Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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I would put an oil pressure guage on it and see if the pressure is building slow when it starts. You should have 70psi about a second after it fires. If the pressure doesn't come up for 3-4 seconds that's going to cause your noise. The passenger head is the furthest away and the last part of the oil pressure feed, so it gets oil last. On the older cars the oil pumps had some issues with the backing plate screws coming loose and causing pressure to bleed off. Seems like that was mostly on the early-mid 90's cars. I don't remember ever hearing about an 02 with that problem, but it could happen. Might try pulling the oil pump and checking it over. There are some mid2000 cars that have had problems with the pickup tube cracking and causing low oil pressure. There could also be sediment or sludge buildup on the pickup screen blocking flow through the screen. -
I think people are forgetting we have ethanol in our gas these days. Ethanol ruins fuel systems, and a year is just prime for ethanol gas to screw up the fuel pump and injectors. It corrodes metal and makes a layer of crust like concrete. Can you hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when you turn the key to ON? It should run for about three seconds to prime the system, then turn off. If you can't hear it from the drivers seat, try what woodswagon said and connect the green test mode connectors under the drivers dash, then turn the key On and you should hear all of the relays clicking on and off. Remove the fuel pump access panel behind the right rear seat in the trunk or cargo area and you should then be able to hear the pump run on/off in about 1 second intervals. If you don't hear it still, check for voltage reaching the pump, and check for a good ground. Check the wire connector on the pump for any damage or corrosion. If that all looks good and you have voltage reaching the pump, the pump is toast.
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Yeah take it back and make them fix it. Unfortunate that you have to deal with them not fixing the car properly. Where is your next closest dealer?
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To replace the entire hose I'm pretty sure you have to remove the tank from the car, which is a major pain on a Subaru. That's going to be a dealer only item, or get a used one from a u-pull-it yard, or maybe find someone parting out a car from that year range. Not really worth the hassle IMO. If cleaning it up and putting the grease on it doesn't fix it, get the o-ring out of the hose and see if you can find/order one online somewhere. I would go so far as to RTV it before attempting to replace the whole hose.
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Do the hoses not have metal clamps on the ends? Usually tightening the clamp will seal up a small leak like that. If it has the plastic hoses, you can often disconnect the hose and make sure the nipple is clean and free of any dirt or rough edges, remove the o-ring from inside the hose with a small pick tool and clean that off as well as you can, then apply some heavy grease to the nipple and pop the hose back on see if that makes it stop leaking. Those o-rings can be replaced as long as you replace them with the same type of material.
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Could have a faulty drainback valve in the oil filter. What kind of filter is on it? Do you know when the oil was last changed?
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Sounds like either the Ring gear is missing a tooth, or the spider pin has fallen out and is hitting the case in one spot as it goes around. Rev the hell out of it and it'll eventually puke chunks out the bottom of the diff case!
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Possibly they left the wire connector that goes to the clock loose. But before puling the clock out of the dash, does any of the back-lighting in the instrument cluster work? Sometimes the dimmer switch gets rolled all the way down and the clock may just not be illuminated because the dimmer is all the way down. Search for how to remove the center trim panel around the radio. Once that's popped out you should be able to see if the clock is plugged in or not. If its plugged in and still not working, consider trying this fix: http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/121140-03-trip-computerclock-problem/?do=findComment&comment=531104
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As said above, if the light comes on there will usually be a code stored in the steering control module. Those should be stored and should not go away when the key is turned off, so a shop should be able to retrieve the codes regardless of whether the light is on or off at the time. With some newer vehicles any code set by any module can be accessed via CAN-OBD2 with a regular code reader, but not always. More than likely it will need to be taken to a shop, since the electronic steering system will need to be reprogrammed after replacing any of the sensors.
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Automatics are less problematic than you might think. These 4eats run for 300k easy with nothing more than fluid changes. Some develop the torque bind issue if people have run mismatched tires or under inflated tires for an extended time, but for the most part they're trouble free. The manual transmissions have a much higher failure rate.
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Dead maf sensor. Unplug the MAF sensor and see if it starts and runs. Might not run well but it should at least run.
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- fuel pump
- fuel system
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Somewhere on the side of the trans there's a plug where you hook up a pressure gauge to check line pressure, but probably not much point. Sounds like the pump bit it, and when those go there's a good chance of chucks metal into the valve body which will be impossible to clean. Pop a used trans in it. Make sure the cooler in the radiator and the lines going to it get flushed.
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Rapid flashing means the alarm is in valet mode and will not arm, per cars101.com. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine
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The inner on the right side is a tripod joint. Those are only supposed to be used on automatics. Not likely to be the source of your noise, but it could create some play in the drivetrain and cause some jerky-loose feel when transitioning on-off the throttle.
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How far does it need to be moved? If it's a matter of a few parking spaces it won't hurt anything to just push it. If it's across town you may want to rent a trailer.
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Should be able to see the axle from above I think. Worst case, chock the rear wheels and set the parking brake hard and it will be fine to poke under with the front wheels off the ground. If it makes the noise when the front wheels are not moving it would be better to have the front wheels on the ground so they don't spin.
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Timing tensioner failing, cogged timing idler bearing failed, cracked flex-plate, bad rod bearing... Could be any number of things. Hard to say without hearing it. Any way you can post a vid of it?
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Is it flashing rapidly or once every few seconds? Those LEDs use less energy to blink for a week than the dome lights use when you open the door for 30 seconds.
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Airbags are easy to disable... Better to not have them than to have them throw chunks at your face IMO.
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Release bearing might have gone bad, or the clips that hold it on the release fork may have broken, allowing it to rattle around until you put pressure on it. Could also be an broken hub spring in the clutch disc. Does the inner cv joint turn with it running in neutral? There's enough friction that even with the trans in neutral the axles can still be driven when the trans is cold. If the joint has fresh grease all around it focus on that.
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If it's related to wheel speed then it's going to be in the drivetrain. CV axle or a bad u-joint on the rear driveshaft. A bad cv joint that clicks all the time will likely make noise at full extension with the car up on 4 jack stands and the wheels turning.
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I'd say they've done pretty well to have identified the problem already and issued a recall for it when it only affects 50k vehicles, rather than extending to several hundred thousand or more as with other manufacturers. And Texan, don't let your vehicle sit on a dealers lot for any more time than what's absolutely necessary. The service contract you sign when you give them permission to work on the car says it in the fine print that they're not liable for ANY loss due to accident, theft, fire, or any kind of disaster, among other things.
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Did you remove both hoses or just one? Should always have flow through the cooler. Possible something in the trans is blocked, but regardless of trans temp or gear position fluid should be flowing if the pump is pumping. I forget what the routing is for trans fluid flow. I'll have to look that up again.
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You're sure it has plenty of fluid? No evidence that the cooler lines split and pumped all the fluid out while you were driving? Pull the transmission pan off and see if the pickup screen is clogged. Other than that, no flow would mean either the pump is toast, or maybe something in the valve body has broken.
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Either a press sleeve or large socket that the inner race can sit on as you press the hub in. Could also place the hub on the press block if you have a press sleeve that the center of the hub can sit on. Then press the knuckle assembly down onto the hub, by pressing on the inner race. Either way can be easier depending on what you have available to press with. But regardless of how you do it, the inner races of the bearing have to be held together as the hub is being pressed in.