eulogious

Forgive my ignorance, but that PDF doesn't show anything about a "dual range" for the 4EAT, just the normal 4EAT. So if you could be so kind to point out how it proves that there is a "dual range" 4EAT that would be sweet But I wish I would have had this document about 3 weeks ago :-\ I could not for the life of me locate the gasket that goes on the trans pan when I needed to check my duty B, so I ended up RTVing the pan since the dealer couldn't find one either. Oh well, next time I will call and order up a gasket and do it "right", so thank you very much for the parts list

There's a Different Story Outside USA... Kind Regards. That's fine that that is what is he said, but I would like links to prove this. In fact he didn't even have pictures of this transmission, and no one else chimed in to verify it did exist, so it makes me wonder... I have searched and found nothing. I can say that pigs fly outside my window at night, doesn't mean it actually happens If you have any links to cars that have this transmission, or a PDF that has this information in it, a brochure, anything written down or from a reliable website would be great! I understand that the US is different, but the internet isn't limited to searching within the US. I can't find any mention of this transmission at all, and like I said I spent months and many hours searching the net for info about the 4EAT, and not once have I seen a diagram or a picture, or even mention of a dual range 4EAT, or any dual range automatics for that matter... outside of vehicles that have a transfer case of course This is why I am interested in this transmission. If it does exist, I want to know how it works compared to the 4EAT. So please don't take my response as me being an rump roast, I am really interested in learning more about this dual range 4EAT This is all a little off topic, but to bring it back to the topic, it would be sweet to bring the dual range back, especially in a diesel!

Your dates are a little off on these, and there is no "Central Difflock" in the 4EAT auto trans. The "Central Diff" that you mention is actually called a MPT (Multi Pressure Transfer) clutch, and you can not "lock" it, at least not from the factory. It's not the same as a "Center Diff" in the AWD 5MT trans fround in the RX, it's completely different and controlled completely by the computer with no interaction from the driver. You can "mod" it to essentially create a "Diff Lock", but it can possibly cause more wear on the trans... And they stopped putting the 4EAT into the loyales in 1990, not 1989. Subaru realized that it was the same trans that they put into the legacy and they wanted the legacy to sell better, so they neutered the Loyale and removed the 4EAT option in 1991 and only offered the 4EAT in the legacy from that point on until the introduction of the impreza in 1993, I believe. I got a 1990 Turbo Loyale Wagon w/a 4EAT sitting in my garage right now There is a dual range version of the 4EAT? I really want to see this! I don't think that this is possible to even do, that's why I am asking about it. Auto transmissions are completely different and adding "dual range" to it make it WAY more complicated, complex, and more expensive. That and I have never heard of a dual range 4EAT, and I have done quite a bit of research on the 4EAT, several months in fact while doing my paddle shifters... So if you can find any links to it, that would be sweet! Also what cars was the dual range auto offered in? Here's a good read on the differences between Subaru's AWD: http://www.awdwiki.com/article.html?inc=sub It's got all the info about the different transmissions and options that subaru has had over the years. I just wanted to have the correct information posted, that's all. So if I am wrong, please correct me

The only reason diesel cost more than regular gas is because it's taxed differently. That's it. It's cheaper to buy, but it's more heavily taxed because of the trucking industry. They tax diesel more because the VAST majority of vehicles that use diesel are trucks, and just by nature trucks do more damage to the roads and add more pollution because of the sheer amount of miles driven by truck drivers. So therefore the states will tax diesel more to make up those costs. Also because of state lines and the very nature of truck driving and crossing those state lines, it means that states need to be able to collect money from those trucks running on their roads, and the only way to do that is by taxing the fuel they buy in that state. Normally states just charge a tax on vehicle registration once a year, and that money is suppose to go to the cost of maintaining the roads, but trucks travel though states all the time that they are not registered in, so the only real way to get any money out of those trucks is to tax the fuel they buy, and hence a higher diesel price. I for one would pay more for diesel for the added MPG's you get with the diesel motor, it wouldn't even phase me one bit Also the boxer diesel passes Euro 5 emissions, so I think it should do just fine in the states. California might be the only exception, but when has california not been the exception to just about every rule?

Before doing too much to the car, I would wait until the title is in your hand. It would suck to fix the car up, and then not be able to actually drive it...

