eulogious

If you can find a cover, you don't need to replace anything. The holes are in the car for all the pieces you need, they are just not cut into the interior pieces. My 1990 turbo didn't have a cover, so I went to my local PAP, got the mounting hardware (pocket pieces ), cut the holes in the interior panels, installed the mounting hardware, found a cargo cover and installed it! Works great! Took me about 30min to install it. No swapping required You want a real stereo? Checkout what I have done http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111650 This older subes are super easy to install anything you need to into it. Here's a list of what I have installed into my car that I didn't have when I first got it: 1. Intermittent Windows Wiper 2. Cruise Control Steering Wheel Controls and Fixed Cruise Control 3. Paddle Shifters 4. Custom Stereo 5. Map Lights (Custom LED job, but stock ones wire right up) 6. Rear Cargo Cover 7. Rear Cargo Light (I have it, need to install it. Wiring already there...) 8. Remote Start 9. Keyless Entry (Added a door lock switch on the doors as well, hated not having one) 10. Hella 500FF On Front Bumper (turn on with my lights to improve my headlights) 11. Upgraded Alt to a 90amp Maxima Alt (in process of doing this) Some things I still plan on adding: 1. Leather, Heated Outback Seats 2. Roof Rack 3. 4" Lift w/27's 4. More Offroad Lights 5. Carputer (Just need the touch screen) 6. More stuff I am sure I forgot Subaru = Lego's man! If you find it in a similar car, then you can have it too! I have had my Subie for about a year now, and it's still a project for me I have added a bunch of options that it didn't have when I got it. Basically, if you think you need it, you can probably make it work Good luck man, and let me know if I can help you out! PS You should check out Aarons Auto Wrecking in Seattle. They are going out of business and have lots of stuff to get rid of, just an FYI

My money would be riding on the CTS being funky... Good luck with the DMM Let us know what you find out man!

Alrighty, it's been a while, and I have acquired some new things as well as having some things fail So things that failed... My alt went tits up on me when I was up in Seattle, so that was good times. I started getting the faintly glowing christmas tree, and I just hoped that I would be able to make the 75 mile drive home at 1am when I have to work a 7am. That was good times. But the subie didn't fail me! I got home with no issues, and in the morning my voltage started spiking with the RPM's, so my VR is out for sure. So luckily my wife was still up in Seattle and was able to stop by Turbone's place (thanks again man!) and pick up a used, good alt from him and brought it to me. That was sweet! I was able to fix it up and get going again in very little time. I also decided that this was the time to do some much needed upgrades to my charging system, so I got a maxima alt on the way here from GD. I told myself that if the alt failed, just do it right and replace it with a better one. So I am I am also "borrowing" my buddies 50' spool of 0/1awg wire so that I can upgrade the wiring to support the added amps from the new alt. I really can't wait to get this alt in. I am so tired of my lights dimming when I turn on my fog lights, or turn my AC on high So this will be a great upgrade. I really don't understand why they put such a small, dinky alt in. But whateva, that's what the USMB is for Now onto the even more fun upgrades I got my bassCUBE installed, and man I love it! It makes the low end so much more full. It's fantastic! I can also listen to the music at a lower volume, but still have bass! Before I had to turn up my music almost all the way to get some good bass, but not now! Since I can boost it cleanly about 12db, it's get's louder sooner! I love this basscube. It's one of the best purchases that I have made. Don't know why I didn't have one before, but I am pretty sure I am going to have to get one for the wife now as well. She really likes it, and that's saying something. She actually told me to buy her one, she wouldn't give me any crap about it One more thing to get her I also managed to get a RSdC124 sub This sub is sweet! They don't come up on ebay very often, so I managed to talk my buddy into buying a pair and giving one to me Granted I have built a box for his sub as well, and I am installing all of his gear, so it's not like the sub is "free", but either way it's sweet The box is curing ATM, and the sub will be going in tonight when I wake up! On top of that, I also managed to snatch up a line driver as well. Got it for super cheap because the neg touched the pos, and the unit didn't turn on. So after getting it, I found that it had a pico fuse that was blown on the board. So after going to my local electronics wholesaler, I was able to get the line driver to work for about $3 The line driver is cool because it will up the voltage on my RCA's to about 8-9 volts. This allows more dynamic range in the music, and a higher noise ceiling as well. Considering I am using almost all of my 20' of RCA's in my car, I can use all the help I can get with the signal. My line driver will really help with that. And since I have some device daisy chained in or a processor added in, the upped voltage with just mean a cleaner signal, and a cleaner signal means better sounding music. So for the price, I am pretty happy about it. I have yet to install it, that will probably come this week... The last thing that I have managed to get my hands on is a zx500 to match my zx450 This amp is a BEAST! It's rated to do 600x1watts @4ohm, and is 2ohm stable This amp can and should be able to put out 750x1watts @2ohm no problem, which is what I am going to do My new RSdC124 is a DVC 4ohm sub that is rated to handle 600watts, but I know people that run close to 800watts to it all day long with no problems. The subs are under rated for sure! Right now the amp has a distorted right channel and the case is pretty messed up. So it's waiting in line to get repaired as we speak. Then once it's repaired and working like new, it's going to another guy who is going to powder coat it, and then put all the lettering back in place so that it will look brand new when I get it back So I am stoked about this gem as well. This amp is pretty hard to come by, especially for so cheap I love forums! No pics of anything right now, after I get my new sub installed, my line driver in, and the basscube remote installed, I will take some pics of it all and post them up, but for now that's all!

