WoodsWagon

Mud isn't hard to clean off. 15 minutes with the garden hose and your good to go home and not get yelled at. Muddy water is the best, like a stagnant pond. the moses parting the waters effect is worth it. The only drawback to mud is that you screw up wetlands. But if the mudhole is in a former rock mining pit, nobody really should care.

could be the intake gaskets, even easier and cheaper. when they pop, it'll dump coolant down the throat and smoke like a blown headgasket. Do a compression test first. I had onw of the intake gaskets let go, and instead of fixing it, I just poured in the stop leak junk. Yes it was bad, no I don't care, and 1k miles later it is still holding.

OBD 1 is what the 1990 legacy runs for engine management, AKA the computer system. It is a non standardized system, unique to that subaru and model, as all computers by subaru were up to that point. you have to connect wires under the dash to get the Ceck Engine Light (CEL or MIL, malfunction indicator light) to flash you a numeric code. OBD2 is a standardized, to a point, system. Most cars after 1995 are OBD2. there is a standard connector on the drivers side of the dash connector that any OBD2 scan tool can be pluged into. How many codes you are able to acess is up to the OEM and the scan tool manufacturer. Most of the P codes, or powertrain codes are acessable. The intake manifold may be able to be swapped over to the new block, but depending of the port layout of the heads, you may not be able to. The exhaust ports chaned in 1995. the earlier EJ22's had dual exhaust ports feeding the Y pipe headers. Post-95 EJ22's had single port headers. a bit of cutting, flaring and welding may let you adapt the headers.

Penetrating oil on out side only. apply it to the slotted holes and the collar around the disty stem. The electronics are pretty hardy, so as long as you aren't pounding straight at the cap or body it should be fine. Just whack on the tabs in such a way the force rotates the disty. I did it and my car still runs.

My battery is good, new and putting out 12.6-.8 volts at rest. The charging system takes it up to a steady 14.5v. What I'm wondering is if the feed to the fuse box is bad and all the chassis electrics are starving for current. Turning on loads doesn't draw down the battery voltage, but the voltage at the fuse box is a tad lower, 14.2v. the headlights aren't dim or anything either, and I just moved the engine/tranny ground straps to new, good locations. In my opinion, a small load like a turn signal shouldn't affect any of the other circuits on the car. The pump may be well on its way out though, and I just replaced the filter to solve a high load loss of power issue I was having.

I think your being shunned because you mentioned using a honda civic engine. But really, I think the mid 90's civic motors a good, specialy the B16's and D16z6's Both have VTEC and a fair bit of punch.

Same problem with my disty. I found that persistant whacking with a 2lb hammer on the tabs broke it loose enough to turn a bit. I found the best way to get a hit at it was from beneath, reaching up with the hammer to whack it. Use lots of penetrating oil.

My fuel pump on my SPFI Ea82 is really loud, always has been. With the carpet and interior stripped out of the back, I can hear it really well while driving. My problem is, I can hear it whine in tune with the turn signal. I didn't think that the load of the turn signal would be high enough to interupt the power to the pump. I'm almost wondering if I have a bad connection to the fuse block, because I have noticed that I can dim the overhead light to the beat of the radio when its cranked up. What are your thoughts?

My wagon is going and up to it. See y'all there.

It Passed! worked like a charm. The guy laughed and said that now I could go home and throw the illegal tires on. I put 200 miles on the car in the 10 day grace period and another 50 on it today. I also took it booning and found out just how bad I need the Low Range tranny. Fair bit of smoked clutch getting out of a valley. The nice part of having a unique car in this area is the amount of thumbs up I've been geting from other drivers and pedestrians.

Using a junk yard scrounged 2.2l would be the easiest.

The car is probably repairable yourself. If you can swap rims, you can swap a hatch. The latch and striker will probably need to be adjusted to catch again, and a J/Y bumper will help with future colisions. check the rear right door for ease of closing. Drill small holes into the dent under the taillight and use sheet metal screws and a slidehammer to pull the dent. It will look horrible at first, but some bondo can smooth it out enough. The minor advantage to having a damaged car is that you don't have to be as careful with it any more. Talk with the insurance adjuster about the cash value of the car. My mom was rear ended in her Ford Taurus, and the car was totaled. The insurance company paid her 1,400 for the car, with a $75 buyback price. They would have raised the buyback price more if she had argued for a higher payout. I did the repair work, and got paid $200. She now has 1100 for her next car saved and the car is still on the road. Body shops will do a better job repairing the cosmetics of the car, but if that isn't the utmost importance, then using bondo and a hammer can get the car looking reasonabley good.

