eulogious

I believe you either have to ground a pin or unground a pin on the ecu, but that's all, if you even have to do that. The ECU and TCU are pretty primitive in the EA82's, so there is hardly any "talking" between the two. All the ECU needs to know is if you have an auto or manual, and that is decided by grounding/ungrounding a pin. I will look into my notes here and see if I can find the actual pin you need... Other than the pin (which you may not even need), I think that is it...

I never said it was your fault or you did it!

My point wasn't whether or not he fried something, it was to just be really careful with these old electronics, and that you can fry stuff very easily That's all. Like I said I know nothing about the EJ stuff, but I do know electronics... So I will now shutup and learn something that might help when I go down this road Good luck fixing it man!

Also, I would check all your fusible links and fuses. Something could have blown while you were out playing with it. Also check your grounds as well. If this is the car you got from scott, that wiring was a mess, so you might have accidentally unpluged/loosened some wires in the engine bay as well, so maybe just go out and go over the area where you were working and see if something obvious stands out or that is loose? Sometimes we miss the simple things to try...

I don't know of anything specific that I can tell you since I don't have a swap, but I can tell you this much. Most inputs on any type of circuit will have a limit of the amount of voltage that it can take. So if you connected the wire (I take it it's probably coming off the negative side of the coil?) to the tach input on the ECU, it's possible that you fried the ECU. The coil puts out lots of power, especially if it's just right off the coil AND the input circuit isn't designed for that power, so that *could* have fried something in the ECU. I would tend to lean that way, since it worked before you started messing with it, and now it doesn't... I would also recommend NOT randomly hooking up wires to see what will happen without doing any testing first. Atleast test the wire with a DMM to see what type of signal it's putting out before you willy nilly hook up wires to the ECU. That's the easiest way to create magic smoke from electronic devices. Don't know if that helps you or not, but might give you an idea of what you are up against at this point...

What components? Are you talking about my hacked together 6.5" speaker in one door and 4" speaker in the other, with tweets that are run through my really crappy JBL "xover"? You talkin' about that lovely setup? Well, I don't have any pictures of it, because it's pathetic I blew my other 6.5" speaker I had, and the only other speaker I have kicking around was a 4" jobber, so that got thrown in. Then I picked up the tweets for a good deal. The tweets are actually good PG tweets, just the "xover" is really a joke I had it kicking around so I just used it since I had it, but it works and separates the sounds like it should and raise the sound stage up higher so it's not down on the floor. But other than that, it sucks :-\ If it wasn't for my zx450, it would sound like crap, but the zx450 sounds really good, so it kinda makes up for it. Now if my wife would not have lost her job, then I might actually have a decent set of speakers, but for now all my money has to go towards living :-\ and car repairs, so no new stereo stuff for me for a while. I got some stuff I need to pay off that I will be installing, but after that, nothing new for me It will be interesting to see what you do with a slim sub. There's not a lot of room back there, so it will be good to see what you do. If you are looking to save space, install the amps like I did, it's great! They are out of the way and can be covered up really easily. You can even just keep the lid on the compartment and that would save a bunch of hassle. I just don't care that much...

Well, what did you do? If it was working before you went out there, and now it's not, just undo anything you did while trying to figure out your tach. If you can't remember, then you need to figure out how to diagnose things properly One thing at a time man! That way it's easy to figure out why things don't work if they break! Let us know what you did before it stopped working, and we might be able to help you more

Sounds like fun Scott! Is this the car that we picked up? If it is, glad to see it getting put to use I need to get up there and help you out. You will have a PM coming here shortly... This should be a good build. Haven't seen any subies built up for towing AND dd use....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114465

I can look in my FSM later today, if I remember. I don't know what it says, but I can take a look. I will try to remember to do that here in the next few days...

I really like it so far, it does look better. I am glad that it doesn't have the external fans as well, looks better, and is safer as well. I was noticing that it was really clean as well, so that's awesome for me Thanks for picking out a good one for me I was thinking the same thing about getting a smaller belt. Thanks for verifying how much shorter. I will be replacing that belt here in a little bit. So it's good to know what I need to be looking for Yes you did send me the connector, but I messed it up and broke it trying to remove the connectors that I didn't even need too Oh well, live and learn. So the connector is broke, but I put some new spade connectors on it and smothered it in dielectric grease, so it's good for now. I am going to head to the JY here in the next few days and when I replace the belt, I will add the correct connector. Like I said, live and learn. Thanks for hooking me up with an alt! No problem with the pics, it's the least I can do to try to contribute back This is an awesome upgrade, and I highly recommend it!

