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I don't mind the GL one... But you can't beat free!

You'll need a steering wheel puller to get the ea82 wheel off. It's stuck on there something wicked!! I have this in my car, still looking for the button... But it's OE to some subaru or other! (I really have no idea what suby though, I got it for free!!)

Wikipedia has a lot of curb weights listed. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Leone

As long as you don't have to little valve clearance on the exhaust valves it should be fine.

Did they still have 3.7 diffs though?

Either it'll come off or something will break and since he's working on the right side, wouldn't he want to go forwards?

a 97 2.2 is going to have a solid valvetrain, no HLAs. So it should be adjusted at 105k? Whatever it is, somewhere around there.

It's the AWD ones (like from the RX) with locking center diff and 3.7 front/rear that has the 1.2 lo range. The FWD/4WD ea82 dual ranges have the 3.9 diffs and 1.59:1 lo range.

Stuff in the rust belt gets crazy stuck. I had a diff drain plug put up a fierce fight a few weeks ago.

Craftsman ratchets take a surprising amount of abuse... I had a wicked stuck axle nut. It was an ea though, but same procedure would work. I used my 2' breaker bar extended to 4' with a pipe. I suspended my 200lbs anvil from the end of the pipe and jumped on it a few times. Cracked loose eventually!

To fix the temp issue, why not just put a resistor of the correct value between the temp signal wire and ground.

Well it will already have a cat in the Y pipe. But in PA they tend to be pretty strict about it.

Does it happen in every gear, or just one specific gear?

That's very common. Most cars are made the year before they're model year. My 96 legacy was made oct 95. My 89 GL was made jul 88.

Parked my legacy because it has to many issues to be safe anymore Hopefully when I get some money I can fix it up.

Nice! +1 on the black. It looks awesome.

Dunno if you have a legacy or a loyale. But I swapped my GL to manual belts, it wasn't to hard. In the GL at least, the manual belts use the same mounting holes as the auto belts. Thet way they don't have to make a separate body for different seatbelt types... I have auto belts that work awesome and the computer from a loyale if you want to rebuild yours...

I think everyone who wheels a subaru has dreamed of a diesel under the hood... It would be way cool if you pulled this off!

If you ask, he'll say no. If you just do it... it might go un-noticed. Although a shiny section in rusty exhaust is a little hard to miss. There's a chance they have a book/catalog that shows how the exhaust system should look and if you're missing a part it fails.

You live in PA, the land of awesome junk yards. Whenever I'm in PA I haul a load of car parts back with me because I can always find them cheap and in nice condition down there

Yep, the DOOR LOCK button goes off when all the doors are locked. Seatbelt light is probably because that seatbelt is broken. Before you call it dead, check the connections and relays. There's a bunch of relays and connectors for the auto seat belts on that side under the seat. So I'd start there. If the driver's side works, it probably isn't the computer.... I have a set of auto seatbelts, so if you can't find one PM me. I'm in Maine, so it might be expensive to send. I'd go to a JY for the trim stuff, they're almost all blue. So you're in luck there. Also, do you have emissions testing where you are? I'd be tempted to just weld in a bit of pipe... But I'm cheap like that

That sounds really awesome... Not that I want a leak in my car.... but soap bubbles coming out of my vents?? Thanks for all the advice guys!! Tomorrow afternoon when I get off work I'll have at it and see what I find!!

OMG wow! That's beautiful!! Really, really nice work there. I love it.

Contacts are the first thing I'd do because they're easy. Also clean all the connections to the starter. Ground and positive on the battery, the positive lead on the starter, and the grounds to the engine, and the power to the solenoid. Bad connection in any of those could cause starting issues. Another problem that I've seen crop up here, and I've had on my GL is the ignition switch. If the contacts in the switch itself are wearing out it can cause a low voltage to the solenoid, enough for it to click, but not enough for it to connect the circuit to start the engine. I just put in a different ignition switch I had laying around. The other option is to add a relay to give power right from the battery to the solenoid.