WoodsWagon

Sorry, no pics. But it has 3/16" wall 2x2 box tubing where the bumper bolts to the unibody, and same 3x2 running across the middle with a 6x12" plate welded on the flat side in the middle for a winch landing. Two thinner wall (like a 1/16) pieces of 2x2 box tubing running from the sides angled back to be flush with the start of the quarter panels. It's strong enough that me (240lbs) can jump up and down on the winch mount without any ill efects. I have a milemarker 9k winch that I'm in the process of reworking. I cleaned and relubed the planetary gearsets yesterday, and I cleaned out and reglued the permanent magnets to the motor casing. When the epoxy dries, hopefully the motor will work again without the magnets getting stuck to the armature. When the winch is on the bumper, there is just enough room to fit your finger in to pop the hood latch, and yes I planned it that way. I still have to make a couple verticle supports from the bottom of the bumper to a piece of angle iron I have bolted to the lower radiator support. They will help counteract the twisting force of the winch and give me somwhere to secure expanded sheet metal to the front to protect my radiator. When I build my new and improved skid plate, it will also attach to this piece of angle iron.

Sounds like it will be like the delorian on huge mudders. Go for it! I don't see why you don't just use the blazer body though?

Another thread returns from the dead! My loyale wagon is becoming the most confused car ever. It will have a 1992 body, hood, fenders, and tranny from an 86 3-door, engine from a 1992 legacy, sundry parts from random vehicles. I'll have to make a list of source vehicles under the hood for ordering parts.

Check the little evap hoses that hook into the gas tank forward of where the filler neck joins it. the nipples seem to rust off and then gas dribles out.

We have a local "repairable" auto's dealership. Watching the tricks of the trade and warnings from the junkyard owner across the street, I have to say you should avoid it. Consider this: the crankcase is vented through the airbox through the PCV system, the rear diff and tranny both have vents, and the seals on wheelbearings ect. are not ment to be submerged. Floodwaters usually have silt in them, and bearings don't like silt. Silt gets stuck in lots of places in the drivetrain, and just swapping fluids won't get it all out. Lots of bearings will start letting go a few thousand miles later. The resellers change the fluids so they look clean (fooling the buyer) and take a pressure washer to everything. Keep an eye out for a waterline in the headlights and taillights, not a good sign. I have seen pounds of dirt be washed out of the intertior of cars. What was left in the tranny?

1995 legacy brighton. Outback struts, orig springs and caps. NO SPACERS. Didn't even realize the outbacks had them. Anyone have picture/part# for proof?

Legacy's are as good a platform to start from as EA's. it's just the afermarket has had more time to come up with reliable lifts for the EA's. As for anyone who has the opinion that legacys don't have anything on ea's I ask them: have you actually tested to back up your claim? or do you just go by lack of low range, locked center, and ground clearance and say they suck. Ground cleance was the bigest drawback on my 1992 legacy, but it could easily drag it's sory but across things my loyale didn't have the power to crawl through. Yes, you could feel the rocks and stumps through the floorboards, but all you had to do was stomp on them and they would go back down. The legacy could outclimb my loyale in my sandpit, with worse tires. It would bottom and throw sand onto the windshild, but the AWD and 130 horses hauled it right up where my loyale would bog and stall. My personal opinion is that the legacy front end with real lower control arms, not strut rods, is stronger. EA's look cooler though, and I like the upright seating better. I's all ammatter of personal preference.

It may say something about me, but the first thing i though of when I saw this was using a small car, like a civic, as an RTI ramp and calculating the lean of the car on how far up the hood/windshield you get. Then i saw it was a dash gauge, and all my visuals were ruined.

Did you try pulling the car backwards? with it in a forwards gear? What you want to try to do is spint he engine reverse rotation, with enough torque to bust it free. So you want 5th gear to get the torque on the crank, and 4wd to get the traction, and a pickup to pull the car backwards. Find a nice quiet section of dry pavement. Pull the plugs out to help anything clear. Get going as fast as you dare and dump the clutch. In 5th, going backwards. It's your only chance short of pulling the engine and spliting the block.

