brysawn

I searched and found the three threads on this, but I'd like some more information. I also searched the FAQ. I'm wondering if this is something can be done at home, or is it better to have done by a machinist? If you do it; how? Do you take an old hub, and drill accordingly? With 4runner wheels do you have to drill two extra holes, or all four? I thought I read that the lug hole is a 9/16", and also that it is a 60 degree bevel. How do I make this? And is the center bore the correct size, or do I have to alter that also? And lastly, does anyone have any pictures of their drilled yota wheels? All the pictures in older threads are dead.

Sent you a pm with a few questions.

You'd wheel any subaru

This has now been covered multiple times. I created the same thread with an easily found title a couple of days ago. Here it is: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111056 and why would you post in an almost 5 year old thread?

Thanks for the pictures. I've pm'd some local guys for a lift kit.

I have read through the FAQ, but there are no pictures. Which is my reason for creating this thread. As quoted from the FAQ's: "Oh , whats that?You don't want to get the wrong size?Well then I suggest you ask people what tires they have on there rig." Which is exactly what I'm doing. So thanks for the pictures guys, I'd like to see some more.

I'd like to see some pictures of big tire set-ups with no lift. With or without cut fenders. Also, please list wheel model, and tire size/company/model

It's ugly

I'm sure these are still good with 180k+ miles, right? I can probably get one from pull-a-part for like $50. But I'm thinking about spending the extra $300 and getting a car too

Awesome. I'm searching for one now. What's a reasonable price?

That's cool and good to know. But wouldn't doing this cause an odd idle? and wouldn't that make it fail?

I'd like to know more about this. What does this option fix? Or in better words, what tests does it make it pass? and how?

I'm not sure if this was said or not. But on my loyale I also had a surging idle, it would go really high, then really low, and I would also hear that click noise. It was due to a vacuum leak from a bad intake manifold gasket, also this caused a injector and crankcase code. The gaskets were replaced, and the codes were cleared and I have yet to have them back (*knocks on wood*) and now it idles perfect.

Actually, for other cars (I'm not sure about subaru) there is vmaxx, JOM, and raceland. They are all under 500 shipped brand new. I have KW V2's on another car and absolutely love them. But with coils, you defiantly get what what you pay for

Edited now, to clarify.

That's what I was talking about...

Ksport and Megan suspension aren't really "budget" coils, they are around 1k.

Looks good, but IMO it needs to be lower in the rear (is that where you were having the coil issues?). Other than that, the fitment looks pretty good. Any plans for other wheels?

I'm looking to swap my push button 4wd 5speed to a D/R 5speed into my EA82 loyale (non turbo). I've read up and it doesn't seem too difficult. Is it as simple as just swapping it in, and adding a hole for the range selector? Do the D/R's have different gearing?

I was going to say. These guys are awesome. They have done many exhaust's on my own, and my family's cars and we have been going here for 15+ years. Including making a crazy straight-pipe stinger/victory exhaust on my ea82, and then later adding a muffler. Also made a amazing dual exhaust system on my dad's 64 mustang - from scratch. Very reasonable prices too. These guys are great, I highly recommend them.

By high RPM's I meant around 3k (or less) around 65mph. My timing is pretty spot on. Or so I thought...

Are those difficult to replace? Thanks for the replies

I'm not sure about the strut question. But for the swap, although I have not done it. It is a pretty straight forward swap, the most difficult part being the wiring. There is a full DIY thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676 and places like http://www.sjrlift.com make conversion pieces

My car is an EA82 loyale with 180k and has original headgaskets, but brand new timing belt, water pump, distributor, rotor, cooling system, etc... My tick has begun, but sometimes it will just be at start-up and when I get to running temp, it goes away. Other times it doesn't, but its a very light tick (can't even hear it over the exhaust). What are my options? I know the Oil pump, and seafom. But how do I use the seafom? I thought I read that this stuff is bad if used incorrectly. What weight oil have you guys had success with? I'm currently using a 10-40 Anyone use a full synthetic? Also, I've read that motors will last in excess of 50k when the tick really starts going. But with my mild tick is it going to be bad to be at higher rpm's for extended periods of time? I have to drive from Salem, OR to Bothell, WA tomorrow, and back in 10 days. Is this going to be harmful? I'm always afraid of something happening when being at 3k rpms for 5 hours. With this, is there any other I'm prone to? I know this is a lot, but the help would be greatly appreciated.

Why is any car rare? Because they produced a low number of them.