Fairtax4me

Legacy wagons if they had rear speakers would only be in the rear doors. No speakers in the cargo area.

Supposn it's possibly the airbox on the throttle body isn't assembled correctly? Only other thing to make sounds like that would be a driveshaft carrier bearing or differential. Differential noise should be pretty evident at higher speeds (about 60) as well.

R.I.P. Blu. FEMA is about worthless and so is the Red Cross lately from what I've read. No personal dealings with either and I'd like it to stay that way. I'd say you made it out pretty well compared to many others, despite the shortcomings of the so called "assistance programs".

I would think them to be 6.5" round same as the legacy of that era, but I may be wrong. It's also possible someone already swapped them at some point.

One of those between years where Subaru was updating brake parts and just tossed on whatever they had left. Definitely something to look out for though. These tend to be very easy to knock off so I wouldn't doubt the shop may have lost them and didn't even realize it. $20 for a set seems stupid expensive though. Almost wonder if the dealer stocks them cheaper. Rockauto lists them for $5-6, But shipping from them sucks for something so small.

When did jumped timing due to the lack of this guide become an issue? I had heard of some newer cars having problems with that during transport because of the car being rocked around while in gear. It seems to me that EJ engines were sold for about a decade before this little idea came up, how frequently can jumped timing be traced directly back to this guide plate not being in place? Seems to me the timing tensioner should hold adequate tension on the belt to prevent jumping.

Simple fix: Fill the engine through the upper hose before attaching it to the radiator. Have never had an issue with overheating after a coolant change using that method.

What would be wrong with just removing the guide plate?

Front seats, suspension parts, wheels, brakes maybe. Alternator can be used if you swap the plug. AC compressor maybe. Other than that I'm not too sure.

There won't be any different info in a car fax report. Autocheck and CarFax use the same sources to find information, most of it comes from DMV records. If the DMV record is incomplete (no mileage data, etc) then it doesn't show up on the report. I'm a little skeptical of this car because the price is just a little low. I would have the car checked over by a competent machanic and a good body shop (look for repaired frame damage, recent paint work,etc) before taking the plunge.

These don't fail all that often. Junkyard part should be fine.

That's why he asked. Dual port EJ headers will fit an EJ18 Impreza, not an EA81 /EA82 1.8.

The coil could have cracked or could be carbon tracked. Clicking could be the spark jumping straight to ground. Could be evident at night but not guaranteed to actually see the spark where it jumps. (Could be an internal jump) I'd replace the coil. The old 2.2s are not particularly picky about plugs or wires. I just use regular copper NGKs and have car-quest wires.

You need to unbolt the fuse panel from the fender and the lower cover can be removed. The main power wire in to the fuse box is just held on with a bolt/nut. It could be frayed or corroded, or the branches that go from there to the fuses could be corroded or damaged.

You're on the wrong marks. The passenger side cam should not be under any tension when aligned to the proper timing mark. I think you used the arrows instead of the dashes. Fear not, as when the cams spin it's because the valves are CLOSING. Review the proper marks for timing, then turn the crank to proper alignment first ( should only be 90 degrees clockwise) then set the cams. When set properly: The passenger side should rotate about 20 degrees in either direction of the timing mark with little/no resistance because the cam lobes will be between the rocker arms and there will be no spring pressure applied to the cam. The drivers side cam should sit still and will have spring pressure applied directly on the nose of the lobes. This will make the cam difficult to turn by hand, and moving it more than a few teeth in either direction will cause it to snap over. Arrows on the cam sprockets will point 45 degrees to the right. Arrow on the crank will be at 90 degrees to the right. (as viewed directly) Dashes for timing! Not arrows Only differences I know of for water pumps are turbo vs non-turbo. Turbo pump will have multiple outlet pipes and a front facing thermostat opening. Non-turbo will have one outlet and down facing thermostat opening.

I'm glad you think that way, but there are a LOT of people who don't. It only takes one ********************* person to put a business under and ruin the reputation of (and possibly imprison) a good person such as yourself who is trying to make a living selling tires in his/her shop. Nearly every shop that does any type of automotive work has a disclaimer already on their invoices, and require that you sign the invoice stating that you firstly: authorize the shop to work on your vehicle, and secondly: understand the risks that may be involved, and thirdly: release the shop of liability if a part fails, except in the case that said part is covered under a warranty, which is usually also included on the invoice. What's BS is that they have to have that disclaimer at all. In a perfect world, it wouldn't be needed. But in a perfect world, we would all drive Lamborghinis and Ferraris (or what-have-you) and would never have to worry about tires, or anything else for that matter.

Just comes down to liability. They put on tires with the wrong rating, someone gets in an accident because of a blowout, tire shop gets sued. Simple as that. They're covering their own because when their insurance finds out they didn't mount tires that match or exceed the factory specifications, insurance tells them they're on their own. And the lawyers will eat them alive.

I think there's only one way we're gonna find out. Even if its not the same, can't be that hard to modify it to fit.

Welcome! Funny that chassis under the Frankentruck is so recognizable! Is that all band equipment stacked up in the back?

Yes there is. Dealerrater.com. Most people here go to the dealer only for parts. Occasionally a thread gets posted asking for or voicing opinions on a particular establishment, but no section of the forum devoted specifically to that purpose.

Perhaps something was just gummed up and new fluid finally washed it away.

I would check in the offroad sections. The rally guys pretty much have to have fuel cells, and the offroaders use them as mentioned before to keep the tank from being ruptured out on the trails.

Brown. It's the rearmost sensor.

Yeah that one should have the black plunger type with the round housing. Those have some issues and you can take them apart to clean but I think you might have a wire issue to the sensor or the sensor is damaged internally. Those are all low input codes which could mean there isn't enough voltage getting to the sensor, or there is unwanted resistance between the ECU and sensor. If you got a P1507 as well check the wiring to the neutral position switch, and make sure the switch isn't sticking when you shift in/out of neutral.

If the struts are leaking they are not controlling the rebound of the suspension and wheels properly. Replace both of those and inspect the sway bar links and lateral and trailing arm bushings.