Hello all, Reviving the thread to add some useful info that I found out after getting one of the Maxima alts from GD (thanks BTW ). I installed this into my 1990 Loyale Turbo Wagon with A/C. This is the one with the A/C on the outside, and the alt in between the Power Steering pump and the A/C. It's a super tight fit, but it does fit I mean I can't get the belt any tighter because I hit the A/C, but it is just enough tension that it's perfect. It will be better when I buy a new belt for it here coming up soon. But if the belt was any bigger, I might not be able to get the tension it needs, it's that tight of a fit. But, it works great right now! Pics! I had to extend the two wires that plug into the alt because they are located on the side of the alt, not on the back like the stock one is. So they wouldn't fit without a lot of pulling and stretching that isn't good for things. You can see where I added wire to make it fit better. It's just because of the way the alt is mounted that you need to extended it. I also used heat shrink and dielectric grease to prevent corrosion when I did it. I use this method on all my solder connections in the engine compartment. I also added a nice ring terminal I had kicking around, and I managed to stuff both my new cable, and the existing stock into it, so that made it much easier to deal with. The stock ring terminal is too small for the new alt anyways, which was the real reason I decided to use my nice ring terminal for it. I will probably end up putting some shrink on it with some grease as well, but I think I am going to replace the faded old blue wire with some new wire this weekend, so that's why I didn't do it now Here you can see where the wires go in at the side… I also added some 4awg wire that I had laying around so that I wouldn't catch my car on fire So you can see the blue wire(the faded dirty one ) that I added for that… So far it works great! While idling I finally don't have a huge voltage drop when I have all my accessories on, and my radio bumping. It's great! Thanks GD for hooking me up with the alt all ready to go! I would highly recommend any do this swap if your alt fails. Mine failed, so I decided to do it right and get rid of the turd that's the stock one and got a much better one. This was easy enough that there really is no reason not do to it! I hope that helps someone else out! Thanks again GD!

Interesting, learn something new everyday Ya, mine never really held vacuum, maybe that's why? I ended up wiring in a factory vacuum pump to get mine working correctly, haven't had a problem since I wonder if they did remove it because it just caused problems? Like I said, I got 2 units without it, oh well, I have seen stranger things... Thanks for the correct info man!

You sure about that? I have on in a box, and one installed in my car, and no big sphere in my car, or in the box, but it does have the other thing with the wires and mine are the exact same color and look exactly the same as the pic. So unless they changed it in 1990, or subaru happen to have missed installing the big round thing when the original owner had the dealer install the cruise system (I have the original invoice with this on it, and the round thing won't fit in my engine bay with the turbo even if it was included, so it can't be that important if it is part of the system), and the second system I picked up was missing it also, I don't think it has to do with the cruise. Unless I am missing something... I have been known to be wrong in the past...

What, you don't use your cruise offroad? Is it too good for ya? And I agree... The cylinder I don't know what that is though... It's not part of the cruise. I have a whole dealer installed cruise control unit sitting in my garage, and I don't have that. It's been talked about before, but I don't know what it is... But the rest of it is the dealer installed cruise control. If you look up under your dash, by the hood release you will probably find the cruise control brain.

Buy an FSM, it's in there for free! I am assuming you have an ea82? All the electrical diagrams are not online, I have searched and searched to find them but could not. So your best bet would be to find a used set of the FSM's for cheap, that's what's I did... Maybe someone with a scanner could scan it in for you? Good luck man!

Do a search on turbo brake swap, should get lots of hits. The turbo cars came with the rear disc brakes, and they literally just swap on with hardly any modification, at least on an ea82 car, might be different for your wagon, but not terribly. You might need a proportioning valve, something like that. A search should yield you plenty of answers, as its been done tons of times, by many members. I believe you can get everything you need for about $100. The PAP might be cheaper, but every now and again they come up for sale on here as a kit. Just keep an eye out

I believe monstaru was referring to GD and his hate for ea82t's not you (I could be wrong), that's all The turbo's are getting harder and harder to find stuff for, so if it's a big money build, I would probably dump the xt as well. The impreza's are just built for that kinda of thing. Turbone stuck with the ea82t for a while, but eventually swapped in an EJ22T. They are just a limited engine when it comes to mods. If you wanted to drive it everyday, then I wouldn't be telling you do dump it, but since you are looking to build a rally car and don't have a soft spot for the xt, there is no reason to really stick with it. Don't get me wrong, I like my turbo and older subies, but they are not a performance platform, that's for sure!

Yup, I totally missed you on that one I was tired and apparently couldn't read Sorry about that!

Ya, I am making my own stereo surround out of some left over 3/4" MDF. I got it all drawn up, I just need to cut it. Right now mines hacked in there, but that was done by the previous owner. That and I don't want to buy a surround when I can just make one Those are some decent components! They *might* be too deep to install them in the factory place, but you can mount them "outside" the door panel and gain a bunch of room. Just make it flush with the door panel, and get rid of the stupid plastic grill that's built into the door panel. True2Blue did this, but his pics have been removed from his post. So I can't show you what I mean... I have shallow mount speakers right now that work fine, but when I upgrade my components I will probably have to do something like that. You wanna go active eh? Whys that? That Pioneer xover should be fairly decent. I thought about going active as well, but decided against it. Too much work As for the sub, you will probably be sad when you remove the panel and see how much room is not there. I don't even think a shallow mount 10 could fit into the panel. Unless you are good with glass, making a small box is going to be really the only way to get a sub into the subie. The box I made is small, but big enough to run a 12 with 600watts going to it and sound awesome. I hardly lost any room in the back of my car. I just had to rearrange things. When are you going to pick up your subie?

