BEECHBM69

To put it in perspective, I paid $600 shipped for a brand new, in the box, set of 14" Jackmans to go on a restoration car. If you have the coin to spend on nice wheels, more power to you, but to spend $600 on a set of wheels to go beat on, there are other, cheaper, options. They are worth it, if they are worth it to you. Dan

We can't help who we love, dude. Dan

I've been running 195/70/14s on my EA81 hatch with no issues, and no rubbing. I'm sure I lose something both in acceleration and braking, but it's not enough to be noticeable. They are 24.75 inches. Dan

The bottom link is correct for the dual range. The the 5 spd part of the shifter linkage is the same from 2wd, to 4wd which is why the top lists aren't designated as such. I know it's winter in Michigan, but you should be able to look at what you have from underneath to see where the play is, correlate it to the diagram and get what you need. This thread (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130239-gl-ea82-5spd-shift-linkage-bushing/?hl=%22shift+linkage%22) has a picture at the top showing the pins that will need to be removed to get the linkage apart. Small one first, then the bigger one. Reverse makes it easier to get to if I remember right. My car wasn't rusty, and I had to beat the snot out of it to get it apart after the pins were removed. Good luck! Dan

To back what GD has already said- "Don't." We are truly trying to save you the trouble of doing it twice. I didn't listen the first time either........ Dan

Few of them have our stuff on the shelf, but they all should be able to order it for you, particularly if you have the part number. There are numerous dealerships with online ordering as well. Dan

I run 195/70/14 on my EA81 hatch, no lift, no rubbing. I air down to 16psi, and have yet to get stuck. A 195/60/15 is about a half inch less in diameter, same width (compare here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=195-60r15-195-70r14) I have those on my EA82 wagon, but have never had it on the beach. I can only assume it would perform similarly, even with a slightly shorter sidewall. Dan

I must be sick in the head because I actually learned something about second gear grinding, from a 12 year old thread....... Dan

The Miles Fox video for the EA82 is correct, and it references the three marks in the very beginning. I'm not sure what video you watched, but this one is correct. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZG1p70E4VXc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Dan

One word of caution: You can tear up a lot of stuff with a press. Don't ask me how I know that, or how I know you can still buy control arms from Subaru with the bushings already in them.......... Dan

The 86 and A/C manuals are on their way to me. I do not know the disposition of any of the others at this point. Dan

JDM = Japanese Domestic Market. As to your other query, I'll let the experts chime in on that. Dan

Are you talking about the electric fan on the passenger side? Or the clutch fan on the front of the water pump? Dan

About half way down there were several different lengths of Wildwoods with M10 banjo fittings, and several choices of the inlet end. Neat selection of adaptors and whatnot as well. Dan

I used WRX lines on the front of my 87GL. While doing a search to find out what years I used (98-02 sticks in my mind,) I stumbled across these: https://www.carid.com/subaru-loyale-performance-brake-lines/ I don't recall seeing these when I did my swap a few years ago. Dan

Broken CV, or a stripped hub on the front would be good first places to investigate. Dan

Sorry to be a pest......but I'm willing to be your guinea pig for the EA82 version of this............ Dan

I ordered what I thought/what was supposed to be EMPI's a while back. Surtracks are what came in the blue and red "EMPIRE" box. They lasted about a year. Granted these were for an EA81, but I won't be buying any more for anything I own. You can always TOFTT Dan

My immediate thought was "In pieces." Sorry Dan

The alternator I removed from my 87 EA81 hatch had an internal regulator. I did the Maxima swap with very little effort. Remove the pulley from your old alternator, and grind/cut/sand the spacer to the right depth to make the pulley line back up. Not direct bolt on, but not terribly difficult either. I pulled the harness off the junker car with as much wire as I could reach, and wired that into my old plug so I could go back stock if I ever needed to. If you don't have anything drawing heavy (off road lights, big amp stereo, etc.) you shouldn't have any overloaded wire issues. I've noticed now my voltage stays fairly steady at idle, whereas before it would drop down to 12v or lower with the lights and fan on. Hope that helps add some perspective. Dan

I just did mine and that's what it looked like when I was done. Pulley went back on with no issues. Dan

The wire plugged into the switch is the one that should be connected to the sender. There is a philips screw on the end of the sensor that normally has a ring connector on one end, and a male spade connector on the other. The spade connector is what would go in the female spade with the cover over it. (I'm not near my car right now, the male female part might be backwards, but you should get the gist of what is supposed to be happening.) Dan

Redrill your hubs, then sell the 5 lug stuff to pay for your rims and tires. Dan

If somebody else has been in there it is possible, even likely, they put it back together the easiest way, opposed to the right way. I converted mine to disks a long time ago, so I don't remember how the springs were, but what you have up top looks right to my shade tree eye. Hopefully someone else can give you the definitive answer you need. Dan

This may prove helpful: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/59157-asv-system-elimination/ Dan