Fairtax4me

Spin it twice and of they still line up you're good to go.

Pry bar or a big screwdriver. They're just really tight. Usually takes a pair of channel lock pliers to get them put back together.

Yeah most people look at you funny if you ask for a BPT adapter. Kinda not really surprised that someone at a parts store wouldn't know what an oil pressure guage is.

You might check with a local parts store and see if you can rent a pressure guage set.

10-12 psi at idle is correct. Should have at least 10 psi more per 1,000 rpm. How long had the engine been running when you saw those pressures? You need a guage wih a more accurate scale to really see what it's doing at idle.

Post in the wanted section here. And check the for sale section because there are always a few people parting out cars from that era.

I would check the timing belt and make sure it hasn't jumped timing. This could also be caused by a leaking fuel injector or o-ring. Or you could have a valve that isn't seating all the way.

Any evidence of mice getting on the engine and chewing the wires? They like spark plug wires for some reason. And a car that sits for a while looks like a good home to them.

Backfires through the intake? Does it do that every time you start it?

Never heard of that before. Broken wiring should set a code and wouldn't matter of the sensor was plugged in or not, because the ciruit is open anyway, unless the signal is dropping intermittently. Same with short to ground or one wire shorted to the other. Either the sensor is giving the wrong signal, (possibly the wrong cam sprocket installed) or there is a problem with another sensor that is being corrected or overrided by the ECU going into failsafe mode. It seems to me that unplugging some of the other sensors, such as the temp sensor, or MAF/MAP should produce the same result.

Yellow wire on the fuel pump relay comes from the ignition switch. Same wire feeds the ignition coil, and tells the ECU to turn on. Check the yellow wire on the ECU. Should be pin 85. 2nd wire from center on the bottom row. Also make sure the main ECU ground is connected on the intake manifold. I think its down low on the drivers side near the flange where it meets the head. And make sure the two large connectors on the bellhousing are plugged in tight; and the connections are clean.

I think most people in general don't want someone looking over their shoulder while working. It's distracting, and people tend to ask a lot of questions when you have to get out the blue wrench and the grinder to break loose rusty bolts. And we all know what happens when you're working and its hot and you start to sweat, you get that itch that's inappropriate to scratch in front of people!

Just for future reference, torque wrenches are never to be used for loosening. Torque wrench = tighten only Axle nuts suck. I put a wheel bearing on a friends honda about 3-4 years ago and a couple months back the bearing started making noise. (Cheapo bearing) I torqued the axle nut with my torque wrench when the bearing was originally replaced. I broke two breaker bars (craftsman) trying to get that axle nut loose. Finally had to go get a 3/4" drive socket to fit the axle nut and put a borrowed 3/4" breaker bar on it with a 5 foot pipe. Had to get my 300lb friend to stand on the pipe to crack the nut loose. Same car I had to buy a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley so I could get the crankshaft bolt loose to change the timing belt. That took a 4 foot pipe to get a 19mm bolt loose!

No, the key cylinder doesn't affect power. Why was the ignition switch replaced? That's something that can be tested pretty easily. I would have opted for a used switch long before laying for a crap aftermarket with the wrong number of wires.

Proper weight balance will give you the best results. Limited slip and locking diffs will negatively affect cornering. The wheels need to rotate at different speeds when turning. If they don't, you lose traction because one wheel skids as it tries to turn the same speed as the other. Get the weight distribution even from left to right and you will not have trouble with one wheel slipping. Run a larger sway bar on the rear to allow more front suspension roll. This keeps the tires in contact with the ground, and will encourage the back of the car to rotate, giving you an oversteer effect.

The refrigerant is in a compressed liquid state for about half the trip around the system. Starting at the compressor as a gas (vapor) the refrigerant is compressed and travels through the discharge hose to the condenser. Compressing a gas creates heat, that heat is what maintains the gas state. As the refrigerant moves through the condenser heat is exchanged with outside air. About a 35mph wind is created by the cooling fans drawing air in through the front grille. As the heat is drawn out, the gas condenses to a liquid. From this point the now cooled (but still hot) liquid travels through the high pressure line from the condenser to the receiver drier, which is used to draw any moisture out of the refrigerant. It then flows out of the drier, and to the expansion valve, still as a liquid. As the liquid passes through the expansion valve, the pressure drop means the refrigerant cools, but not so much that it immediately turns into a gas. If it were to turn or gas instantly, the core temp would drop below 32° quickly, and the core begins to ice over. Keeping the refrigerant under pressure maintains the refrigerant as a liquid until it has traveled almost completely through the evaporator core. The trip through the core adds heat to the refrigerant, which combined with still being under pressure, ideally keeps the core temp and refrigerant just above freezing as it evaporates back into a vapor. But ideal conditions never exist in a car AC system. Pressure changes, air temp changes, air flow change across the core, compressor speed changes, all cause the temperature and the boiling point of the refrigerant to change, which can still cause the core to drop below freezing. Anyway, at this point, the refrigerant leaves the evap core changing back to a vapor state. The low pressure line routes the refrigerant back to the compressor, and the heat under the hood helps to ensure that the refrigerant is totally vaporized by the time it gets back to the suction port of the compressor. Oil in the system just works its way around with the refrigerant. A large part of it rests in a non pressurized area of the compressor.

Hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters on these make a hell of a racket until they get pumped up. Takes a little while sometime. If it doesn't stop after about 30 minutes you may have got some crud in the feed passage for the rocker shaft. This requires removing the rocker shaft assembly to clean the crud out. Fans, as said above, make sure both are plugged in. Yes, you have to be careful of the AC lines on the compressor. Flipping the compressor out of the way is easy enough, but it can also bend the blocks that mount the lines to the compressor, and cause a leak.

Have to take the whole trans apart to get the diff out. It won't turn at all if you weld it.

Defrost setting runs the AC. If you're trying to get rid of heat, its much more efficient to use the AC on the vent setting.

Good to hear you got it going!

If the relays don't click when you turn the key on, you're not getting power to/from the ECU. ECU turns on those relays. It supplies 12v on the light green wire for the main relay. ECU grounds the purple wire at the fuel pump relay. Check the yellow wire at the fuel pump relay for 12v with the key on. Same wire supplies the turn on voltage to the ECU. If no power there the ECU will not turn on the relays. Have you checked all the fuses in the underhood and dash fuse panels?

Just depends on who owns/ runs the shop. If it were my shop, you would never see anything like that, (at least not in a lobby/restroom or public area). Dealerships and respectable independent shops generally don't allow that sort of thing because of the likelihood of offending and losing customers. The same goes for most other morally questionable, racial, sexist, religious, etc, content, just as you would see in any other professional workplace. But some people don't know or don't care that something they display in their office or shop may be perceived as offensive. Maybe they spend too much time in the shop looking at dirty mags and not enough time with the real thing? Who knows!

Where is your meter grounded? Do you hear the relays click on when you turn they key? Fuel pump relay will only stay on for about 2 seconds then the ECU shuts it off until the engine is running.

Do you have a picture of the one you need? I know you can get the linkage rods with new bushings from the dealer.

No cut-off or kill switch on these. Security system issue sounds likely here. Poke around under the dash and look for a keyless entry control module. If you find it, order some remotes on eBay.