eulogious

Wow, gotta love the all the hate for the ea82t sometimes I am not going to get into what you should do with the motor of the car, that seems to be well covered here be some folks already. I will throw one more link in here that may be helpful, and is a little more in depth to what northwet has said. He started the thread, but lots of people chime in and talk about the ea82 in general. It's a good read and gives lots of background: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115825 Took a little bit of digging, but I found it. Thought it might be helpful and give you some good background on why people have said what they have about the ea82t. I will reply in your other thread regarding leaving... Good luck with what ever you do man! Have fun with the ea82t, it's a fun motor while it last

Drivers door does not actually have a motor, it's just a switch. That's what controls all the locks. Lock the drivers for they all lock, unlock the drivers, they all unlock. Unlock an other door and it just locks/unlocks itself. I put a motor in my drivers door and untapped switches on the door to luck and unlock. So I converted it. Kinda a pain though. Glad you fixed it!

Do keep in mind that there are some 3AT's out there, and they are NOT electronic, so you can't do that mod. In fact most of the autos in the EA series cars were the 3AT's. I believe the 4EAT came out in 1987.5 and was only offered like I said until 1990. So very few of the EA series cars have the 4EAT in them, and usually only the turbos and the "upper" end models. Just a little FYI

Are you referring to me? Last time I looked I wasn't GD Ya, 1990 was the last year the EA82's got the 4EAT. It's the same trans as the legacy, so Subaru wanted people to spend more money on the "better" car and trans combo, and then cheapied out the EA82 to make them less appealing :-\ I have a thread around where I did it and I showed what wires to do what to, and all that jazz. The wire colors are a little off, and the TCU is a PAIN to get to. Just look up my thread where I did it for all the info...

As long as you have a 4EAT, then it is the same. I did the mod, then I modded a Legacy TCU to run in my loyale. Worked just fine after modding the firmware for the different diff ratios. So there is no working differences between the two transmissions, at least according to the TCU. There are a few differences between the EA series 4EAT, and the EJ series 4EAT just minor changes, mainly for reliability and what not. Like adding a few more clutch disks here and there, that sort of thing. Nothing major. But they can swap back and forth by just swapping the bell housing and keeping the diff's matching. If you need info on the diff lock mod, there are several thread that detail it around the net, but it sounds like you have that under control. Hope that helps!

I have gotten the privilege to ride in Jacob brat, and even though he was driving nice so he could actually get some traction, you can tell that the thing has balls! The high compression with the low torque range is a really sweet combo. If you are serious about getting more power, the cams and an ecu tune will get you probably the most power for the least amount of money and work. Tuning the ECU can be expensive though...

No he didn't have the engine in the car, it was on a table, hehe. So I could see it being a pain, but it would be worth pulling the motor for though it I think with all the work you've done so far, what's an engine pull at this point?

same thing happened to me, well not the gas part Mine quit working 75 miles from home with no code, and then fixed itself. Then a few days later started back up and this time threw a code. Injector 4 I believe as well This seems like it's the "1st gen injector failure" year. You are the third, if not fourth person to have injector issues in the last 3 months Just swap that bad boy out and you should be good to go!

No need to remove the heads to take out the cams, just the valve covers I believe. I think that's all ski did when he put in the torque grind cams in scotts EJ swap rig... So nothing major needed to be done I could be wrong though, but that's why I was thinking about it, it seemed pretty simple and straight forward and the heads stayed on...

My bad I thought you had the 2.5 Ya you could see some improvement with an ECU tuning, but if you are going to do that, throw in some torque grind delta cams, then tune it. That will show big gains in torque, which in turn leads to more passing power. That's what I would do... I might do the torque cams anyways, I hear they are fantastic!

