rxleone

Sounds like the choke to me. Though I've never owned an XT6, so I don't know where the cold idle is or why the CEL is on. Have you tried pulling the codes?

Here are the specs for the EA82T: And here are the specs for the EJ22: From that data, in terms of performance, reliability, and economy, the EJ22 wins in all three.

No. There will be some differences, which, in my case, I'd rather rip the whole lot out and start from scratch then to have to fiddle around with pre-existing ECU harnesses etc. I'm not hugely familiar with the EA82T computers, but there are several more sensors in any turbocharged vehicle, regardless of make or model. If I were you I'd try to find someone local to you with a knowledge of how turbocharged engines and ECUs work. Just doesn't seem like you know a lot about them, and the best way to learn is to have someone there to help. Not trying to offend Rare or not, they're horrible engines. If you're wanting to run an EA82T for the sake of it being rare, go for it. I'm just saying that you really need to have some serious funds or a good knowledge of these engines to make them a reliable daily driver. And don't forget, if you're looking to increase the performance or HP of the EA82T, there are many here who have tried and failed, with only a couple making 150HP (? - May need correcting on that number). The best way to run those engines is stock, with maybe a top-mounted intercooler at most. Don't wind the boost up either - any more boost will kill it.

I love the front, but am definitely not a fan of the rear. To each his own though, I do love the ER27

I've never encountered a mechanic around here that does a flat rate charge, unless its some under-the-table after-hours work, which is usually dirt cheap and tax free Where do they get this book info? Is there some sort of universal time guide that tells you how long a particular job takes? That's a ridiculous idea. Not only because of the risk of overcharging, but what happens if you're the mechanic and run into something unexpected (which is pretty much standard on any vehicle)?? Seems like a retarded way to charge to me.

True. Do you have any friends or relatives that know a bit about cars? Subaru's have a few tricks, but all in all I've found them really easy to do a clutch on.

Talk about a flying wedge!! Haha wish we got more of them over here, they're really a love-it-or-hate-it shape!

TBH I can't help you with the ECU, because all the EA82s I've owned were either carbed or I couldn't be fucked fixing them and sold them. But have you checked to make sure there is a bulb in the CEL holder? My sisters fiance found when he had some problems with his twin-turbo legacy that someone had just taken the CEL bulb out when things started going wrong, reset the ECU, and sold it. Could it have happened to you? Seems silly but I've had stupider things hold me back for days.

Maybe I should do an apprenticeship as a mechanic and move over

This is true - I love my GL, but before I got into wheeling my 89' Legacy was miles better. That car was awesome

What?? Are you serious? The average cost for labour in New Zealand by a Motor Trade Associated mechanic is about $60/hr. And we're at 70c to the US dollar.... Jesus.

Those are about the only ones I can find, and not sure what year the first EA81 is.

I love how Justy's sort of resemble a squished in Gen 1 Legacy wagon

Sell it. Buy an EJ22. More horsepower, better economy, FAR LESS problems, and no pesky turbo. Save yourself countless hours down the road by putting a decent engine in. An EA82T is only 115HP (thats factory, so unless its been rebuilt take like 10 - 15HP off that) while a naturally aspirated EJ22 is 135HP. So if you're looking for power gains, EJ22 comes up tops. The EJ22 is regarded as one of the strongest and most reliable engines ever built by Subaru. The EA82T is regarded as one of the worst. Considering you're still going to have to do the wiring and all that crazy crap, I would definitely recommend the 2.2l. It's a no-brainer.

He's right, the only way you'd really save on economy would be the lost weight, which amounts to bugger all really. Why would you want to do this?

Yay for grammar!!

Definitely a broken belt. Easy fix, and when you do it - leave the covers off. Turns a 3 hour job into a half hour job

First off, are you building a turbo engine or N/A? Second - if you're talking about decent power, that gearbox/clutch is not going to do - Get a pull-type hydraulic clutch from a turbo Legacy/Imp. If I were you, I'd just try to find a crashed turbo Imp and buy the whole car to use as a donor. That way you have a harness, engine, gearbox, master cylinder, brakes, everything.

Just wondering if anyone had any guide to splitting an EJ block. I've tried doing it a few years ago with a junk block, but ended up rounding the heads on two of those stupid 12-point bolts. So I couldn't get it open. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this?

If I were going with a EJ20G or EJ205 I would definitely use the gearbox and clutches that came with them. They're a pull type hydraulic clutch, not the push type used with non-turbo EJs. I've seen a 89 RS engine (single turbo EJ20) destroy several clutches and finally the gearbox in an EJ Dual-Range gearbox setup. No dumped clutches either, just too much power and torque.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA Goddammit I love America.

Google this.

Yep, they can be an absolute PITA to get off, especially if they've been over-tightened and been on there for a long time. Horrible things.

Can anyone hear the sound of duelling banjos? Just kidding dude, that is awesome