Nug

wrong pic

another view

What this is. ECU or TCU? 1990 legacy.

It's me with the disty on ebay. Yeah, I don't remember the year. It has 1 port for the vacuum canister. Hope this helps.

Forced induction. Sort of artificially raising the compression ratio.

If "sandpaperdly" can be a word, then "half-assdly" can too. And "McJob" for that matter.

As far as the o-ringing is concerned, It's not an actual o-ring. The deck has a groove cut around the circumference of the cylinder, and a stainless steel wire ring is put in there. So when you torque the head down, the ring is pressed into both the block and h/g. Kind of eliminates blown head gaskets altogether. Don't know if this is SOP for Cu H/G's, but I know it can be done with conventional (or whatever "normal") h/g's. Good for big lungfuls of N2O.

You can get a rebuild kit from turbo city for about a buck twenty-five. You won't have a way to balance it, but it will still work. Need a bucket of carb cleaner and some ridiculously small snap-ring pliers. And some torx bits (small ones) to take apart/reassemble it. Kit comes with directions. How worn out? Compressor wheel hitting housing? Might need a compressor also. Price unknown. Eric

Ah, the RTV game. As far as which gasket sauce is best, the "ultra" types of whichever color you like best seem to work wonders, but for the more heretical, Hondabond seems to work VERY well. Also in the realm of less soupy silicone sauce is an RTV avalible through Cummins (the diesel engine manufacturer) that is excellent, and if it can keep an insanely high boosted diesel running wide open from leaking, then it gets a gold star in my book. This post was probably absolutely unnecessary, but i felt like typing.

Just take a few minutes and confirm that the impeller is still attached to the water pump's shaft. That has caused some of the most infuriating overheat problems i've ever seen.

It will run like rump roast. You have to think about the metal particles from the blown up turbo bearings that will find their way into your oil.

The honda boys use a one way check valve from a fish tank aeriator. When there is a positive pressure at the maf, it blocks the pressure and the maf stays stady-state. You know what I'm talking about. I just woke up, and I can't think straight.

Generally, you put a deposit down, and when you return it, you get it back. Great for things that you don't use real often, like GM power steering pulley remover/installer.

Like when? Is an ugly S-10 invited?

I have a good longblock (or two) in my friend's basement for sale, If you feel like reusing your heads and stuff.

Get a new reciever/dryer. Don't even toy with the idea of slapping on a used one. Avoid any system that died of the black death. And avoid hoses that look oily or have funk around where the rubber meets the crimp. And dirty compressors on a relatively clean engine. They are probably leakers.

Exactly. When i disconnected the ignitor, though, I got a voltage pulsation from the computer, which the FSM says is the signal for the coil to fire. So I am looking for an ignitor.

It's good for vacuum hose, and covering other hoses, and that's about it.

I'm getting another ECU and ignitor to just 'see' what happens.

If you arre banging into gear, and it shifts late, it sounds like the modulator valve is making the line pressure go too high. Are the subaru ones adjustable? Some domestic ones are.

I have double 0 battery cables on it, and the battery is brand new. EVERYTHING is brand new. Except the engine and sensors. I might have a few problems, but this afternoon I came to the conclusion there is no spark because of the ignitor.

After looking some more, I found those same pages in my fsm. But thank you and everyone else for your help.

Texan, If that was the case, it isn't anymore. I disassembled the entire harness and streamlined it to include only things to make the engine run.

The signal to the ignition system is screwed up, too. There is five volts with ignition on, and nothing while cranking.

Ok, this is what I've got. I definately have crank and cam sensor inputs going into the computer, verified with voltmeter. I also managed to test the ignition coil wrong, but finally got that right and it's fine. The ignitor circuit is done correctly, and is grounded properly. The fuel pump definately is not running while cranking. It comes on with the key momentarily. Test modes on the computer work, it cycles the fuel pump, and it tries to spit out codes, which I can't read for the lack of a CEL. Checking for ignition output at the computer yeilded some odd results. With the ignitor plugged in, the FSM says to backprobe it and look for voltage pulsations which is the computer telling the ignition coil to fire. With the ignition on, I get around 5 volts. Cranking, it drops to zero. Is this the fault of the ignitor, or ecu? I didn't think to check it with the ignitor unplugged to try to isolate it, cuz the FSM never mentioned that. It said after that check, if abnormal results are found, to replace the ignitor. But that still doesn't explain the fuel pump not coming on while cranking, unless the computer is looking for the correct ignition signal. I don't know. Anyone got a used ecu sitting around they wanna sell?