WoodsWagon

the front controll arms have bushings on the inner ends. The rear links have bushings at both ends. Check all of them. Wrong springs could be the problem, but check the bushings first. Stickers and great stuff or comparable expando-foam in a can for the rust. I can't recall if it is an auto or a manual, but if it is an auto, possibly the flex plate that holds the torque converter to the engine could be cracked. That can make loud clunking noises while you drive the car. Differentials rarely break.

Well, it sounds like the car is ripe and ready for a 5 speed. ditch that autotragic if you get the car, and butter up the girlfriend to get it. Tell the guy it isn't much use to go like a bat out of hell if you can't back up to park the thing.

Don't worry about it. With the stock size tires, the tires should spin before the axel breaks. Yeah, it puts more wear on the differentials and tranny, but I must admit they handle much better in 4wd. The old rally racers used to use lots of gas in the corners to break one wheel free to remove the tension and understeer.

As a fellow modifier, I would also like to know the limits of the d/r 5 spd. Yeah, it was only built for an ea82, but so was the differential. And that same diff in nissans puts up with a lot bigger engines being swapped in. Anyone have a rating that they just kept blowing gears beyond? As long as you aren't doing clutch dumps, it should hold a fair bit.

They should have thrown some wood under it to spread the weight. Why was it slowing them down?

Nice paint job with black under the beltline. I have mine done the same way. See if you can find a parts car to cut the top of the A pillars and the roof section out of and weld it in using a new windshield for allignment.

Read the list of item's he's replaced at the top. Have you checked the tie rod ends? Both inner and outer? Beond that, bushings seem like the most likely cause. If you can, put it on a lift and use a prybar to try and shift everything around. When you find the suspect bushing, it should be cheap enough to replace. Ever run the car without a cat back exhaust? They sound like a V8 at idle, and a crotch rocket at higher rpms. Killer man. People clear outa the way. For the rust at the wheel wells... I have seen stickers used creatively. Sunoco stickers to be exact.

The reason to swap to a 2.2 is the easyness of it. Puting a 2.0 turbo in means wiring, new crossmember, new exhaust, big PITA. Throwing in a 2.2 will gain torque and power and make the car feel peppy enough, for short money and time. True, tuning the 1.8 is kinda pointless. N/A engine's can be improved on, so if you want to start tuning an engine, you might as well start with a larger displacement one. It's easy, it's available, and it's cheap. You will spend less on the engine swap than you would on tires.

This is my supercharger: http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Beav/5073.gif However, mine is not on an svx motor, and it will have belt drive, not invisible force fields turning the s/c It's off of a buick park avenue ultra 3.8l. should move enough for a 2.2 i think.

Posting in this thread yesterday got me inspired. I went down to try and clean some of the carbon off of my supercharger using carb cleaner. Now, carb cleaner doesn't just evaporate without a trace, and all the carbon it washes off puddles with it. So, if you are distracted by dinner, sleep and school, the puddle of carb and gunk in the bottom of the s/c sets up and locks the darn thing. Tight. So now I have to figure out how to free it. Oh well...

That's great! I've used my ground clearance in an urban situation too. You know those trafic dividers that they have in mall parking lots, the curbs with humps of grass in between? So that traffic has to circle around the dam stores for 2 hours before escaping. I drove over 3 of those in a row because I was running low on gas, lost, and and hour from home and was done putting up with their traffic flow patterns.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50391&page=2&highlight=austin+2%2F2 give me a little time..... ther we go, found it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51682&highlight=austin+2.2 Looks doable. part of your problem is the auto tranny, but that takes more effort to swap The 2.2 should move the car better than the 1.8

I'm in for the first saturday in june. the end of june is auto competitions, that is if I make it to the nationals.

What do you mean by harness? Just the short bit with 2 connectors that runs over the back of the block, or the bit that disapears into the firewall? Usually the epoxy that the nock sensor is moulded into is what cracks up, not the harness.

