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I've had to adjust the control rods for both rears doors in my GL. They stopped locking/unlocking right and they wouldn't open from the inside. A simple adjustment fixed both those issues.

Oh sorry, the front bushing usually doesn't cause as many issues as the back bushing. If it's in good shape you're probably fine putting it back together as is. And as always when installing bushings, don't torque them down when the suspension is in full droop. Jack the control arm up to ride height or drive it up on ramps then tighten the bolts down the rest of the way.

You can just replace that whole assembly. Careful putting it back on, that mount looks symmetrical but it isn't.

I'd probably do both sides. If one went bad the other probably isn't too far behind. You can do it without removing the control arm. Remove the 19mm nut first, it's a wicked bugger on there super tight, then remove the bolts that hold the bracket. In your case, I'd pull one out and take a good look at it, make sure the threads aren't messed up or anything. You have something weird going on with that bracket. EDIT: As I was closing my laptop I thought do add you should clean the threads at the end of the control arm really well. Where that big nut is. It's a lot easier to remove a nut when the threads aren't all grungy. You also have a lot better chance at not stripping it out.

Can you find a pipe to put over the wrench for more leverage? Start jumping up and down on it? You might have to get a breaker bar. What warnings worry you?

The bushing looks bad, but what concerns me more is the fact that it's all grimy except right around the bolt heads. It looks like the bolts are loose letting the bushing slide back and forth. That would undoubtedly cause a clunking and should be fixed immediately. At least tighten the bolts up! Replacing that bushing isn't really very hard, just kind of annoying. The second picture is blurry and I can't see what's going on, but it looks like there's a section of frame rail that's been sanded down to bare metal through the paint and primer... What's up with that?

Not sure why the headlights don't work, have you checked fuses and the relays? As to the question about why you have voltage at the connector, subaru headlights switch the negative wire. When the lights are on, there's a constant 12v to the common terminal, then the terminal to the bulb segment, high or low, is grounded depending on which position the selector switch is in. Because the ground is lifted to the low beam bulb segment when the high beam is on you may be able to measure voltage across that terminal to ground. When testing negative switched lights you have to sorta flip the logic around in your head on how to test things.

Yea, you're right. It's every 180 degrees, not ever 90 degrees! Oops, I've been working on V8s too much At least I didn't say 144*, because I've been messing with those strange beasts lately, too...

I've had good luck by just googling for PDF downloads of the FSM. I have a few I've found that way, sorry I don't have any links for them. Also check in the ultimate subaru repair manual (you'll see it called the USRM) section of this forum, there are some great links to factory repair resources in there.

There's just one arrow on each cam pulley, they point straight up when cylinder 1 is at TDC of the compression stroke. There are no marks for the rest of the cylinders at TDC of their compression stroke. However, once you have #1 at TDC of compression, every 90 degrees of crank rotation the next cylinder in the firing order will be at TDC. Here's the cam mark. Note, the hash mark is for installing the timing belt and denotes all the pistons being in the middle of their stroke.

Is it crunching into 3rd gear? Learn to double clutch and you'll never have to worry about tired synchos again. If you haven't already done it, change the gear oil. You may be surprised at the difference fresh gear oil makes.

It's a wild guessing game unless you tell us what the CEL is... There's a red LED on the ECU under the dash that flashes out the code when the key is on.

I have seen far too many that take serious abuse to get out. I used to work in a shop in Maine, so I saw lots of miserable rusted stuff. Either way, balljoints usually don't survive the abuse of being removed with a BFH. I've done that before only to have the balljoint fail a week later, they're not designed to take impact like that.

Please don't write in all caps, it's really annoying to read. I suggest you clean the engine really well, then start it up and see exactly where the oil is leaking from. With oil everywhere, it's impossible to tell where it's leaking. It may look like it's leaking from everywhere, but it's probably just one spot. It's possible you lost a main seal or a cam seal, but it's really hard to know if everything is plastered in oil.

