eulogious

Your opting for the ea82t?? You might get some flak for that I own an ea82t, and when it pisses all over itself for the last time, that motor is coming out right quick, and it will never go back in. EJ20OHC not powerful enough? Really? That's GOT to have more power than the ea82, or ea81 I would think. The hatch has an ea81 I believe, MUCH better motor than the ea82. I would just rebuild it, but in some better cams, and you will be much happier with it, than the troublesome ea82t. BUT, if you want to go that route, here's some info on the MS with an ea82t... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108882 He got it up and running with very little issues, so it is doable. But I would keep that stock motor in it and just work with it! Now if you want it to be a go-cart and a toy, I would not get the ea82t. That kinda sounds like you want to "bag" on this thing when you say go-cart, and the ea82t will be more trouble than it's worth if that's your plan IMHO. ea82t's don't like abuse at all.

I am feeling nice... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109402 He did it, got pics there too! It's towards the end... Good luck!

Have you checked your radiator for oil? Another sign of a head gasket problem. You get any smell in your car? Stem from under the hood? If it's leaving white stuff, that means it's burning off, so it should make some sort of "smoke" or at least a sign of something happening. Have you tired revving the engine while looking at the turbo to see if anything is pouring out of it? That's what I had to do to determine my leak. Like turbone said, make sure ALL the hose clamps are tight. I was leaking out of a loose hose clamp as well...

x1... EJ swap? I would save up money for an EJ swap if you actually want to keep the car. After lifting, you will want an EJ from what I have heard. So I would start with an EJ, and then suspension. EJ might be expensive, but well worth it. $500 is probably at least half of you EJ costs if you it right and take your time... If you don't want to EJ it, then tune it up!

Good to hear, and glad you got it fixed!

I think he is talking about welding gas shocks. That's a little ****** I will agree. I saw someone else on here do it, but he was a very experienced welder, and he had the work and pics to prove it. Not to bash on you, but I probably wouldn't be trying it if I were you...

Ah, you are thinking of the epicenter, not the cube. The bass cube is a parametric eq, not a "bass restoration device". I don't want to ADD bass, just boost it slightly, which is where the parametric eq comes in. I am not "lacking" any bass at all! When I throw on some Hollywood Undead, my teeth feel like they are going to rattle out of my head! But Metallica's bass drums just don't sound the same as lets say Tool's do, due to the recording itself, not my system. To quote from the article I linked to: The epiccenter, a "bass reproducer", is really a "sub-harmonic synthesizer". It's designed to literally add bass notes to the music that were not there before, because the music industry cut all frequencies below 55hz off all records, and really didn't start allowing all the frequencies into a recording until the media that the recordings were put onto had the space to allow it. So a "sub-harmonic synthesizer" adds that bass below 55hz. This is not what I want at all. I do not need LOWER bass, just LOUDER bass and that is where the bass cube comes in to play. One of the other benefits of the basscube is the 18dB/Oct subsonic filter. This cuts off lower frequencies that the sub can't handle, preventing damage to the sub. With the music I listen too, lot's of classic rock, metal, alternative, some pop, some rap, and when the wife is in the car, country, so I want the ability to boost the low end if it is lacking, especially considering the wide range of music I listen to. And probably the coolest part about the basscube is that the basscube allows you to adjust the frequency that's boosted on the fly, same with the gain, so that I can change the frequency spectrum that is boosted, and the amount of boost applied to that spectrum, all from the comfort of my front seat As for make the sound "muffling" that is caused by some of the lesser quality devices, I will quote the review again: This statement has been said from just about everyone I have talked with about the basscube as well, so it really doesn't do anything to the sound. So that's why I am choosing the basscube over anything else available, because there really isn't anything else that works like the basscube on the market, at least nothing with as many good reviews. It's also made by Phoenix Gold, and all my gear is PG, so it only makes sense to go with it That and I am getting a hell good deal on it, and the guys is letting me make payments on it too! I know you are not bashing me at all , and you do have some very good points, ones I thought of to before I made the decision on the bass cube After researching it and asking on my PG forums about it, there isn't anything available that I can buy today that does that same thing, just as well. If you do know of any, let me know. It's always good to know what else is available And I will end with the funniest emoticon I have seen in a long time: HELLICOPTA, HELLIOPTA, HELLICOPTA!!