Nice score for $100! Can't go wrong with that... They don't make the dual core radiators anymore, at least to my knowledge they don't. But they do make a copper and/or aluminum radiator that is supposed to be better than the NA radiator, but it's still just a single core, but because of the different metals they use in it, it dissipates heat better than the NA radiator. So I wouldn't spend too much time looking for a dual core as they are VERY hard to find now. Just go with the "upgraded" copper/aluminum radiator One thing you didn't mention, is the title clean? Since it was wrecked might be something you want to checkout if you haven't already... Good luck getting it fixed up and running!

To add on this a little, it was a law stating that the manufactures had to have some sort of "active" restraint system in the car, starting in 1990 I believe. Some manufactures decided that the auto belts were the best option (cheaper), and some went with airbags. In 1992 I believe the law was changed to require airbags specifically because the auto belts weren't working as intended since people would just not use the lower lap belt, and that resulted in some bad accidents. So once the law was changed in 1992 Subaru went with airbags. I am kinda starting to like my auto belts. Like Dan said, I can't get a ticket for that now! But I am still on the fence about them. I am hoping they will grow on me with time... I really like your wagon man! Kinda the same look I am going for Good work man!

Ya, I just wanted my amps out of the way of stuff that might need to go in the back. The sub box isn't big and annoying or anything, so it won't take up that much room. Since I have a cargo cover, I am not worried about someone stealing my stuff, it's not out in the open or anything and it's covered up. Now if I had more experience, or any experience, with fiber glass, I would probably look at putting it all in the spare tire well, but I don't, so "simple" it is! I am getting my lift kit this weekend for sure! Then I will be one step closer to lifting my Leggy! Now I just need to find some outback struts for cheap, and then I should have all the major parts needed to lift it, then I just have to find a garage, a friend to help install it, and time

Well my actual sub install isn't going to be fancy or anything, it's staying in the box that it's in. I am not installing the sub into the spare tire area, just the two amps and my signal processors. So I guess it's a "pseudo" stealth install, or something like that

I picked up a legacy, so my post was in the new gen section Picking up a low mileage legacy brought the cost of maintaining my soob done a bunch But thanks! No way could I live without a soobie

I just dumped $650 on normal maintenance items. This included timing belt, all the idlers, water pump, cam and crank seals, all my hoses, all my belts, knock sensor, rebooting an axle, oil change, trans flush, plugs and wires, and swapping out the Duty B solenoid in the trans. I probably forgot something as well. This doesn't include the time I have spent resealing the sunroof and fixing all the interior stuff that was wrong with it as well (several hours, maybe days?). BUT, I don't have to worry about ANYTHING for 60k, so it's well worth it. 60k for me is a little over 2 years, so $650 every two years is fine by me, and I drive a lot WAY cheaper than a car payment This was also paying someone else to show me how to do it all, so next time it will only be about $450 in parts and a good day of my time. Cheapest car I have owned so far when it comes to maintanence!

My sunroof looks to be fixed! I won't really know until we get some good heavy rain, but the hose couldn't make it leak when I tested it out after fixing it. Wasn't that bad at all to do. Just took my time when removing it all, and then took my time cleaning and prepping for the new sealant. Took me about 5hours total. Would have been faster if I would have remembered to put two bolts in, so I had to partially remove the head liner again to put the bolts the hold the motor assembly to the car back in Oh well, live and learn. The 3M Window Weld is good stuff! It cured in like 20 min. By the time the sunroof was installed again, it was dry to the touch. Thanks GD for recommending that stuff! It should outlast the car So now that that is all fixed up, I am going to work on installing my keyless entry and remote start. Then the stereo!

