Fairtax4me

It should be stiff. New bearings and new seals are tight and make the pulley feel like there is more resistance. The engine won't notice. If the old pump feels loose/spins very easily then it is worn out and probably about to fail. Are you replacing the idler pulleys as well? There should be similar feel to those. They should NOT spin freely. They should be smooth and quiet, but should not spin around and around and around when turned by hand. How many miles are on the car?

What B said. No brake cleaner. Spray it with lithium grease or som other rust inhibitive grease. Move the latch up 1/8" or so, turn the bump stops in about a half turn to take pressure off the latch. Also check the adjustment of the release cable. With the hood open, press the latch closed with a big screwdriver and see how much play there is in the release cable. It should have 1/8" to 1/4" of free play before it starts to pull the release. You should check this at the latch under the hood, not at the lever in the car.

Bent valves are likely with that year engine. Do a leak down test.

I thought the WRX got the 2.0 and the STIs got the 2.5?

I use 5/16" I.D. ATF cooler hose.

I've found on that type of surface it's better just easing into the throttle and letting it slowly creep forward. Not spinning right off the line is the best, but sometimes it's unavoidable. Either way, put some weight in the trunk, it helps. Even when the rear wheels are spinning, if there's no weight on them you don't get traction.

If the module lost power it may need to be re-programmed to the remote. I think there was a thread not long back that said how to do that.

Yeah that could be a keyless entry/alarm module malfunction. Sometimes this can be caused by low voltage. If the battery terminals are corroded at all clean them up really well and make sure the cables get put back on nice and tight. How old is the battery?

Factory alarm system? Just keyless entry? How long did this carry on before it stopped? Or did it stop?

Nobody said to let him live. Those security "key" things can work, when they work. But when they break and leave you stranded in a parking lot on the wrong side of the tracks...

Kinda sounds like an alarm issue. Does the car have an aftermarket alarm system?

Subaru just screwbarued with the exhaust on the later models to make them sound that way. Both of my Legacy's sound like regular ol' 4 bangers. Nothing like the MY 00+ cars that I've driven.

81 posts and still no answer!? So we're still dealing with noise AND the smell? Ever think it could be a gremlin letting out little "toots" here and there while you're driving? Lets see, cheap axles + clunking noise + pulling to right + nasty smell = Cheap axle with a split boot flinging grease on exhaust system? I have a spot on one of the rear axles on my wagon that looks like a mouse chewed a piece of the boot off. Every now and then it flings out a little half pea sized drip of axle grease. Been like that since I got it (9 months?) and there's little more than a few dozen little splatters here and there inside the wheel well. Just a drop here and there, not like a typical ripped boot that flings out a half pound of grease all over everything all at once. Look a little closer at those axle boots. Sometimes splits in the end of the V sections can be harder to see.

MAF sensor code could be broken wires and would cause exactly the type of stalling problem you describe. At random the engine will stall, then restart and keep going like there is no problem. If the MAF sensor signal breaks the ECU kills the engine. A simple "test" is to unplug the MAF, start the engine, and drive around with it like that, but I wouldn't want to drive 50-60 miles that way. I had this same problem with a broken contact inside the MAF, it was difficult to track down, but wiggling the wire harness for the MAF in just the right way would cause it to stall every time. Replaced the MAF and it fixed it. This could just as easily been a broken wire inside the harness making poor contact.

Not quite. I'm dog tired and getting over a cold though so it might be right and I can't picture it. :-p I'll take a picture of my two cars tomorrow and show you where to run the lines.

The water pump is an absolute necessity on Subarus. It's driven by the timing belt, if the water pump fails and locks up, the timing belt breaks and valves get bent. Then you get to pull the heads off again and spend another $750- 1,000 in labor and parts to replace the valves. Subaru head bolts don't stretch so there is no need to replace them. Run a wire brush over them to clean the threads then stuff 'em right back in the engine. Three seals on the back of the engine. From left to right: Wrist pin access cover O ring, rear main seal, Oil separator plate. If the rear main isn't leaking don't mess with it, the other two should be replaced. Don't overlook that $1.50 cent O-ring that takes all of 30 seconds to replace. That thing will leak like a beach when it starts leaking. Remove Oil pump. Check the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump. They can loosen and back out then you lose oil pressure and get rod knock. Re-install pump with new O-ring and front crank seal. http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx And since you'll have access, new coolant crossover pipe O rings will prevent future coolant leaks. Coat them with Indian Head gasket shellac and they'll never leak.

That is correct. They need to open colder because it's on the inlet side of the water pump. It you put a 190 degree thermostat in one of these it would overheat constantly. My wagon sits at about 185 degrees (ECTS reading) at warm idle. Comes up to a little over 200 if I'm climbing a big hill.

Probably just an XT Sport model. A good picture of an 08? XT sport here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2008.html Here's an 07 on cardomain that has been "modded" http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2959346/2007-subaru-forester

You could just call a locksmith. It's probably $75 for a service call but you'll get a new key and they can more than likely fish the broken section out without trouble. I like the needle nose pliers option myself. A flat head screwdriver might also work. Removing the broken key can be as simple as grabbing it with some pliers and pulling it out. But if it twisted, the edges could be jammed into the sides of the lock and make it much more difficult.

In the FIRST 1000 miles I could understand a new engine burning a quart of oil or more. But I would call that much oil consumption excessive for 32,000 miles. Is this a recent problem or something that you have had to deal with since the car was brand new? Have you spoken with your dealer about this?

Diesels get awful gas mileage. They pump it straight out the tail pipe un-burned. They get great fuel mileage though. Sorry, Had to.

On the right track with the equal length header. Sometimes you can find them for sale in forum classified sections. Check some of the performance Subaru places like RS25 or NASIOC. Might have some luck at Subaruoutback.org as well. Another option is Ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-STI-WRX-LEGACY-02-06-Equal-Length-EL-JDM-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-03-04-05-/330667221413?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfd4d61a5#ht_4247wt_836

Well it is metric. What type of adapter you need depends on what size thread is on the hose for your gauge.

Then we have a wire issue between the switch and blower, or between the switch and chassis ground. Pin number 1 (large pin on the end) of the switch harness plug I15 is the ground wire for the switch. Black wire. This wire goes to the harness and grounds at body ground number 7 which is at the bottom left corner of the center dash/radio console. Several black wires come together here and there is a single wire plug about 6-8 inches up the harness from where the eyelet connector is bolted to the body. The fan wiring goes though connector B80 which is in the dash behind the mode control panel. Check for continuity there between connector B80 pin 4 black and yellow wire and the blower connector B87 pin 2 black and yellow wire. This is the ground wire for the fan. With the switch in position 4 there should be close to 0 ohm resistance on this wire. You can also check continuity between connector I20 pin4 (the side that plugs into B80) and connector I15 pin 5 which is the connector that plugs into the switch. Also a black and yellow wire. There should be little to no resistance between those connectors. You can get the FSM to see the diagram for yourself here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ 1995 Legacy FSM, Wiring Diagram Section, file ~5932, page 31. Also, Congrats on the house, baby, and job!

What's the code?