Fairtax4me

Symmetrical AWD is mostly a gimmicky term. The Subaru Drivetrain is mounted dead center down the middle of the vehicle. Engine, trans, driveshaft, and rear differential are all nearly perfectly in line. So the axles are the same length on each side of the car. The right half is symmetrical to the left half. With most other AWD or 4wd vehicles some part of the system is mounted off center of the vehicle, which changes the weight balance of the vehicle. On most AWD vehicles the engine and transmission are mounted transversely, with the engine being more on the right half and the trans more on the left half. The axles then have to be different lengths, which can lead to several adverse handling affects, such as torque steer, for example. The Subaru AWD system doesn't have that problem, since it is balanced by weight left to right, and by axle length left to right. This lends to better handling and better traction in situations where AWD provides a major benefit.

When was the last coolant change? Ten years is a long time for radiator hoses. The heater hoses usually last much longer if they're not exposed to oil. Also, don't cheap out on replacements. Subaru OE hoses don't cost much more than parts store stuff, and you don't have to do any cutting/trimming, and they last much longer.

VSC is one more thing to break. Subarus drive just fine without it. A responsible and defensive driver will never need it, even in an emergency situation.

Was kind of thinking carrier bearing too. It's the center bearing on the driveshaft. That one might make a noise closer to what you have, and could be influenced by heavy throttle. The only good way to check that is to get the car up on 4 jack stands, put it in drive and get the wheels up to about 30mph and crawl under with a mechanics stethoscope. With the FWD fuse in I think the noise should not change any under heavy throttle.

That is a ton of carb for that tiny engine. Especially since the edelbrocks use mechanical secondaries. If you can't get it to run decent, switch to a Rochester Q-jet with vacuum secondaries. The secondaries will only open as far as they need to, which for that engine will probably be very little if any at all.

You swapped the transmission? Did you check to see if the new trans would shift through the gears before installing it?

That is loud isn't it! It's almost not quite differential, but not quite wheel bearing either? It's an automatic, have you tried running it with the FWD fuse in to see if it changes?

Sounds like you got a 97 or 98 ej22. Those had solid valve adjusters that need to be adjusted every now and then. No biggie. Bolt your intake manifold on the new engine and drop it in the car.

Yep, 80w-90 gl5. Problem with the autos is that normally if they start making noise it's usually the pinion bearing going out. They don't last long when that happens.

You won't find that seal at rock auto. It's an o-ring seal they usually come in a pack of two from the dealer. The same o-ring is used on the front drivers side behind the front cam support housing. This thread shows removal of the front support but also has a couple pics of the rear cam cap on the passenger side. Two bolts and it pulls off with some wiggling. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/82774-driver-side-cam-sealing-22/

How many miles on the car? Head gasket leaks are common, unfortunately. But on the engines from that era the leaks tend to be very slow and are manageable if you can stand the smell of a little burnt oil. If it's not leaving a puddle under the car it's not really worth worrying about. Coolant stop leak won't stop an oil leak, and that engine isn't know to have external coolant leaks from the head gaskets, so I wouldn't even bother with putting the Subaru coolant stuff in it. The other likely place for an oil leak on that engine is the cam carrier seal. There's a plate about 3/4" thick that bolts to the cylinder head that holds the camshaft in place, and the valve cover bolts to that. The seal between the carrier and the head is just RTV and will often start leaking oil somewhere around 100k miles. Sometimes sooner. Again though, this tends to be a manageable and very slow leak.

Year? Model? Purge valve would be my first check. Just pinch off the vacuum line that goes to the valve. If the valve is leaking that will stop fuel vapor from getting through, and should stop the problem if the valve is the cause. Sometimes if the purge valve is leaking you'll get a code for the evap system, but it depends on what kind of driving you do. It takes some time and certain conditions for the evap system monitors to run properly, and those contitions may not be met every time you drive. Other possibilities would be a bad ECT sensor, bad MAF sensor, failing fuel pump.

Is it automatic or manual trans? Could be coming from the front differential? I know the manuals tend to make some whine from the front. Autos can but it's less common. The front diff fluid is separate from the trans fluid on autos.

If the key is magnetic you could try tapping a strong magnet against the opening of the lock and see if it will pull the broken part out. Other than that, some trickery with paper clips and a sharp pick tool may get it slid out enough for you to grab it with some pliers and get it out. Worst case you remove the whole switch assembly and take it to a locksmith. Might cost $40-50 to have them remove the key and cut a new one.

Wheel bearing failure usually produces a low pitch grumble or helicopter type noise that increases frequency with speed. It may not always change with load conditions, but is typically not affected by throttle input. A high pitch whine that changes with throttle will be the differential. Some noise from the hypoid gear set is normal. Excessive noise will usually be accompanied by glitter in the fluid as the gear set wears, and that would indicate imminent failure of the ring and pinion gears. If the fluid came out clean, the noise is probably normal and nothing to worry about.

I don't have a service manual for the 2010 forester, but somewhere there's a relay for the fog lights. Might be in the fuse panel, might be under the dash on the drivers side somewhere. I would try replacing the relay first, or if it's the same as a relay for some other component try swapping them and see if the lights work properly. If they still don't work properly the switch stalk may need to be replaced.

Has the engine been removed twice? How was the transmission supported while the engine was being removed? A jack under the transmission pan will dent the pan and can damage transmission internals. It could block the pickup of the internal filter. It could have damaged one or more of the solenoids in the trans. The IAC code and high idle are probably because of a vacuum leak. A poor seal around a gasket maybe. Seems to me like a lot of these problems are self induced. The hood flying open and subsequent body damage is the fault of the mechanic or driver, not the vehicle. There's no need for a preemptive head gasket replacement at 70k miles. Head gaskets replaced with poor quality parts, some one put stop leak in the system and blocked up the heater core?

Was answering the OPs question about 2010+ models. Plenty of info on this site about lifting 90s era legacys. Look in the members rides and off-road sections.

It's not that simple on the 2010 and up models. 95-99 are easy. Forester struts bolt right in. 2000-09 have a different rear suspension setup than the forester. They can be lifted with blocks but not with forester parts. 2010+ are similar to 00-09 models. There are lift block kits out there for 2000 + models that make it easy to get an extra inch of clearance.

Sarcasm, yes. It's not what most DIYers would consider an easy job the first time around. But In the realm of removing engines, Subarus are some of the easiest there are. If you have some tools and can rent or borrow an engine hoist it's is a good weekend project. Out one day, fix the bad seals and put it back in the next.

New info pertaining to the same topic or problem is usually best kept in the original thread. Keeps things organized. Is the fog light switch on your car part of the same stalk as the headlamp and turn signal switch?

Maybe there is a provision in CT that the CEL can be on but still pass if it passes the sniffer test. The laws very by state, so it's hard to know all of them.

If the car has California emissions it may be equipped with a front A/F sensor rather than a plain oxygen sensor. IIRC A/F sensors are listed separately in the torque app.

Emissions I/M monitor testing can only be done on OBD2 vehicles. Which will be only 1995 and newer vehicles. OBD1 does not use emissions monitors. So Subarus and most other vehicles made between 1990 and 1994 will not qualify for monitor testing. They will only be subject to tail pipe testing, though they will still fail an emissions test if the check engine light is on at the time of testing.

You got a 2.2 manifold with EGR? Then you need to use that manifold, TB and wire harness.