I was going to recommend paddle shifters since it gives you complete control of the trans before and after passing, but figured it would have fallen on deaf ears The power mode mod is sweet. Don't know if it actually makes the car faster, or just seem faster though Either way grounding a pin on the TCU and installing a switch is a super easy mod to make the car feel more "sporty". As to the "autotragic" comments, I LOVE my auto and probably won't go back to a stick for DD use EVER. Auto's are awesome for driving around town. Add in the paddle shifters and you can drive it like a manual till the day the motor quits. But yet my left foot never leaves the floor. I don't get as tired in traffic, and I am more relaxed when I get to my destination. The 4EAT is a STOUT transmission, and if it does not last its because it WAS NOT taken care of properly. My last one had 215,xxx and it was still going strong before I totaled the car... There is always the franken motor option as well since you are getting up there in mileage and have a 2.5 block to start off with That will add some passing power for sure! All without adding any boost hehe. Or a 50 wet shot of NOS works just as well. How about some methanol injection? Or how about a flux capacitor hehe, but I digress. Have you done the power mode mod yet tom? Let us know what you think of it after having it for a little while...

Looks good man! I like the spoilers I have always wanted an imp like yours, I just think they are sweet cars. But my arse is to broke to be able to afford one, so I just stick with the leggys Wheels paint black correctly and on the right car look sick. Black wheels don't fit every car, but when they do fit, it looks fantastic. I have a feeling Zap's will probably look fantastic when he's done with it

The computer would be the last thing I would suspect. What was the condition of the injector that you replaced the original failing one with? Was it used? It just could have been bad as well. Hard to tell. Have you ohmed out the injector to see what it says? I would just try swapping out the injector again with a known good used one or a new one and see if that does anything. I would blame an old, used injector before a known working computer/wiring harness. I ran into the same issues with my 1990 legacy a few weeks back, and I just swapped out the injectors, well the hole fuel rail actually, and haven't had a problem since. Hopefully your spare injector is just bad and it's nothing serious

Interesting, and good to know! Thanks for looking that info up! And to just clarify my offer, I was only looking for about $100 for all four of the shocks ($25/ea)... So if you just need something to go in in a pinch, LMK (not to beat a dead horse, just wanted to clarify that I was not looking at new outback struts, but old/used ones , so no worries if you are not interested...) You should post up some pics of your ride once you get the Forester struts on it It should look pretty good! I really like the look of a gen 1 lifted leggy

No worries, good luck with whatever you do! I will have them just kicking around if you are ever in need!

If you don't mind waiting, I am going to be swapping in some outback struts and installing a 3" SJR lift on my 1990 Legacy Wagon, and my struts only have about 20k on them. I used to have air ride suspension, but the PO swapped it out when a shock failed. So they were replace about 20k ago. So I would be willing to let them go for fairly cheap. I would let them go for the price of outback struts, if/when I find them. My plan is to do this in the next couple months (end of January at the latest), so if you want to wait I could give you mine. I might be able to do it sooner, I just need to come up with money for the struts to do my lift, so if that happens, then I can have the struts out sooner. PM me if you are interested if you can, I will watch this thread as well (you might not be able to PM). This might work out good for the both of us

Here's the "geeky" break down of the power button, and what it actually does in the code. Kinda cool if you like that sort of thing like I do http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/powermode.html

Little late to the party here, but better late than never! Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped get me unstuck! I hate being that guy Oh well Lessons learned: You NEED good tires if you don't want to get stuck, trust me! Second lesson, I should have installed my paddle shifters and DCCD knob. Then I could do 2nd gear starts and lock up my AWD. I was not able to do that so that kinda hindered me. So I should have installed those before heading up there. Next year I will have my 3" SJR lift installed with some 27" Bighorns, so traction and clearence shouldn't be an issue! I should also have my paddle shifter setup installed, so hopefully I won't be that guy again! Maybe I will be able to stay longer too if I am not so tired from working GY, meh. :-\ It was great meeting everyone and being able to put a face to the name. Thanks again Qman, Zap, Turbone, and anyone else involved with setting this up, it was fun! Hope to see you all next year!

It does still lock the TC up, just takes a while at cruising. It's does make the car feel sportier than stock for sure, and I really don't think it effect gas mileage that much. When I use my paddle shifter code for my TCU it uses the power shift maps, and it's alot of fun driving around in power mode all day long. Even on the freeway it will lock up the TC and give you decent mileage. I have even heard of guys just keeping it on all the time and not really noticing to much of a difference in anything other than having more fun driving around. Good stuff Thanks for the write up on this!

