WoodsWagon

Which leaves the option that the US justy is all subaru :-p If people are having a hard time finding replacement engines for their justies, I think that the suzukie engine would be a well publicized swap. It isn't, so that leads me to think that USDM justies are custom subie.

he want an acid fix for the front end.

If it's blown twice in 7 days, I'd slap who ever fixed it. Any stock motor should take a week of ruthless abuse without breaking. If you turned the boost up and didn't compensate with better fuel, it's your fault.

But a tranny flush has been known to reduce torque bind in a sticky clutch pack, so no worrys mate.

We also want before and after pictures.

The circuitry doesn't need to be complicated at all. The single pole switch would either let the computer controll the solenoid, giving what we can all rate as adequate AWD, or cut it off, letting full hyd. pressure to the clutch pack and splitting the tq. 50/50. You won't be able to bias the power rearward because the clutch pack just takes power from the front and equalizes it with the rear. But with a 50/50 lock, it's the same as a lever shift 4wd car. You no longer have to wait for slipping to begin to engage the rear wheels. A diode isn't neccecary because you are cutting power to the solenoid, so there will be nothing to feed back to the computer. Cut the wire leading to the tranny, splice in a couple of longer lengths, and put a switch in the dash. Now you have selectable AWD to 4wd. The computer most probably won't freak out either, because it will never detect slippage front to rear, therefore never having a reason to change the state of the solenoid. It will be giving the switch a 12v signal, but that is where it will stop. It will never know that the solenoid isn't working. Once someone finds a FSM that tells which wire controlls the C solenoid, it's a 20minute job to put a switch in.

Yeah, the lift blocks tend to topple when you put too much stress on it. Which happens when you say, hit a stump with the wheel. I linked the forward one and the inner one together with a 3/8" piece of steel and remade the blocks out of steel. I made an ear out of 1/16 steel that I welded to the plate to hold the rear outer one aligned. It seems to have worked. I think Scotinbellingham is making a cast 1 piece for the whole area.

Or when the passenger looks at you funny when your waving your left hand around in the middle of the air where the shifter should be!

That location takes a pounding offroad. Lift blocks tend to rip the captured nuts right out of the unibody. Tex made a through boult setup that helped. I just braced the snots out of my lift blocks. If your car isn't lifted, I'd say that you should make a chalk outline of the plate on the car, wire wheel the outline, clean up the plate and weld it in place. All the way round. Then put in through bolts and paint it. You have to unbolt the strut rod from the lower controll arm to install it now, but it's not that big of a deal.

Why not organize a new class for 4wd compacts. You could use tercels and subies and doge colt's. It would kick a lot more arse. It's retarded to reduce a car's ability just so you can fight sentra's and escorts.

Having worked on ford explorers and driven one offroad once, I can say that they suck. The IFS in the front burns up way too much ground clearance, and I just have something against pressed in Ball joints. The way the seats and cab are set up make you bounce all over the place when your going through rough stuff. Without wide tires, the weight of them just sinks them in anything. My 2wd F150 smoked a exploder in the woods. Partly because my driving style uses the trees for improved cornering, but also because the indestructable twin I beam front IFS and 8lug 16" wheels keep everything up out of the mud. With the exploder, it's like dragging a plow though when you try to go in the mud.

bump

The EA82's don't happen to have an inertia switch on the fuel pump circuit? You know, one of thos switches that cuts off power to the pump during and after an accident. It would be part of the fuel pump controller box behind the rear left wheel well i would think. If your's is getting extra sensitive, it would trip and cut fuel pressure under cornering. That's only if the car has one. I know this was a problem on ford bronco/rangers. Just an idea.

Will the rear wiper assembly on a 92 legacy wagon swap into a 95 legacy wagon, or are they too dissimilar? I'm looking to deBrightonize my dad's legacy further. Would the wiring for the wiper be present in the hatch like it is in Loyale's? I know the harness for the cruize controll is present, even though it wasn't equipped.

Seems fairly common on the legacys. I know of 3 that do the same wear pattern. If you swap the tires from the inside of the rims to the outside, you can get more life out of them.

Ah yes.... I had lots of problems with this on both my engine pulls. It seems that corrosion builds up around the locating pins and locks the bellhousing together. Lots of encouragement from a chunk of wood and a BFH help break things loose. Use lots of penetrating oil around the studs at the bottom and the locating pins in the middle. I had to use brass shimstock to make a wedge between the two halfs once I broke them free. I would alternate lifting the engine and pounding the tranny to make the gap widen, then add more shimstock. Once they popped free, I made sure everything was wirewheeld and anti-siezed before I reassembled.

Personally, I'd just make sure all my tires were the same size and drive it till it becomes unbearable. Then just put in a junk yard tranny for 300 bucks.

There's something to be said for a rugged car. Sometimes those crumple zones just crumple too far. Glad no one was seriously injured. Dibs on the rear brake disk setup.

Though there is a postal legacy running round here with a N/A 2.o i think.

Now, I may be completely wrong, but could water in the tranny cause it to freze and lock? It only seems to happen overnight, so it takes some time for it to lock. The delay could be caused by waiting for the ice to freeze. I'd change the tranny oil and mabe put in a majic syncro silencer additive. Nipper: Those back meds must be wild. I was on percs for a week, and those are weak compared to what you must have. Good luck on the surgery!

If it was a manual tranny, Yes, you can convert it to RWD. But then you can NEVER GO BACK to Awd. The manual trannys have a silicone liquid that hardens as it heats up, giving a LSD effect to the center differential. When that fluid overheats enough, it becomes a solid. Permanently. So the car now has a locked center differential. This lets you drive the car in RWD with the front halfshaft removed, but if the front halfshafts are ever replaced, the car will experience major binding on turns. So it's a one way street, with a new tranny needed if he ever wants to go back to AWD.

WJM is putting out round 110 ft/lb at 2.5k rpm, 130ish at 3k. at the wheel. Thats out of a modded EA82T. A modded EJ22 will be putting out a bit more than that. How much I don't know. I guess I'll have to try and see. :-\

It will crank regardless of whether it has a disty or not. Your starter either bit the dust or the wiring went somewhere along the way. Put it in Nuetral with the parking break on, pop the hood, and see if using a small bit of wire between the small spade conector on the starter and the big cable from the battery will crank it. If it will, put the key in the run position and crank it with the jumper wire. It should start.

And you didn't leave a note on the windshield? For shame!

Ah, it's a 2,000cc motor in it, not a 360cc. Looks like it will be a handful to drive. I'd put some wheelie wheels on the back set for instant contact.