WoodsWagon

Valve timing is off that is. If the ignition timing is right, then you know you only got the passenger side belt on the wrong spot.

My car should be running by then, I'm in. Barf's rootbeer for me. horse douvers suck, so lets go for real food. BBQ whatever is good. What this about DrunkDrivers being mandatory? Will I be alowed to drive sober? I'll give free lifted wagon rides.

Somebody has to bring the lighter, i mean stove, to heat the "pot" on. Don't burn for too long, the results might be hilarious.

Why not do the work yourself? If your replacing the radiator and hoses anyway,it makes it really easy to do the timing belt and water pump. Is the timing belt origional? Is the water pump making any noise? Is there any reason to replace them other than the place told you they needed replacing?

Those mudboats look like something straight out of the movie Waterworld! Freakin badass! How often do they capsize and how easy is it to flip them?

Intercooler is nice. Color is nice. You might want to put some sheet metal around the air filter so it pulls more of it's air from the quarter panel and less from the engine compartment. Do you have a bracket supporting the flapper door MAF? It's not as crucial as a hot wire MAF being supported is, but having it flopping around can't be good. You might want to put an oil cooler in as well. As for the muffler, everyone knows the noise that hondas make with them on. I have discovered that honda's make the exact same noise with a 3 inch rust hole in the side of the stock muffler. Price for fart-can exhaust: $150+ Price for rust hole $0. OWNED!

It's not the proportioning valves you have to worry about, it's the metering valves. With a disk/drum system, the drums have springs that have to be overcome before braking while the disks do not. so there are valves that hold the pressure off the disks untill the drums are activated, it works off of line pressure. So the rear brakes will end up doing more than their share if you leave the metering valves in. That's the theory. If the brakes work fine, F'it and don't worry.

did you remove the big nut in the middle of the wheel? Yes= no roll No= yes roll there you go, doesn't get much simpler.

True, you may not be burning up server space, but you are still using up bandwith. The USMB is only allocated a certain amout for each month, and we've smacked it the limit a couple of times. Not cool when the board is down at the end of each month. Pictures are cool, but working links work just as well without putting strain on the board. It's not a matter of being a long time member or a donor (which is always good), it just being part of a low budjet community. We could have ads for questionable performance parts, wings, and rims on the site to pay for it like cardomain does, and we could download at the same painfull rate, or we could keep it barebones, cheap, and fast. Is this the first time me and corky have not argued about something? Wow, a day full of firsts.

Are the rear halfshafts like the old EA style ones where they slip over 2 stubbs or are they like the front halfshafts? If they slip over the stubbs, no problem moving it. As long as you didn't remove the nut in the middle of the wheel, it should be movable.

Nice. My other thought if it hadn't been the fork would have been a siezing pilot bearing, which would continue to spin the tranny shaft. Somebody doesn't look happy to be pulling the engine!

As long as they don't rub on the spring landing, anything else can be shifted with a 3lb hammer. test just the rim with the bald tire on a front and a back and see how it does.

Cheaper method might be to get a used tranny out of a donor car in the junkyard. What happened to yours was the mismatched tire sizes overheated the center diff, which then charred into a solid lump. If you swap out a used tranny, it should probably work just as well and the chance of it being seized too are slim. Replace all the shift bushings while it is out.

Just because I enjoy the thrills of smashing a vehicle through terrain it was never meant to traverse doesn't mean that I support Southern Independence. It puzzles me why anyone would want to fly a confederate flag on their vehicle. YOUR SIDE LOST. The nation that the flag represented doesn't even exist. What will it change if you fly it? Muddboggin is some wild stuff. recovery gear becomes paramount doing that. There is a trail in wilton that stopped a ford with 44's and a 351w. The toyota's we were running didn't have a chance. we got both stuck in 5 minutes and had to call in a stock nissan hardbody to come resque us.

Was the white powder in the coin tray left by the thieves, or were you eating donuts?

I know trails from a cruise in the woods to redneck demo-derby, it'll make it through if you just give it more gas- style trails. Your pick.

Why not weld a gas grill right into the back? It would work as a strut bar for the back, and be kickarse for holding wheeling days.

I'm sure the pictures aren't doing it justice, but not bad for a stock legacy. Now *if* you didn't mind putting some dents in the car, I've got some more challenges down in my neighborhood.

You guys are complaining about the color of the roll cage? Look at the whole thing! It's beautiful! I could never put the time into making something that cool.

Oooh this is where revenge gets sweet. You could either call the cops, or you could have some fun and then call the cops. If you have a spare set of keys, you could just drive off with it. I'm a big fan of waiting in the bushes and surprising the culprit. Get that Brumby BACK!

I use pop rivets and sheet metal. cut out all the rust, put paint on the edges, slap sheet metal on and rivet it into place. use a bit of bondo to cover over the rivits and paint it up. Worked for my loyale, which was a partial rustbucket when I got it.

If you need the pattern you could use to give coordinates for a milling machine, I could go find our notes. If you are going to drill it with a die grinder, use a flexplate.

I've got a tree-saver strap, shackles, and a MM 9000 lb winch with the bumper to match. I would not attempt to pull out other vehicles than my own. The unibody is not built to take that kinda tension. At the moment, it's not the lack of an alternater slowing me down, it's the lack of a good engine under the hood.

My best advise is to use topographical maps to find class 6 roads. These are abandoned roads that are still a public right of way. Noone can do anything about you offroading on them. Look for roads shown by two dashed lines, then follow. Another way to do it leagaly is to go to the town offices, use the tax map to locate the owner of the property you want to wheel on, and ask them if you can. If they say yes, make up a little form giving you permission for them to sign so that the cops can verify you are allowed to be there. Many property owners who have posted no tresspassing land will allow you if you explain what you want to do and are nice about it.

I've got one from a mid eighties Cadilac on mine. Anything that switches between a vacuum source and vent and has about 40ohm resistance coil should work fine.