Ya, that's what I am thinking about doing as well, now that I have had some time to look at the car. I don' think I will use fiberglass to do mine, just plain old mdf. I will probably just cut out a circle of mdf/plywood and put that down on the bottom, paint it, and then just mount my gear to that. I am just going for a "stealth" install with this one. But luckily the spare tire area is huge, so it should fit my 2 amps, BassCUBE, xover, and distro block just fine So out of this list I have fixed everything but getting the A/C recharged and fixing the duty B. The AC I am not too worried about right now, so that will get fixed over the winter, but the duty b is irritating me a little. After dropping the pan and replacing the duty b with a known good one, it still flashes at me Now I have to run down the short and fix it. Oh, well, something else for me to do. I will get to this soon. But I got everything else done! My motor is in great shape and should last a long time with very little problems! So that made me really happy Thanks GD! BUT, I found out another big problem. Granted it's not really mechanical, but still annoying, my sunroof leaks :mad: I really don't like it when people lie to me. I asked if it leaked and I was told no. But it does. Started leaking on my way down to Portland with the heavy rains that we got over the weekend. After doing some research I found this thread over on legacycentral: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=183 It goes through the process to remove the sunroof from the car, and then seal the rail that are in the sunroof pan, as the sealant that Subaru used doesn't hold up over time Here's a quick run down of what needs to happen and quoted from legacycentral: I am going to do this today when I get off work and after my massage. I managed to remove the headliner tonight at work, so that is all ready done, all I have to do is drop to sunroof, reseal it, and then re-install. Took about 45min to take the headliner down, not bad at all. The stuff I am going to use to reseal it, 3M Windo-Weld. This stuff seals fast, and I don't think I will have to worry about anymore leaking after using this stuff Granted it wasn't cheap, but I think it will work just fine I will be finishing up this today, and then I can finally start working on some of the cool things I want to do! I promised myself that I would not start installing anything cool or fun until the car was pretty much fixed up. So once the sunroof is not leaking, I think I will install my remote start and keyless entry I really miss my keyless entry... Speaking of which, here is a diagram that I found that shows the wires to use for the keyless entry and remote start. This is courtesy of legacycentral again I will post back once my sunroof is fixed!

What year is the eg33? Is it ODBI or ODBII? If it's ODB I, then all the TCU will get is the RPM signal from the ECU. But since your trans is a phase II it will have a phase II TCU, so the TCU will be looking for more inputs that it probably won't get. So if you could find a phase I TCU that has 4.44 gearing, that should just plug right up and work just fine, since it will only be looking for the RPM signal to work properly. But I don't know if they even made a phase I 4.44 4EAT, and I don't think there is really any difference mechanically between the phase 1 and the phase II 4EAT beside some upgrades to it for reliability and to handle the added power better, but I believe a phase I TCU should run a phase II trans no problem. But a phase II TCU trying to run with a pre ODBII ECU might not work so well, but I really don't know on that. You would have to look up the differences between the phase I and the phase II 4EAT's and see what sensors were added. Once you figure that out, grab a FSM and look at the diagnostic section for the 4EAT and see what will happen if the TCU does not see the added sensors for the phase II 4EAT. You might be able to fool the TCU with some resistors or something to simulate the sensor so you don't throw a code on the TCU. But I would have to research that a ton before going down that route... Or you could just mod a phase I TCU with the proper final drive ratio (4.44) needed and to calculate the added 2 cylinders for the RPM signal and then you wouldn't have to worry about it Maybe add paddle shifters and a DCCD knob too? Just an idea... It would be freakin' sweet to have paddle shifters behind a eg33 This sounds like a cool project man! I will help with the trans stuff where I can since I do know a little bit about the phase 1 4EAT TCU, but not a lot about the phase II. But I will do what I can!

As long as you use a phase 1 4EAT, all it needs is an RPM signal from the ecu, or whatever, that's it. It just needs that RPM signal. It's basically a completely separate subsystem. That changed with ODBII of course, but the early 4EAT were super simple. You will also need to make sure you get some of the other sensors it needs though as well. Like the TPS, the 2 VSS', those are the two off the top of my head that are important for it to work. This info is not feed from the ECU, it's taken right from the sensor it's self, so just make sure you get the wiring diagrams and make sure all the sensors are hooked up to the TCU. It requires more sensors to work than the 3at because of the computer that the 4EAT has, so some of those things you might not have... Is your car carbed or SPFI? If you don't have SPFI, then you are kinda screwed, you need the TPS. Might be a good time to do the SPFI swap if you motor is carbed... Another thing you are going to have to look out for is to make sure the TCU and the trans match up, same with the rear diff. The 4EAT changed final drive ratio and what not throughout the years and different models it was in, so make sure you grab the TCU and the rear diff from the donor car, that way you know it will work correctly. If they don't all match up, the TCU will be rather sad. You will like the upgrade. They are good trannies. This swap will require a little bit more work, but it is doable. If I was going to do the swap, I would go with an EJ donor, not an EA. So grab an early legacy (90-94) 4EAT trans, the TCU, and the rear diff. Those have the better computer and the better ratio's, and there are slightly different but better things done with the actual trans when compared to the EA version of the 4EAT. Nothing big, but better for reliability. Keep us posted man!