The alldata setup, full shop type mind you, is good for reference and other information. It does not seem to be all that much better than a chiltons or haynes manual for the price. Major public libraries have real chiltons books that cover "import cars, 1988-1992" and whatnot that are more technical but have less detail. Alldata is convienient, but it doesn't offer much a book wouldn't give you.

A cable shift setup would be easiest, thats what the vacuum actuator moves to shift the tranny. take a look under the car, the actuator is on the left of the tranny with a cable leading to the right of the tranny.

No emissions yet thank god. THe only "emissions" style thing is that the check engine light can't be on. Unfortunately, the wagon is classified as a passenger vehicle, so the bumpers can only be 20" off the ground. Trucks are alowed 30" With the stock tires on and a few cinder blocks in the back, I will be able to pull off 20" With the mud tires on, I'm at 24 inches at the bumper.

The diamond plate surface pattern is a right angled piece of plastic that is glued down with the body sealer goop that they use around the taillights. use a hair dryer to heat up the whole thing, not melting the plastic by the way, and then gently pry off the tread piece. Under that is 2 10mm bolts that hold the block on. Then just reverse the steps to get it into your car.

Thats great that the engine is listed as one part. Congrats on passing inspection, I have yet to accomplish that.

My 4" lifted wagon is putting most of the local inspection stations in fear. Four of them refused to consider inspecting it, reasons ranging from I can't take the liability too, "you totally modified the frame, its not safe anymore." I found one guy willing to give it a look and he called up the state for some clarification. The state gave him the "connecting you to another department" runaround for half an hour before telling him it was legal as long as the bumpers didn't excede 20" off the ground. Which they are at with the stock tires on. He plans to give the car a full inspection wednesday and hopefully it will pass. I didn't reallize I'd get this much B.S. from inspection stations, I mean there's loads of lifted trucks kicking around with stickers on them. It almost seems this is the first lifted passenger car that the state of New Hampshire has seen. Anyone else have a hard time getting a sticker for their lifted rig?

I'd agree with the timing. I know the power only when you lead the rpms up with the throttle feeling, and it was because the timing was set 12 degrees too retarded. Check your timing with the green connectors together and see what you come up with.

I haven't had time to search for campgrounds and make reservations, what with pushing to get my car on the road, and working. Parties too. But I will. Soon . My car will be registered 2morrow, and I have 10 days to get it inspected. I have to bleed the breaks again and finish the rust repair. When the car's all legal, I'll see what I can do.

Not for a fuel injected engine. WHen the suspension starts to unload on the uphill side, you're very close.

All the junkyard around me do the ol' chisel to the tank trick to drain them before putting them in the yard. So, no tanks there unfortunately. I've only got $80 + tires and cost of PK lift into this car, so I can rationalize spending another $250. I'll still have under a grand in a kickbut car.

I took a die grinder and put a tapered stone in it to make the taper in the holes. I would adress this problem right now, becase those studs aren't going to want to take that impact for long.

for dinner I can supply a grill and charcoal. BYOB, cause I ain't 21 yet. Thanks subie94, checking out the trails rocks. I'll see how much food I can pack in. My wagon's out of commision right now, but WILL be running and offroading by september 1st. So that gives me 10 days to get it road happy. And Seahag, should I invite Slice? I'm sure he'd love to come.

But it is included in the BYB kit, contrary to TURBOSPFi's statements. 4" lift will fit probably 2 7-28" tires without trimming. my 30" tires required some good sledgehammering to the unibody to get them to fit. Kit instalation is simple, just FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS PERFECTLY. I didn't, and ended up causing myself no end of hassle and agrivation. And ditto on ditching the pushbutton 4wd in favor of a dual range. I am as soon as I get my rig to pass inspection.