Ok, so it's been a while, but I have been doing stuff. Work has been busy lately. I ran two new sets of RCA's for my setup. Since I did that I was able to install my amps the way I wanted to for a while but have been unable to do to the RCA's being too short. So that made me happy. I need to pick up some blue 4awg wire, I am running silver ground wire, because that's all I have for now that will reach, so once I get paid I will pick some of that up. I have also drawn out my stereo surround on some spare mdf, I just need to cut it, and then sand it down. I might do that this week... I traded my wii for a new amp as well that will match my other one, and I have a bass cube that should be coming to me, and hopefully a really nice fuse/distro block should be headed my way here real soon. The basscube should really add some bass to some of my music that is missing bass! Here's a review of the basscube and it explains what it is, if anyone cares Linky I love forums and trading stuff!

That is funny! I honestly did think that I would like having an auto either, but I think that I can live with it now It's just so nice almost having the best of both worlds, an auto for "niceness" and for a DD, but a manual for all the "control" of the gearbox. It's close enough for me to keep the auto!

Nice man! That's sweet, I can't wait to see it in person! :slobber: Very good stuff. This is one heck of a build so far, does it move under it's own power yet?

So the paddle shifters are two momentary on-off switches. To use them, just pull it forward, and it will then automatically spring back to the "rest" position. So you can just flick it and it goes back to default. To activate "Paddle Mode" you pull both shifters towards you. At the same time paddle mode is turned on, the TCU starts to use the "Power" shift maps, and the "Power" light lights up on the dash. This is the indicator that lets you know if you are in paddle mode or not. If you are in paddle mode, it stays lit the whole time. You can do this on the fly, no matter what gear you are in. It figures out what gear you are in, and then keeps it in that gear until a) you shift it up or down, you hit redline, and then it will upshift for you. It will not downshift from what I can tell, which is good, lets me do 2nd gear starts So starting out on a freeway on ramp going up a hill from a stop, I would start out in paddle mode, and then just pull the right shifter to shift up until I hit fourth, and then I would put it back into normal mode and cruise down the free way. If I want to downshift I put it into paddle mode and I then pull the left shifter, and it will downshift for me, to lets say pass. But it will not downshift if the shift will put the car in the redline, so I don't have to worry about accidentally pulling to many times on the paddle and blowing up my car. It's really sweet and intuitive. Presslab's code is really nifty and clever. It's good stuff. What I normally do is this. The on ramp to get up to Seattle from my place is a right hand turn, then going straight for a short distance, then the on ramp lane turns into an off ramp, and you have to get over. Less than a 1/2 mile for sure to get this done, and it's on an incline :-\ Not making this up either. So I start out normally taking the turn, and the trans is usually in 2nd gear by this point, and then you have to floor it in order to get up speed. But you can only take the corner at about 15mph, so you are in 2nd at low speed and you floor it, well the car wants to shift into 1st to get you going quicker. Well this really doesn't get me going quicker, all it does is make a lot of noise for nothing, and then I get a hard shift because the poor thing has 210,000 miles on it It's annoying as all hell. Even with the stock TCU, if you put the shifter down into the "2nd" position, it will still shift into 1st, than 2nd, so there is no way to get around it in the stock configuration. So what I do is take the corner normally, and then coming out of the corner I put it into paddle mode, and then it stays in 2nd and I floor it. Then it's nice and smooth from 2nd to 3rd and then 4th, all with out having to move my hands from the wheel to shift, while at the same time trying to merge into traffic because my lane ends. It's really nice actually. I have hated getting on the freeway with any auto since I moved down here, but now it's all good So then if I am cruising down the freeway and a hill is coming up and I know the car can make it up the hill without downshifting but I know that the TCU will automatically do it when I floor it. So I then activate paddle mode, and it locks it into 4th and uses the "power" shift maps, so it shifts quicker in and out of TC lockup, and also prevents the trans from "wandering" through the gears while driving up a hill, and I can floor it without issues That's really nice for freeway cruising. Especially with the dealer installed cruise because it doesn't turn off the cruise control when I put it into paddle mode, so even the cruise just floors it. It's really nice It's the little things like that that made this mod really cool and worth it. Ya I guess the newer cars have this funtion, but it's sweet to have it in a 1990 car! I hope that explains it a little better