Thanks man! I try to do what I can, and I share what I learn with other so that I might help someone in the future. It's the least I can do considering all the help I have received of this forum! After this weekend, all the fun mods will begin! A 3" lift w/27's, my paddle shifters (although I don't know if I will install the actually shifters just yet, I might just install the DCCD knob to control the AWD for now, and then come up with a better paddle shifter setup this time around, we shall see), and then my stereo The stereo is going to be the most interesting this time for me. I think I am going to put it all in the spare tire area (since my 27" spare won't fit there ), but we shall see. I am really chomping at the bit to install some good tunes... Anyone here have a custom stereo that I could steal ideas from?

Not to state the obvious or be too much of a smartarse, but usually when a code doesn't "clear" its because you haven't fix the problem Here's a good link to Legacy777 site on the ECU: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Good stuff to know, and most likely applies to you, but I am not sure with the EJ20G, so keep that in mind. Code 49 "Use of improper air flow sensor". Get the proper air flow sensor and that code will go away Again, see above. Let us know what happens after testing all the stuff!

Ok, so I managed to fix my door lock problem without having to replace anything After some extensive searching here, I was only able to find one reference to the fix, and that was to a link that was dead. So the actual useful info can't be found, at least on USMB. Here's a link I found referring to the fix: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54202 I found several others that mentioned the fix, but again no details on how to do it. So I am going to copy and paste this info I found on legacycentral: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=40575 wtdash I give you all the credit for finding this info and reposting it I just used a "big" paper clip and it works great! Took about 30min to do 3 doors, including tear down and reassemble of the doors. Pretty easy stuff! I think this info should be added the the USRM, as this is VERY useful info for anyone owning a 90-94 Legacy as this problem seems to be common, but nobody talks about it. Would have saved me a trip to the JY at least. Hope it helps someone else out!

If you replaced the sensor with a good one, then I would test the connections and the circuit itself for shorts or grounds. Was there any corrosion on the sensor connectors when you replaced it? You could even test the sensor you got just to make sure it works, then if it does work, then it is probably a short/ground somewhere in the circuit. It runs crappy because the computer defaults to running the motor "choked" when it can't find the sensor I believe, so that's why it runs rich and like crap.

I managed to fix my locks today The inner door handles were actually broken. One of the spring "retainer" clips for the spring that pulls the handle back broke, causing the lock to spring back to the lock position while operating the handle. Really annoying to have your car lock on you with it running So after replacing the inner door handles on 3 of 4 doors, by door locks now work properly. Don't know why the broke, but at least I figured out why they weren't working. I am not too happy with the parts I got from the JY though... So I am on the lookout for some new ones in better condition! After a few days of driving it, I have come up with a list of stuff I need to do to the car to make it "perfect" 1. Timing Belt 2. Knock Sensor (I am getting a CEL for it ) 3. Duty B Solenoid (The trans started throwing a code for it about a day ago I am just going to pull the one out of my old trans here and just replace the bad one with that one for now) 4. Passenger side axle 5. A/C Recharged 6. Replace all the fluids/new trans/air filter/flush rad? 7. Plugs and wires 8. All belt(s) 9. All hoses? 10. Steam clean the crap out of the engine So ya, I got a CEL and the trans flashing on the same day about 2 days ago. Piss me right the ************ off I tell you what. Not about the codes, just the timing. The Duty B Solenoid is the Torque Converter Lockup solenoid, and it's located in the valve assembly, on the bottom and is accessible by just dropping the pan. Since I want to replace the filter anyways, this should not be hard. In the next couple days I will actually test the solenoid with a DMM to make sure it is actually bad. If it is, I will drop the pan on my T-wagon and remove the solenoid and swap it out with the filter change. From what I have read the knock sensor is a regular maintenance item anyways, so no biggie on that... The passenger axle just has a boot that is torn. No noise out of it, but it should be rebooted or something at least. The A/C blows "cool" but not cold. I will figure this out after everything else gets done with the car. After talking to GD about it, I will probably just try to convert it over to the r134 system found in tht '94's... But we shall see. So this weekend I will be going down to GD's to get his help to get all this work done. It should be fun, and when I am done, I won't have to worry about my car for at least 60K if not longer Slowly but surely I am fixing all the issues my car has! I can't wait until I can install my keyless entry/remote start and my stereo!

