WoodsWagon

Use the same method for putting an EJ22 in an EA82 car and swap in the EJ25. Should work well. Where you gonna find a EJ25 for cheap though?

You are going to have to put a spool in the center differentioa; in the tranny to use only the spline stubs for RWD. Have you considered changing the final drive in the tranny to run everything backwards, then mounting the engine in the back behind the tranny and sending the power forwards to a rear differential between the front wheels? Drag racing would be insane, that light of a rear engined car should wheelie like nothing. good luck!

If you already made an adapter for the EJ18, go for the EJ22. More power is always good, and it can't weigh much more. With the amount of custom in Leroy, use the lecacy suspension or hubs just so you have better rim selection. Was yours the project car that had water poured down its throat by a jealous tennant in the parking garadge?

The wider your tires the better, and bring a shovel when you go. There's only one way to find out, GO FOR IT

Yeah, the hardest part for me was getting the rim off the hub, it had rusted in place. Everything else was a snap. Welcome to subie maintenence

replace the rubber mount between the body and the back of the shifter, replace any bushings back in there, and find out if it helps. I can see how it could affect the shifter staying in gear, bucause the tranny til is being twisted down by the engine braking, and if the shifet linkage wasn't able to move with it, it could pop out of gear. Tell the mechanic to replace them just to humor you, and It can't be more expensive than swapping in yet another tranny. Yes the problem could have cropped up on the first and last but not on the middle two because the mechanic may have overtightened something that would hold the linkages in the propper position for a while. Replace the bushings, and if that doesn't cut it, put the tranny with the wrong gearing in and swap the rear end out (easy job)with the proper ratio. I agree the car aint cursed, it's just having something missed by the mechanic.

Thanks NorthWet. 5 hours of penetrating oil seeped in and I was able to get the distributor to move with the hammer. It is now at 21 degrees, close enough. Engine is much perkier. I replaced cap, rotor, plugs and wires a year ago, hoping that would solve the problem, so it seems that the rest of the ignition is good. The car was dealer serviced untill I got my hands on it. I consider it a dark mark on the Subaru Of Milford mechanics if the base timing was set that far off. It's also a smudge on my record that I failed to pick up on it till now. It still smells like it is running rich, but I'm wondering if I cooked my cat by running the ignition retarded like that. The MAF sensor seems to be good, It's getting 12.5 volts and has a good ground. It puts out 1 volt at idle and 1.5V at 2200 rpm, so it seems to be responding. There's notmuch else other than the injector that could be making this run rich. Mabe the injector is dribbling between cycles?

The engine has always been fairly powerless, but with the 30" tires it really shows. It is also really boggy off the low end. I spent a few hours getting diagnostic info. It is a SPFI engine, manual tranny Timing: 8 degrees at 750 rpm with green connectors together. The distributor is about centered in the slotted ears for clamping it down, so I'm wondering why it's so far off. It's supposed to be 20 degrees. The distributor also refuses to rotate, even with encouragement from a hammer. Is there more bolts than the 2 ears? Vacuum: 19" of merc at idle, 21" at 2k rpm and held steady. Took reading from the vacuum line leading to 4wd soleniods because it was convienient. TPS: Connection pins Throttle] 1 Body ] 2 ] 3 ] 4 1 and 2 appear to be the idle swich pins, which operates appropriately 3 and 4 appear to be the rheostat, ranging from 4.5 k ohms at Idle to 1.5 k ohms at WOT 2 and 3 range from 0.59 k ohms to 4 k ohms. Are these readings within spec? I have a Childrens manual, which is very random and vague on the testing procedure. I say its running rich because of lots of black soot in the tailpipe and the exhaust reeks of half burnt HC.

If the shock mounts your thinking of are at the top of the struts,leave those alone. The ones that cause the most steering vagueness are the strut rod mounts. If you look under the car, they are ~1/2-3/4" rods that come back from the radius arm and attach at an angle under the body. The radius arm runs paralell and underneath the halfshaft.

Industrial degreaser in a spraycan works well. I've used it to remove company door stickers.

Hell, we used a lincoln stick welder to do my trucks rear end. That thing has more electrical tape than insulation. Its a red jukebox on wheels, but the only tune it plays is lots of humming.

