eulogious

I got it from the pirat3bay Torrents are wonderful things It's a 1992 FSM complete scan in one pdf. It's about 55mb and book marked really nicely as well. When I compared the two pinouts (mine and yours) they all seemed the same for the non-turbo. And this scan was easier to read because it didn't have the turbo info on it, and it was a better scan. But if it is different let me know, but it didn't look like it. I wasn't going to touch them, I am just going to double check them to make sure they are still good. Remember I didn't cut this harness down, so I know have to go through it to make sure it's all correct. I just wanted to verify that those are all the wires that I need to double check to make this thing run. Thanks for the info on the shield. I didn't think it was required (the only reason it's shielded is because it's a sine wave signal, like an audio signal, so it can suffer from signal attenuation over long distances). Since the ECU will be located in the engine bay, it doesn't have very far to travel. But I will double check them. Cool, thanks for letting me know the easiest way to get the wires is in the dash. I will go that route. Thanks for the tip about the oil light, I will find that and use that, it's perfect! Good to know that is what is meant by ignition, I will make sure that guy is hooked up. And the neutral switch should be easy to do as well, so I will just do it once and do it correctly. Thanks for all the help everyone! If it all looks good, then hopefully I can get this thing wired up and running pretty easily! If anyone has any other tips/tricks for the wiring part of this, feel free to chime in!

Ok, so now that you said that I don't got any beef I guess my whole point was since you are doing the work on the trans, do the guide anyways and that seems to be what you are going to do. So that's cool, that's all I was getting at. I also didn't mean to trivialize the work been done to your trans, so sorry if that was how I came across. Alot of work has gone into it, so I apologize if that's how I came across. I also understand that since you are putting the money into this, the information that comes out of it basically yours to do what you please with, and that might include "selling" it to offset your costs. That's your choice, and I don't really have a problem with that. So I get that as well. It's not something that I would do, but you are not me So I will be watching this thread, and if by chance the guides gets done while I have a few bucks in my pocket I will probably send it your way. Good luck man!

Wow, I wasn't trying to frustrate anyone here, just stating why there might not be anyone wanting to do this, so just calm down man. This is seriously something that you shouldn't really get that frustrated about. Opinions are opinions, and the internet is full of them I see both sides as well. My point is that he is doing it anyways, so why not post up what he has. That's all. I could see if his trans was working fine and he wanted to pull the good working trans out and tear it down it I could see the need for donation, but that is not the case here. The trans is already coming out, the leg work has/will be done by the end of this, so why not just post it up? That's all. I will never ask for a donation to post up something that I have to do anyways, but apparently that's just me, and I am ok with that. I am not going to chime in anymore. I would donate if I really had the money, and yes $5 means gas getting to work/food for my lunch/dinner for a night right now for me, so I really don't have that. Times are THAT tough for me right now, so don't make it out like $5 is no big deal because to some that is simply not the case Good luck and if I come across some money I will donate just to have the info available.

