eulogious

Nice progress! I just cleared it with my boss, so I will be getting off work early, so I should be able to be up to your place between 9-10am I look forward to seeing what you got planned and how you are going to do it!

Or maybe a modded ECU might fix up that problem? hmmmm Now I have some more interested in that, since I want to put this motor into my car at some point. Something to think about… A MS would most definitely fix the problem as well if the problem is with the ECU and it's fuel maps, there is just a lot more work with wiring and what not, but none the less would be equally as cool and give you loads of options to play with. You might even be able to get some more power out of it with a MS , though it sounds like you don't need any more power

I am taking ques from this tutorial on making your own HU spacer/surround… http://phoenixphorum.com/make-a-face-plate-for-a-non-standard-radio-opening-vt884.html?sid=a01c4d4c7d423ba8ab31c50e04a82828 If you got some time, you should check out the phorum It's good stuff, lots of good info about car stereo stuff. I have everything already measured out, just need to cut it, and then buy the good paint. So all said and done it will not only look better, it will not look cheap either And you will be different, well, different than most anyways Just an idea...

Spiderless, now that's interesting! That is a really slim sub, I wonder how it sounds. Hmmm, I might have to stop by when you get your system in and compare our gear I am up in Seattle quite often, yesterday in fact. That sub really intrigues me… Might have to research that guy up after getting some sleep I will be interested in what you come up with to get the speakers to fit, since I will be traveling down that path here sometime in the near future

Here's the link to my paddle shifter build thread. That will have all the info you need about modding a phase 1 tcu. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110222&highlight=paddle+shifter I am curious on way ecutune and IPT said that you can not put a phase 2 4eat up to a odb1 car. I would really like to know what changed specifically in the trans that would make it not function without those 2 extra wires. Doesn't really add up. Or maybe they are referring to the TCU being a phase 2 and that it wouldn't talk to an odbI car correctly? That would make more sense. But you should just be able to swap a phase 1 and phase 2 tcu, and the trans should still shift fine and act normal. That is unless they added something physically to the trans that would make it not work properly without having those wires. So unless they completely rewrote the firmware, I don't see why the trans would go into limp mode to prevent excessive shift, . That's a little overkill for the problem. Like a sledge hammer to kill a fly. But I could be wrong... I am not all that familiar with odbII stuff. If you have any question on modding the TCU, just feel free to ask, I will help where I can. This looks like it should be a fun project

Wow, I wish I would have seen this a little earlier, I might be of some assistance. Here's some good docs on the 4eat phase 1 and phase 2. http://www.endwrench.com/current/winter04/4eat1b.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EATPhase2.pdf So after reading about the phase 2 and trying to figure out what the torque control does and why the ECU needs it, I found this: So all it does is retard the timing to prevent shift shock. Not a big deal if this doesn't happen I would think. So now the next question is, what will the ECU do if it doesn't get that signal? Well, from my FSM's that I have (a 1996 legacy, it's the only one that had the trouble shooting section in it so I could see what the symptoms are due to a lack of a torque control signal, but it's ODBII, so it should still be the same...) it looks like all that will happen is poor acceleration. It also looks like the signal it receives is just 5v... So you might be able to fool it by just sending the ECU a 5 volt signal all the time? I don't know exactly how the torque control signals is interpreted by the ECU, but I am sure you could either just run 5v to it and see what happens, and then remove the 5v and see what happens. You could probably just add in some resistors to get the voltage down to where it needs to be from 12v. It doesn't require alot of amperage for the circuit to work, so resistors should work fine in dropping the voltage. But this is just dealing with the engine running, and not with the trans actually shifting and acting normal without the torque control cut signal or mass airflow signal. That's a whole other ball of wax. Now the TCU get's 3 input signals actually (if you couldn't tell from above ) from the ECU. Engine RPM, torque control cut, and mass airflow signal. After looking up in the trouble shooting section, the TCU does not do anything weird if it does not get the torque control cut signal, or the mass airflow signal. There is no "Trouble Symptoms" listed for either of these signals, but there is one for the engine RPM signal. So this would lead me to believe that the TCU will just ignore the errors for the torque control signal and the mass airflow signal and function just fine. Now another option for you would be to mod a legacy/svx TCU, then it wouldn't matter. And you wouldn't have to pay ecutune to play with your TCU. I have a modded TCU right now in my car, and the only thing that it needs is the engine RPM, other than that it's a separate subsystem all by itself. Having a EG33 is not an issue either. You can make the TCU think it's using a 6 cylinder by just changing a variable, so that's not an issue if you go this route. You can also change anything you want to in the ROM itself as well. But it's an intense project to take on, ontop of the engine swap. But I LOVE my paddle shifters! Granted mine is for a 1990 Loyale with a "phase 0" 4eat, but I don't see what really would have changed in the transmissions inter workings that it would need a "torque control" signal or a mass airflow signal to shift and act normal. But you could add in the paddle shifters and make a really cool, fun project out of it, especially with that EG33 behind it, and not have to worry about any other signals... The only thing that I would be worried about is how the ECU will act without the torque control cut signal, but you might be able to trick it into working. Let us know how it goes man!

