eulogious

My sunroof looks to be fixed! I won't really know until we get some good heavy rain, but the hose couldn't make it leak when I tested it out after fixing it. Wasn't that bad at all to do. Just took my time when removing it all, and then took my time cleaning and prepping for the new sealant. Took me about 5hours total. Would have been faster if I would have remembered to put two bolts in, so I had to partially remove the head liner again to put the bolts the hold the motor assembly to the car back in Oh well, live and learn. The 3M Window Weld is good stuff! It cured in like 20 min. By the time the sunroof was installed again, it was dry to the touch. Thanks GD for recommending that stuff! It should outlast the car So now that that is all fixed up, I am going to work on installing my keyless entry and remote start. Then the stereo!

Ya, that's what I am thinking about doing as well, now that I have had some time to look at the car. I don' think I will use fiberglass to do mine, just plain old mdf. I will probably just cut out a circle of mdf/plywood and put that down on the bottom, paint it, and then just mount my gear to that. I am just going for a "stealth" install with this one. But luckily the spare tire area is huge, so it should fit my 2 amps, BassCUBE, xover, and distro block just fine So out of this list I have fixed everything but getting the A/C recharged and fixing the duty B. The AC I am not too worried about right now, so that will get fixed over the winter, but the duty b is irritating me a little. After dropping the pan and replacing the duty b with a known good one, it still flashes at me Now I have to run down the short and fix it. Oh, well, something else for me to do. I will get to this soon. But I got everything else done! My motor is in great shape and should last a long time with very little problems! So that made me really happy Thanks GD! BUT, I found out another big problem. Granted it's not really mechanical, but still annoying, my sunroof leaks :mad: I really don't like it when people lie to me. I asked if it leaked and I was told no. But it does. Started leaking on my way down to Portland with the heavy rains that we got over the weekend. After doing some research I found this thread over on legacycentral: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=183 It goes through the process to remove the sunroof from the car, and then seal the rail that are in the sunroof pan, as the sealant that Subaru used doesn't hold up over time Here's a quick run down of what needs to happen and quoted from legacycentral: I am going to do this today when I get off work and after my massage. I managed to remove the headliner tonight at work, so that is all ready done, all I have to do is drop to sunroof, reseal it, and then re-install. Took about 45min to take the headliner down, not bad at all. The stuff I am going to use to reseal it, 3M Windo-Weld. This stuff seals fast, and I don't think I will have to worry about anymore leaking after using this stuff Granted it wasn't cheap, but I think it will work just fine I will be finishing up this today, and then I can finally start working on some of the cool things I want to do! I promised myself that I would not start installing anything cool or fun until the car was pretty much fixed up. So once the sunroof is not leaking, I think I will install my remote start and keyless entry I really miss my keyless entry... Speaking of which, here is a diagram that I found that shows the wires to use for the keyless entry and remote start. This is courtesy of legacycentral again I will post back once my sunroof is fixed!

What year is the eg33? Is it ODBI or ODBII? If it's ODB I, then all the TCU will get is the RPM signal from the ECU. But since your trans is a phase II it will have a phase II TCU, so the TCU will be looking for more inputs that it probably won't get. So if you could find a phase I TCU that has 4.44 gearing, that should just plug right up and work just fine, since it will only be looking for the RPM signal to work properly. But I don't know if they even made a phase I 4.44 4EAT, and I don't think there is really any difference mechanically between the phase 1 and the phase II 4EAT beside some upgrades to it for reliability and to handle the added power better, but I believe a phase I TCU should run a phase II trans no problem. But a phase II TCU trying to run with a pre ODBII ECU might not work so well, but I really don't know on that. You would have to look up the differences between the phase I and the phase II 4EAT's and see what sensors were added. Once you figure that out, grab a FSM and look at the diagnostic section for the 4EAT and see what will happen if the TCU does not see the added sensors for the phase II 4EAT. You might be able to fool the TCU with some resistors or something to simulate the sensor so you don't throw a code on the TCU. But I would have to research that a ton before going down that route... Or you could just mod a phase I TCU with the proper final drive ratio (4.44) needed and to calculate the added 2 cylinders for the RPM signal and then you wouldn't have to worry about it Maybe add paddle shifters and a DCCD knob too? Just an idea... It would be freakin' sweet to have paddle shifters behind a eg33 This sounds like a cool project man! I will help with the trans stuff where I can since I do know a little bit about the phase 1 4EAT TCU, but not a lot about the phase II. But I will do what I can!

