WoodsWagon

outback is higher market, and has raised suspension. Other than that, no difference. Same basic body, just different option levels. Legacy Brightons are the bottom of the line options wise.

just did this in my mom's ford taurus. It didn't have a drain plug, and was a real pain to drain, ATF everywhere. What I got in the bucket was black and shiny, lots of brake band slime over the pan and metal dust on the magnet. Replacing the fluid and filter, the 2nd time its been done in 198k, brought the tranny back to life. It used to hunt and shift hard, and not downshift right after flooring it, everything was fixed by a fluid and filter change. Only half the fluid comes out, the other half is in the torque converter. I believe a "power flush" changes all the fluid, but I didn't want to take any risks.

Or you could be nice to the guy and drop the price to 800 bucks. He would feel less used and you would still make a tidy profit.

On my dad's 95 legacy, the throwout bearing is going, and it makes a knocking noise. You can tell if it is throwout vs. tranny by lightly touching the clutch pedal, not enough to disengage the clutch, but enough to preload everything in the system. If its the throwout, the noise will go away, but you can still feel it in the pedal. If you're going to replace the throwout bearing, you might as well replace the clutch at the same time. The whole job usually costs from 400 to 800 bucks, depending on where you go. Asuming it is the throwout bearing, you could just ignore it till it goes, but then you will have to learn how to drive it without disengaging the clutch, all the way to the repair shop. Not that hard actually.

Wouldn't those bolt be along the perimiter of the tranny? these are smack dab in the middle of the side. Smallish bolts, mabe 10-12mm heads on them.

There's the fill bolt and the drain plug, and then a bunch of other bolts on the side of the tranny which I thought were adjusting bolts. These bolts are leaking. I'm just afraid that if I remove these bolts, something will fall to the bottom of the tranny or that it will never shift right again.

the legacys are great cars. I'd pay less than 6k for a 1996 though. Do the usual fluid checks, and make the A/C work. My dad's legacy physically has the A/C components, but we got hosed on the coolling operation. Sellers said they had just had work done on the A/C.

My dad's car has oil leaking from the adjustment bolts on the side of the manual tranny. I'd ignore it, but it is dripping down onto the crossover pipe and buring off. I assume that there are O-rings around these bolts, but I'm afraid if I remove them and replace the seals, I will never get it to go back together. The tranny will be pulled out for a clutch job in a few months, or a year, depends on how loud the throwout bearing and how bad the judder gets. Should I wait till then and take the tranny apart? I have no experience working on trannys, so I dunno... Advise anone??

It worked out fine on a 95 brighton. The drivetrain/ suspension is pretty much the same for the earlier legacys, so it should fit fine. Expect 2" of clearance increase. More with bigger tires.

exterior is tan. Interior is there, but I don't remember what color it was. It was my first day in a new junkyard, and this one goes back to the 20's. All I can say is I was scouting around in a daze of wonder. Now that I know the layout, I can be much more detail oriented.

will go back and thouroughly inspect it. I thought the subaru resurection church was closed? I can take pictures and send to snail mail adress if you want. It is tanish with the BRAT targa stipes down the B pilar. No front valence, sorry. Will go back and catalogue good parts.

On my street, 2mi long not heavily populated, 1 WRX, 3 legacies, an Impreza wagon, my lifted wagon, and a beater wagon that the neighbors have. so 3.5 subies per mile of road isn't bad.

Its mostly there, engine looks complete. I could snag parts off it if someone needed them. I'm in N.H.

30x9.5 on chevy 6 lugs (8 now) I've got 3 of them mounted and on the car. I used my dad's car and a 2x4 to break the bead on the the one that was on a rim, then used screwdrivers to remove and mount the tires. The two threaded holes I damaged are where the tri-bolt plate where the radius rod and the tranny crossmember mount. I have to lower the engine/ tranny unit again so I can remove the steering link, which I didn't line up right, and get those tri-bolt plates out of the way so I can tap the holes. One each side. My response for questions about when it will be rollin? Eventually....

I attempted to remove the glass from the stripped 3-door, and found the 1/4 windows were glued in solid. All I succeeeded in doing was shattering them. I still have the rear glass and door though, stored in the woods.

I origionally bought 2 brand new looking courser OTD mud tires for $50 a piece. Once I got them on rims I found out they had been sidewall slashed in a previous life. So $100 bucks gone. Now I've bought 4 used Mud KIng 30" tires, and I've got 3 matching rims and one loner. By the end of tomorrow it should be up on 30's I bought the 12/1.25 tap for the threads I screwed up this morning. I'll have to take apart most of the front crossmembers to clear the bolt holes so I can tap them. That will suck the big one.

How do the exhaust valves hold up to that?

Open the smugglers hatches in the back and check to make sure that the frame rails aren't damaged. I was inspecting a posible purchase, and found that the frame rails had been beaten back into shape and JB welded. The car looked fine, but obviously had been rear ended at some point.

Often taking pictures is the last thing on one's mind while doing crazy driving. Good to see a subie out where it should be.

try in the New Gen section of the board. I'm sure there'll be somebody to help there.

I'd recommend a LSD and avoid a welded rear end. Not from a parts stress issue, which I don't consider to be too high, but from a drivability standpoint. I've welded the rear end in a ford pickup, and that truck is nutless, but it will get sideways on pavement if you lay into it at the start of a turn. The brat ia much liter in the back that a fullsize pickup, so it will probably be sideways everywhere. unless you want to put the rear end in the opposite lane every time you pull out of McD's, I wouldn't weld it.

I'd recommend a LSD and avoid a welded rear end. Not from a parts stress issue, which I don't consider to be too high, but from a drivability standpoint. I've welded the rear end in a ford pickup, and that truck is nutless, but it will get sideways on pavement if you lay into it at the start of a turn. The brat ia much liter in the back that a fullsize pickup, so it will probably be sideways everywhere. unless you want to put the rear end in the opposite lane every time you pull out of McD's, I wouldn't weld it.

I'd say go for a 3" lift all round, and run 27" All terains on it. You're not planning to do seroius off-roading with it, and that will gain you a lot for basic trail running. If you do find a LSD, definiately go for it. If you get stuck, just make sure that you don't work the tranny too hard. An oil cooler, for the tranny, was an eccelant suggestion. Would suck to go from a 4EAT to a 0EAT. Make sure you have a skidplate for the engine. Go for it.

It's probably not a 91 to start with. Thanks for the input on it not being a turbo. No chance it has a LSD under the back?

I'm thinking it might not be because the Ti outdoor wagon was an upmarket L wagon, according to one website, but it didn't say outdoor on it that I saw. Supposidy came with a engine skidplat though, and air suspension.