obk25xt

1900-2200 bux!! That's outrageous in my opinion. All the necessary seals/gaskets/fluids involved should cost at most 250 (ballpark), and I think that's bein a little high estimating. Engine removal/install about 4 hours total. Cleaning/disassembly/reassembly add another 4-ish!? I think I'm being somewhat reasonable/generous with my estimations. Ghat would mean the shop is charging over 200 an hour for labor? Seems very unrealistic to me. May be worth your time to do a little more research on the issue. You could buy 2-3 decent running comparable vehicles for that amount of money! Hope it all works out ok for ya. Spencer

Bringing this one back up to the top, I realize I've been bringing it back periodically just to "show off" boring minor cosmetic improvements. Rest assured there is more in the works! My goal is to have an ultimate loyale at some point. :cool: Up to date my parts pile includes: Complete 5 lug swap (ready to go, just waiting for "the right time") XT6 F/R swaybars (front is installed, rear is waiting on me to install the new bearings in the proper control arms) XT6 5MT crossmember WRX (bugeye I think?) front struts/springs WRX split 5 spokes & 205-55-16 (to big maybe?) potenzas with 80% tread 3.90 VLSD from a 92? legacy turbo sedan And, a complete, running and driving 1991 legacy wagon 5mt with 180,000 on the clock! (for the awd, wiring, & engine or heads/intake) The only thing I lack so far is a 2.5 shortblock. I'm sure when the time comes I will get one at a price I can afford. Oh, and I want some delta's also! I don't normally like to get into the "I'm gonna's," but I am pretty excited about finding this car and building it into a car I've been building in my head for a couple of years now. My parts collection has been growing for much longer than the car has been in my possession. Any thoughts, feedback, or words of motivation are encouraged! Anyhow, back to the "boring minor cosmetic stuff." New (to me) painted amber corner marker lights! Courtesy of Simple Monkey, Thanks again! Spencer [/img] My gf is not so hot on the amber, I'm on the fence, I like em' cause they're different. Lemme know what you think.

Precisely...... Negatory, you'll be fine..... Once you get through all the covers, I'm pretty certain the bolts will present themselves to you. Not 100% clear on this one. The only thing I could imagine preventing access to any of the pan bolts would be the engine crossmember. Once the skid plate is off (providing you still have one) you should be able to access nearly 75% of the pan bolts very easily, the other 25% (the ones closest to the rear of the car) should be able to be reached with a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and a universal joint with an extension?!?! I wouldn't think the bolts would be extremely "worn" as you describe. Be very careful not to over-torque them, they're only threading into aluminum! I believe the torque rating on these bolts is only like 12ft.lbs.? If you have a book it will have a page with the torque values on it. Look it up! If you don't have a book for this car.... Get one!! Hope this helps, Spencer

I skimmed through your post, if it were me, I would do whatever is necessary to get ALL of the cover plastic off. I mean ALL of it, in front of and behind the belts, and re-assemble it with zero covers of any sort. I have done this on several cars now and am happy with the results. Easier to diagnose leaks, easier to change t-belts, easier to inspect "stuff". The only way I would be hesitant doing this would be if the car is lifted and the timing belts could be subject to debris and stuff. Thanks, Spencer

You are in the right place! As if your descriptions have not been enough, I would love to see some pictures of this most glorious vehicle. Good luck and have a wonderful time on this "poor man's restoration!" I am looking forward to it.

Oh geez, seems I have now urinated in the cornflakes of many a professional safety director. Please explain to me the physics in which this accident is "waiting" to happen. Please to all who would like to continue down the path of "this guy is a moron..." Stop and think about the fellowship/comoraderie that is the USMB. Also, take off your "i would never do something like that" hat, unless you are some kind of person in a bubble I would think it fair to assume you have done your fair share of much less intelligent endeavors. Again, thanks for the feedback, I DO aprreciate it, this thread IS meant to be entertaining, and seems to be well on the way! Thanks, Spencer

^^^^ Invest in a nice HI-LIFT!! ^^^^ I appreciate the safety tips fellas. How does one go about joining the USMB safety team? I do own nice jackstands, thanks. When properly used there is little room for error/mishap when your tools/equipment are in good working order. Furthermore, while I was born at night, it wasn't lastnight. Again thanks, and, how do YOU change the front wheel bearing in your wheeler?

If you wanna bite the bullet and buy a nice turbo car consider an Outback XT! Just so happens I have one I would like to sell. Oh, and welcome! Great board and lots of useful info! Learn to SEARCH! It'll save you a ton of waiting for answers!