Unfortunately I do not know where it would be at, I got a 1990 leggy, so they are different enough that I can't really help you there. I would suspect it's either in the door, or under the dash on the drivers side. But this is purely speculation on my part, so take it for what it's worth That's really strange that the fuse is not blown but it still doesn't work. Did you test the fuse, or does it just look not blown? Not to drive this hard or anything, I am just making sure it is not something simple. If you have a DMM, I would test the fuse to make sure it is all good to rule it out completely... Sometimes they are blown, but don't look it. This has happened to me in the past. Maybe I am just hoping that it's something easy like that for your sake IDK...

Pull the TCU and see what happens. Then you can rule out electrical or mechanical. Since the 4EAT is electronic, something could be messed up with the electronics or harness. Just a thought...

Well, it will plug right in no problem, but having the AWD work is another story One of the things that had to change was the how the AWD was caluculated using the final drive of the car. For my 1990 Legacy TCU, the final drive is 4.11, but for my Loyale Turbo wagon it was 3.7. This was enough to make the awd fail because it thinks one of the sensors is off. This is what happened when I plugged an unmodified Legacy TCU up to my loyale when I was testing my harness splicing. So "I" will have to modify it back to the 4.11 ratio. Technically its one variable that needs to be changed and that variable is the number of tire rotation per min @60mph. So I will figure out what that will be with a final drive of 4.11 and 27" tires so I can get it right on the money. Figured I might as well do that since it's going to get 27" sometime soon But yes, the Paddle Shifters will be going into this real soon, I just want to make it mechanically sound before I go and start modifiying the crap out of it zzz I might not add the shifters right away, but my DCCD knob will be getting installed right quick. I want full control of my AWD I will also have to see what part number my TCU is, since it is a 1990 Legacy wagon, and that is the same TCU that I have modded. So I might have 3 TCU's around that I could mod, hmmm what to do with those guys... For the switches I just went to the JY and figured out how to take them off a car in there, and then I just swapped them out. Once you figure out how they work and are installed, it's super easy to swap them out. Since I replace the switches, it's been working great, no issues The doors on the other hand I do think as to do with them not closing properly. It's doing the same thing my Saturn did when I used a tree and my door as an e-brake while backing up After that my door didn't shut right and the lock didn't work. It was doing the same thing my car is now, and if it is a problem with this year of the Legacy, then it would totally make sense that that is the problem. If readjusting the doors doesn't fix it, then off to the JY I go for new locks... Technically it's just the "LS", the "LSi" didn't come out till 1991, but really it was just a name change so this is all just semantics They changed the name from "LS" to "LSi" in 1991. Same options and what not, just a new name. Got love it when the manufactures are figuring out a new naming schemes Funny that AC seems standard in the states. That's kinda strange for 1990 anyways I love the fact I got all that stuff, and it all works! The nice thing about the legacy's is that they are a dime a dozen, so you can get JY parts for cheap that work great! So I don't mind having all the bells and whistles since parts are somewhat abundant in these parts. Speaking of which... I replaced my power antenna with one out of a 1995 (gen 2 body). It didn't fit right in, but with a little bit of massaging, cutting, and wire splicing I was able to get it to work! Wasn't hard at all to do. And for $8 and the JY, you can't beat that price! For reference if somebody wants to do this, the wire colors are as follows: Gen 1 Gen 2Black BlackRed WhiteBlue Green I just cut the older connector off the broken antenna, and then used it to splice into the new antenna. I effectively made an adapter harness for a Gen 1 to Gen 2 power antenna. I then had to cut a little but of the bracket holding the antenna up because the drain hose location moved for the Gen 2 antenna. No biggie. Other than that it just went right in! It's great finally being able to listen to the radio again. I must say that the radio in this thing isn't all that bad. It's not good, but not that bad considering it's the stock 1990 stereo. I like the fact that there is an "Aux" input on it! And it works! So I can listen to my iphone will driving without anything special. I was impressed by that. Granted it's not staying in there for very long since all my stereo gear is going into it real soon, I still think it's cool that I can use my iphone on the stock stereo in my 1990 Legacy, it's just kinda neat

And that is a good point, if it applied to me The last time I went to chiropractic treatment for anything was about a month before my accident because I threw my back out helping with a motor swap. Before that it's been about six years. They fixed me and I didn't need to go back for 6 years. Most people just continue to go not because they need it, but because it feels good But I am not like most people

My bad... No I probably won't be needing that guy Sorry I didn't get ahold of you, I have had a few things going on since we last spoke To bad it didn't workout, but thanks for offering it up man!