As long as you use a phase 1 4EAT, all it needs is an RPM signal from the ecu, or whatever, that's it. It just needs that RPM signal. It's basically a completely separate subsystem. That changed with ODBII of course, but the early 4EAT were super simple. You will also need to make sure you get some of the other sensors it needs though as well. Like the TPS, the 2 VSS', those are the two off the top of my head that are important for it to work. This info is not feed from the ECU, it's taken right from the sensor it's self, so just make sure you get the wiring diagrams and make sure all the sensors are hooked up to the TCU. It requires more sensors to work than the 3at because of the computer that the 4EAT has, so some of those things you might not have... Is your car carbed or SPFI? If you don't have SPFI, then you are kinda screwed, you need the TPS. Might be a good time to do the SPFI swap if you motor is carbed... Another thing you are going to have to look out for is to make sure the TCU and the trans match up, same with the rear diff. The 4EAT changed final drive ratio and what not throughout the years and different models it was in, so make sure you grab the TCU and the rear diff from the donor car, that way you know it will work correctly. If they don't all match up, the TCU will be rather sad. You will like the upgrade. They are good trannies. This swap will require a little bit more work, but it is doable. If I was going to do the swap, I would go with an EJ donor, not an EA. So grab an early legacy (90-94) 4EAT trans, the TCU, and the rear diff. Those have the better computer and the better ratio's, and there are slightly different but better things done with the actual trans when compared to the EA version of the 4EAT. Nothing big, but better for reliability. Keep us posted man!

Thanks man! I try to do what I can, and I share what I learn with other so that I might help someone in the future. It's the least I can do considering all the help I have received of this forum! After this weekend, all the fun mods will begin! A 3" lift w/27's, my paddle shifters (although I don't know if I will install the actually shifters just yet, I might just install the DCCD knob to control the AWD for now, and then come up with a better paddle shifter setup this time around, we shall see), and then my stereo The stereo is going to be the most interesting this time for me. I think I am going to put it all in the spare tire area (since my 27" spare won't fit there ), but we shall see. I am really chomping at the bit to install some good tunes... Anyone here have a custom stereo that I could steal ideas from?

Not to state the obvious or be too much of a smartarse, but usually when a code doesn't "clear" its because you haven't fix the problem Here's a good link to Legacy777 site on the ECU: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Good stuff to know, and most likely applies to you, but I am not sure with the EJ20G, so keep that in mind. Code 49 "Use of improper air flow sensor". Get the proper air flow sensor and that code will go away Again, see above. Let us know what happens after testing all the stuff!

Ok, so I managed to fix my door lock problem without having to replace anything After some extensive searching here, I was only able to find one reference to the fix, and that was to a link that was dead. So the actual useful info can't be found, at least on USMB. Here's a link I found referring to the fix: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54202 I found several others that mentioned the fix, but again no details on how to do it. So I am going to copy and paste this info I found on legacycentral: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=40575 wtdash I give you all the credit for finding this info and reposting it I just used a "big" paper clip and it works great! Took about 30min to do 3 doors, including tear down and reassemble of the doors. Pretty easy stuff! I think this info should be added the the USRM, as this is VERY useful info for anyone owning a 90-94 Legacy as this problem seems to be common, but nobody talks about it. Would have saved me a trip to the JY at least. Hope it helps someone else out!

If you replaced the sensor with a good one, then I would test the connections and the circuit itself for shorts or grounds. Was there any corrosion on the sensor connectors when you replaced it? You could even test the sensor you got just to make sure it works, then if it does work, then it is probably a short/ground somewhere in the circuit. It runs crappy because the computer defaults to running the motor "choked" when it can't find the sensor I believe, so that's why it runs rich and like crap.