Strut rod bushings. These are the rubber bushings that the arms that come back from the radius arms and attach under the car by the firewall. At the minimum, replace them. If you wan't to go further, some guy did a writeup on replacing them with Heim joints. Improving this anchor point will solidify the geometry of the front end and help handling immensely. Consider polyurethane bushings for such Items as the radius arms and the sway bar. Board member WJM did a thread on part #'s for EA82 body cars, which is what you have. Other than that, watch out for rust.That can lead to front ends falling apart under stress.

Momentum is key. Air'd down tires and keeping a pace up will float the car across most soft sand. Have fun!

The doors aren't a structural member. Otherwise, it would be difficult to poen them if you had one wheel up on a rock. Tube doors kick @ss, and yours look well done.

I have a sand pit wall I do hillclimbing on. It's difficult to walk up on foot. My Legacy makes it 9/10ths of the way up, but the loyale now highmarked it by putting the front wheels up on the earth above. I still have engine issues to solve, but I'm up to 2/3rds of my total steering range after taking the sledgehammer to it. The rear is completely non-rubbing now, all it took was a pair of channel lock pliars and a sheet metal hammer. Sorry about the lack of pics. I have a camera, I have a satelite link, but I don't have the knowhow to combine the 2 to get pictures up here.

My loyale is finaly lifted. It has the 4/4 PK lift and 30x9.5 tires on it. Its gonna a lot of trimming to stop the rubbing, but Its drivable. It only has the pushbutton 5spd, and the engine is running all wrong, but it moves under its own power. Tried some hillcliming in my sand pit and it could get only half as far as my legacy before stalling. But its lifted and rolling. Its been a long process, but I finally pulled it off. I worked all today repairing stripped threads and bolting things down. I crushed the frame rail a bit where the engine crossmember bolts on. guess I was a bit stronger than I thought. What was cool was at least 5 people rolled down their windows and yelled out positive opinions of the car. One told me to put it in a 4x4 truck magazine. Its good to have a suportive audience.

Once a date is set, I am all for going. the Kingdom trails are the best! I helped build one of them that goes right near the campground. My wagon will be rolling by then, so thats seats for 3 extras offroad. I will have some sort of bike rolling. My luck with bikes is not good. I snapped the seatpost off my Jamis, and then I snapped 3 spokes and streched the rest a month ago in the backwheel. It'll take some resuskitation to get it going again... But count me In.

sounds like a really nice setup. migt as well just post the guide to TCU free shifting in the Repair manual section of the board. It link is in the top bar.

Our 95 EJ22 has dual ports.

Don't be stingy with the welding rod either. Lay lots of bead and melt those gears together. I had a rear end in a truck break wussie welds twice, but the third time, we used 4 rods each side with bolts melted in for added wedging on the gears. It hasn't broken yet.

No pics, but 1992 Loyale wagon 4/4 BYB lift (PK) sackless EA82 SPFI mated to an eaqually sackless pushbutton 4wd 5spd. All to be upgraded soon. 30" mud King tires on 15" chevy 6 lug rims. No bumpers. due to 2 stripped bolts and my constant procrastination not rolling yet. but it is sitting on 30"s and has >12" of ground clearance

Add one more! a new family moved into a duplex up the street, and they brought a wicked nice WRX with them. Its an early one, and really well kept up. They're spreading......

you can drill a hole in the exhaust manifold right before the Cat and buy a threaded plug from an exhaust shop to weld on. Is the wire or connector for the O2 sensor dangling anywhere near by?

If you do the job yourself it could cost less than 200 bucks. A 1995 with only 120k is worth putting that money into. Another thing to think about is the suspension. If the struts haven't been replaced ever, 120K is getting close to their expiration date. That will run another 400 bucks DIY. But after that, you will have a car that takes off and handles like new. I can testify to these being fun cars with new struts

Change the fluid and filter and see if it improves. It's not hard, or expensive and could prolong the life of the tranny a fair bit. I've heard those sun gears shatter. Real unhealty noise. I just figured that auto trannys would just keep slipping till they couldn't grip any more, but wow what a bang when you floor it while its slipping. And a nice ripping, grinding noise as the remains dissapear.