WoodsWagon

Their behind a bright blue geo metro stacked in the middle rear. I only stashed the good ones.

valve burned and leaking back through exhaust to the other cyl? Sure your doing the test on the comp stroke?

Want me to put them on layaway for you? I can find a "safe" van to hide them.

My vocabulary doesn't include "ad hominem", and neither did msoft word's dictionary, so I've been outclassed in an insult. Another trick I try to refrain from doing is being an A-hole. I don't know how many refrences to grab a pack/case of beer, get out the dremel/drill, and take a couple of hours to get the job done. Rims, flywheels, accesories, you name it, it's been modified while tipsy by someone. I don't drink. period. Which is a feat when living in a redneck area where the only thing to do on the weekend is get drunk. The torque and shock loading of the drivetrain is being transmitted through the sides of the bolts going into the crank. They do more than just clamp it to the crank. You want the holes as acurate as possible so that the flywheel will not work loose over time. Any play will start shearing those bolts fast. Speaking of tricks, I'm working as an automotive show pony right now. 3 competitions simultaeneously, with nationals in Kansas City, Detroit, and New York city. I've kissed my vacations, school afternoons, and summer plans untill july good by for these, and they weren't exactly volentary. It's almost enought to make me want to pass out drunk.

Good tip is to use a hacksaw blade to carefully cut the braket that holds the brake flex line. If you cut it, you can fold it back and get the line out without removing any of the fittings. Saves the trouble of bleeding brakes and braking rusty line fittings. Cut the new struts brackets in the same way.

All taurus tranny's suck. The engines are a pain to work on, but the 3.0 vulcan v6's are relaible as all get out. We have one with 206k on it, and are milking the tranny for every mile. I don't dare floor the car, it might be too much. Second 93-96 2.2L legacy. good cars, highly abusable, and reliable. Power is not bad. Methinks Ranger is spoiled? Possibly never driven a loyale? The volvo 240's are tanks. I met a kid that got in a hard accident with a cadilac that they rear ended. His sister was driving, and he was reading a cd cover. He felt the car slow down a bit faster than normal, and heard a funny noise, looked up and was like "OH, shaznat!" Both cars totaled, and he didn't even realize they were crashing. There's a reason cartalk recomends them for teen drivers.

Any news?

The car is now 12" thick. The rims are stacked to the side, both sets. I moved quick. However, the legacy I needed the radio out of is also 12" thick, and the toyota that was stacked on top of it isn't. When I saw the remains in the crusher, I was sooo pissed.

The rod coming back from the controll arm is called the strut or radius rod. It is the only thing holding the wheel forward. If the bushings or the plate it mounts in on the body are damaged, go ahead and replace them, if the body is rusted through and tearing, the car is junk. Your life is not risking driving it, the wheel could fold in at any time and that rod would come through the floor. Buy a moped or something, your not only endangering yourself, but anyone else in the vicinity. There is no "rub" when it comes to structural integrity issues. Looking back at your origional post, I need a better description of the "chassis" you speak of. Is it part of the suspension or the body? If it's part of the suspension, it's easily repairable. If it's the body, ditch it now.

It's kinda a PITA because the EA hole are not set out in a geometric pattern. They are all on the same radius, but the spacing between them is different. So the EJ holes will be misaligned in different ways with each of the EA holes. Our rotary table wasn't big enough to hold the flywheel, so we had to use trig to plot the holes. Drilled it up, and it fit perfect. I believe you can use Ni rod or something for welding cast iron, but I may be speaking out of my arse. Seeing as I'm planning to push 160+ horse through it, I'm not in the "it centers itsself, get boozed up and dremel it out" camp.

Well, as predicted, the car is toast. Fork loader tine through the back window and out the front didn't help. I stacked the rims to the side, they are 8spoke steel with chrome trim rings in nice shape. the set that were on the car don't have trim rings and are rusty. One black centercap with subaru's stars. Located in greenville NH FItchburg road auto recycling. If you need something, I may be able to go back omorrow and grab it, but it may have been run throught the crusher by then.

I'm grabbing the rims, the rest might last a couple of days before it's toast.