Dang! That's some nice power out of a N/A motor! Good job man! I will be curious to see what you come up with about the idle issue and what needs to happen to fix it, so please keep us informed! I am also curious as to what upgrade you are thinking about doing to try to solve the handling/braking issue. Probably a five lug swap, or something along those lines... I am guessing at some point you will probably get a full EJ drive terrain and suspension up under it, then WRX gear will just fit right up! But I really don't know what I am talking about So what do you have planned? I can imagine trying to keep that beast under control must be a challenge! A fun challenge, but a challenge non-the-less I think this motor will be really good for my DD I have a 4eat already and it's going to get swapped out with one out of an impreza that has been rebuilt and has 4.11 gears , so this will be sweet with full time AWD and all the yummy torque The 4eat is a stout enough trans for the svx, well they do tend to eat trannies like no other sometimes but its WAY heavier than my ea82 wagon and probably has 30-50 more hp so no wonder it eats them..., it should be a good match for me! Man having all that torque right off idle would be just fantastic, especially teamed up with AWD and lower final drive gearing, that's just freakin' sweet With all that torque and my paddle shifters, would I really need/want low range gearing (aka a D/R)? More of a rhetorical question, but really makes me wonder if I would really need/want it, and I am leaning towards no, especially since I don't miss it now and love my 4eat I just like AWD alot

Nice!! Was this the motor you mentioned to me GD? Sounds like it Can we get the "readers digest" version of the build? I am just looking for specs, and what is different to give it that much more power... that nabisco thread is pretty long... What type of power do you think it's putting down? A dyno run would be sweet... but I understand if that doesn't happen, it is a Brat afterall, not an STI Either way, I think I have found the motor to replace my ea82t when it poops out on me I take it GD helped with it? You got any pics? Good job guys!

WOW There's a one up I wasn't expecting I though that I was a geek, geesh, I guess not! He takes the cake on that one for sure! But it would be pretty sweet to have your own mainframe just hanging out in your living room That would make for some interesting dinner conversation

One of the reason I like my ea82 wagon is because it's not as wide as the legacy. My previous DD was a 1985 Toyota MR2, and I DD'ed it for 4 years straight. And I kinda drive my ea82 like the MR2, because it's just about as wide as the MR2, just a little longer. So I can pull into parking spaces easily and get around town and not have to worry about having a "big" car. I really like that. I also love the interior of the ea82's. It's super simple, and everything is within a fingers reach while driving. I really like the layout. Simple but yet informative. I also like having all the gauges that you get with an ea82, most of the time. Having oil pressure and voltage readings come in really handy when driving around a 20 year old car. The engine leaves a lot to be desired, but everything else about it I like it... Just my .02

No problem, glad I could help! If you got anymore question feel free to ask, I will help where I can! Good luck!

Nice start man! Lookin' forward to seeing what you come up with! The next HU I am going to get doesn't have CD's at all, but is the same size still because it has a hard drive in it So ya, not all no CD decks are smaller Are we now having a geek contest? I want in! Who's running modified firmware they installed to control some major aspect of their car like the engine or transmission? Because I am! I also work on a mainframe for a living... Does it really get anymore geeky than that?

Nice dude! That is a good lookin' speaker I agree it's a shame to hid it in the door. But the whole point of a speaker isn't what it looks like now is it I really wish I could get some good, decent components, but hey, you take what you can get! One of these days... Glad I could help you out a little! That's why I started my thread was to help someone else out if they wanted to go down this route. I knew I couldn't be the only one who wanted good tunes

There nothing wrong with going overboard My system is easily worth more than my car, there is nothing wrong with that I will get better speakers here in a bit, I know I will, I just don't really know when. i am glad that I have tunes, and good tunes at that. I just wish I had more $$$ to be able to play with it more. I don't mind spending money on something that I am going to keep for a while Ya, you should start a build thread, I am curious what you come up with!