Ok, so I have been thinking about this for a while and have come to a couple of conclusions on this whole thing. One of the biggest reasons I think you are going to have problems getting "donations" from people because this a free internet site, and people already donate to the USMB to get this type of info, so why pay for it twice? The way that I "pay" someone for something that I have learned from the forum or did because of the forum is I post topics that help people, and also help answer other people's questions. I don't ask them to donate via PP before I will help them... Seems a little tacky the more I think about it. I mean my paddle shifter build thread took me almost 4 months to research, do, and then write up, and my employer pays me at over $30/hour, so my time ain't free, but I posted it up for free to contribute back to the community for all the help that I have gotten from it already, and for all the help I will get in the future. It took alot of my free time to do, but I thought that it was important that I give back for free rather than keep all that info to myself because I feel I should be payed for it Second, we have no idea what this "How-to" is going to entail, or how detailed it is going to get. For $250 I would expect videos, pictures, a very, very detailed written explanations, on top of the FSM scans with every piece of info you know on it. And then probably then some on top of that. Ya, you mentioned that you are a writer, but we still don't know what type of guide we are going to get from you for this price, which makes me a little nervous sending you money. Third, why would this take you so long to do that you can't work AT ALL when writing this? It took me about 3 weeks to write my paddle shifters up in to a how-to because I did it slowly over several nights, so why don't you do that so that the community can benefit from you knowledge, and you won't have to go without employment? It's already been 2 years people have been waiting for this, so I am sure we are willing to wait a little longer for something that will be free. Also it seems like all the leg work is done already. You already know how the trans goes together and works, you mentioned that already, and it seems like you already have pics of the process, so why don't you just throw up a half assed tutorial and then let other fill in the blanks and benefit from all this knowledge if you don't have the time? There are others on this forum that also know this stuff and would probably be able to fill in the blanks. Infact I believe Chux would probably be really good at that, since it seems he has done this, or some thing like this before. I guess to me it seems a little weird that you are asking for money to do something that alot of us already do, which is contribute, and we do it for free while working full time jobs, having families, and living life. Ontop of all of this, it sounds like the hard part is done already, you just need to write it up, and you need to do the work on the trans anyways for yourself to get a trans again, so why not just throw up what you have since you are in there already fixing it AND already have all the knowledge needed to do this? It's not like you taking a good tranny apart and destroying it to make another, you are rebuilding it because you have to, so since you have to do it anyways, you should just throw it up to share with everyone, since you already have to tear into the trans. And it seems you have already done the research, so why do you need to get paid again since you have already done most of the leg work? Again, seems a little tacky to want money for sharing something you have to do anyways and already have all the knowledge needed to do it. The internet is a fantastic place to learn and to share info, all for free, so you might have a hard time getting money for something that should be free. I would love to have this guide for future reference, but if I don't see it my world isn't going to come crashing down on me. Someone else will do it for free eventually, that's just the way it goes. If you have managed to do this, then someone else can as well, it's just a matter of time. Don't get me wrong, I would donate towards this if my wife hadn't lost her job recently and our income took a hit, but I can't right now. And that kinda sucks as I would like to have this info. Times are hard for a lot of people right now, and I understand the need for money, but one of the coolest things about the internet and forums is that most of the info is free and shared freely with everyone. For me, it's cool to know that some good things in life can be free. My .02 after thinking about this anyways...

Ahh, I get it. They needed some way to be able to control the fuel pump when the engine is running, and since they didn't have a computer running everything, they needed a way to sense when the engine is running, so they came up with that guy. This was then replaced by the relay when the computer was brought into the equation. Thanks for the explanation on the carbed fuel pump "relay", it all makes sense now Thanks for the diagram as well! Is there anyway I can get a more high res pic from you on that? It would be handy to see it all and be able to read it clearly, and I might be able to answer some of my own questions. But it's better than nothing Thanks for the wire break down as well, that will help tremendously I was sitting here thinking about where would be the smartest place to tap into some of these wires, and I realized that some of them are already in the engine bay so I should just tap into them instead of using the ones in the dash. Duh! But the problem is I don't know what wires are what in the engine bay since I did not pull the motor, nor do I have any diagrams of these wires. The only wires that I need to know that I think would be in the engine compartment already would be the oil pressure wire and the temp gauge wire. Those would have to be in the engine compartment. So does anyone with a '86 FSM know where I can find these 2 wires in the engine bay? And the neutral switch, how does it get "hooked up"? Is it just grounded? Looks like it is… Ok, so here's the breakdown of what I plan on doing to get it all wired in, so correct me if something doesn't seem right I am just trying to get my ducks in a row. 1. Get the fuel pump power from the EJ fuel pump relay using the blue/red wire (goes directly to fuel pump) off the FPCU. 2. Wire in the tach signal from the EJ ECU to the tach wire coming from the FPCU. 3. Wire in a ~270ohm resistor on the temp gauge wire in the engine compartment, and wire that in to the existing wire in the engine bay. 4. Wire in the "dummy" light for oil pressure from the wire in the engine bay. 5. Get the switched power from the FPCU to power the EJ ignition relay (what color wire is it? The car doesn't have a battery as of now, and I don't want to put one in just to find this wire, so any help would be great ). 6. Get the VSS signal from the back of the dash off the reed switch in the speedo (wire color would be sweet ). 7. Get the check engine light from the dash connector. i-38, should be the light green wire in the upper right when looking down at the connector. 8. Get the "choke" wire from the starter wire (black, fused) in the ignition switch. 9. Run a wire directly off the battery (fused) to power the ECU always. 10. Wire in the radiator fans either off their own switch/relay, or by letting the ECU control them. 11. Ground(?) the neutral switch to prevent the CEL from coming on for no reason. I think that about does it for all the connections I need to tap into for this all to work, correct? Again, thanks for all the help so far!