I managed to fix my locks today The inner door handles were actually broken. One of the spring "retainer" clips for the spring that pulls the handle back broke, causing the lock to spring back to the lock position while operating the handle. Really annoying to have your car lock on you with it running So after replacing the inner door handles on 3 of 4 doors, by door locks now work properly. Don't know why the broke, but at least I figured out why they weren't working. I am not too happy with the parts I got from the JY though... So I am on the lookout for some new ones in better condition! After a few days of driving it, I have come up with a list of stuff I need to do to the car to make it "perfect" 1. Timing Belt 2. Knock Sensor (I am getting a CEL for it ) 3. Duty B Solenoid (The trans started throwing a code for it about a day ago I am just going to pull the one out of my old trans here and just replace the bad one with that one for now) 4. Passenger side axle 5. A/C Recharged 6. Replace all the fluids/new trans/air filter/flush rad? 7. Plugs and wires 8. All belt(s) 9. All hoses? 10. Steam clean the crap out of the engine So ya, I got a CEL and the trans flashing on the same day about 2 days ago. Piss me right the ************ off I tell you what. Not about the codes, just the timing. The Duty B Solenoid is the Torque Converter Lockup solenoid, and it's located in the valve assembly, on the bottom and is accessible by just dropping the pan. Since I want to replace the filter anyways, this should not be hard. In the next couple days I will actually test the solenoid with a DMM to make sure it is actually bad. If it is, I will drop the pan on my T-wagon and remove the solenoid and swap it out with the filter change. From what I have read the knock sensor is a regular maintenance item anyways, so no biggie on that... The passenger axle just has a boot that is torn. No noise out of it, but it should be rebooted or something at least. The A/C blows "cool" but not cold. I will figure this out after everything else gets done with the car. After talking to GD about it, I will probably just try to convert it over to the r134 system found in tht '94's... But we shall see. So this weekend I will be going down to GD's to get his help to get all this work done. It should be fun, and when I am done, I won't have to worry about my car for at least 60K if not longer Slowly but surely I am fixing all the issues my car has! I can't wait until I can install my keyless entry/remote start and my stereo!

Unfortunately I do not know where it would be at, I got a 1990 leggy, so they are different enough that I can't really help you there. I would suspect it's either in the door, or under the dash on the drivers side. But this is purely speculation on my part, so take it for what it's worth That's really strange that the fuse is not blown but it still doesn't work. Did you test the fuse, or does it just look not blown? Not to drive this hard or anything, I am just making sure it is not something simple. If you have a DMM, I would test the fuse to make sure it is all good to rule it out completely... Sometimes they are blown, but don't look it. This has happened to me in the past. Maybe I am just hoping that it's something easy like that for your sake IDK...

Pull the TCU and see what happens. Then you can rule out electrical or mechanical. Since the 4EAT is electronic, something could be messed up with the electronics or harness. Just a thought...

