Nug

1,2, and 21 should have switched 12 volts. From the ignition switch. You might not want them directly off the switch, but through relays. You should include fuses. IIRC, "backup power supply" was simply another switched 12v wire from the ignition switch. There is one wire that goes to the battery for ecu power 24/7, but I don't think it was the "backup power supply" wire. Basically, there are 2 or three wires that power the ecu, and 1 small diameter yellow wire that connected directly to the battery. I'm also using a '91 legacy engine. I don't know how much they changed.

Hopefully it didn't corrode in it's bore. I had to drill mine out.

Sounds like you overheated it (you didn't say). A compression loss like a blown head gasket will make it reeeal hard to start, and coolant getting on the spark plugs helps none either.

Back in the 60's, pistons weighed a ton and had giant piston skirts. Now the skirts are incredibly short, and pistons are very light. And if they are forged (no idea), they have to be given more clearance because they expand more than a cast piston.

Squeakjuice???

God I love that! The rod bearings in my S-10 aren't magically fixing themselves, though. So I bought a Tacoma.

One of you Andrews owes me a coil for a Legacy, or $20.00.

Thanks a lot. I sprayed soda from my nose into the keyboard.

Rope towing is legal where you are at? Last time I tried that stunt, I got three tickets.

Having the idle speed set too high tends to aggravate it, also.

Try a thermostat change/coolant flush if you are overheating. Make sure your radiator isn't loaded with deposits. Detonation may be solved simply by running a higher octane fuel. Alcohol in the fuel aka HEET will lower all numbers dramatically, if enough is used. Do what rweddy suggests.

The difference between the two is that the 2.2 doesn't suck.

Exccccellent...

Oh, they test NOx alright. NOx is a result of high combustion temps. Do you know what the limits are? Do you know how far you were out? Premium gas *MAY* lower NOx numbers, it also *may* raise the others. No EGR on the '93. Hmm. You might try a combustion chamber cleaner. Carbon may have built up, artificially raising the compression ratio, and causing detonation.

www.kennedyeng.com Subeman90-Can you post a pic of the 3.8 adapter?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=541467 Similar problem on WRX.

Yeah, replace the plug and wire first, making sure that there is definately spark.

ttt cuz i'm lazy.

Let's say you plan on changing the fluid fairly regularly. And you don't enter endurance races. Conventional, name brand ATF is probably fine. If you change your ATF at least semi-frequently, you are doing it more often than the rest of America, rest assured. If you are constantly stressing the tranny, or go for looong periods between fluid changes, I'd go with the synthetic. It's friken' expensive, though. Regular fluid changes couples with a resonably-sized transmission cooler ought to extend your transmission life for thousands of miles.

Yeah, right. My dad wants me to take the pushbutton 4wd slushbox out of his '84 Gl and put in either a 4 or 5speed dual range. It's a ea81 car, but you all knew that already. I hate to do this, as it's been rehashed about a million times, but what do I need to do, what parts to get, are there issues like body clearance, which flywheel, blah blah blah. Also, he is probably more interested in higher quality parts. I don't want to say that overall cost isn't an issue, but he'd rather spend more on a better part than have something cheap blow up on him. So if someone has had really good luck with a brand of something (like which clutch kit), please chime in. This all started when I mentioned I'd like to buy his car so I could jack it up and drop a manual tranny in it and cruise it around like that. His selective hearing picked up part of it, it seems.

Manual or automatic?

Why you need pushrods?

Kennedy. The flywheel used is a highly modified Vw piece. The center has been cut out, and a very thick piece has been tig welded in. As far as the adapter plate is concerned, I think it would be rather difficlult to have a flat piece line up correctly. I mean, it's doable, but you would have some difficulty getting the input shaft of the transmission exactly in line with the crankshaft. The VW engine and transmission are flanged together, basically, and the Kennedy adapter replicates that. Sooooo, you have a 3.8 adapter plate, huh? Does it work well? I seem to have this unlimited supply of 3.8's sitting right in front of me, and a spare VW sitting in the backyard. Hmmmm...

As long as you are breaking stuff, at least go all the way!

TTT Anyone else have input?