obk25xt

Dude, I'm tooling up and should be about setup to build lifts soon. As others have said I also wouldn't give that guy even close to what he's asking.... Purely based on principal. If your interested in maybe figuring something out hit me up with a pm. Wouldn't be instant gratification, but would be alot more cost efficient. Thanks, Spencer

Not trying to threadjack or beat a deadhorse here but, are there any other differences between the ej18/22 heads? Valve sizes/porting, or cam profiles? Just curious if there's some optimum combo of head/cam/gasket to run on a na-ej22. Thanks, Spencer

I would definatly do some sort of security... Especially the way your advertising all the $$ you are dumping into this thing.. I do think it'll be a cool ride when you get done, a little overkill in some areas (my opinion only!), but definatly cool... A 45 on your hip won't do you any good if your nowhere near the guy who just robbed your stuff... This is speaking from experience by the way.. I was taken for about $20000 (yes, twenty thousand dollars) worth of stuff in '08... DONT TRUST ANYONE!!!

I like the second one better too! What editing software did you use?? I used the one that came on my macbook that I bought in 08.. Lemme know whatcha think. Also, wow, looks like some damage buddy! Sorry to see the price your subey has had to pay.

I've ruined 2 rear sets of spiders. AFAIK its from being off camber to the point that you've got one front and one rear tire spinning, then either rocking it back and forth or doin the 1st/reverse shuffle and spinnin them gears like crazy in there. Also, both times I've don that I also suspect h2o had something to do with it, I had a little milkshake each time.

Welcome... What happened to the side of the house in the background!?!?! Looks like something exploded or burnt up right there.. What part of the pnw you from?

Why will they rub offroad? The legacy rear suspension doesn't articulate towards the back like the ea series does. Just curious why you say it will rub because I don't think it will..

Guess I should've been a little clearer, 4wd xt6 rear hubs are more desirable to some people than 2wd ones. And, if it were MY project........

I have bent NONE of the above. And I wheel regularly and use my car to its built capabilities...... That is use, not ABUSE! The only thing beefed on the front is the radius rods are sleeved and lengthened about 1.5", and the control arms are lightly beefed. Everything steering related is 100% stock, ea82, other then lengthened steering shaft. Thanks, Spencer

WOW! Not sure I've ever seen someone do that before! FYI, those xt6 rear hubs you left behind are highly sought after by some enthusiasts. If it were me, I would go back and snatch them up for no other reason then to re-sell them for profit. At very least the rear hubs, but if you've got the $$ Everything from the backing plates to the calipers, hubs and rotors too. Front knuckles, hubs, calipers, rotors, control arms, swaybars. Although front stuff is less difficult to retrofit from ej series...... Mainly rear hubs...... Shoot I'll buy em if ya wanna pick em up!

I would buy at least one.

Thats what I had to do....

i think if you wanna put all that work into that car.... might as well buy a $300 dollar beater car with the low range tranny, lift it, and swap your lego engine into it.... lighter, better approach angles, easier to work on/modify....

I dont have pics sorry (I'll get some!) but!!! 1978 Honda gl1000 (goldwing) bare naked, shorty pipes, small fenders, tiny turn signals, cafe bars, lowered bout 1", murdered out with satin black (primer!), very clean, very loud, very good ride!!!

look at the thread i just started about a month ago, pretty much all this stuff is gone over in there. my $0.02..... don't overcomplicate it, thats my problem with the whole deal.

Correct me if Im wrong, but wouldn't that be cast steel, not cast iron? Also, I agree, sweet idea. I will try this, hopefully sooner than later. I should be picking up a welder soon and some other metal working tools... Time for me to have a fabshop!!

No offense taken, I apologize if my reply sounded a little sideways. When you do get to it though, there are subtle differences in specifics between models, though they will bolt on. 4wd rear springs are longer than 2wd rear springs, the spring perches are higher on 2wd rear shocks than the 4wd ones. I just got done fine tuning the rear suspension on my wheeler after buying and disassembling/mismatching all sorts of shock spring combos. I ended up with 2wd shocks with 4wd springs. You may want to look into finding some front springs off an 87ish accord, mated to 4wd rear shocks, if you want a stiffer ride (I've never tried it on an xt! Just a suggestion). The accord springs were too stiff for offroad IMO but might be great onroad. As for fronts I don't have much experience to share. Happy hunting! Spencer

