rxleone

Sounds like a bloody good day to me, with the added bonus of having an excellent vehicle to get you through

Is that gearbox going to hold up to the power of an EJ25??

He's right. I've never seen an aftermarket ECU with a trouble-code port like a standard ECU. They mostly all run the bog standard old-school printer-connecter style serial port right out of the ECU. Check it out.

He's running an aftermarket ECU though, would it matter?

I know you've put a lot of work into that engine, but would it not be easier to cut your losses and run an EJ205 or something? You'd make 300hp easy. Probably shave 3 seconds at least off your quarter mile.

I probably sound like a retard by saying this, and I know that weber manifold is one-of-a-kind rare, but is it possible to slice 4mm out of the manifold on one side and have it re-welded? Or is it too valuable?

Holy hell that is a sweet beetle

Why not just fill the entire compartment aside from the drivers seat and the engine bay with expanding foam? Then you can float softly along whatever river you come to... Hell, take out the rear diff and extend the drive shaft, weld on a prop and you have an instant on-demand sea-going Subaru! In all honestly, I personally wouldn't bother about a lot of that. If you're going to be underwater for the amount of time it would take to penetrate a lot of those things you're going to have water leaking in somewhere. For the dielectric grease, do you guys have CRC company over there? Like WD-40, 5.56 etc? I'm pretty sure CRC make a decent sized tube of dielectric grease, but I'm not sure. If not, I'd go to any auto-electrician and ask them where they get theirs. They might put you on to something. Check the retrofitting forum for the ECU idea, there's a guy in there (forget his name) who had the idea of putting his ECU in a watertight ammo box. Do a search, I'm sure it'll come up.

I can't help ya on the wheels dude, aside from changing to 5lug, but sweet looking RX

Mythological? (Almost) Every single EA82T in NZ is a Japanese Import, so I take it thats what you mean by JDM? JDM is also my initials. Awesome.

Yeah easy to check and once you had you can rule it out

The same could be said for parts store salespersons. I know its not in the same league, but it seems there are an awful lot of people on here who complain about parts stores not getting the part right. I've worked at a couple of different stores for several years and think this is how it goes. 1. There are a multitude of different cars that have parts listed. At my old store we had over 7,500 different vehicles listed, and that was just the popular ones in the computer. It's incredibly easy for a new person to make a mistake, and seeing as you don't need any qualifications to work at one, people can basically walk in off the street with no knowledge. It's as annoying to an experienced salesman as it is to a customer, but that's the way it goes. Don't expect them to know everything about your exact model of car, its unrealistic and stupid. 2. It takes a long time to start to know about these cars, and the subtle variations and differences in the years, etc. They don't have the car in front of them, they've never and most likely will never work on about 95% of these cars, and a lot is going off learning as you go. Everyone makes mistakes, hell, I'd be doing well if I went two weeks without messing up an order or getting the wrong part, for mechanics and Joe Average. But every mistake you make is something else you learn. 3. Know what info they need off your car, write it down, and bring it in. It take 30 seconds to pop the hood and find out what the chassis code is, what engine, and what year. Etc etc etc. Over here we go off chassis code, engine code, year, make and model. So I'd bring mine in saying "I have a 1989 Subaru Omega, chassis code AN5, EA82 engine." Not, "Give me a front left axle for a EA81, they're all the same." You sound like a muppet. Even if you are right. Which brings me to my next point... 4.. Parts salesmen are people. If you're going to walk into a store thinking you're awesome because you know about such and such a car, or act like you're the most intelligent person in the room and annoy the guy you're dealing with, chances are you're gonna get the wrong part. No-one cares if your Honda has 300hp or you've got an aftermarket ECU, if you're a douche you're gonna get the wrong part, most of the time just to fuck you off. Its not right, its unethical, its not good for business... but the bottom line is that's what happens. It's just good to be nice, not arrogant, and definitely not condescending. They're car enthusiasts too, and if you're good to them, they'll be good to you. If not....I hope you like your car sitting on jack stands waiting for parts. And thats pretty much it. Sorry about the rant, I've been wanting to say that for a while. Hopefully that'll be common sense for a lot of you, and make you get the right parts first time a bit more, and make everyone happier.

Sounds like one of the belts might be a tooth off. Take the covers off and recheck timing.

Is it overheating? Check your inlet manifold gaskets, theres a coolant passage in them thats very prone to leakage and displaying nearly all the same signs as a blown head gasket. Take it off and check, you're gonna have to if it IS a head gasket so get to it!

I believe you can use the front and back trans crossmembers from the EA, but one needs modifying. Then use the EJ middle crossmember for the center. Don't quote me on this though. I'm sure someone like Suberdave or Numbchux could help more.

I've been wondering that for quite a while. So I could theoretically put STI heads & intake on a EJ22T SOHC motor?

This.

That's an unusual one. First off I would check the ECU is plugged in correctly - as unless you have unplugged any fuel hoses it would only be the Fuel Control Unit (which ties into the ECU) that *should* stop it from getting fuel. I think something hasn't been plugged in properly, but check it out and let us know how you get on.

Just about any Subie for free is good congrats. As GD said, the stock Hitachi carbs are notorious for problems when vacuum leaks are introduced to the system, so check all the vacuum lines and make sure none of them are hanging about unplugged.

Sounds like a wheel bearing or CV Joint to me - Take the tire off, and check for play in the wheel with the handbrake OFF.

Check ALL the places a block could occur. Check and see that your radiator is actually flowing water. A head gasket job (done right) should not go straight away like that.

Is that right? Fantastic Even cheaper to swap then!

That's what I'm in the midst of. In New Zealand we had an EJ18 that came out carbed. Just take the EJ22 block, slap the EJ18 heads (with dizzy) on and run the carbed' intake manifold. Its the easy (or lazy ) mans swap, although I'm guessing I'm going to lose about 10HP due to the carb, but we'll see

Okay. Several people have done the EJ205 and EJ20G swap, and had a lot of luck with it. Search out Suberdave - he's pretty done it spot on with his EA82 Wagon, and did a beautiful job on it. PM him, he's got a lot of good info and ideas to point you in the right direction. I'd learn how to construct simple sentences first however - makes EVERYONES life easier. As for the ECU - why do you want to flash and tune it, yet not buy an aftermarket ECU? An aftermarket one would make your wiring hassles a lot easier as they're designed to go into a vehicle from scratch, and have FAR MORE tunability then even a Flashed OEM ECU. Wiring can be hell, but if you have patience, a lot of spare time, and basic electrical and automotive electrical skills I'm sure its possible. Though if it were me and I had the funds to get an aftermarket ECU, it would be a no-brainer - especially with a performance-based engine like that.

Well, the cold idle then. My bad, here I am thinking in carby terms