WoodsWagon

EJ22T is a closed deck solid block, equal or better than the 2.0l Any of the mods that boost power on the 2.0 will work on the 2.2. The only difference is SOHC vs DOHC, both are 16valves. Explain to me why less displacement on the same basic design engine would be a benefit? I'm not dissing the 2.0, but why go for less when you already started with more? If any swap was being done, swap up to a turbo 2.5L

Mtsmiths is a dirty old man :clap: A kid in town has a turbo woody chrysler wagon Kcar. thing leaks gas, oil, coolant, and the struts are totally gone. He can make the wheels bounce off the ground by tapping the gas and brake at the right frequency.

That rocks that you got your car back with minimum damage. Seeing as they smoked the clutch, you might want to cruize around and look for AWD burnouts and nuts. How are the tires? Get the popo's to dust the pepsi can (unless you went and grabbed it). It may be a print on file and put some crack head behind bars.

good thing you got out of that shop, and fast. Payment plan is the tool of the wallet rapist. Another thing to consider is the keyway on the camshaft. If the key sheared, the pullly could have rotated on the cam. Definiatly an issue beween the distributor rotor and the crank pully, so left side of the engine. Take off the top end cover on the timing belt left side, and start from there.

Loyale's are lighter, but legacys can loose a lot of weight if you strip them out. EG33 swap into a legacy would be sick, that's the engine out of the SVX, which will bolt up to the legacy tranny. Legacy's have less ground clearance, but with some skid plating it doesn't matter. I believe the suspension is more rugged in a legacy. AWD vs 4WD doesn't seem to make that much of a difference at high speed. Both handle really naturally. I'm leaning toward a first gen legacy. 1994 and earlier.

Tis' the season for smoking deals at the junkyard. I just found and stored the intercooler, recirc valve, oil cooler and front mount push fan from a saab 9000aero. The intercooler is the size of the radiator, so about 2'X3.5' and 20 bucks. the Recirc valve, oil cooler and fan are to be decided, but 20 bucks is his favorite price.Thirty bucks for the lot! The whole pile! I giggled like a 4year old at christmas as I packed them in my shed. rllywgn, that is a wicked good cleaning job on the Bov! Looks sweet.

I support a meet at Mary's house. When were you thinking? Late April at the earliest for me, I have to get the EJ22 running. most of milford's and manchesters drug supply heads right through Mason on Rt 31. Enough so that our local cops bought a Crown vic just for the 3 mile section. Crown vic sucks for the rest of the roads in our town. Of course, no town is sketch, just the peolple who live there are.

Nerf bars/rock sliders can help a lot if they are made right. The majority of them are oversized thinwall tube that crumples, or worse bends up and crushes the body. The problem with mounting them on a subaru is that there is nothing strong enough on the body to mount them too. So you need to build cross bars under the body to tie the two sides together. Then you run into driveshaft and exhaust clearance issues.

Just for kicks, try and spin the rotor under the cap by hand. The spfi's have a set screw that can come loose and everything looks good but the car won't run. If you can spin the rotor on the shaft, that's your problem. It came loose on my loyale while I was 200 miles away from home on a backroad. I thought I had run out of gas, it did the whole sputtering and misfireing to a stop deal.

The plugs are wet, which means the fuel injection is working. The timing for the cams is assumed right, so the right processes are happening Is the spark fat? If you take a wire off and hook it to a spare spark plug and let it rest on the block while someone cranks the engine, is there a big blue spark? If not, it may be poor connections on the coil, or a battery dropping too low on cranking. Leave the wires to the fuel pump unhooked and pour some fresh gas down inside the throttle body. Only a tablespoon full or so. Put the rubber intake boot back on and crank it. If it fires up for a few seconds, you know it was bad gas.

If you are careful and make sure not to get anything in the carb, I would use white lithium grease in a spray can to coat all the linkages. Move theme through their ranges and spray any part that moves. Then go to the throat of the carb and use carb cleaner and a rag to clean off any gum that may have built up on the throttle plate. I use white lith on all the little moving parts, like door hinges and hood latches.