Good job man! Does it run? Is it drivable yet? Looks like you got a good start on everything, keep it up! I will be watching for sure!

Well of course it takes forever to load off of a CD! Same with the gui being choppy. Proper drivers go along ways I got my mac mini to boot from pressing the power button to using the interface and playing music in 1 min and 25 sec. That's fast, no matter what you are running. Keep in mind this is 6 year old hardware that is "obsolete". So on decent HW, it should boot quickly. Of course I am using gentoo, so that makes a difference, but ya. Nghost (the front end) is pretty sweet once you get it going smooth. I am using a better skin as well. Much better looking than the default. I am still working everything out with it, but I got sound going today, so that was the last "big" piece that I needed to get running. Now for all the little stuff. BTW, I am forced to go with either OS X or linux, as my mini is PPC (Power PC) not x86, so I can't run winblows on it, so roadrunner and centrafuse are out for me. They are nice, but I don't want even more pirated software on my computers if I can help it. nghost is super easy to skin as well, so that leaves it open for me to customize it the way I want, and I like that. That and it runs on my favourite OS, gentoo I am going to play around with the GPS program as well and see what I can come up with. I think I have an old skool GPS laying around here I might be able to use with it...

I would imagine just removing the plug would not do it. Windows probably needs to know that the plug is there, and then and only then does it shutdown if it loses 5v on pin 8. That would be my guess. You wouldn't want so subaru junky accidentally bumping the UPS and knocking the comm port loose and not realizing it at his job and shutting down the firewall now would you I don't have a computer that I care to try this on right now, but that would be my guess. The comm port needs to be there inorder for windows to initiate a shutdown. This is just a guess though

Ahhhhh, that makes sense then, and would explain why my 1990 doesn't have it. Thanks for the info man!

You forgot to read one important part man!

I like man! You stole my idea I am going to do the same thing with my car. I am going to remove my ash try and cig liter, and then cut/mold the compartment below it to make so I have one big gapping hole Then I will install a touch screen above the deck, just like yours It looks good man! Now just make your self a nice surround and it will make it all clean Have you messed around with linuxice at all? It's pretty sweet. I have been playing around with it lately... Ever since I saw you do this, I was jealous, so I have been busy as of late with a little project This thread triggered my memory and I remember that I have a G4 mac mini that was sitting in my office plugged in, but turned off. So I decided that instead of it doing nothing, it should be doing something in my car Long story short I got gentoo running on it with nghost (media front end, like road runner) installed and working. It boots to a working computer in 1:25 too And the mini only use 85watts. So it's perfect for a carputer! So ya, thanks for kicking my rump roast into gear with this! Now I just need to find a good deal on a touch screen...

