BEECHBM69

There is now one less set available in tan....... Thank you for the heads up. I had given up even looking for them anymore. Dan

Somebody used them and said they were no better than the other offerings out there in aftermarket land. I used Surtraks after they took over/ bought out EMPI. I wasn't impressed, but they were the 8003s, not the 9003s, and it was several years ago. Good luck! Dan

DO NOT buy an aftermarket clutch cable. I thought I knew better than the collective and bought aftermarket, I never could get it to operate correctly. Don't do it, you'll be replacing it again with OEM. Dan

Every few years we get a dose of crazy roll through here. The last guy wanted to post romantic stories about his brat all over the place. I forget the one before him. We were overdue. When you amass over 200 posts in less than 10 days, there are some manic issues involved. If you are worried about your family's safety being compromised based on a blurry picture on a very obscure website, you likely have some paranoia issues as well. Good luck to you, and "your buddy." Dan

If it had to do with motorcycle carbs and plumping section intakes, it would appear that person, and all of their content has disappeared. I was wondering how long it would take....... Dan

I have two electric fans wired to relays, and drove the car all winter without realizing the thermo switch was bad. If you're doing "highway miles," you'll be fine to go to the store, or across country. Once you stop, it's an entirely different story. The heater does pull a surprising amount of heat off, as I used it when I got in a situation to know the fans weren't working at a stop light. Dan

AISIN makes a good product. Cast impeller vs stamped. I've used both the EA81 and EA82 versions without issue. Dan

Sooooo........ you'll be selling your collection of Enkeis then? Dan

I've got a wrecked GL in my driveway that I just pulled the entire front end off of. Drivers side is bent all to hell, but passenger side stuff is ok. I think it's an 88. Send me an email if you still have a need. beechbm1969@yahoo.com Dan

And then you asked a question, which we can't answer without that same information...... Dan

I had one, 89 5sp H/L. Gave it away when the timing belt broke because: pre internet. One of the many regrets of my life. Dan

Yup. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nardi-Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Kit-Subaru-Sedan-Brat-Part-4370-95-4701/191014979199?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l9372 Dan

You already know the answer. There is no way to keep the salt from getting in places that you can't get it out, whether you wash it every week, or wash it every day. The metal used in older Japanese cars, particularly from the 80s (not Subaru specific) does not hold up to that type of environment. The way the cars were built with stamped steel layered and spot welded to make a more rigid piece is a prime place for salt to get, and rust to start. There is no way around it. If you bring it up there, and drive it regularly in the salt, it's days will be numbered. Certainly your prerogative, but don't kid yourself into thinking it will end any other way. Dan

You can, but as the video you saw shows, it's a lot more involved. If you don't have a drill press I wouldn't recommend it. Drilling steel wheels is a lot easier and forgiving. D

Drilling 6x5.5 steel wheels to fit 4x140 is by far the easiest thing to do. And allows you to bolt stock wheels back if you every needed to. There are numerous write-ups and videos so I won't go into the minutia. Pug wheels are 4x140, but becoming increasingly difficult to find (hoarders.) Adaptors are pricey, and having hubs modified is pricey if you aren't the one doing it. Good luck! Dan

GD's protests not withstanding these cars are not difficult to work on, and things are often times not as bad as they appear on the surface. You need to methodically check things out and see what really is wrong with it first. Even if it is a head gasket, it's not a car killer. That being said, they are becoming more of a novelty/ toy opposed to a viable only car/daily driver. If you are not doing the work yourself, and don't have something else to drive when things go haywire, then GD's advice is probably good to follow. Don't lose your head and do something silly out of frustration. Nice specimens are worth saving to somebody, even if its not for you. Good luck! Dan

This may have been the thread you were searching for: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/32704-egr-solenoid-valve-broken/ It looks like ski was referencing the anti diesel solenoid. Good luck! Dan

I think I remember somewhere on here where somebody modified a hub tool from a 4wd Ford to work. Might poke around and see if that will work for you. Dan

You said rust. We are all going to say rust. Did I say rust? Everything else is fixable, depending on how much you want to work on it. Good luck! Dan

The hubs are the same. Unless one of them is a turbo the axles should be the same as well. Dan

You'll have to make your own. I just went through this last winter. Don't feel you need to make it all in one piece. That would be practically impossible without some serious bending tools. Think of it as putting a puzzle back together where you have to make all the pieces. Once you start, it will make sense. Good luck! Dan

I ignored the repeated warnings against using an aftermarket clutch cable and bought one anyway because I'm a cheapskate by nature. Routed it right, adjusted it right, and never could get it to work right. Others have had failures, I didn't leave it in long enough for it to get that far. Dan

Save yourself a lot of time and aggravation. Get a OEM clutch cable from the dealership (or online.) 737026033 Aftermarket cables have a history of premature failure, and not working quite right even when new. Dan

Rocker rust is a little different subject than unibody "frame" rust. They still make rockers and wheel arches for EA82s (the rockers can be trimmed and bent to fit an EA81.) There is nothing preformed available for under the car. Cutting something from another car is as much of a PIA as just forming your own pieces and rebuilding it yourself, at least in my experience. A lot of the issue stems from moisture getting between the 5 sheets of tin they spot welded together to make a rigid piece. If I had it to do over again, I would probably have another car shipped out here from Arizona or the like, opposed to spending countless hours trying to save a rust bucket. Good luck! Dan

I always cross reference part numbers from RA as an extra measure of security. If something comes up funky, or I can't find it anywhere else, I bypass it and move on to another brand/ part # I can verify. Dan