Well, it will plug right in no problem, but having the AWD work is another story One of the things that had to change was the how the AWD was caluculated using the final drive of the car. For my 1990 Legacy TCU, the final drive is 4.11, but for my Loyale Turbo wagon it was 3.7. This was enough to make the awd fail because it thinks one of the sensors is off. This is what happened when I plugged an unmodified Legacy TCU up to my loyale when I was testing my harness splicing. So "I" will have to modify it back to the 4.11 ratio. Technically its one variable that needs to be changed and that variable is the number of tire rotation per min @60mph. So I will figure out what that will be with a final drive of 4.11 and 27" tires so I can get it right on the money. Figured I might as well do that since it's going to get 27" sometime soon But yes, the Paddle Shifters will be going into this real soon, I just want to make it mechanically sound before I go and start modifiying the crap out of it zzz I might not add the shifters right away, but my DCCD knob will be getting installed right quick. I want full control of my AWD I will also have to see what part number my TCU is, since it is a 1990 Legacy wagon, and that is the same TCU that I have modded. So I might have 3 TCU's around that I could mod, hmmm what to do with those guys... For the switches I just went to the JY and figured out how to take them off a car in there, and then I just swapped them out. Once you figure out how they work and are installed, it's super easy to swap them out. Since I replace the switches, it's been working great, no issues The doors on the other hand I do think as to do with them not closing properly. It's doing the same thing my Saturn did when I used a tree and my door as an e-brake while backing up After that my door didn't shut right and the lock didn't work. It was doing the same thing my car is now, and if it is a problem with this year of the Legacy, then it would totally make sense that that is the problem. If readjusting the doors doesn't fix it, then off to the JY I go for new locks... Technically it's just the "LS", the "LSi" didn't come out till 1991, but really it was just a name change so this is all just semantics They changed the name from "LS" to "LSi" in 1991. Same options and what not, just a new name. Got love it when the manufactures are figuring out a new naming schemes Funny that AC seems standard in the states. That's kinda strange for 1990 anyways I love the fact I got all that stuff, and it all works! The nice thing about the legacy's is that they are a dime a dozen, so you can get JY parts for cheap that work great! So I don't mind having all the bells and whistles since parts are somewhat abundant in these parts. Speaking of which... I replaced my power antenna with one out of a 1995 (gen 2 body). It didn't fit right in, but with a little bit of massaging, cutting, and wire splicing I was able to get it to work! Wasn't hard at all to do. And for $8 and the JY, you can't beat that price! For reference if somebody wants to do this, the wire colors are as follows: Gen 1 Gen 2Black BlackRed WhiteBlue Green I just cut the older connector off the broken antenna, and then used it to splice into the new antenna. I effectively made an adapter harness for a Gen 1 to Gen 2 power antenna. I then had to cut a little but of the bracket holding the antenna up because the drain hose location moved for the Gen 2 antenna. No biggie. Other than that it just went right in! It's great finally being able to listen to the radio again. I must say that the radio in this thing isn't all that bad. It's not good, but not that bad considering it's the stock 1990 stereo. I like the fact that there is an "Aux" input on it! And it works! So I can listen to my iphone will driving without anything special. I was impressed by that. Granted it's not staying in there for very long since all my stereo gear is going into it real soon, I still think it's cool that I can use my iphone on the stock stereo in my 1990 Legacy, it's just kinda neat

And that is a good point, if it applied to me The last time I went to chiropractic treatment for anything was about a month before my accident because I threw my back out helping with a motor swap. Before that it's been about six years. They fixed me and I didn't need to go back for 6 years. Most people just continue to go not because they need it, but because it feels good But I am not like most people

My bad... No I probably won't be needing that guy Sorry I didn't get ahold of you, I have had a few things going on since we last spoke To bad it didn't workout, but thanks for offering it up man!

You said you replaced the fuse, is the fuse still good, or did it blow? If you are blowing the fuse when you put it in, then you have a short some where obviously. So I would try looking at the wiring and check to see if there is anything obvious...

Thanks Hopefully alot of my work can be transferred over, I am in the process now of figuring that all out And about Chiropractics... I have always been a results oriented type of guy, and I could care less about how the result was achieved, as long as it was achieved. With that being said, after my first accident I went to my family doctor and then proceeded with physical therapy. After 6 months of no improvement, I decided to try anything, and tried chiropractics out just because I was in so much pain. Well my chiropractors office at the time was located in a building with physical therapy and massage therapy, all in one building. So all of them talked between each other about me and my progress. It was the best treatment I have had, and really only because of the chiropractic side of it. Physical therapy just didn't cut it alone. No offense or anything, but chiropractic care was the only thing that helped me out. Like I said, I don't care how I get better as long as I get better, and I didn't start to get better until I went to the chiropractor, and to me that's more than enough reason to keep getting chiropractic care and to keep recommending it to people Oh, and my Chiropractor does have an MD , so you can't really say he's not a doctor because he is... and his degree didn't come from a website either But this isn't to say that all chiropractors are good ones. I have only gone to ones that friends and family have recommended and gone to before, and I haven't had a bad experience yet! So as long as you play it safe and do your research/homework, chiropractic care is no less safe than seeing your normal doctor.