At least you made it! Glad the engine ran good, and you were at least able to fix everything that happened. Last time I had a trailer tire go flat, I drove on it for about 100 miles without noticing It was dark, and I was tired Needless to say, that rim was messed up! It had compressed in on itself about 3-4 inches Once we noticed it, we said, screw and drove the next 50 miles That was good times. Lucky for you, you noticed BEFORE it went flat

Only the turbo's got the 4eat I believe... I just went out and double checked, but I can move my gear selector through the whole range (P down to 2) without the keys in the ignition, or me touching the brake. I don't even have a spot to override it at all, so they must have added it in the later years. There is no evidence that one was ever installed, so it's not like it was ripped out by the previous owner or anything like that. Interesting...

Did they change this for the 3at? My 4eat doens't need to do that. I got a 1990 T-wagon with the 4eat...

The switch is attached to the "wall" right next to the gas pedal. Actually, a little farther back, but it's pretty noticeable. It's a really cheesy way to control it, but it works. When the vents are lined up properly, either on defrost or AC, it press the switch, which then turns on the AC system. The switch just activates the relay I believe. It's only rated for like 3amps, so that tells me that it just powers the relay. Have you tested the relay? I believe it's located on the passenger strut tower in the engine compartment. Test it out as well. You should be able to activate the relay by running power to the appropriate wire. Maybe your relay is going out? My guess is it's one of those two things, since you can get the clutch to come on. Let me know if I can help you out anymore!

What exactly is or isn't working with your AC? I don't really know what your issue is. Is it just not turning on when you press the "AC" button on the dash? There is a micro switch that is located down my the drivers foot well that is pressed by the vents arm when you press the "AC" or "defrost" button on the dash. This is what turns the AC on. Have you found this switch and tested it? Sounds like this switch might be bad. If you can turn the AC on my "hot wiring" it (whatever that entails), then your AC is still good, you just need to find the piece that broke. My guess is it might be the switch. I replaced my micro switch with a relay and switch on the dash. This way I get cold/dry air no matter what vents my ventilation system is set too. Much better. Defrosts my windows better, while still being able to have heat on your legs. MUCH better in the winter. Hope that helps!

Is this the same car that's in your other thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111519 If so, then I would do what I said in my last post there. There is obviously something going on with your car, you need to get a code to see what's going on...*edit* See here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105472&highlight=ecu*+codes I am confused on which thread I should respond to at this point... As for the blue smoke, maybe your PCV valve is going out...

If you are getting the CEL, then you should try to pull the codes off of it. That should give you some indication of what's going on. Have you tried to test the IAC? I would test it to see if it is actually working or not. All you have tried is to "clean" it correct? I would test it and see if it's actually doing anything at all. Sounds like it's not... Have you tested the CTS as well? You should test it with a DMM to make sure it works as well. Pull the codes, test the IAC, and test the CTS. You should be able to search and find out how to do all of these. They are all simple test, so it should take you long to do. Let us know, and good luck!

Is your car a turbo? Is it the 4EAT or the 3AT? the 4EAT is the only AWD auto trans that might fit your car, but more info is needed. If it is the 4EAT, then you can grab one out of a legacy and put it in there, but that requires more work... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108422 Good luck!

Ya, there are two sensors. One for the ECU, and one for the dash. You can bypass the dash one just fine, but the one for the ECU you shouldn't bypass. Just go to a junkyard with your DMM and test out some CTS from the junk yard if new prices are going to kill you. You can replace the sensor several times over with JY ones for the price of a new one. Just make sure you test it before you buy it at the JY

Mine will tick off and on when it get's about a 1/4 quart low on oil. Fill it all the way up, it stops, almost immediately. TOD is a big misnomer!