Sometimes heat from a propane torch right round the center helps. Not too much mind you, you don't want to burn the grease in the bearings. But yeah, just bang them harder than you think you should and they will come off.

Nope, you can drive them for years and the bubble will stay in the system. Do you have a 10mm, 8mm and 12mm wrenches? If so, you can be taught to bleed them yourself. Low brake fluid usually means really worn brake pads in the front or a leak somewhere in the system. Check those before you take the car back out.

I have an air tool called a pin scaler. Basically high speed jackhammer effect with lots of steel pins that stick out. It's for cleaning paint and rust off of metal. I give the wheel a hit with that round the studs while pulling on the back and most of them pop off. I have had to break down to the BFH before though.

The oil burning may not have been the end of the world. Good you got it swapped though. Konrad's EJ22 burned a quart at least every 200 miles. Starting it cold in the morning was hilarious. Smokescreen! Thing ran like a top even though it threw more codes than you could count and the MIL flashed when you accelerated. Thing has nut too, puts you back in your seat and left me behind on the HWY when I was holding 90mph. So you may have had a fair bit of time left in the old block.

Yeah, Ice is scaryier on the way down. I took my dad's legacy up one of the local class 6 roads without a problem, it was mabe 5" of snow, but I didn't know it was Ice under it. When I was coming back down, it was a 15mph controlled slide for 1/2 mile down and into the state highway at the end. No amount of pumping and easy aplication would get it to grab enough to slow down. scary.

Put it in first and have someone drag the car backwards and drop the clutch in 4 high in 5th gear. You might be able to pop it loose. Usually when an engine siezes, it takes more and more to keep it going, then it locks up, not just pow and stopped. good luck. It usually takes a lot to kill these engines.

Only drawback I see, other than cost, it that it will cut your gas milage. Instead of the nice smooth paint, it will be like hauling an ugly rock through the air.

Bump for a good idea. Seems like historic subaru owner's are like cats, and well.... you know what they say about herding them.

Coveted a EJ22T, but the cheapest one I could find was $1k, used. $75 for a whole running/driving beatable Legacy which I can part out as needed. Everything is there and I have no qualms about tearing it apart. Rebuilt the engine for $600. Bought supercharger for $20. Will have high comp with low boost coming on soon, best of all worlds for wheeling. My EA82 had nothing untill 2,000rpms, so I will have to modify my wheeling style to compensate for the increas in power and torque and go slower.

You could also put one of the distributor boots from say, a 3.0 ford taurus motor and wrap that round the throttle linkages. BTW, if you make a habit of launching that car, you'll be seeing the struts bumping up the hood.

Why not just cut it and weld it on at an angle. That would move the knob back and lower it.

This is totaly an in-your-driveway sytle repair. The bigest PITA will be bleeding the brakes once your done. Just by a manual, like a chiltons from an auto parts store and look at the pictures for the rear suspension. Then remove everything that isn't the crossmember and replace it with the same parts off a junkyard car.

Family Board!

I'm running 30X9.5's on mine on a mixed set of chevy 15" rims. Without transfer case, 4" lift. Without the low range tranny, they were too big for offroading. The momentum I had to keep up was detrimental to the structure of the car. With the low rang3e, their perfect. With a transfercase, I'd say they would be on the small size. Of course, clearance is often an issue, and i had to go wild with a slege to fit them, and they still rub.

In that well the passunger side, there is the fuel pump wires that you have to be carefulll of. On the drivers side, there is the washer res and pump. i rebuilt mine with sheet metal and rivits with liberal bondo usage. Then I painted it black from a spraycan to cover everything up. Polyurethane expando foam in a can also works for panel re-creation just shave it with a razor blade after, bondo skim coat and paint. Wasn't there an icident with a gravel pile and airtime that might have bent the front?

Someone needs to grab that. Insurance will total it, but a new quarter panel and reseating the tires would make that drivable again. I don't know about the downside, but a couple o' doors would make it good enough. Looked in nice shape rust wise.