Ok, I have a related question. I have a flywheel from a 1st gen legacy with an ej22. Also I have one from a non turbo ej25, I believe the car it came from was a 2.5RS coupe. The 2.5 flywheel is heavier. Is there any general rule of thumb when it comes to weights and what model of engine along with what model of car? Hope this question is not too confusing! Thanks, Spencer

10-4, I saw one while I was there, and was wondering if it would hold the carpet up. I would have snagged one too but the last 2-3 times Ive gone in there were just to kill some time and all I brought in was the flat/phillips screwdriver that comes in the factory tool kit! Maybe I'll get one this afternoon.

Couple more updates. Installed some tunes! JVC head unit and MB Quart door speakers. They are 6.5" components up front (crossovers mounted in door pockets), and 6.5" 2-ways in the back doors. Sounds good! Also picked up some "upgrades" from the local pick&pull, deluxe armrest/doorpulls. Modified FWD 5mt console to fit the pushbutton shifter setup. Not necessary by any means, but I think it looks better, which is the important part! :-) Before..... After..... Before..... After.....

Ya man.... Dudn evrbuudy hava cowsh on der porsh?? REAL leather too! It doesn't need any repair, that's just how far it made last year when I put it out after summer was over. Not a bad idea though, AC outside!? You may be on to something! It was supposed to get all the way up to the barn, but somehow or another it didn't get beyond the porch!

Shoulda heard the things my girl was callin me! What kinda hillbilly redneck okie parks his car on the porch to work on it?!?!? HA!!!

Wow, good read and lots of good info! I can't add much besides this... I have an 08 outback 2.5xt limited with a 5mt and it is 4.44 final drive (it's also for sale btw). So, there are USDM subies with a manual trans and 4.44 FD. Hope I'm not putting out info thats not necessary! Thanks, Spencer

When I first started doing engine work I used rtv on everything besides head gaskets.Then about 5-8 years ago a friend of my dad's who is a diesel mechanic by trade asked me why and I said "um..... I dunno?" He went on to explain to me that the gasket itself is what's meant to do the sealing and adding junk to the surfaces usually interferes with the sealing job. He also told me the best way to prevent leaky gaskets is to prep both surfaces very well, clean them and such, dry them, and install the gaskets dry @ proper torques. Since then, that is what I've done on everything I touch and have had NO problems at all. I know everyone has there own way of doing things, and this is just mine. I also believe in using quality gaskets/seals. Some from parts stores and some from the dealer, to me theres no point in doing a superb job mechanically and using inferior products. Thanks, Spencer

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Sure do we were roomies about 10 years ago!

I used a hone (or stone). Same as you would buy for sharpening a knife. It's what is used for prepping mating surfaces in the turbine industry (AMHIK!). Measures something like 6"x2"x1", one side is coarse, and the other is fine. Pull the alignment pins from the heads/block, it will make doing this a lot easier. Use the coarse if you MUST to remove stuck gasket or knock down any nicks/gouges, be sure to end with the fine side before putting it all together. Be sure and use some sort of lube (wd-40 or kroil) and clean all the oils off before assembly, I used brakeclean and clean rags. Be sure to be as even and flat as possible when doing this and use a "wax on wax off" motion or "figure 8" to not make lines, but circles. Hope this helps. Spencer

Thats a good looking coupe! Do you have any plans for it besides drive? I just sold one like that but I'm pretty sure yours is nicer.

Easy maybe yes, it were a proven method I could see trying it again. I don't think you will find anyone who will co-sign the idea. Please don't drive that on the road it's not safe. Someone could get seriously hurt. I have a lifted wagon as well and am all for it, but if your not going to do it right, please don't do it at all.

I've fabbed up a decent amount of stuff. This is my latest craze........ http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=24722 My build thread for my 37 chevy pickup.

Lack of research, poor engineering, disregard for safety.

I've experienced this problem on a couple lifted wagons, I did mess around with the 3 bolts and had little success. What I found both times that helped the most was replacing the inboard bushing on the rear control arms. I've noticed they get worn out and it makes the camber issue. Another thing too that I noticed is when re-assembling after replacing the bushing it's best to tighten everything down besides the bolt going thru the bushing while it's jacked up. Then before tightening the bolt that goes thru the bushing, either pit the tire on and let the car down, or Jack the control arm into normal ride position, otherwise it puts a pretty mean twist on the rubber when the rig is put back down. Hope this makes sense to whoever may need the info. Thanks, spencer

It's only worth as much as someone will pay for it and not a penny more.