If it's been clicking, and then it started to do this, that would be my first guess. Replace that guy and see what happens, hopefully that is all it is. If anything you have just replaced something that needed to be fixed anyways

Ahh, that would make total sense with the doors. Would that also be why my locks aren't working really well ? When I shut the door, they tend to lock themselves sometimes, and it would make sense that the doors not closing all the way would cause this. But I replaced the switch anyways, it was missing the boot, and it was all sticky from the electrical tape they put on the door to try to make it stick better They work great now! But we will have to adjust all my doors when I come down, sounds like that will fix up all those "problems" I am really liking Junior now. He's a much better ride and gots more power for sure! When I get the fender and new hood on, he will look even better! We will definitely be using that steam cleaner! I need to go through and seriously deep clean the interior, but its in good shape considering it's age. I really like it. I can't wait to start installing my stereo gear and my paddle shifters, but that will wait until after his tune up. I want everything else to be good before I dive into tearing it all apart and modding the crap out of it All in all, so far I am really happy with my purchase. It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but I think I got a good one for the price I got it for. But only time will tell!

Ya, both my wife and I saw a Chiropractor that monday, and started massage that day as well. I have totaled enough cars to know that it is very important to do that in order to avoid any more serious injury Thanks for the tips, I am going to look into some sort of driving course over the winter. Best way to learn is in bad weather

I found a 1990 Legacy LS AWD Wagon w/ 146,xxx on it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116589 I now have "Mr. Roo, Jr." I am going to be sad not having an "old gen" car anymore (even though my 1990 is the same year as my "old" one ) though. So I guess this is my "good bye" to the old gen section, but I will probably still stick my head in here every once in a while. Thanks all for the help you have given me, and hopefully someday I can join the ranks of the old gen section again. I may gone for now, but I promise you I am not gone for good! Until then, Thanks all!

Continuing with the pics! The engine bay is a little dirty, but it runs like a top! I almost forgot his name! Since my loyale was named "Mr. Roo", I only thought it was appropriate to name the newer one with less miles "Junior", so everyone meet Mr. Roo, Jr! You can call him "Junior" for short That does it for now. I will be installing the hood hopefully this weekend, as well as the fender and the switches! I will post up more when I get more done!

Howdy all! After totaling my 1990 Loyale Turbo Wagon, I picked up a nice 1990 Legacy LS Wagon w/AWD (4EAT), with the help of Turbone (thanks again man, as always!)! It's got 146,xxx on the clock. I am the 3rd owner. It was owned by the girl's grandparents before she got it, and then she got a newer "upgraded" Legacy, so she sold this one ! I have the maintenance records for the last two years. At about 135,xxx they had a compression test done, did a brake job front and rear, and replaced the drivers side axle. At about 100,xxx, one of the Air Ride shocks went out on it, so instead of paying the $600+ or so for 1 new shock, she just replaced them all with "normal" shocks, so all the shocks are new as well and it shows. It's a very nice riding car, especially compared to my Loyale! It's a little bit dirty, but it should clean up super nice with a good wash, wax, and a good going through of the interior. It does have a few cosmetic things I am going to fix on it, but I got SUPER lucky and scored a new hood and a new fender at the JY yesterday that were PERFECT :banana: And it only cost $50! So the drivers side fender is getting replaced with a mint used one, and the hood is also getting replaced with one that only has a few rock chips in it, but NO dents at all! I was super stoked about that. I do need to find a way to either repaint or replacing the bumper coverings on it, but they are not THAT bad. Replacing the fender and the hood will make a world of difference! It also has it quirks on the inside as well, but nothing major. The first thing is the door sensor (the switch that turns the interior light on) on both front doors doesn't workd correctly, so the interior light is always on. Hasn't killed the battery yet But I picked up 2 new switches at the JY yesterday, so that should fix that problem. Then front door locks don't work all that well either, BUT it's not that big of a deal now that I have figured out how to work them. So I will have to tear the doors apart and see whats up with them, but that should not be that big of a deal to fix. Oh, and the power antenna doesn't work, so that will be getting replaced as well. So overall I think I got a great lego that should last me quite a while, provided I don't run this one into a barrier Instead of starting a bunch of different threads, I am just going to update this on with what I do, so I am going to be installing all my stereo gear, as well as fixing all the things that are wrong with it, and installing my paddle shifters So I will be updating this thread often! Ok, so now on to the pics! Here you can see the hood damage, but I don't care since a great hood is going on it real soon! Here's the drivers side fender, someone got into a wreck here, so new fender it is!

