efseiler

well the clutch does now slip a little bit...when the car is more laden (with extra passengers, for example) the shudder problem is not so bad.... What are symptoms of clutches failing anyway in this make and model of auto? I haven't driven a standard in many years so I can't remember.... I flushed the hydraulic fluid and it made a slight improvement but that's about it.... Thanks for your help and input! --Damien

well in my experience it takes about 20 miles of driving in that particular case to re-generate the code. --Damien

Based on research I did a few years back (I did once have a 2.5L engine that experienced HG failure) it is very possible to maintain a 2.5L engine to very high miles but the driver must take great pains and meticulous care of the coolant issue. The tiniest bubbles within the water jackets can lead to HG failure with that particular gasket installed. I don't think Subaru engineers thought there would be so many failures... --Damien

Well then take it into an Autozone and have them erase the codes...apparently they offer that service for free...at least they did a few years ago...I don't know...maybe their store policy has changed since then. --Damien

I noticed that the tiny nozzles through which windshield washer fluid flows (both front and rear) are actually adjustable. By inserting a pin you can adjust each of them individually both up and down...left and right. --Damien

That's normal I think...unless you swap an ECU (TCU?). A couple of electronic values become different so it causes a voltage bias somewhere in the circuitry that makes the ECU generate a code. If the shops are really nitpicky about the CEL light being on just disconnect the battery before you show up to reset the 'puter and be sure to wear dark sunglasses (so they can't see your lyin' eyes). :-) --Damien

I hear torquing the bolts is crucial...also acquiring the redesigned gasket as well.... --Damien

It's true... My oil dipstick had some varnish baked on its very tip....after dipping it in some 'Seafoam' it had basically completely dissolved after only 5 minutes. (alright...I had to massage it a little with a Q-tip) Be careful, tho...'cause excessive use will cause oil seals to fail prematurely! (and perhaps gaskets as well!) Cheers! --Damien

Is it normal for the clutch slave cylinder (which, incidentally, is shaped just like one of Thor's 'mini-hammers') to get so hot...? I tried to bleed it after a drive and I could barely touch it it was so hot! --Damien

The problem with Seafoam in the crankcase it is that I does cause oil seal failure and possibly gasket seepage. However, this may depend strongly on which formulation you are using (see below). My strategy is to use about a 1/3 in the crankcase, run the engine for a few miles...then let it sit overnight. Start the engine...let the mixture circulate again and then immediately change the oil. One thing about Seafoam in the tank is that it honestly seemed to cause the oil to get far more viscous and even a bit jelly when cold. I would wager that the heat/pressure in the combustion chamber probably causes certain unintended chemical reactions even with the thin film of oil coating the inside of the cylinder on each stroke. Given the composition of oil these days there may be such an unintended consequence given the older (apparently) formulation of Seafoam. I noticed that there are two separate and distinct formulations of Seafoam. One has a greenish tint (and a more acrid smell) and the apparently newer formulation is clean and not so offensive to the nose. --Damien

The problem with Seafoam in the crankcase it is that I does cause oil seal failure and possibly gasket seepage. However, this may depend strongly on which formulation you are using (see below). My strategy is to use about a 1/3 in the crankcase, run the engine for a few miles...then let it sit overnight. Start the engine...let the mixture circulate again and then immediately change the oil. One thing about Seafoam in the tank is that it honestly seemed to cause the oil to get far more viscous and even a bit jelly when cold. I would wager that the heat/pressure in the combustion chamber probably causes certain unintended chemical reactions even with the thin film of oil coating the inside of the cylinder on each stroke. Given the composition of oil these days there may be such an unintended consequence given the older (apparently) formulation of Seafoam. I noticed that there are two separate and distinct formulations of Seafoam. One has a greenish tint (and a more acrid smell) and the apparently newer formulation is clean and not so offensive to the nose. --Damien

I had a problem similar to that with a Saab I used to own years back...they leave my Subaru alone, tho. Don't ask me why! --Damien Hint: If you look at 'Subaru' in your rearview mirror...you may discover a planet in our solar system!

You sure it's not just your sense of perception? Maybe you should drop that engineering degree off at your local university... --Damien

Right...but I think there were some binding issues as well...could be a different sort of failure. Something additional, perhaps, for Mr. Engineer to think about.

You know...that's a good point! Shocks/struts may play an important role in how the 4EAT transmission responds/operates (and also wears). I had almost the exact same problem in the '96 OB I used to own. I found that fluid changes/flushes and additives alleviate the problem. One possible solution that I never had the guts to try was using one of the real cleaning solvents. (e.g. TransTune) One user on this forum reported a major positive difference when using one of those products. I can attest that proper additives/fluids often provide a low-cost solution and may be necessary as part of 'preventative maintenance' procedures. --Damien

It's just a reminder that ease for 'Le Mechanic' can mean 'major headache' for many others.... and then, of course, is the problem of 'pieces of paper with funny letters and numbers on them' v. 'hard currency'. --Damien

well...the ability to move complex, massive objects nimbly and at great speed...that sort of thing. There are those with the heart do to it quickly and easily and oftentimes it comes at the expense of others.... There's like a Holy bank account related to that sort of activity, anyway... Drivers are 'pretty guilty' as well.... :-\ Cheers! --Damien p.s. I daresay Japan suffered the latest ill-effect of such a bankruptcy...

well then...d**ned if I know! --Damien p.s. Where do you get all those labor resources from?

eh? Well the question did seem relevant to the thread title Mr. Disorder. 300k miles? Yeah probably...those engines are pretty hardy. You're a skeptic it would seem from your responses...but certain eyes really can just tell from a glance anyway. --Damien

Is there any way to tell the build year of the engine by serial number? I've got a swapped EJ22 in my '98 and I'm a little concerned about the timing belt... I can't really tell if they've done a timing belt recently...I'm guessing not. The engine doesn't seem to be very old or used...I'm guessing 60k miles on it. --Damien

There's probably a lot of truth to what he says. In my old Subaru they put in some whole new, funky, different exhaust assembly and it really cut into HP, mileage, pickup, etc. --Damien

I used 'U' clamps to get rid of the rattle in my old OB. Now it makes a metallic 'bonging' sound in my new Subaru (and I think it's 'pretty cool' so I just leave it). :-D --Damien

speaking of gas additives...I overcame my skepticism one again and bought a couple bottles of the Lucas stuff. I put just a half bottle into the tank of my OB and...wow...what a difference it makes in pickup and horsepower. Zoom! It even makes my drivetrain shudder less when I downshift using my new (iffy) clutch. I'm going to save the 'Startron' stuff for wintertime when the cold temperatures cause problems with water buildup. Shell gas seems to be quality enough that I may only have to purchase additives every once in a while now. Hooray! --Damien

Well I bought the car from a UCD...it's got a 3000mi 90 day warantee. It's got 127k miles on it. I don't know how many city miles...it came from West Texas so I would kinda guess it's got lots of highway miles on it. Paperwork says it was bought in Upstate NY, tho. --Damien

well likely the flywheel needs to be resurfaced...I guess that's going to be done...er...'on the fly' :-D I'm guessing the more I drive it...the mutual grinding action would better mate the surfaces. At least it's got shocks and struts that are in excellent condition...and the body is nice, too. It would be a miracle if I could get my dealer to do all that 'for free' even tho it may covered under warantee. --Damien