9145 http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9145-AutoScanner-Diagnostic-Capability/dp/B00020BM2S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1205685187&sr=1-5 for a few years. I love the fact that you can watch the engine inputs like RPM, temp, load, ignition timing etc. It is way better than just a code reader.

I usually keep a car until it starts degrading the neighborhood. Or until I feel I can't just get in it and drive across the country.

My 98 GT wagon has a manual transmission. How quickly does the center transfer actually operate since it is a fluid coupling and has no clutches? To test it, I put the front wheels on a patch of ice and the rear wheels on dry pavement. The front wheels did spin. But the car did move forwards. Just not as quickly as if it were a RWD car and fully engaged. Did it work properly? Is there some other way to test the AWD?

The IAC in my 98 GT has a flaw where at slow idle it just dies. I could not get the throttle body off since some screws were striped. I just turned up the idle a bit. The slowest the idle will now go is about 750 RPM but when it wants to go lower it throws a check engine light. In the summer if the air is on the RPM never wants to go that low. Some day I will fix it.

3M weather strip adhesive. Ask for it by name.

Mice ate the wiring in the trunk of my convertible. It killed him. Found him in spring. Darn mice.

Are you sure it just doesn't need a battery?

You realize that the OEM kit has a longer wire for the #4 cylinder right? I found out the hard way too!

For the record wipes and water did not do it. Aerosol contact cleaner did the job. Get the kind that does not melt plastic and all will be well.

After having strict instruction never to eat or drink in the car, the kids ate at McDonald's and put a soft drink in the cup holder. It leaked all over the radio and heater making them sticky. Ick... Anyway the shop manual tells how to test the controls but it is darn cold around here. Are there just contacts back there? Can I spray in some contact cleaner and hope for the best?

See the above posts. It really is easy.

I replaced the original struts with KYB GR2 struts. Am I imagining that it is sitting an inch higher all the way around? The 98 GT wagon did sit on jack stands for 3 months but I remember the car being a bit lower.

05-07-07 It was time after 100,000 miles. Cornering was not the pleasure it once was. We needed to replace the struts with KYB GR2 units. So I bought new struts from Summit Racing which had the best deal on line I could find. No performance springs were to be found anywhere from any source at any price for our wagon. The decision was made to stay with the stock GT springs which really have no issues and are actually pretty good. We had a great summer and did not find the time on weekends to install these struts. 10-16-07 The Daughter calls and reports that the clutch has gone bad because it does not disengage anymore. The manual transmission will not go into gear and it grinds badly when an attempt is made. Following instructions, she starts the car and drives it home in second gear. She is really good! 10-20-07 We started on the front struts and decided to do a “While I am at it.” on the front brakes. There is a shimmy from a warped rotor, only the center third of the pad is touching the rotor, the brakes are a bit spongy and the car does not stop as it once did. We finished installing the front struts. Kids of all ages love air tools! The rotors are rusted on and will not come off with any amount of persuasion. Soaking them with BP Blaster did not help. We will let them soak for a week. We discover why the rotor warped. It was because a lug nut was lost and the tire store replaced it with an American nut. The stud was cross threaded and the store compensated by over tightening a few of the other 4 lug bolts. Fortunately a new lug nut solved that problem. We make a list of parts we will need after inspecting the car including the hydraulics for the clutch. 10-23-07 We ordered the first set of parts which included new OEM brake pads and a clutch slave and master cylinder. Lots of other items like new pedal covers etc are also ordered at this time. This car will be so great after we get done! 10/27/07 Since the parts did not arrive in time for the weekend we could only finish the rear struts. We learned that we should have lined up the arrow on top with the bracket on the bottom of the strut. It is not easy and a real a PITA to rotate the strut with the springs on. We learned and did not make the same error on the other side. Pounding with a big hammer and heating the rotors with a torch did not do the rotors any good. The cheap rotors from the last brake job did not have the bolt holes to push the rotors off of the hub. We ordered new rotors from a local parts store and picked them up the next day. Measuring the rotors showed they probably would not have machined up clean anyway. The darn things still did not come off. 10/30/07 Parts arrive. 11/3/07 We brought back one Chinese made front rotor as the back surface had seriously large low spots and pits where it was not machined. Really big bad spots would have eaten the new pads in no time. About 25% of the machined surface was missing. We got another rotor which happened to be in stock. The new pieces have the screw holes to get them off for the next brake job. A lesson is learned. Plug wire installation is for people with skinny fingers. If you do not have skinny fingers remove the washer tank and air cleaner and you will have easy access to the heads. The fuel filter is also easy to install! We will not need to do that again for another 100,000 miles. The slave cylinder went on easily on Friday and all of the slack was instantly gone! I needed a daughter to help put on the clutch master cylinder and bleed the hydraulics on Saturday. The pedal was nice, hard and did not stay on the floor when depressed! However the clutch still did not disengage. There was now no hope that the clutch was alright! We tried to get the rotors off using an 11 inch puller and an air gun. No luck. We always welcome the chance to buy new tools. And kids still like air tools! When we attempted to assemble the front brakes we discovered 3 out of 4 sliders in the caliper brackets were frozen solid. That explains why the brakes were so bad. We tried heat and a 3 foot pipe wrench on the sliders to break them loose. Not a chance in heck. The brackets are not available from an auto parts store except as part of a packed rebuilt caliper set. There would be no problem if it was a Honda. Since the calipers were good and we had a new set of new pads the packed parts did not make any economic sense. At that point even if I could get the pins out I would not trust those parts. 11/05/07 We ordered the second set of parts which included the caliper brackets and slider pins. They were not cheap but they were needed. 11/07/07 The parts place called and said the parts are backordered at Subaru. 11/14/07 Parts are shipped. 11/19/07 Bracket parts arrive. After some confusion which is quickly cleared up we figure out how the slider pins fit. Thanks guys! 11/24/07 Heart Attack and Bypass. I will not be working on the car for a while. 1/5/08 A buddy comes by and we get one rotor off and finish the right side. Left front rotor will not come off. A few pieces of the rotor broke off while trying to get it off. We will have to wait for another warm day for plan B. 1/12/08 I tried a propane torch to heat that darn rotor. That and a hammer did not budge it. After a half hour it was still cool to the touch. But that is what rotors are supposed to do. Get rid of heat! The trans shop offers to get the rotor off for us when they replace the clutch. 1/17/08 The wagon is off to the clutch shop on a flat bed. The truck backed into my drive way and when we were pulling the wagon up we almost got it stuck in a tree. Flat bed tow trucks are taller than you might think. 1/22/07 We get the car back! Woo Hoo! The brakes feel good, the clutch feels good and the struts are way better. The clutch fork was bad and ate the through out bearing. Also while getting the rotor off (they had to chop it in pieces) the ABS wheel was damaged. There is no ABS for now. We will deal with that in Spring 1/22/07 The car is out for alignment. That sure took a while!