Try and get the long block from the JY. Take the coolant hoses off of your engine, drain the oil, take the radiator out. It gives room to work. Take off the intake manifold, leaving the carb on and flip it into where the spare tire goes. Do the same with the power steering pump and the A/c if either are equipped. Disconnect whatever wires are left over. Take out all 4 tranny bolts and the two engine mount nuts. Remove exhaust headers off of engine and let hang. Then get some strong buddies or an engine lift and pull the engine off the tranny. Do the reverse and fill fluids. start and go. People who have practice can do it in less than 2 hours. It took me a day with an EJ22, which is fuel injected, the first time.

pushbutton sucks no matter what car it's in. 4LO is the way to GO

Subaru 4x4 drive systems: Loyale's= pushbutton 4wd vacuum operated engagement. Either front wheel drive or 4wheel drive, no reduction. Think a newer Chevy blazer with the buttons on the dash, except no 4lo. GL's, DL's, GL-10's 4wd with a lever. Just like a pickup transfercase in operation. One position for front wheel drive, one for 4wheel drive, and one for 4wheel low. There was a second version of this transmission, with a center differential that could be locked (think Jeep J-10's) If offroading a subaru, the low range is a savior. so much less damage due to lower crawling speeds. All the loyale's and earlier can be lifted with a kit. Legacy's can be lifted too, but more expensive for the same height. Justy's don't have a kit yet.

Well, after i got the water to pass by the rings, the next 15-20 times I started it, it took an insane amount of effort by the starter to spin it. I couldn't turn the engine by hand with a ratchet. The binding reduced with miles, and now it starts at the right speed and it knocks. The knocking is really loud, and it happens every stroke, not just comp. At first, it got quieter on decel, but now it's continuous. lost a fair bit of power too. Since it happened as soon as the engine restarted while i was in the pond, it wasn't the water in the oil that did it. I only drove another mile or so with the water in the oil, and it was knocking hard that whole time. So that leads me to bent or twisted rod, and I think the piston has worn to fit now. I'm going to take it apart when I swap the EJ in, but for now it's still moving the car.

Riding I-91? I had to drop to third to hold 65 on some of those hills in my loyale with 30's. Tires eat up gears easy, but you get used to screaming the engine in lower gears to get steam up hills.

It took 600 bucks just in parts for my motor, and I was being cheap. It is a bigger process than you think.

Be warned, EA82's can be hydrolocked with extremly detrimental effects. I sunk mine at ~4,000 rpm's and it bent a connecting rod. It still runs, but it is so loud you have to yell at each other with it idling with the hood open. If you feed it through a vaccum line, it won't allow enough volume through to lock it, so you should be safe. DO NOT just pour anything down the throat. I have hydrolocked a ford probe by cleaning the throttle body with carb cleaner. After I finneshed, I cranked it and whump, it locked. It takes less than you think.

What's the difference between the Beetle and bus trannies? I have acess to a tranny out of a 20+ window bus with the canvas sunroof. Most of the rest of the bus is trash though.

Subaru sold 2wd auto's and manuals for EJ's from 1989-1994.

Yeah, I got stood up by everyone except konrad and matt, and I watched him drive past me while I was eating lunch up there. But I'm not bitter, me and konrad probably wouldn't have gotten away with the driving we did up there if there was more cars.

#1 the crimped connections are shiz. Notice how the connector on the origional plug is gold plated? Notice how the screw together grey splicer thingys are not? Not that that has stopped me from using 2 of them I know it's bad and i do it anyways. #2 put an ammeter in line with the heater wires where the splice is. See how much the heater is pulling.

Your insurance will love you.. they like taking all of your paycheck. Yay for a junkyard resque mission. Less Yay for moving in to take my title as only lifted EA wagon in the state.

Go back to the first post in this thread. The Pictures of the car. one of them is an underhood picture. SPFI Swaping to a carb block will LOOSE power. IT IS NOT TURBO! However, port maching a spfi manifold and head will help some. Apparantly the intake manifold gasket is smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so trimming everything will help.

All EJ trannys are interchangable. EJ18, EJ20, Ej22, EJ22T, EJ25, all of them bolt up. The swap to a turbo motor has been done a few times before. Just get all the wiring from the donor car. By the way, the tranny you have is coveted by us in North America, because we never got dual range EJ trannys, just single range.