Ya, I am glad that I didn't have to do it myself, and I am glad the previous owners just put in new ones so I don't have to worry about new shocks for a long time Well, the remote start isn't really "hard" to install, it's more time consuming. It's only 8 wires to get the remote start part to "work". It took me about 2 hours to get it to start my car, and then another hour to "clean up" the install with split loom and hide it. This doesn't include the 2 hours of bench time I spent with the remote start unit cleaning up it's wiring and labeling it that I didn't do before from the person I bought it from, and then also wiring up all my relays for the keyless entry and so that the remote start unit can control my map lights and my dome lights (turn them on and off) when I unlock/lock my car. I have yet to install the door lock motor in my drivers door, so I haven't wired in the map/dome lights either, so that will be another good 2-3 hours to install the actuator in the door, and then wire up everything else. So I would say a good solid 8 hours of work to install the remote start and keyless entry the proper way, and have most of the features work that I wanted. And this is being well prepared and familiar with the remote start and with Subaru's wiring in general. I pretty much new where to find all my wires without even really looking online for any help. Granted I did find alot of help, but being familiar with how Subaru wires stuff helps out a lot as well. I also removed the ignition switch so that I could solder and heat shrink all my wires to the ignition harness so I will not have any issues with that in the future So removing the harness, soldering everything together for that took a little bit of time as well. You could not do this step and use something else instead (I used wire nuts and zip ties before and didn't have any issues, but I didn't like it, but at the time my soldering iron wasn't hot enough to solder the ignition wires so I had to use wire nuts) but I wouldn't really recommend doing that. You could also use "wire taps" but those SUCK and FAIL over time, so I would not recommend using them. I ended up using butt connectors (crimped them with a pair of vise grips to make sure it's crimped) to wire up the remote start unit it's self, and all is well. Just make sure you crimp the connector VERY well, and you shouldn't have any issues But I digress... So I would say that installing a remote start system is not for the faint of heart, that's for sure You had better have a good understanding of relays and how they work, and also a good 12v understanding in general about proper fusing and when/where to fuse and why you actually fuse as well. I added in about 8 more fuses total with everything, so knowing when and where to fuse properly is very important, especially if you are going to start your car without actually looking at it and sitting in it when it starts. Fires are bad, and they are very bad if you don't know they are happening Fusing is SUPER important when doing anything like this. Also this was my second time installing this remote start as well, 4th time installing keyless entry/alarm/power door locks, so I was familiar with it before I started installing, and I am somewhat familiar with this type of work, and that helped alot. The first time installing this in my loyale took me about 10 hours, and that didn't include the power door locks I can honestly say that after installing this one into my car, this is the only one that I have really done the "right" way. It took 4 times to figure out what not to do, and when and where to do what, and what works and doesn't work. And this was all by trail and error basically and LOTS of research and reading. I guess my point is, unless you have tried this type of thing before, I would probably just pay someone else to do it , seriously. Unless you like to learn of course, then I can point you to some great websites to give you some good background on 12v theory. Here's a link to the unit I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/VALET-562T-CAR-VEHICLE-REMOTE-STARTER-START-562TB-/330495871513?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf316ca19 Granted I bought mine used for $20 , and it has been one of the best $20 I spent! Granted it was used, but who cares, it's going into a used car! So they pop up on ebay for cheap every once in a while. A month ago or so there were a few of them for under $40 new... I also want to get this guy as well: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180588192600&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI This would just kick arse! You can program it to turn on at set times, and it also displays the temp inside the car and can start the car if it gets to cold inside the car. Kinda useless unless you sleep in your car at night But cool none the less. Just for the scheduled starting alone it's sweet. One of these is on my x-mas list, and if I don't get it for x-mas, I will be buying one right afterwards! Thanks! Ya, I love my "mouse fur" seats, they are great! I like that term, it's a great way of describing it Hopefully I am just about half way through it's life, so it should give me many more miles to come! So far this car is just fantastic, and I still love it! The next thing I am working on is installing a "4wd" button in my car so I can lockup my AWD whenever I want to. This is possible thanks to my modded TCU and it's DCCD knob I realized that I don't really use my DCCD knob that much, and when I did it was really just for "4wd", that and the switch I found is expensive, so I can up with a new idea... My new plan is to use my "manual" button on my gear shifter since it is not used at all with my modded TCU, but there are some logistic issues I need to workout before I can use it. Like it sends a 12v signal down the wire when the button is off, but a ground when it's on... So I's got's to think about it some more, but that's my plan. That way I have a button that looks completely stock because it is, and then I also have a light on my dash telling me when it's engaged, so I can never accidentally turn it on and not know it's on and ruin my MPT clutch pack. I hope to have this done before the x-mas tree run! I do plan on adding in an actual knob to allow more control over my AWD, but for now this will work great. That and it will be nice to just push the button on the side of the shifter for "4wd", and not have to turn a knob I will post more once I get this done!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=963942&postcount=14