I figured I would give an update since grossgary mentioned it, thanks for the reminder! So I tried moving the paddles around a little to see if it would make a difference, and it did make a difference, but it sucked, so I went back to the original location showed in the pics above. I was impressed with myself that I got it comfortable the first time! So far they are holding up well, and I haven't had any issues. I also haven't really had any time to work on this, I have been involved with other projects. I will say that I really like having the paddle shifters. Merging on to the freeway is better, freeway driving is better, it doesn't shift all crazy when trying to go up hills. I can floor it in any gear with the paddle shifters, so that's awesome, you don't have the stupid downshift you usually get when you floor it in an auto. I find myself using it more and more, but usually just going up hills (it disengages the tc lockup earlier because it uses the power shift maps, so it's better up hills) because I can floor it and not worry about the downshift, and merging because of the same reasons. Also not having any wheel slip is nice as well. I do notice that a lot now that I have driven it for a few thousand miles with the paddle shifters. It's soo much nicer I also got in some more of my caps to finally, hopefully fix my other TCU that had the bad caps. So now I need to order up a chip and a chip burner so I can start working on that. I also need to work on the select monitor thing, but I just haven't really want to look into yet, so I haven't. I still have some ideas for the paddle shifter assembly, but I haven't had the time to research it anymore, and my buddy with the welder has been busy, so it's not like I would be able to do anything right now anyways. But it's still on my mind. I will come up with something better, but for now, this works great! So when I got more info and pics I will post back!

Lesson learned! Glad it didn't fry anything serious, besides you Now you know what happens when you piss your car off. It was just getting back at you for putting it in a sinkhole

Sorry I was merely summarizing and I got it backwards because I have been up for 27 hours straight, my bad. Sorry for cluttering your thread Brian, you won't hear from me again about this, eulogious out!

For the record, yes you are correct. I was summarizing, because I figured the OP already knew about this mod, so no point in running through a mod that he knows about. My TCU is modded, AND I have a switch that is interrupting the circuit, just like you said. If anyone wants any info on this mod, SEARCH FOR IT, its been covered before... Oh, and it's not even the "right" way to do it. The TCU only send a 95% duty cycle to the duty c when it's fully locked "normally", so by adding in the switch, you are applying 100% duty cycle to the solenoid, which WILL fry it over time. The ONLY true "correct" way to do this mod is to modify your TCU firmware, so there for even when it's locked up, the solenoid is only seeing 95% duty cycle just like subaru intended Just wanted to state that for the record

I have read the same thing with the torque converter giving more power on the low end. I plan on wheeling my 4EAT, I just need to replace my CV joint, and then get my lift and tires, which should happen here at some point :-\ That was part of the motivation to try to figure out my paddle shifters, was to get better control of the AWD as well, to make it a better wheeler/toy/DD. The 4EAT is a stout trans, so it should be able to take some abuse! I believe gloyale has wheeled his 4EAT and hasn't had any issues, but I don't know if he modded it in anyway or not... I am curious on what you come up with man! I love my 4EAT, and you can get them for fairly cheap out of a JY, so being able to lock it up into 4wd all the time might make for a fun offroad toy drive terrain in the future...

I gotcha. So since I have not done it, I will just be standing by watching your progress If you need any help from the peanut gallery, you know where to find me If you do it, take some pics! It would be interesting to "see" how it could be done. Good luck man! What's your end goal with this? "True" 4wd with an auto?