I believe you either have to ground a pin or unground a pin on the ecu, but that's all, if you even have to do that. The ECU and TCU are pretty primitive in the EA82's, so there is hardly any "talking" between the two. All the ECU needs to know is if you have an auto or manual, and that is decided by grounding/ungrounding a pin. I will look into my notes here and see if I can find the actual pin you need... Other than the pin (which you may not even need), I think that is it...

I never said it was your fault or you did it!

My point wasn't whether or not he fried something, it was to just be really careful with these old electronics, and that you can fry stuff very easily That's all. Like I said I know nothing about the EJ stuff, but I do know electronics... So I will now shutup and learn something that might help when I go down this road Good luck fixing it man!

Also, I would check all your fusible links and fuses. Something could have blown while you were out playing with it. Also check your grounds as well. If this is the car you got from scott, that wiring was a mess, so you might have accidentally unpluged/loosened some wires in the engine bay as well, so maybe just go out and go over the area where you were working and see if something obvious stands out or that is loose? Sometimes we miss the simple things to try...

I don't know of anything specific that I can tell you since I don't have a swap, but I can tell you this much. Most inputs on any type of circuit will have a limit of the amount of voltage that it can take. So if you connected the wire (I take it it's probably coming off the negative side of the coil?) to the tach input on the ECU, it's possible that you fried the ECU. The coil puts out lots of power, especially if it's just right off the coil AND the input circuit isn't designed for that power, so that *could* have fried something in the ECU. I would tend to lean that way, since it worked before you started messing with it, and now it doesn't... I would also recommend NOT randomly hooking up wires to see what will happen without doing any testing first. Atleast test the wire with a DMM to see what type of signal it's putting out before you willy nilly hook up wires to the ECU. That's the easiest way to create magic smoke from electronic devices. Don't know if that helps you or not, but might give you an idea of what you are up against at this point...

What components? Are you talking about my hacked together 6.5" speaker in one door and 4" speaker in the other, with tweets that are run through my really crappy JBL "xover"? You talkin' about that lovely setup? Well, I don't have any pictures of it, because it's pathetic I blew my other 6.5" speaker I had, and the only other speaker I have kicking around was a 4" jobber, so that got thrown in. Then I picked up the tweets for a good deal. The tweets are actually good PG tweets, just the "xover" is really a joke I had it kicking around so I just used it since I had it, but it works and separates the sounds like it should and raise the sound stage up higher so it's not down on the floor. But other than that, it sucks :-\ If it wasn't for my zx450, it would sound like crap, but the zx450 sounds really good, so it kinda makes up for it. Now if my wife would not have lost her job, then I might actually have a decent set of speakers, but for now all my money has to go towards living :-\ and car repairs, so no new stereo stuff for me for a while. I got some stuff I need to pay off that I will be installing, but after that, nothing new for me It will be interesting to see what you do with a slim sub. There's not a lot of room back there, so it will be good to see what you do. If you are looking to save space, install the amps like I did, it's great! They are out of the way and can be covered up really easily. You can even just keep the lid on the compartment and that would save a bunch of hassle. I just don't care that much...

Well, what did you do? If it was working before you went out there, and now it's not, just undo anything you did while trying to figure out your tach. If you can't remember, then you need to figure out how to diagnose things properly One thing at a time man! That way it's easy to figure out why things don't work if they break! Let us know what you did before it stopped working, and we might be able to help you more

Sounds like fun Scott! Is this the car that we picked up? If it is, glad to see it getting put to use I need to get up there and help you out. You will have a PM coming here shortly... This should be a good build. Haven't seen any subies built up for towing AND dd use....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114465

I can look in my FSM later today, if I remember. I don't know what it says, but I can take a look. I will try to remember to do that here in the next few days...

I really like it so far, it does look better. I am glad that it doesn't have the external fans as well, looks better, and is safer as well. I was noticing that it was really clean as well, so that's awesome for me Thanks for picking out a good one for me I was thinking the same thing about getting a smaller belt. Thanks for verifying how much shorter. I will be replacing that belt here in a little bit. So it's good to know what I need to be looking for Yes you did send me the connector, but I messed it up and broke it trying to remove the connectors that I didn't even need too Oh well, live and learn. So the connector is broke, but I put some new spade connectors on it and smothered it in dielectric grease, so it's good for now. I am going to head to the JY here in the next few days and when I replace the belt, I will add the correct connector. Like I said, live and learn. Thanks for hooking me up with an alt! No problem with the pics, it's the least I can do to try to contribute back This is an awesome upgrade, and I highly recommend it!