When you move the shifter, does it feel like it's moving anything, or just sliding around in it's positions? I've broken the cable between the shift lever and the tranny before, you might want to check. Others have had problems with the TCU biting the dust. Did it give any warning signs before it let out? Can you put it in park or nuetral?

wait, wait.. How fast are we talking? Is this going to be a race or just out for some fun? If you're just looking for a good beater vehicle to fly around on rough roads with, a late 80's subie with a D/R 5spd might be a good car. If you get some adjustable struts from a 1985 or 6 car, springs from an RX for stiffness, and new bumpstops for the front and rear, it might be a cheap thrill. I'd look into at least a hoop style roll bar inside, these cars do fairly well in rollovers, but still, can't be too safe. Strip out as much weight as possible though, remove A/C componants, rear trim and insulation, carpets and such. If you picked up a 3-door, you could remove the rear hatch and put a pickup style rollbar in the back. removing the hatch drops a lot of weight too. don't do too much jumping with the car. 2' max air if you want to keep the damage down. The stuts can end up bending or ripping through the wheelwell in the back if you are too abusive. You might want to put a crossbar in the back between the 2 wheelwells.

Spotted a decent looking 1984 gl wagon, all nice except drivers door and underbody rust. 2wd 5spd, rear wiper, power windows, A/C set of nice spare wagon wheels with chrome trim rings, no paint, bright metal. purpleish velvet seats, lots of good bits. Nice manual, not one grease spot. Mirror in glove box lots of options, spare front bumper in back with chrome undertube It will be crushed fast, I know how this yard operates. If you need parts in the northeast, speak NOW or it's gone. I will strip what's needed and the rest is toast. Requests saturday morning at latest.

Legacy AWD trannies have a viscious limited slip differential in the middle, vs the Full-time 4wd having an either open or locked center diff. So they aren't just a rebadged system.

I'd be out for blood. My snowmobile died last winter in the middle of the woods (again), and I moved it off to the side of the trail. Some MOFO came along on a 4x4 quad bike and stopped, flipped my sled over, broke the hood, lost a fair bit of gas, and let all my trail tools fall down into the mud. They were stupid though, they left tracks, right to their house. So justice was done. If there were tracks, memorize them and keep an eye on any vehicle that could have pulled your brumby out. Check the tires, and when you find a match, keep a close eye on the bastards. Have you told the police yet? They may locate an "abandoned vehicle" AKA your brumby wrapped around a tree w/ bullet holes in it. Auto theft is a big deal.

Anyone know if a speed shop could find a higher pressure belleville spring to fit on an EA pressure plate? It seems doable.

A thourough inspection is a good thing. Many cars don't deserve to be on the road. The place that I take my car to checks all the important things, brakes, tie rods tires, ball joints, shocks, wiper operation (front only), lights and horn. They let me pass even with a nasty scratch in the windshield left by the wiper arm when the PO had the blade fall off. They knew that I had 80lbs of steel in the smugglers hatch in the back and another 60 in the spare tire up front to get the bumpers down to the 20" level. The guy said, "If the state comes, I can truthfully say that it was at the right level when I saw it. That's all I care about."

slid off the first page, so B.. M ..U.. P

The high low actuting lever is on the right (passengers USA) side of the tranny right up by the bell housing. You should be able to see it by looking under the hood with the spare tire removed. If you shift it separately, it will help a lot for running with big tires. With my car, I didn't have time to separate it out, so it still works the oem way. I drive it in 4lo all the time now, but it stays on my dirt driveway. Remember, the 30" tires I have on put much more leverage and fight on the drivetrain than the stock tires ever could. The times you most need low range are parking and pulling out into traffic, both times when 90 degree turns are being made. It's stupid to stress the drivetrain more when you are trying to pull out into traffic. I have had situations that I've ended up sitting at an exit from a parking lot for 10minutes waiting for traffic to clear enough that I can lumber my way in. 2wd lo is the way to go.

I've known friends who just hit the brakes hard enough to leave skid marks and taken their hands off the wheel. They were also driving shixbox cars and trucks, so they didn't care. Taught the people who cut out a hard lesson though. Soobscript: good aim! looks like it was dead center. What was left of the engine?

Yeah it sucked. The stuff didn't bond too well to the metal, so once it had a chip in it, it would hold water between it and the metal. Once the metal rusted out, the undercoating would peel off in sheets. I hold the mofo personaly responsible for the demise of my dads old 3-door.

Guy sucked. I hold him responsible for the speed with which the car rusted. Car saver system, my butt. Unfortunately for you, I let the sticker go with the shell of the car.

It's completely dependant on the salt too. My car has been off the public road all winter, due to the engine issues. I've driven it plenty in the snow (what little we got), and left it parked on grass. The rust that I repaired last year hasn't grown. I know it would have eaten the car alive if I had driven it. There's a reason we hide from salt trucks.