What exactly do you mean by "disengage the steering gearbox" and that you've "my tie rod at the wheel is disengaged"???? You have to undo the jamb nut on the threaded portion of the tie rod then unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod. Count the exact number of turns it came off so you can put it back on exactly the same. Otherwise you'll have a bad alignment. I would not suggest trying to remove and use an old boot, the replacement is likely old and dry rotted as well, it will probably tear when trying to remove it.

Wrong, it's not a circlip on the trans side. If it's an automatic the stub into the trans is a circlip, but you need that stub for the new axle, so you have to punch the roll pin either way. You need a 3/16" punch. The axle nut is indeed 32mm. You're in newengland so things are crusty, you're not gonna get the balljoint apart without ruining it, unless it's been replaced recently. I usually mark the alignment of the camber bolt and pull the two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle. This gives ample room to remove the inner spline, then slide the axle out of the hub. Tips: make sure to break the axle nut free with the tire on the ground, pop the center cap to do it. Make sure the axle is free in the hub splines before removing the strut bolts, it's a real pain to get the axle loose if it's frozen up when the knuckle is flopping around. Over the summer I had to do one in my Forester in an auto parts store parking lot on a road trip (was shaking the car so bad I thought it was gonna self-destruct...) took about 25 minutes, not a hard job.

If you haven't done the plug wires somewhat recently, you might want to just buy new ones now. There's a good chance the metal contact things will rip out and stay on the spark plugs. It's always really annoying when that happens and you didn't just buy new plug wires. The shop I used to work at would probably charge around $60 or $70 for the job, plus whatever it cost for new wires if need be, another $35 or so.

You also don't have to deal with the extreme cold. I was annoyed at the high idle on mine and tried messing with the IACV. The conclusion was if it's anywhere near freezing it'll just stall if it doesn't idle at least 1000 rpm, 1500 if it's like 10 or below. They're little engines that need to rev high to warm up.

Eh, 1500rpm or so really isn't that bad when it's around freezing or below. Mine would idle at like 1600 for a minute then drop down some below freezing.

I've done that before with a wrench or something, felt really stupid. I did the same thing to my laptop screen last year, closed it with crap on the keyboard At least replacing that is cheaper and easier than a windshield...

In the winter I like to just reach in my car, hit the key and go back inside for 5 minutes. It's totally a lazy thing, but I understand the point here...

Since I live in the rust belt, popping the balljoints is usually a destructive task necessitating the replacement of the balljoint.... I always just remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle. Mark the cam bolt with a sharpie so you get the alignment back where it was. It's a much easier method.

Eh, my GL didn't have a clutch safety switch and I never bothered pushing the clutch to start it (I know more wear on the starter blah blah), and I never once tried to start it in gear.... The bigger safety concern is loaning the car to someone who may turn the key in gear and cause damage to your car or other property. HOWEVER, mikaleda said he wanted a momentary pushbutton or returning toggle switch. If you have to push an extra button it'll remind you not to start it in gear. I say go for it, it's an easy mod with functional use.

The switch you're interested is the one that gets actuated at full clutch travel. The other switch disengages cruise control if you push the clutch a tiny amount, the other switch you want will only let the engine start if the clutch is all the way down. If you poke your head under the dash, you can see which is which. There should be two wires to that switch, the wires either get connected or disconnected when the clutch is pushed all the way in, I'm not sure which. Take a multi-meter on the ohm setting and find out. If the switch makes contact when you push the clutch, wire in a switch in parallel, when you turn the switch it'll make the car "think" the pedal is down. If the switch breaks contact when you push the clutch, wire a switch in series with one of the wires, this will break the contact when you push the pedal, letting it start. I don't have a subaru at my disposal at the moment or I'd go out and check really quick, it shouldn't be a big deal.

Disconnect the fuel hoses and the clamp that holds the filter on. Then put a new filter in it's place, connect the fuel hoses, connect the clamp. Turn the key to accessory for about 5 seconds, then turn it off. Repeat a few times to fill it with fuel and you're done.