Fairtax4me

I think the forester wheelbase is the same as Impreza, which is about 3" shorter than the legacy/outback, so that driveshaft will likely be too long.

I asked because the bore is a different diameter on the 2.2 head gaskets, and it's possible the piston could make contact with the fire ring of the gasket if the wrong gasket is used. Another reason for making sure to use the correct gasket is that the 96-98 Dohc engine pistons crest above the deck of the block, and requires a thicker head gasket to keep the pistons from making contact with the head. 99 shouldn't be like that, but if that engine has the two piece style tensioner it's possible that's a 96-97 engine that was swapped into a 99 car. You can verify the engine year by checking the VIN stamp on the lower right corner of the bell housing. Make sure the tensioner isnt flopping around when it's running. If it's an auto trans make sure the torque converter to flex plate bolts are tight. Other than that, probably gonna have to pull the heads off again.

Seems like It's stuck in limp mode. This could be just a loose connection at the main wire harness connector for the transmission. Or Could be damaged wiring or a bad ground. Having two ratio codes might suggest that one of the transmission speed sensors has failed or is sending a false/incorrect signal. Very unlikely for 5 solenoids to fail all at once.

If the inside edges are wearing it's probably a toe angle problem. Have you had the car to an alignment shop to have them check it?

Did you use 2.5 head gaskets on it?

It's a captured nut inside the sheet metal. If the threads on the bolt are stripped off, I would try running a tap through the nut to clean the threads out, then use a new bolt and that may get enough bite to hold it. If the threads in the nut are totally gone, Make a small cut in the metal next to the nut and see if you can slip a speed-nut in for a slightly longer bolt to grab into. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-85911K/86-04-Mustang-6-Peice-Body-Speed-Nuts?year=1999&gclid=CLfLvcW12c8CFclbhgod1_MMCQ

If the caliper and pads fit around the rotor then the piston is compressed as far as it will go. The top of the piston will not always be flush with the caliper when it's compressed all the way. Some calipers are designed so the piston sticks out slightly. That doesn't mean the piston is stuck, or that it's causing the brake to drag. with only 55k miles on a 3 year old car I wouldn't think about that even being a possible issue. If the brakes were dragging enough to make a noticeable difference in fuel economy and power you would see heat discoloration on the rotors and possibly on the calipers, and would be able to smell the pads burning after a drive.

If it's jumping timing the tensioner is bad. Period. Replace the tensioner.

Get the starter as well. MT starter is different than the automagic starter.

You removed 4 of the bolts from the clutch pressure plate. Totally unnecessary, and it's possible to cause damage to the pressure plate by doing that. Are you pulling the engine to replace the clutch?

Yeah those rubber plugs fall apart all the time. Don't need a trip to the dealer though. Easy to fix if you have any plastic trim push-clips laying around. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159974-cruise-quit-working-quick-fix-for-a-common-cause/

How bad is it scored? I would just remove whatever was caught in there and keep running it.

Either the shoes aren't pulled back all the way or theyre the wrong ones. Is there any paint on the pivots that might be holding them out? I've had to grind edges down on pads and shoes before to get them to fit properly.

Get it changed somewhere else, or buy the stuff and change it yourself so you know what's actually in there. Hard to trust a service dept that's just going to blow smoke when you ask them a direct question, even worse when you work with them.

Split point pressure on 2.2 engine models: Disc brake (w/ABS): 427 psi Drum brake (w/oABS) : 533 psi 2.5 engine models with disc brakes(w/ABS): 533 psi Reduction ratio 0.3:1 for all. These are the same for 95-99 Legacy. Per FSM specs. I'm not sure if there is a difference in the number of or placement of ports on ABS vs Non-ABS proportion valves, so not sure if those are interchangeable. Could you tell if the ports in either of the needle valves were clogged?

What is the recommended oil viscosity for your engine? This is usually in the owners manual, and is sometimes on the oil fill cap. Some engines are designed to run 0w-20 weight oil and if that's the case you'll likely have nothing to worry about. If the engine is supposed to have 5w-30, then the 0-20 will be too thin at operating temperature and can cause major damage due to low oil pressure. Full Synthetic oil does run much easier through small leaks, but how badly depends on what The cause of the leak is. Subarus in general have "seepage" problems, and you'll have that no matter what oil you use. Using full synthetic vs conventional oil will not generally turn a seepage into a full blown leak.

Any idea what model that new valve came from? Different models had different pressure split points, so you may get more or less pressure to the rear brakes. It can be an advantage if you know you want more rear braking pressure. But could also cause easier rear wheel lockup, and subsequent intrusion by the ABS system.

A tip I forgot earlier. Before you remove the rocker shafts pull the timing cover and set the cams at their timing marks. This leaves all 8 valves on the right head closed, and takes the spring pressure off of the rocker arms which makes it much easier to remove and re-install them.

It should probably be on both. My guess is something caused port in the the right plunger to clog, pressure built too high and caused it to push the spring off. Proportion valves are actually very simple, it's just impossible to get parts to rebuild them. Take it apart and see what you find, but you'll still have to replace it. Good news is, junkyard is a good option since those almost never fail.

Did you check pressure warm as well? I would pull the valve cover and check the bolts that hold the rocker shafts on the head. Make sure they're all tight. If the bolts are tight I would pull the rocker shafts and check the oil supply ports for obstructions.

I'm not sure if there is anything mounted under the vehicle on that side, but I would focus on that side looking for a part that may now be loose on a hanger or bracket. The metal tabs on the screws appear to fit inside of those black plastic pieces above them in the picture. The springs could have been there to cushion vibration or shock of the part they were on, or were part of some type of adjuster maybe. I would guess a fog lamp adjuster, but I don't see anything that looks like that in the parts diagrams for the fog lamps on the 15 models. Plus if the fog lamp adjuster broke I think the bits would have been caught in the splash shield.

Any particular area of the car where they would have been under when the car is parked in the garage? Front? Rear? Left/right? They don't look like car parts to me. No dirt or rust on the screws. Anybody else use the garage for a project when you're not home?

70 psi cold. The bypass valve is set for something like 70 psi on these so pressure should get up there pretty quick with cold oil. At operating temp after running 30 minutes or so you should have 10-14 psi at idle (750 rpm) should come up at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm above that.

Gotta chill out on those power shifts man! Jk, bad luck for sure! Did it chew up the needle bearing on the counter shaft, or did it shave the teeth off?

Cooler lines or the spin on filter if it has it. Seals are kinda of picky on these. What brand of seal did you buy?