The reason I had him take material off was to make the flywheel step the same as the xt6. I was very clear when I explained to him what I wanted, was telling him all the numbers and such and he nodded and smiled like he understood. The price was right! Ten bucks! Just goes to show, you get what you pay for! Other than the measurement being off he did a wonderful job, everything is surfaced and even. Just not EXACTLY what I ordered. Oh well, live and learn, on the plus side now I have the ability to adjust pressure plate to flywheel distance based on the amount of shim I install. If there are any millwrights on the board they can appreciate this line of thinking.

aNother thing you could do to gain a little clearance behind the front tires is to cut/lengthen the radius rods. I did this on my car and it helps. Cut them right in the middle, sleeve them with appropriate pipe, and weld em up. You'll have to oblong one of the two holes on the control arm where the radius rod bolts to it, I think I did the frontmost one. Helps with approach angles, increases caster, clearance for tires. If I remember right I made mine like 1.25"-1.5" longer. Thanks, Spencer

Go to the nearest junk yard. Find almost ANY ea82 powered rig. Remove and purchase shocks/struts w/springs from all 4 corners. Go home and replace said items onto said xt. That would be the cheapest way. Spend a few extra bucks and buy new struts/shocks for whatever ea82 car you find springs from, and your car will handle very well. Thanks, Spencer

No it won't, no I don't. He took too much material from the surface the pressure plate mounts to. In essence all I'm doing is putting it back (the material). I'm going to try an install the shims one at a time thru the starter hole, that will lead to some swear words Im sure and possibly removal of the engine, we'll see. Thanks, Spencer

So, the "extra couple thousanths" he was gonna take off ended up being more like 30..... Now my step measures 0.785, I do not recommend doing this!! Everything works but my clutch cable is adjusted almost as tight as it will go and i can only push the pedal down halfway before resistance. I will cut some .030" shimstock into washer shapes and shim the pressure plate out to correct this problem. Car drives fine like this, but it bothers me the small amout of pedal I actually have and the amount of temsion that the pressure plate springs are under. I'll update when I ad shim to the pressure plate, Probly won't be for a week or maybe 2, if anyone sees some reason why i shouldnt shim there please speak up. I've been thinking about it and can't see a reason not to. On another note, I am now running 2wd wagon shocks with 4wd wagon springs in the rear. The only difference i can see in them is the spring perch is in a different spot? They appear to be the same length overall. Basically the spring perch is the same height as the pre-loyale rear shocks adjusted all the way up. I tried the honda spring thing and they were WAY to stiff for my liking. I only had about an inch of uptravel and I dont like that. Thanks, Spencer

So I just went ahead and ordered an xt6 clutch kit from rock auto, $193 for a rhinopac kit. Should be here in a few days. I also took my flywheel into a buddy who works at a tranny shop to have it surfaced and machined to xt6 specs, he may take another couple thousanths off it also we'll see when I go to pick it up. I'll post measurements when I get everything home, and results after I get it all together again. Also going to pick up a vlsd tomorrow woohoo! And another rear disc brake setup.

Now I've searched several parts manufacturer sites and am coming up with the same kit #'s for the xt6 and loyale/gl/gl10 etc. this is getting really confusing. So I'm figuring either the manufacturers I am looking up use the same kit for all applications or the difference is in the .012 of the step in the flywheel. I read in other posts some where that the clamping force is... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94121&highlight=xt6+flywheel+specs ea82-350kg ea82t-400kg xt6-500kg Can that be because of flywheel step difference? I am doing my best to come up with some proof that the xt6 actually uses a different pressure plate. So far all I'm finding is that the only difference is in the flywheel step. Anyone have any solid info on this?

Ok, so I searched again (I guess it could be called re-search!) and found tons of info. Thanks for the reply I try not to ask questions that have already been answered, sometimes I'm a little slow in finding the correct info. Thanks to all who have traveled this path before me to prove that it can be done! I'm thinking... Re-machine ea82 flywheel to xt6 specs, lighten a few lbs. and put an aftermarket ej disc in it. The xt6 pressure plate is what I'm having difficulty finding by itself. Is the difference in clamping force due to the difference in flywheel step? Or is it actually a different pp? Would a turbo pp compare more to an n/a ea82 one or an xt6 one? Does anyone have a part # of the different pressure plates ala carte? (not in a kit!). thanks, Spencer