WoodsWagon

someone did this.... I think he was in Rhode Island. Had an EA82 wagon, 2.2 turbo, lifted. sold it or parted it. I wanted it bad, that's why I remember.

What have you pulled out with a subie? I pulled my friend's 1995 toyota extrended cab long bed with 31" mudders out of mud up to his doors. It took three hits, but the car dragged it out.

The clutch has its own switch to lock out the starter. It only starts if the pedal is on the floor. Its actually turned into a bad habit, turn the key, punch the pedal to the floor to crank it and go. The nuetral switch doesn't seem to be for safety, its just for the ECU. Not quite sure what it uses it for, but It seems to want it. The CEL is pissing me off, as is the other issues making it run richer n'hell. Will the ECU acecpt it being constantly in ger (wires twisted together), or will it figure it out and throw the CEL back on?

If its a small whine, its ok. If it turns to a menacing growl, get another one.

I fixed my problem. The radiator cap was at fault. It wasn't making the system pressurize, so therefore it always boiled at 212. Normal op temp on must engines is round 200-210, so right on the verge of boiling. The boilinf temp rises 3 degs for ever PSI, so a 15 lb. cap takes the boil over temp up to 255ish. It doesn't boil over any more w/ the new cap. Yay!

I should go and find out if the switch closes in gear or closes in nuetral, then wire it to be in gear. Or mabe wire it to an extra switch on the clutch. It already has the clutch interlock switch. The tranny came out of a carbedcar, so It doesn't have any of this sensor crud on it.

bothe the engines/trannys that I've separated were held together by corrosion on the dowel pins and bottom studs. It took shim stock being slipped in as I pried, jacked and hit the tranny with a 2x4 to slowly work the bellhousing apart. I paint everything except the clutch with anti-seize when I put them back together. These were both engine/tranny combos that had been together for 140k+ miles in salted NE.

Insurance companies opinion? Definiately totaled. My opinion? The rocker panel is dented but not bent. the alignment should be still good. the B pilar looks bad, but some sledge hammer work at the bottom might straighten it out enough for a replacement door to work. Hey, it'll never be as pretty, but it should drive the same. Glad your OK.

My 1992 loyale had a nuetral switch on its 5spd tranny. The dual range I swapped in out of a 1986 didn't. The spfi computer is now complaining of Code 51, which pertains to the switch. It seems that I can't swap the switch in because the hole for it was never drilled and tapped on the tranny. What should I do?

Nice to see this post on the night I break my exhaust stud and removed the threads from the other. 2 bolts is plenty to hold the Y pipe on per side. The gasket is set up for a 2 bolt layout as well. I would flip the flanges, but some punk welded the flanges to the pipe at about 1/3 of the circumference, and did a ************y job of it too. I'm going to cut the y pipe, turn each end 90 degrees, and weld it back together. Not having to bother with tapping and helicoiling the origional bolt holes is nice. As a side note, the EA82's under no load with no y pipe sound cool. put a load on it though, run for cover!

What are other people getting for milage? remember to multiply your odometer's reading by the % that your tires make you read under. I'm getting about 22-25 depending on the abuse. That's with a manual tranny and an EA82 SPFI. and 30" mud tires.

I ran some radiator stop leak to stop a bad coolant burning leak i had, and I think it may be coming back to bite me. The car runs about 1/2 or a bit higher on the gauge, and doesn't boil over when running, but if you shut it off and wait 30 seconds, you can hear the coolant boiling in the block and the overflow tank. it boils hard enough to blow coolant out of the overflow tank. The heater core isn't plugged, and I use it to keep the temp under controll off-road. Every part of the cooling system seems to get hot, so I don't think anything is plugged. The only problem I can see is that the electric fan doesn't kick on untill its boiling.

Kostamojen: I thought we were talking front sway bars? rear swaybars are a different issue. lots of cars don't have them.

Even if you aren't driving like a madman on the streets, not having the swaybar can make the car hard to handle in an emergency. say your dodging a bicyclist in the road, but the car leans over to far and you can't make the dodge. Then you get investigated for the cause of the accident, no swaybar, and you get charged with manslaughter. Worst case scenario, but I've driven a jeep with no swaybars, and that sucker would go way over in the corners, to the point a jerk of the wheel would roll it.

