Ricearu

drove 200 miles to get a trans for my brother in law's WRX, gonna split it tomorrow and get ready to swap some parts out...:-\ bought a trans with no 2nd gear for $260 to use the parts for his which blew the front diff to hell and back I am going to use the wasted parts and a spare EA82 trans to try to mock ej-swap-frankentranny.

if you can jump from battery to the small "s" terminal on the starter, you have no problem with the starter itself. to remove it is useless. you can... a. wire up the relay like the other guy said or b. wire up a push to start button on the dash somewhere, just wire it from accessory on ignition switch, to the side of the clutch switch which recieves the "start" signal and carries on to the starter itself. that way you must have the key "on", and push in the clutch and push the start button for it to crank.

i complained about a 5 inch long rust through on the little narrow place between the rear wheel and rear door on my wagon. sheesh no complaints now.

too bad you couldn't have swiped those headlights and taillights... and other coupe specific stuffs before it went.

GLAD I LIVE IN TEXAS LOL JEEZUS RUSTCAKES!!! I feel sorry for mechanics in the rustbelt.

he took it to his friend's shop and did a block test on it. no hc's in coolant.

those tires have so much meat, you will handle worse than expected because of sidewall roll. I would run 195/40. it will tuck better too. i used to auto-x my 93 integra. and I liked the "feel" of the narrower tires, they tended to float with 235's up front, when my logic was" more tire more traction" although true, it felt sloppy. I like to run just a hair narrow tire on my performance/tuner wheels.

yes, wd40 on the clutch is a bad idea... how does the clutch pedal feel, super weak, only stiff near the floor? hard as crap? barely any resistance? let me know...

that didn't happen to be a 2wd clutch into a 4wd car? or vice versa? I don't know the difference because all mine have been 4wd, but I KNOW the cluches are different somehow

your clutch is a: misadjusted and not disengaging b: something is wrong inside adjust the clutch (tighten the cable) first and see how it goes from there

the crankcase can accumulate some moisture while sitting. you should change it if it sits for 2 or 3 months. if you drive it weekly, it should be ok

don't take them off, just rub some mother's mag polish on them ON car, UNLESS they are clear coated, if they are cleared, then just wet-sand the imperfections out and re-clear it.

let it cool down, then clean off the head with brake parts cleaner, then run a bead of copper hi-temp rtv down that seam. give that sucker a small swipe to make a seal. that should help to get you home.

maybe THATS why we had to beat the axle in when we did motor/trans swaps in all those civics, integras, and crxs.

both my soobs, my ford f-150 w/ 4.9l I6 gets wix filters, hell my lawnmower gets a wix. it takes a chevy v-6 filter lol

no problem!

older chevy 6 lug wheels work, up to 1972 lol. I tried this with my 68 chevy some years ago, I ended up running Toyota Six Lugs!

:banana:polish the dogcrap out of them:banana: P.S. Regular lug nuts no workey, your wheels will fall off. Ive seen it happen on a friend's 74 corolla that he put "Z" snowflakes on.

could be cam tower to head seals, the pass. side one hovers right above the cat. My last motor leaked right there...

call around. try to go middle of the road, avoid "lube and transmission" shops, and avoid superchains. I have always used a independent shop here in town and have never been let down. ED's Transmission. grand prairie, tx. charged me $1,540 to rework a 03 celica gts auto, new pump, torque converter, and all frictions and steels(includes R&R and parts). Superchains lose the customer service aspect and the "lube, tune, brakes, and oh yeah transmissions" shops are generally shady. do your research, base your decision on price, BBB, and google (you will find any complaints there likely)

Nice Build. way to keep one on the road, and the engine bay shot makes me happy in my pants :lol: edit: while you are at it, do your research on oil filters and get that POS FRAM filter off your brand new motor!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a pretty nice set of 4 of those in my shed!

I love telling my car when to shift. I am fixing my friend's 1987 Supercharged MR2 with a slush box. That thing has a nanny shifter from hell. Punch it and it shifts at 6k. Even if you drag the shifter down to "1". The 4agze red-lines at 7250... bum...

yes you can use a helicoil to repair that, but If I were you, I would NOT put THAT idler back in. I would get the kit and install new ones into the repaired hole and others.

really, the delayed forward engagement is a sticking spool valve, actuator (solenoid) or accumulator in the transmission valve body. The PERMANENT solution is to have the valve body (not the whole transmission) remanufactured. the valve body is completely accessible from the pan and does not require the transmission be removed, any reputable transmission shop should be able to check the line pressures on a trans while it is doing the problem, properly diagnose it, and fix it for a whole helluva lot cheaper than a full rebuilt trans. Trans-x is only "conditioning" the lip seals on whatever part is sticking and is NOT a permanent fix