BEECHBM69

Tint the windows as dark as the law will allow, and put the 15" Pugs I bought for my hatch on it with some low pro tires :-) I've got the hatch for my off road adventures, and this will be my new daily. Bought it with the understanding the clutch was weak, and the a/c was broke. Adjusted the clutch properly, and all seems to be good there. Found a seized idler for the (removed) a/c belt. Researched the bearing, got the idler back in service, charged the system and......viola! Working a/c! It just keeps getting better :-) Dan

That was helpful. Is this better?

That won't work. They have to be cut at an angle to maintain stock geometry. 15* or 17* degrees comes to mind, but the correct information is all over the forum, complete with pictures. Good luck! Dan

https://www.flickr.com/photos/65262052@N05/14955026757/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/65262052@N05/15138603871/ On edit: Won't let me post pictures direct from my tablet, link to Flickr above. It is as clean as it looks :-) I'm stunned I ended up with a rust free well maintained specimen within driving distance. This is the kind of car I've only read about, and never thought I would own. I am a lucky man :-) Dan

So I'm driving four hours to go get this gem and drag her home......... http://lynchburg.craigslist.org/cto/4634881883.html Wish me luck! Dan

So, I had a sudden no idle situation. Did some research on this fine forum, and discovered the anti diesel solenoid. Pulled it, gutted it (as there is no hope of finding a replacement,) and idle issue resolved. Sort of. Upon putting everything back together, I missed a vacuum hose at the back of the breather. So it went from "no idle" to "poor idle." Again I went to the forum. Some carb cleaner showed me where to look, and viola! I'm back to a perfect running Suby again. I say all of that to say this: Research and exhaust all other avenues before touching an adjustment. If you didn't touch the idle or mixture adjustment in the course if whatever you were doing before it started running differently, that's probably not going to be your issue, and you will only compound matters by adding it to the mix. Thank all of you for the wealth of knowledge contained here in. Without it, there would be far fewer older Subies on the road. Dan

I had to do some searching for my own idle issues recently. Check out this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146958-help-ea81-second-gen-brat-does-not-want-to-idle/?p=1234260 Simple thing to check that seems to get overlooked before people start messing with settings. (Myself included.) Good luck. Dan

Sorry for the necro thread resurrection, but this is my issue. I remember seeing other threads with a resolution ( I suspect by GD,) but I can't seem to put my eyes on them for some reason. Could someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks, Dan

Air, fire, or fuel is the oversimplified version. Probably not air, so that leaves fire and fuel. A sudden "it don't run no mo" can't be but so many things. Fuel pump or coil come to mind. If it was a stumbling slow death, that broadens the possibilities. Dan

^^^^^^^^^^^ This. I bought a coupe with this set up already on it, and liked it so much I put it on my hatch too. One word of advice, if you do a lot of extended highway driving, whatever you put on the back will be resonating through the cab on a wagon or hatch. Be mindful of that before you go nutty on noise :-) Dan

I hauled a hatch shell to the scrapper on my car trailer. Totally stripped of everything useful (anything I could get off, came off, doors, fenders etc.) the shell was very light. I could actually weight the back down, and rock it back on the back jack stands (think wheelie.) Backed the trailer under the front, dropped some 4x4 wood down for some skids, and winched it the rest of the way on. Dan

Just did this a few weeks ago and it was fifty. Could have probably done a little better had I called around, but I needed it "now." Dan

The factory oil pressure gauges are notoriously inaccurate. The first step would be to verify what your oil pressure really is with a mechanical gauge. Could be the gauge, could be the sending unit. Actually having low oil pressure would be indicative of bigger problems obviously. Is the clicking rythmic relative to speed? Or random? CVs is the first thing that comes to mind. Dan

Several threads on the subject, so I'll just put this here. Ordered a set of EMPI 80-5515 for my hatch. They showed up in the same blue and red box as the last set I got three or four years ago. One slight variation: The box says "EMPIRE" not "EMPI." (I found the old boxes with my old axles in the attic for comparison.) Part # on the box is correct. Much to my dismay, the contents are "Surtrack" # 8010. Research says these are Chinese made, but no info on quality. The connecting (middle) shafts are noticeably smaller, but the ends appear to be correct. Two different boot styles on the outside. Insides are the same, though clamped in different spots. I'll fix that before installation. Just an FYI. I'm going to put these on and reboot my old ones for spares in case these are short lived. Dan

This thread will still be here, and I'll try to remember to find it in 2 years. I don't think the sky is falling quite as quickly as you, but time will certainly tell. Dan

Interesting. I am mounting an A pillar gauge pod and wasn't too thrilled with the open edge at the top. I thought about using fiberglass to smooth it all out and make it look right, but this may be a better/ easier option. Thanks, Dan

It says very clearly "if there is no fuse present OR fusing is located beyond 18 inches....." you get no points. I don't know electrical theory, so everything else you say in support of your position seems legit enough to me, and I'm not attmpting to disprove it. I do know English, and this doesn't say what you want it to say. And that's all I said, or will say. Dan

All due respect, I don't agree with your interpretation. From your link: "All system power wires connected to any positive battery post (or terminal) must be fused within 18 inches of wire length from the battery post (terminal) and prior to the power cable's first pass through any sheet metal or other conductive material. The term “wire length” indicates the complete wire, from tip to tip, inclusive of wire inside the fuse holder and battery terminal. If there is no fuse present or the fusing is located beyond 18 inches or 46 centimeters of wire length, or after the power wire passes through sheet metal, the score will be zero." Nowhere does it say one is not required. It simply states it has to be within 18 inches. The other section about batteries: Banks of batteries located within 18 inches of wire length between each other may be evaluated as one battery and the wire between them need not be fused. Factory dual battery systems (usually found on larger diesel powered vehicles) often do not have factory-installed protection between batteries. - Additional protection is not required in these cases, unless the cable between the batteries has been upgraded. I guess everybody should read the information and draw their own conclusions. Mine didn't jive with yours. Dan

Sorry for the necrothread, but I wanted to make sure I exhausted my search options first. The headliner in my hatch is pretty chewed up. I have a pristine example from a hatch I stripped last year, but it's the wrong color (blue.) I was wondering if anybody has painted/ dyed the foam with any success. I could glue some material, but that's not my first choice if I can avoid it. Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Dan

Dodge D50/Mitsubishi Mighty Max trucks from the mid 80s also. Dan

This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Dan

I liked it so much I did the same thing to my hatch with a similarly pleasant result :-) Dan

Looks a lot like Ford engine blue to me. Dan

If the other guy is not interested, I would be. Dan