Your headlights are being blown out?? High RPM's should not affect that at all, only if your VR was going out and allowing to many volts to the headlights. You got something else going on, ontop of the high idle. I would check my alt as well… I would swap the other IAC in and see if you still have high idle, then it would rule out the IAC, but if your high idle goes away and the funky idle returns after swapping the IAC, you would at least have it narrowed down to the IAC being funky.

Ok, so I updated my diagram to reflect using the EJ fuel pump relay. So instead of running a new wire to the fuel pump, I should just be able to cut the wire going to the fuel pump relay that goes to the fuel pump and tie into it that way, correct? This would avoid me having to run another wire for that… What's the color for the wire on the carbed models that goes to the fuel pump, and/or does my diagram show the location of the wire properly? The EJ is just a dummy light correct? So I could hook the gauge up, but it will just peg itself if there is something wrong, correct? As for the temp, all it does is give a reading for the driver so there isn't a need for a temp input for the ecu, correct? The CTS should be on the motor itself and should be ok without touching it. I believe this is the case, so then I should just be able to wire in a resistor and that should work in theory, so I will try that before switching anything over… I plan on tapping into the starter wire in the ignition for the "choke" on the ecu, since that wire only gets power when starting, so it should work fine, correct? Here are some diagrams of the ECU I/O that I took the liberty of highlighting what seems to be the important wires. The yellow highlight is what is required for me to tap into for the engine to run (the temp sensor highlight is wrong, but I didn't want to reupload the photo, so ignore it ), the red highlight are the grounds, and the blue highlight is what I am not sure about. They are not the same diagrams that Chux has, but they are from a 1992 Legacy MPFI non-turbo, so the wire locations should be the same, just different connector names/numbering… These diagrams are a little clearer as well, but correct me if these diagrams are wrong. How critical are the shields? What about the neutral switch and the ignition switch, are they needed for the motor to run correctly? Do I have everything that is important highlighted that I need to tap into? I am going to use this to double check the harness as well to make sure I have good connections where I need them, and having it highlighted properly would make it lots easier Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly, and I am trying to avoid any major mistakes on my part since I have never done this before So thanks for all the help so far guys!

Sweet, thanks for explaining why I want to use the EJ fuel pump relay. I was really curious about that one, thanks. Also thanks again for the quick write up. That explains pretty much what I was gathering, but in more detail. I will have to make sure I have that guy on hand when I go up there next. Thanks again man! Anyone else confirm my other questions since I don't have a fsm?

I have mine so I can rotate it out and light up the area behind the car if I wanted too, I left some slack there just for that. Thanks for the LED idea, I will have to look into that, it sounds alot better than my fog light I have now. But I managed to do this with stuff that I had laying around in my garage so it cost me nothing, so I can't complain to much about it too much But like you said, now that it's all wired in, swapping out the light should not be an issue.

