rxleone

Yeah I'm pretty sure someone at redline performance owns one too.

Yeah, come to think, I have seen a WRX up in Auckland with an SR20DET out of a Nissan in it.

Gutted bro, can someone say banned? Aha

What version STI are you talking about here? We can pick up a complete roadlegal mid-90s V4 STI for around $8000 - $9000 NZD here, which is about $6,300USD. Examples here, here and here. Not trying to be rude, but can I ask what you base these figures on? I could understand maybe a very late 2000s model front cut, but would love to see one on a website or something.

Wow dude that is amazing! Hope to see how she runs when she's all properly tuned etc... Congrats!

Has anyone taken it yet? I live in Blenheim and am dead keen. PM Sent.

You are correct on all counts. Hence why I am online on this site, asking the questions now to people who have the experience with this kind of project, before I invest the money in it. While I disagree with your statement of "having an extremely basic understanding of cars" I do have a very basic understanding of driveline components. I have changed out wheel bearings, struts, engines, hell I've even rebuilt engines (with the help of the old man, who is a qualified aviation mechanic) and I'm not here to annoy people, I'm here for help. At the moment, I'm in a city called Auckland, about a thousand kilometers away from my car, visiting my parents and newly born nephew while saving up money for this thing to happen. I am serious about this project, and while I can appreciate your ideas on looking at said vehicles, I unfortunately have to draw on memory at the current point and time. I do understand that ABS is merely an electronic interference of the brakes making them pulse and not lock the wheels up. But instead of charging ahead, I decided to ask on here to see if there was anything untoward in changing the brakes. In mechanics, as my old man says, "There is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers." But thanks for your input, it does help me realise the size and reality of undertaking a project of this size. I intend to do it and do it right, and to me it seems the guys on here are an absolute wealth of information, with special mention to SuberDave. Cheers, John

Sweet, good to hear. Also, the kit from Crossbred looks like you use your original struts. Is this the case and if so, are there any aftermarket coil-overs or higher performance struts that can be used?

Also - When using brakes from, say, a legacy turbo or STI Imp, is the ABS systemnecessary or can you just hook them up to the existing brake lines?

Hey guys, am going to be doing a 5lug swap in my EA82 wagon soon, but we don't get the XT6 in NZ, so can't get the rear knuckles and hubs for them... Does anyone know of an EJ maybe Legacy or Impreza rear hubs/knuckles that are a good rear hub replacement? Am getting desperate now!

I've had this exact problem on an 87 RX - The coolant sensor does a WHOLE lot of playing with the mixture. I had my RX running on three cylinders when warm, tried new plugs, leads, rotor, cap, everything. Then I had a mechanic whom I know well through work tell me about the coolant sensor. Bunged a new one in - Perfect. Give that a crack, I'm almost certain its what you need.

Yeah, I've spoken to a guy who owns a turbo performance shop, and every time some douchebag boyracer comes in with work wanting done, he sells them a vent-to-atmosphere BOV. He says it keeps them coming back when they blow up their turbos Basically, a BOV is designed to recirculate air back into the pipe, so when you shift your turbo doesn't go from 30,000+ RPM to 0. Oh course, the "phooosh" that you hear with BOVs are vent to atmosphere. Most of them don't use a plumback system (where the air is recirculated) it just gets blown out into the engine bay. So basically, they're useless if they're not at least partly plumback. As for putting one into an EA82T, I wouldn't know. I've never tried it.

Oh okay. I take it the ER27 is a non-interference engine then?

That sucks dude. I feel your pain. My EJ20D Legacy blew a t-belt last year, and ruined a perfectly good engine. What sort of six are you running?

Yeah, seals are meant to go in somewhat evenly. You can't hit one side in then the other. Try to find a socket with a diameter the size of the seal, and wail on the end of that with a hammer to get it in evenly.

Yeah true, but if I wanted a high-power front wheeler I'd buy a rice-bucket like a Honda And lets face it, nobody likes Hondas

I'll look into it. Thanks bro.

I know I don't have the experience of doing an actual swap, but I have learned from experience it makes things a hell of a lot easier if you get a lot of good information before you start a large conversion project like this. I suspect by your post you DO have the experience of this swap? If so, any helpful hints?

I'm sure there are as well, but it doesn't change the fact they were and are thirsty, mostly unreliable animals. AFAIK there was never an EA82T (or EA81T) made using a blow-through carb setup. EJ22T Will be sweet in a GL10 dude, you will have to flick us some photos of the build!

Lucky guys. Wish I was in the states

Yeah definitely, my brother has a 1999 Legacy with a 5sp DR in it. They are a push type clutch though, so I wonder if I would run into problems seeing as the majority of the EJ turbo engines are pull type clutches? Suppose I could just swap a clutch from the DR to the flywheel. That would make sense. Forgive me, I'm really quite a noob when it comes to drivelines (except for front axles, seen WAAAY too much of them ) Do the ends of the driveshaft bolt-on or are they somehow splined?

Yeah man, do the belt. I bought a 1989 Gen 1 Legacy (EJ20D) at 127,000km, last year. Belt had been changed apparently, at 85,000km. It was done at 85,000km, but it was only till after the belt snapped and destroyed my beautifully running engine that I found out from the previous owner it had been done at 85,000km.....13 years ago. Do the belts definitely, and the tensioner/idlers, etc. The belt can be brand new but that means bugger all if your tensioner or idlers seize and heat strip the belt. Trust me, its not worth the hassle.

Good point. When you guys in the US talk about getting a JDM engine, does that mean importing one in from Japan? Or buying off a specific importer?

Really? I'm a little dubious about playing with driveline and suspension parts. I suppose if I did put an EJ 5sp it would be better to basically rip out the EA subframe (axles, suspension, etc) and put in an entire EJ subframe? Or is there an easier way?

Do you have any idea what sort of clutch setup would work?