What type of auto are we talking about? If it's the 4EAT, then what Austin said. I will just speak a little of the 4EAT here, if it doesn't apply sorry The 4EAT has a MPT (Multi Pressure Transfer) clutch that transfers power to the rear wheels when needed via the duty c solenoid. The duty c solenoid is then controlled by the TCU, which I am sure you knew all this already. So there are a couple of ways that you can lock it up. If you ground the solenoid out, it closes the solenoid, therefore providing as much power as it can via the clutches to the rear wheels. Here's a quote from chux about how the transfer works... So he states it best how it transfers power via the MPT clutch. But there are downsides to grounding out the solenoid. It might wear out quicker, you can damage it by leaving the switch on and burning out the clutches, etc. There is also another route, and that is to modify the actually TCU like I did, and then you can control the MPT clutch to your liking. This way is the "safer" way, because it uses the code developed by subaru to control the MPT clutch, so you are not hurting the MPT clutch at all. Other than those two options, I really don't think that there is a way to "weld" the center diff in an auto, mainly because you can't really "weld" a clutch AFAIK. But really, what do I know I say this of course without ever actually opening a trans myself so there might be a way to do that, but from what I have read in all my research when modding my TCU, there is no way to get a 100/100 all the time out of a 4EAT, it all depends on the condition of the clutches, and even then you won't get 100%, and not all the time... The switch would be the easiest way to accomplish this. You just need to cut into one wire. If you want more info on the switch, let me know. I did it in my car and can give you the location of all the wire and what not. I hope that helps a little

I don't think you need an engine hoist to check you timing, but all things considered, it seems like that issues is not as important :-\ Sucks about your luck. You swapping in a 5 spd then? Let us know how that goes... Good luck dude!

Wasn't there some useful info in here about vacuum hoses getting old and needing to be replace? Did those get deleted too? That was actually good info. I believe it was even stated to look at the vacuum reserve on the passenger strut tower and to check for leaks, and also info about the checkvalve and checking it as well, but I could be wrong, since all the previous post were deleted. I was at least nice about suggesting to search. I really don't see how you helped anyone out by deleting posts that I myself found somewhat useful and somewhat well stated and not horribly rude, but oh well, I guess they apparently weren't deemed useful to others. Oh well, what can one do. I hope the OP found his problem and fixed it. I wasn't trying to be a pain. Simply suggestion to search, and then OFFERING to help if he couldn't find anything after searching I find in no way mean, harmful, or rude. People do need to learn to search even if they are new or old to forums, and sometimes a friendly reminder to do so is all that is needed. To the OP, did you find your problem?

Any decent HU is going to be about that deep, regardless if it has a CD player or not. It's kinda become a standard in the stereo industry. So instead of putting in a CD player, they add bluetooth radios and HD radios and stuff, and all that electronic crap has to fit somewhere, so they put it where the CD player was, since they have to keep it that size anyway. They make them the same size because once you install the kit, you can just buy a better decent radio and not have to worry about wether or not its going to fit, and hassling with a new kit. Keep in mind I did say a decent HU, and I am talking about the ones over $100, even at walmart, not your $20 schmucks special Most still include a CD player because alot of people still have CD's as well. Not as many as a few years ago, but most people don't want to take the time to convert everything to digital. I know several people with HUGE CD collections that haven't gone digital. I have an iphone I use as my ipod, and I have 30,000 mp3's on my computer, so I don't fit into this category, I am just saying there is still a demand for CD's believe it or not.

I see you fixed it. Glad it was an "easy" fix. Granted it wasn't cheap, but it was easy to fix! Don't you wish everything was like a subie

I don't recall where it is in the FSM but it's there, but all the info you need is in the link that grossgary provided above. The XT's had the ea82 as well, so don't think that it's different because it's an XT and doesn't apply. The XT6 on the other hand has a different motor in it, but regular XT's had the same motor...

+1 on the timing... Seems like that's all I have said in the last few days, kinda wierd... When my t-belt was going on my MR2, it did the same thing, because the belt had jumped a couple teeth and need to be replaced. Seemed to idle and drive fine, just a little stumble. Hell I drove it for pizza delivery for 6 months before finally taking it in, so it was very subtle. Good luck dude!

I am just making a surround myself out of two pieces of 3/4" mdf glued together. I had the MDF kicking around, and it's not hard to measure, cut and sand I will paint it a nice, tough black and it will look real nice when I am done. I just don't see the point in paying $15 for a kit, when you can use wood for free No harness here, harnesses are for pussies My car didn't come with a radio at all, just a bunch of cut wires in the dash :-\ Took a while, but I figured out all the wires and wired it in. Granted it's "hacked" in, but you can't see it behind the unit once it's installed, so who cares?!? Granted if the harness was still intact when I got the car, I might have been a little more inclined to buy a harness. But then again, it's a 20 year old car, so who really cares, as long as it doesn't catch on fire