That's awesome man. If you only paid $250 for the car, and the stereo is less than that, and it actually sounds OK, well you can't beat that It has taken me a while to get the system I have now and lots of time searching for and researching stuff. Being a part of a car audio forum really helps as well. To give you an idea of what I have into my system: Headunit: 6 year old Kenwood that just won't fail Front speakers: I had them kicking around, the tweeters I got in a trade for basically $10 give or take $5 Rear speakers: Came with the car 4 Channel Amp (zx450): Traded my wii I got for my birthday 3 years ago for it Now I start to "pay" for things Sub amp: $40 after trading some sound damping Subwoofer: Friend bought for me for helping him install his stereo stuff. I owe him some money for it, but like 30% of the price BassCUBE: $100 RCA's: $10 Power Wire: $20 Random install crap (Relays, wire ends, battery terminals, etc): $50 Fancy distro block: $20 So all said and done I am in about $275 give or take a little as well, but it as taken me about 4 or five months and several trips to Portland and Seattle to get all of this stuff, and I am still not done. There is still more stuff I will upgrade. But so far it's been well worth the effort I should also mention that at the same time I have also pieced together enough stuff to fill my wifes trunk with amps and a sub as well in the same time frame, so I have been busy I haven't spent nearly that much on my wife's stuff though, more like $100 But I must say I like you approach actually, and when I can ever get the money for a wheelin' rig I might follow your approach. Simple, cheap, but effective for what it is. I think you will be blown away in the difference in the sound, and that's all that really matters Especially if it's a wheelin' rig, there is NO use of putting a good stereo in a wheelin' rig. It would suck to be worrying about your gear all the time while trying to have fun in the mud and water :-\ It will be interesting to see what you come up with man! If you need help installing your stuff, LMK, it would be fun to install some stuff into the roof

Howdy all, So I am helping Scott in Bellingham with the wiring on an EJ 2.2 swap that is going into a 1986 carbed GL(?) coupe (don't know the year of the motor), and I have a couple of questions that I couldn't find the answers for. I think I answered them, but if any of the guru's could double check me, I would greatly appreciate it So here it goes!, keep in mind I am only dealing with the wiring, so assume everything else has been done correctly I am just worrying about powering it correctly for now. I guess I should also say that I did NOT cut this harness down, I am just working with what I have and this harness will need alot of TLC, but that's a different issue. I am also 200 miles away from the car as well. I made this diagram to show how I want to wire up the harness: So my first question is, do I really need to use the EJ fuel pump relay, or can I use the EA one that's already in there? If I can use the EA one that's there, where is it located? Under the dash, on the left side of the steering wheel? I don't have a FSM that has any carbed anything in it, so I could not verify. What I want to do is run the ground from the ECU to the fuel pump relay ground, so it acts just like stock. So my next question that follows the same lines is, is the wire mentioned in my diagram the correct wire to tap into? The ground for the relay was the only wire that didn't change color for MPFI to SPFI, so I am hoping it didn't change from carb to fi, but please correct me on that if I am wrong Since I don't have a FSM for a carb car, just my 1988 FSM which only had FI, can someone verify my wires for everything else? I am not really concerned about the colors, but more of the pins/location, but if the colors are the same, it would be sweet to know that. I guess the last question, does my diagram look ok? Am I missing something? This is my first time playing with a EJ swap harness, so I very well could be missing something, and any tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated! Thanks all!

This is a really cool idea, even if I don't have a manual or want of for that matter. But, if I had some money I would throw down towards this just to have the guide. It would be well worth it. If I do happen to have any money kicking around, I will send it your way. Good luck man!