Have you check the rear diff fluid? It almost sounds like your rear diff broke or something, especially if you just replaced the trans. I would check that. Maybe a tooth broke off and wedged itself in the teeth of the diff? Also, have you tried putting it up on stands and running it? Then you could tell if the back is moving or not. You should also be able to turn the rear wheels and see if you get anything weird out of that while its up on the stands...

So after talking with my Dad and my grandma, I now have $2500 for a new car! So I got GD looking out for me for a good legacy So I will be getting a legacy for sure This was finally some good news to come my way! So I will be parting out my turbo for sure It does make me sad to get rid of the poor guy, but I just don't have the room It's actually going to be kinda hard to see him go, he was a good car. He did is job and kept my wife and I safe, so what more could I ask for out of the guy? Does kinda bring a tear to my eye to have to part him out, but I just don't have another choice. I already have my MR2 as a project car, I just can't take on another one. I am just thankful that I am still able to write this, and that's all due to Mr. Roo. If someone wants to buy the car whole, that's fine with me. I will be making a thread in the for sale section here shortly... Thanks all for the support and offering to get me on the road. I really needed that right after my accident, so thank you all for showing me that you guys care. It's a great feeling to have so many "strangers" and people I have never met wish me the best, it's a really good feeling, so thank you all for that. Like I said, you all made this hard time for me just a little bit better I haven't taken any more pics yet, but I am going to tomorrow, so I will then post them up. I will also post back with the car I end up getting! Thanks again all!

Wow guys, I can't believe the support I have gotten so far, thanks! You all have made my day a little brighter I really can't believe you guys, that's awesome. I will take some more pics here in a little bit and show the drivers side a little bit better, and try to get some better shots of the suspension damage as well. I really don't want to get rid of my car, but I need to be sensible with the little money that I do have. I also am not car less. I am lucky in the fact that I work graveyards, and my wife works during the day, so we can totally share her car no problem. So I can still get around. I also have my motor cycle and my MR2, so if I really needed a car, I could dump about $250 into a new axle and ball joint and it would be good to go again. But thats more money I don't really have. And then there's the issue of money... My bank, the bank of Mom , will probably only give me money for a new to me car. She won't want me riding around in a "totalled" car. And then even if I were to fix it, my trans is going out, and my motor has 215K on it on top of it being an EA82T, so all those things are going to need replacing at some point here soon, which was all part of my plan and I didn't really mind doing that. But now it's just not really worth all the hassle. I really wish I had more space to store it, I would just keep it and make it a wheeler, but I don't have anywhere I can just dump it and come back to it later. That and I would have to replace the passenger side glass to make sure that the interior wouldn't get ruined and critters living it, so I would still have to shell out money for that. Not to mentioned that I have already had to shell out $500 just to get the car into my garage, so I am already in the hole. I figured I can probably part it out and take it to the JY and at least recoup my money for that. It's makes me really sad to think that way, but I HAVE to be practical. With all the personal troubles I have had in the last few months, I can't be throwing anymore money at a car that won't be my permanent DD It really makes me sad The car really isn't that sentimental to me, it was just a great car that I really liked. It did it's job and save my wife and I, and for that I am eternally gratefully to it. But the timing just sucks rump roast. So when I weigh all my options I am kinda left with no choice but to try to recoup my costs so far and then move on I did learn a lot from this car though, so I am also thankful for that. I just wish things in my life were different and maybe I could keep it around, but I just can't. I will throw up some more pics here shortly, and thanks again guys, your support is overwhelming and mind boggling that you all would just offer stuff up for free to get me back on the road. That is just sooo cool of all of you, thank you so much for the offers, but I would rather see all those good parts live on in another car. I know that at some point if I was to fix it I would be selling it because it just won't make me happy, so that's the main reason why I don't want to take your guys' parts. I would feel bad taking all these donations and then wanting to get rid of it and then selling it and that would not be the right thing to do. Thanks again guys, you all made my day a little brighter, and trust me that's hard to do right now, so thanks!