Ahh, I read it wrong, I thought it said "don't", not "didn't" my bad

What do you mean? I did the swap myself, so I know this is the procedure, if that is what you mean? I didn't get super detailed, but that is what I did to get it to work for me... Edit: I can't read, I am an idiot! I read "dont" not "didn't"

I hate the panel. That's how my dealer installed cruise system works, and I hate it. Really annoying to adjust things while trying to keep your eyes on the road. My panel is located where the power mirror controls are supposed to be (I don't have power mirrors). I added the steering wheel controls in and it's much better But that's just me I don't know why you are having problems with your tach signal. The negative side works fine for both my cruise and my remote start. I installed the remote start myself. I just use the same wire, and it's attached to the negative side of the coil. No problems what so ever... Might want to make sure you are getting a signal at all. I just used my test light, and it just flashes rapidly, so I knew I was getting a signal. Glad you got it working though! Cruise control is sweet when you do alot of freeway driving

Nope the DL's didn't get that, same with the Loyales. The Loyale is basically an "updated" GL. They just changed the name. I did get power windows and power locks standard, but that's about it... It's a super easy upgrade. All you need is 2 parts. You need the turn signal/head light switch assembly that was the intermittent wipers (from a gl-10), and then you need the wiper relay. Then all you have to do is remove the steering wheel and swap the signal/headlight assembly, and then plug in the wiper relay. Done. The hardest part was removing the steering wheel because I didn't have a puller. $15 later at Harbor Freight and I was good to go Search for it on here and there are some good post about it. That's all I did If you can find the dealer installed version of the cruise control, it's easy to install. It's what mine came with. The dealer installed version usually doesn't have the steering wheel controls, so I added those in. I also made the system independent of engine vacuum by installing a vacuum pump off of a gl-10 turbo. Works great! I picked up an entire cruise system off of here a little bit ago, so just keep an eye out, you will probably find one Link to my post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105299 I should finish that up... I went all out (I have updates as well I will be posting later today...) and I am still going all out with the stereo stuff I love getting sweet deals Since I don't really plan on offroading my subie that much, I am not worried about the stereo gear. It's my DD, and I need to have music in my DD. I drive up to Seattle every weekend, so that 3 hours of driving a weekend, so I need good music to keep my sanity But if you got any questions, feel free to ask. Here's a link to the one's that I bought. They work great! I actually stole it out of my MR2, so I need to order another one for him... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Falm-x3.htm#photos Since 2 of the LED's are angled, it works perfectly for lighting up your lap, the passengers lap, and also the center console. I added a 3 way switch in so that I can turn on the map lights by pressing the switch up, and then turn on all the lights (dome light, rear light, and map light) by pressing the switch down. It's off when it's in the middle. It's really nice to just flick a switch on your dash to control the lights. I also hooked them up to my keyless entry so when I unlock my car it turns on all the lights in my car. Very nice considering I work graveyards I will go snap some pics here in a min for you. The easiest thing I did was just make note of where the mounting locations are when you remove the mounting hardware from the donor car, and then take off your panels and find those locations. Then start cutting zzz It just comes on with the dome light... I's gots an auto, hence the paddle shifters Now with that said, I am going to add remote start to my MR2 with a 5spd, but not for the remote start feature (I am going to disable that), but for ablity to leave my car running after it's started without the keys in the ignition. I LOVE that about my remote start. I can run back into my house and unlock the door to my house without having to turn off my car if I forgot something. It's nice. That and the remote start is also keyless entry... But I don't recommend the remote start on a 5spd for sure! This is also an easy swap in thing. Since almost all loyales have power door locks, if you find one, just remove all the actuators and rods, and then just install them in your car. The wiring is already there, you just need to plug in the gear. So that will get you 4 out of the 5 doors. The driver door doesn't have a motor by default. So I installed one from another subie. I had to make it work, but it's great. Each actuator cost like $3-5, so it's an easy, cheap upgrade. Here's a link to what I did... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105193 I need to finish that up, These cars are fun to customize in my opinion. If you want something installed into it, it's really easy to do. The dash comes apart easy, it's a simply wired car so it's easy to add your own stuff to it, and subaru doesn't remove any of the wiring for any of the accessories, so if your car doesn't have a certain option that you want, just find it in a donor car and install it! I really like that about these cars, they are just legos! Have fun man, and let me know if I can help out some more!

Nice man! That's a really clean subie! Ahh, you don't have it yet, I think I missed that part in your posts. I was wondering why you were curious about some stuff, like intermittent wipers. I was thinking, why don't you just go look to see if you have them, but you really can't Make sense now