Hello all, So I got tired of not having any light in the cargo area of my 1990 T-Wagon, so I decided to do something about it. My first idea was to just get the rear light for my wagon that came stock. Yes, this would add more light in the back, it would still only add a little bit of light, not enough that it would make me happy. So I decided to go another route. I happen to have a set of cheapy fog lights that were used and given to me by a friend. I have no real use for these, so I decided that I would sacrifice one of them and mount it in my cargo area of my wagon. I also happen to have a relay kicking around as well as an inline fuse and a lighted switch, so I had everything needed to make this happen. So after a couple of hours of messing around with mounting the switch and the light it's self, I had success! Lucky for me, I already had a great power supply in the back, my stereo equipment! So I tapped into the power, wired in the relay, mounted my switch and the light, and presto! TONS of light in the back now Here's some pics: This is before in the dark with just the dome light on in the car: Pretty dark. This is the same area, just taken with the light on: Big difference! Needless to say, I like it alot. Since I work at night, most of my time is spent at night in the dark, so this will really help me out. I no longer have to fumble around till I find my flashlight in order to see in the back! Here's some more pics of where I mounted my switch and the light. I used a lighted switch, I figured that it would be easier to see at night, so why not? I mounted the light on the passenger side, sideways, so that it would light up close to the middle of the back: I left the wires out for movement room, because I can rotate the light to face out the back if I would like, so this gives me a little bit of clearance to move the light. Here's a pics with the cover over it so you can see where the light hits: The one thing I noticed is that the light gets HOT. So I just need to be careful to not leave the thing on for extended periods of time, it will get very hot. But other than that, it's great having a light in the back that actually lights up everything back there at night, I love it! I just thought that I would share

Any body can build a budget build that still sounds good. Here's the breakdown of what I have and how much I paid (not all of this is installed in my car now). I got a 50x4 RMS amp, a Phoenix Gold tantrum 500.4 for $40 of CL. This is a very clean sounding amp that will actually put out 50x4 all day long of good, clean sound. My sub amp was $100 and it's a PG ti400.2 that puts out 400x1 RMS all day long. You can pick up a good 8" for about $100, throw it in a small box and mount it to your roof. If you build your own box, you can design it to fit into your roof better as well. So for about $250, not including wiring, you can have a good sounding setup. But you need to know what you are looking for, and keep an eye out on CL for the good deals. I won't buy amps new anymore, I just look out for and buy good quality used stuff. That's what I would do I will agree that amping your front speakers is going to make a world of difference, especially if you get some good clean sound going to them. It's like night and day. But if you are just looking for something to give you some sound, then it really doesn't matter and easier is best What you listed is some cheap stuff, but if that's all you are looking for, then who cares! I don't have any problems with road noise at all. If I hear the road, I just turn it up In fact I can go down the freeway with all my windows down, and I still can't really hear the road noise No joke on that either There are times when my stereo is TOO loud

Pics! This is my second one :-\ As you can see I didn't get this one perfect But you can't really see it at all with the cover in place. This one was my first attempt, much better And then the two rear, which I did much better on: And then with the cargo cover in place: Hope that helps. These were all taken with my phone, so pardon the crappiness If you got any questions, ask away!

Sorry I forgot to get those pics for you, I will snap them in the morning, maybe here in a few. Yes, you can cut holes in your panels and it will work. Use markjw's pics as a reference. What I did was remove the panels and once they were removed I was able to see the mounting locations in the frame. So once I saw those, I just lined up my drill and my panel, and started drilling holes, and then used an exacto knife to make the holes better/bigger. Then mounted the hardware in. Done. Took about 45 min. All I had to get was the mounting hardware, but I picked that up at a junkyard. The hardware is pressed into the frame (I usually have to smack it really hard with my palm to get it to "snap" into place, and yes it does "snap" in when you get it in), and then screws are used to secure/tighten the hardware to the frame. There is one screw for the mounts by the hatch, and then two for the mounts by the rear seats. I am interested in your blue one You got a PM about it. Sl33py, do you have a gray interior? I think you do, if so, if I can grab this blue one from markjw, then I can sell you my gray one, or whateva, markjw's is probably nicer... I want to stop by and check out your car anyways one of these days, just let me know...

What's different than from what I did? Look to be the exact same, but if it is different I would like to know... Also, did the other dude having any problems with his trans when he got it to run?

