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The easiest and cheapest way to get a turbo in your car is almost always to get a car that came with one... Some people like adventure though, so why not put a turbo in an NA car

Well, you'd better be worried about suspension and brakes if you put a powerful engine and 6mt in your car!! With stock suspension and all that power you'd kill someone.

I usually use rum, but brandy is good too

To answer the first part of your question. The reason of this engine is POWER! The 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block raises the compression causing the engine to put out more power. Then reground cams and free flowing exhaust do their part to help as well. Most people run a stock computer with it. But like any EFI system, more power can always be obtained by a custom tune.

My volt gauge drops down under about 1000, and fluctuates quite a bit. Sounds similar what's happening to you. I think mine either has a failing reg, or the windings are getting bad. And I have more AC in the system than I should have... so the diodes are dying... I'm keeping a lookout for a maxima alt.

I know someone local who built an ej22t. STi heads, intake, big turbo, etc. 6mt tranny, r180, DCCD, suspension, etc, etc. Put it all into a first generation legacy wagon and did all the work and tuning himself. Ran him something like 5k or so.

The seat in my 96 legacy is pretty comfortable. I drove it 7 hour straight once without stopping... It's in really good shape, so not blown out or anything. Just go walk around a junk yard and sit in some subaru seats and see what you like best!! haha. I also have a set of 2000 OBS seats I welded in my GL, and those are pretty good! The old blown out GL seats gave me pretty bad back pain within an hour of driving. In one day I drove that 100 miles to a rally, 250 miles in the rally, and 100 miles back home again. No back pain whatsoever.

Were the lights only on when it was idling really low? The alt won't put out much when it's not running at least 700 RPMs. Have you ever almost stalled the engine, or crawling really slow at low RPMs? In my car all the lights come on, and the voltage gauge drops under about 400 RPMs just because the alt isn't spinning fast enough to really work.

Thing is, just about everything has been done to a subaru on here. It takes a crapload of ingenuity to create something nobody has done before on here. But then I'll go and post my car on my local subaru forum and nobody has ever seen anything like it before. Don't even know that subaru made a 4x4 with lo range, etc. I took it on a rally drive with some of the local club members and nobody knew what to think about the thing. But then I go and post it on here, and it isn't anything special.. Just a sedan lifted 2" with pugs and 27" wheels. There's some pretty crazy cool stuff people have built on here, just search around.

Stole my car and painted it blue!! haha. It looks awesome!! I love the look of the sedan as a wheeler.

I'm on here to get away from family and guests haha.

They couldn't just weld down the crack and fix it!? Lame.

The newer EJs actually recommend 5w-30, not sure I'd run it in an older high mileage EJ though. And especially not an EA

My friends would laugh at me for letting my car warm up for 10 mins in the summer...

It needs 100% less hood and roof

I've seen some scary "welding" before... but wow. That wins. I had a friend take his car to me because failed inspection because he welded his exhaust pipe and it looked sorta like that...

Now that it's wicked cold out this is how I warm up my GL. Go start it, come back in and make a cup of tea. Then go out and drive it.

Most places you won't pass inspection with bondo'd rockers. If I had the car, I'd just drive it. Take it for what it is. If you want a manual, swap it, if you want 4wd, swap it. As a 4wd 5speed it would probably be worth more than an automatic anyway. These old autos kinda suck.

In my Legacy I use this rationale. In the summer I start my car, wait 30 seconds to let everything get flowing and drive off. Easy, of course until it's warmed up. So in the summer after idling for 30 seconds my scangauge tells me the engine is somewhere around 80 degrees. So in the winter I warm it up till it's at 80 degrees and drive away... It takes a surprisingly short amount of time to get up to that temp. 30* out it takes maybe a minute. at 0* out it takes about 3 or 4, these little engines warm up pretty quick.

Awesome pictures!!! I soooo wish I could come out with my lifted suby and play too!

I've come up to my car with the mirror hanging by wires before. Pissed me off something wicked!!

I was talking to a firefighter last week about car fires actually. He said now all the trucks where he works are equipped with this axe thing with a hose attached to it. They pound it into the hood and it just injects water right onto the engine and bay.

The main reason I can see it being illegal is engine fire. If your engine catches fire under the hood, the fire will be somewhat contained, without a hood it'll be a lot more violent a fire because it'll get all the air it wants.

I ratchet strapped a hood to the roof of my GL a little while ago. Got it nice and tight and it didn't go anywhere. I've transported a small boat on the roof of my car for a 600 mile drive, and some other weird things on the roofs of my cars for long distances with strange looks aplenty and nary a issue.

I've had calipers rust inside and cause them not to retract... It was a back brake on my Legacy, but a caliper is a caliper. All I did was pump it all the way out, disconnect the brake line, and squeeze the piston back in again. This obviously squirted all the brake fluid out, and an ALARMING amount of rust!! The rust wouldn't go out the bleeder screw, but holy hell did it come out of the piston. Very very nasty. I did this a few times until it was clear, put it back together, bled it. And I've never had an issue with that since. The moral of that to me at least, was that I needed to take better care of my braking system so such things don't happen again.