Nice find! Welcome!

Refer to the link in my first post, presslab was the one that did it. He helped me out TONS with this whole project. I used a program called IDF Pro to disassemble it, but presslab went through and commented the code and what not, so that made it MUCH easier than using my disassembly

The MDF should work. Did you take a look at the tutorial I linked to? He's got some pics of what it looks like if you use the right paint. I was really impressed. Couldn't really tell it was wood when he was done. Blended right into the lexus dash. Might take a couple tries to get it right, but it's only cheap wood and some paint, so it doesn't cost a whole lot if you have to start over. I am on my second one already So that's where I would start, especially if funds are low.

The more I read about this carputer thing, the more I think I am going to do it. Granted I will use the carputer along with a new HU, but the carputer is cool. A netbook will work perfect for this. Has a battery, lots less to charge the battery (60-100w compared to the 400w of a normal computer), and it can run with the inverter off. Since the screens have come down, and netbooks are so cheap now days, I will have to look into this. With my iphone having the ability to create a wifi hotspot, I could also have internet access all the time from my car. Live traffic updates, GPS, movies, tv shows. It would be sweet. Here's the HU I want to get. Allows bluetooth pairing with my iPhone to not only make calls, but stream my music and show wirelessly from my iPhone using bluetooth. Here's a copy/paste from my car audio forums I made about it: It's good stuff and has tons of features, even a video out so you can watch stuff on another screen, not just the HU screen. It's a sweet unit. So having a carputer with that HU would be an awesome combo. But that all costs money :-\ As for stereo gear, have you looked into phoenix gold stuff? You can pick up good used gear for really cheap. I have spent next to nothing on my system, seriously. A $60 investment in an amp has got me over $400 worth of stuff via trades.. It's sweet Even stuff brand new is really cheap. A set of components that will blow alot of stuff out of the water for about $70. A fantastic sub for $120. These prices are shipped too. This stuff is not entry level stuff. It's top of the line gear. Competes head to head with JL. In fact, I would take the 12" RSdc over a JLw6 or w7, because of the price. For a fraction of the price, you get a sub that sounds so close to as good as them it's not even funny Amps you want, I can get you good amps for cheap. A PG ryval 150x4 @4ohms $140 shipped, model V754. Use that in this config. Wire the front normal, 150x2, wire the back 2 sets of speakers in a series for an 8ohm load, and you will get about 75x4 out of it. This is a good amp that will make that power just fine. For your subs, a ryval 1502, 1000x1 RMS @4ohms, more than enough for one sub, great for 2. $145 shipped. These amps are great. They don't look the best, but if you are going to hide them, they won't overheat, and will just power the crap out of your system for as long as you need. This is about as cheap as you are going to get for good gear The amps are entry level stuff, but better than most entry level stuff. And it won't break So you could get a whole system for under $500 or so. Just throwing it out there.

Great read on carputers if you haven't read it yet. Pretty recent too. http://www.techenclave.com/guides-and-tutorials/wd-the-czars-guide-to-carputers-132101.html

I posted in your other thread this info, but thought I would post it, since this is where you are actually going to use this info This is just a copy paste from the other thread... This is good! I like this. Here's a schematic for the above and a explantion: Source So ya I would combine the methods together like so: Wire in a relays with the caps like here: This will create the "on pulse". Then wire up your power inverter relay off the LED like 987687 did, this will keep the power inverter on until the computer shuts off. Then wire in a relay to the ACC on the ignition for the shutdown circuit, so that when you turn off the car, it sends a signal to the carputer to hibernate, and when it does that and the LED turns off, the power inverter turns off. I think that is what you are looking for Turns the carputer on, and then cleanly shuts it down without draining you battery, or your wallet... You might get a second pulse from what I have read, but just set the carputer/windows so that it does nothing when the power button is pushed. You are using the UPS funtion to control the power now, so no need for the power button to do anything, once the carputer is on. At least I think you can do this... (I just verified that this is true...)