I guess that it goes back to the ODBI and ODBII simple/complex thing we were talking about earlier. I was just speculating... You would think that the computer would realize to keep them open longer, but it could literally be limited by the math that the subaru engineers didn't put it It just might be too much torque/power for the ej 2.2 ecu to handle. Upping the fuel pressure seems like a good idea to me, but I know nothing about fuel systems really, so I am no expert and have no idea what it would effect. But if you start putting just a little bit more fuel to the system a little at a time and see what happens, I can't imagine what you could really destroy, but again, what do I know But I would give that a try and see what happens. That would be great if that was all it needed!

That's nucking futz man. This is a little off base, but whateva... This totally reminds me of what my parents honda lawn mower did right before we got the carb rebuilt. It would do that exact same thing. When they rebuilt the carb on the mower they said it was plugged up pretty good, but after a good cleaning and tuning it runs great now. But this is very strange to see a car do that. It almost seems like it's starving itself for fuel, so then the computer kicks the idle up to keep it from dying then it's fine, and then it starts starving, the idle drops, and the cycle starts over again. I wonder if swapping in 2.5 injectors as mentioned along with a 2.5 ecu would help? What are the differences in the injectors? It would make sense that they would be a little bigger to help with the increase in power going from 2.2 to 2.5, so then the ecu would also have to have different maps and what not to take advantage of the new injectors and to run properly. But I really don't know what I am talking about I am just thinking out loud

That's a good point. I was more speaking hypothetically. If/when I do this to my car I will get the cams, go big or go home, right? After spending some time working with an actually EJ harness that is going into a swap, I am kinda getting ansi to want to do this to my car. The wiring is more daunting when you don't really understand what's going on, but once you get the jist of it, it's not THAT hard, at least compared to my paddle shifters But money will keep that from happening any time real soon :-\ I am curious what the idle is really like though. Is it really that bad, or just barely noticeable? Can you describe what's it's like? Is it like knocking, and running rough, or just kinda slightly off when it idles? My car is my DD, so as long is it's not totally unbarable I don't see any problem with it, the power benefits will out way the idle issues

Fair enough I truthfully had never thought of that before, so that's why I mentioned it, when I saw what you wrote. I thought that it was a great idea to be able to use the bigger block for more power, but keep all the simple and reliable stuff. It's the best combo, so thanks for pointing out yet another reason to do this motor Even if you don't go all "crazy" with the cams, I still think that this is a good way to go. Best of both worlds.

Wouldn't it also allow you to stay with ODBI instead of having to wire in all the other junk to get ODBII to work for the whole 2.5? Weren't all 2.5's, or most anyways, ODBII? To me the frankenmotor not only puts out great power right off idle, but also allows you to keep with the more simpler ODBI setup. I could be off on that, but that's what it seems like to me, so please correct me if I am wrong I would much rather have the simpler setup installed because it will allow me to "hack" it more without the addition more sensors and other stuff that will just complicate everything. To me that is one of the main reason why I like my older soob is because it's simple, so I would like to keep it that way as much as possible

Yup yup, I was planning on it I will also bring my iron as well and some inline fuses to wire it up properly, since this will be your daily driver I think that I got some wire loom around here as well that I could bring up. But either way I will send you the info so that you got it on hand to be able to get it wired in, whether I do it or someone else. I don't mind doing it, it's good practice

What the issue with the trans? You shouldn't have to do anything for the AWD to work. That mod is nice (I have it done through the modded TCU through the DCCD knob) but not necessary for the AWD to work... We have a link of it somewhere around here as well, infact I believe I did it and posted about it. Used the resistors and all. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105077

That wiring is very special, I tell you what :-\ Took me two hours of sorting through it to get it into that shape, and it still needs help The harness needs a good going through with an soldering iron and heat shrink, but it "should" run That is if it's done correctly. All I did was sort it out, and that's a big start. So I don't if the person who did it originally did it correctly, and I could only verify it so much, so if it doesn't run it will be interesting diagnosing it :-\ But not impossible. He's hoping the reason it wasn't running before was because of the woodruff key being all messed up and then causing the key way to get all messed up as well. So now that that's all fixed it should run... It was fun working on the car though, I learned alot!