Well, it turned out to be an ok weekend. The weather was great and the backroads were a nice mix of compacted and loose dirt. I had the rotor break loose under my dizzy cap, that made for some fun. The set screw landed in the bottom, so we were able to pin it back down. Other than some overheating problems in my car and the oil habit in Konrad's, the cars did great. going up the toll road was fun, and Konrad's legacy still has a good bit of power left. cruixing the backroads was great, the map I had sucked, so we were kinda lost most of the time, but found neat places in the middle of nowhere. subie94, were you the bearded one driving the legacy with fog lights and a "preformance" exhaust? Hopefully konrad will put up the pictures he got, some of them were decent. My wagon rocked on I-91. I'm still amazed the engine held up. I was floored in 4th or 5th the whole way, and the spedo maxed out at 75... with 30" tires on. The mud terrains are dam loud at any speed over 30mph. one of the exhaust manifold gaskets blew in a keep up game with a jetta, so the car sounds bad now. Anyways, it seemed like it would suck at first with hardly anyone showing up, but I had a good time. Sorry we missed you subie94, mabe next time.

Yeah, I got the answering machine message too. Seems odd for a weekend after labor day. There's other campgrounds in the area, they were listed on the http://www.kingdomtrails.comor org website link earlier in the thread. My wagon is rolling again, and I'll be leaving 4ish tommorow afternoon. Sounds like most people have bailed on this trip. Oh well, I'm heading up anyways. The mountain biking and hiking is not to be missed. I may end up parking the car some where and being labeled a "vagrent" he he. konrad/soo, if your still going, hows 4:30 in the stop & shop parking lot in peterbourough sound?

Head up to East Burke on 91 north, take exit 23 and follow route 5 to route 114 north. there is a dam and river on the left, with a bike shop right after it. My wagon is up on jackstands (friggin tree stumps), but It best be rolling by tomorrow.

you could consider replacing the bolts at the swaybar link with removable pins.

Thanks. When you drill through the body, where do the holes come out in the interior?

1992 loyale 4wd, 4/4 PK lift to start with. I bent the left hand radius rod to about a 30 degree angle, and worst, bent the body where each of the lift blocks hold the tranny mount/ radius rod plate. I have a spare radius rod, but the bent nuts and the unibody surrounding them concerns me more. I'm going to fabricate a bridge between the two inboard blocks, and I'll see about using extra plating to reinforce the body from the outside. Has this hapened to other people and how did they fix it?

Thanks. I'll see about running some ground straps from the negative clamp to the body instead of the block. From what chef tim said, it seems to be fairly common. I'm reluctant to run a relay, because the pump controller has a timer in it to make sure the pump isn't running with the engine stalled, which i like for safety's sake. Nothing like fuel being pumped over an already flaming engine.

I would advise against going above 28" tires. With a 4" lift and 30"s on my wagon, I had to go nuts with the sledge hammer on the rear of the front wheel well. It's not good for the structure of the car to smash it in that far. Make a disconecting pin to replace the bolts that hold the front sway bar to the controll arms, and weld the rear and get good at swapping the rear axel on and off. If you want to keep up with a family of jeeps, that will help a lot.

I'm going, it looks like Konrad/soo is going, I chance met him today in a parking lot. Moosens, I'll throw in $20 bucks for gas if you need it, just to meet you. I'm heading up friday afternoon.

Every trip I make in my loyale is one chance closer to the dead by the side of the road time. My fuel pump is complaining loudy and wants to die, but I still need the car to get parts. The other day, the pump was louder than the engine at idle, and its been losing power daily. You can feel the engine lose power half way up hills as the pressure drops in the injection system. It's a bad scene and I think its contributing to my 19mpg gas problem. I'm tempted to go the route of the ford truck pump, but I'm worried about the 90psi in the 31-41psi spfi system. I'm not sure the regulator can dump that much. MorganM seems to be running it without problem, but I dunno. It would help when I do my future EJ22 swap, because the MPFI system wants 60-70psi. Used fuel pumps seem rare round here, the nearest one seems to be goffstown, NH which is a ways away. I'll have to make the descision soon or I'll be left by the side of the road.

I'm sorry, but I'm not going to say this again. Man up and use the frickin hammer! Its not the end of the world, you can't get enough of a swing to shatter the aluminum, and it will shift by degrees.