I have been there to man. I had a 1987 GL-10 a few years back, and when I got some money I threw almost $2500 for a "new" ea82 and trans. Found this board several years later and kick myself for being so dumb. But live and learn. Too bad your mom is hell bent on wasting her money at the stealership, there are WAY better options. Granted they might take time, but I got WAY more time than money, so guess which option I would choose? But it sounds like it's not really up to you, so it is what it is. I am not saying that the dealership will do shoty work or anything like that, but they are trained at selling things like cars, warranties, and repairs, so it sounds like they got your mom real good and scared for her little baby boy My guess is that is more the reason why the new transmission is the "best and only option" rather than the actually transmission options themselves wether it be used from CL, the board here, or the JY. Most JY also offer warranties on stuff like that, so you would think that would help sooth her mind. That and the difference in price! But whatever, the stealership did their job and got a new tranny out of your mom As for the comment that if the JY trans is bad it's a lot of effort to swap it out again... Uh, no it's not, you have already done it! I know with me the 2nd time I do ANYTHING, I usually do it about 2x faster than I did the first time! So after doing it once, a tranny swap should be no big thang at all! But I digress... Don't let this whole experience burn you on Subaru's either. Doesn't sound like it will, but just keep that in mind. Once you get all the regular maintenance done on it, it should run for a long time and give you years of trouble free miles. I love my subies alot! Glad you found the board as well, so at least you can see that they are more options than just taking it to the dealer. So now you can have some goals to get better at working on cars so that if this happens again it won't be a big deal at all to get down and dirty to "git-r-done". I know that my mechanic skills have improved greatly do to the board here (thanks all!) so hopefully it will do the same for you! Good luck man, and keep us posted!

Remove the sunroof and then use compressed air to blow out all the drains while it's out. I just did that on my legacy because the seal went bad, like what's mentioned in the TSB. Took me about 3 hours total to remove it, fix it and reinstall it. I also had my dad help me out to have another set of hands which was much needed. So if you have someone to help you out, it will go ALOT faster than if it was just you. I would go to the yard first and pull one, then you can see what it takes to take it down. Sounds like yours is kinda messed up anyways, so replacing it might not be a bad idea. That way you can destroy the JY car and not yours when trying to figure out how to remove it I would also stay away from the stealership on this one. The labor alone will probably be $500 if not more. So if you are capable, do it yourself and save your money! Good luck man, and post back if you fix it!

Dead battery. Get it tested and most likely replaced and you should be good to go! Any local auto parts store should be able to test the battery for you... Good luck!

Ya, I really like this wagon compared to my Loyale. I do miss my loyale, but it's not because of the ride I don't have any new pics, as I really haven't done anything to him besides fix the problems that keep coming up with him. But hopefully I got them all sorted out for now... The air shocks were replaced at about 125,xxx, so fairly recently, with new regular shocks. The air shocks were to expensive to replace, so they went with normal ones. Glad they did that and not me I was stoked when I found out that I could fix the door locks with just a paper clip! That was one of the best finds so far Took me no time to accomplish that task, so that was fantastic! I will post up some more pics once I do something more to him. But for now I don't really have any big plans, as I don't really have any money to complete some of the projects I have on the back burner. So when I get some cash and make some progress I will post up some more pics!