Advise for the future: between the low mark and the full mark it is one quart. So if it was half way inbetween, you overfilled it half a quart. Some engine's are really sensitive to overfilling, will smoke and blow seals out, as welll as causing areation of the oil, but I think you'll be o.k. If you are concerned, you can try to drain out just a half quart from the pan by being quick with the plug. Start with the basics. Does it have spark when it's being cranked? Pull one of the wire off and put a spare plug in it and rest it on the head or a bolt and have a friend crank it while you watch. If it has spark, unclip the air box and pour a bunch of gass on the air filter. Not recomended practice, but hey it works. Then crank the engine and see if it will start. Are the fans on when the key is in the run possition, but the engine hasn't started?

A 2.2 liter block will bolt right in and your intake manifold will bolt right up to it. That will add kick, and the 2.2l are available everywhere in junkyards for probably 150 bucks. Just pull one out of an old legacy. Is your car an auto or a manual? If it's a manual, what are your shiftpoints?

A bad colant temp sensor can cause hard starting, but the stalling is a different story. The temp sensor can fail and that will make the car think it's warm all the time, so that it doesn't start when it is really cold instead of hot. What other checks have you done? Have you checked to see if it has spark when it is cranking but not starting? How fast is it cranking? Does it sound slower than normal, or does it crank regular speed and just not start? How old is the battery? Is there corrosion on the battery terminals? Are the positive and negative clamps tight? Check the Idle air control motor. It may need to be cleaned out. If you turn the A/C on while the engine is idling, does the engine speed up, or slow down?

I'd incorperate the two rubber hoses sticking out of the mounting plate into the snorkel. They used to be sucking filtered air, and now it looks like they aren't Might be time to break out JB weld and some brass nipples!

You'd be suprised what proportion of the spedo an old subie can use. Not like the legacys, which can pin it on a long straight away, but 0-100 gets used plenty.

I know of a crew cab f-350 from the late 60's with a 460 and, unfortunately, an auto that you could get cheap. It needs a bit of rust repair and some interior work, but it is fairly rare. 100 buck's would take it I bet. Joke! It's a total rusthole, no point restoing. But I do lust after the engine. Put that block in your mustang and smoke it!

Do searches for "rimmer supercharger" They are out of production, were not reliable, and are hard to find. Someone who bought one had to take the kit to a machine shop to have it shaved down to be at the same angle as the rest of the block so it wouldn't thow belts. 2 styles: Mounted along one head, piped to the manifold and driven by the accesory belt off to the side. Reddevil is a member of this board and has this style built himself using a mercedes electic clutched M62 Mounted under the intake spyder, pully where the alternator used to be. Custom manifold feeding the heads. The style I will be building for my EJ22. Lot more work, but i think it looks much better and should preform well. Electric clutches make s/c easier, in that the engine is only being stuffed when you want it to be. Unfortunately for me, my M62 is straight drive, so the only controll I have is a vacuum opperated bypass valve. I will be dumping boost any time the clutch is pushed in, which is an attempt to drop the torque being applied to my EA82 5sp, which are not known for being the strongest. I will also have my bypass hooked up so that the pushbutton 4wd switch will operate the vacuum motor for the bypass. Water injection can help keep combustion temps from getting out of contoll and prevent detonation. Some good methods are out, most expensive. One low budget method used the jet pump theory to pump water into the intake using the boost pressure. Belt drives: Serpintine longitudinal grooved. works well, but you have to have idlers to get the maximum wrap around the S/C pully and the crank pully. Other wise it will slip and you will loose boost. Cog belts: (timing belt style) will not slip, so boost stays constant. Drawback is that if the engine backfires, it will strip the belt. Eaton S/C's have a plastic pin that is supposed to shear inside the gear drive to save the rotors in case of backfire. PITA to replace once everything is installed.

Which clutch disk is best? I noticed that my smoked legacy clutch had radial slots cut into the surface, while my semi-smoked EA82 disk was smooth surface. What clutch disk should I buy? It will have to hold a s/c EJ22, about 160hp is what I'm hoping. I already milled the mounting holes on the EA flywheel to fit the EJ. I thought of rigging the recirc dump valve on the S/C to a clutch switch, so that as long as the clutch pedal is pressed in, the s/c is being dumped. That should help with clutch and tranny abuse.

I have 4" lift, 30X9.5" mud tires on chevy rims. The wheels stick out a couple of inches from the body, and the wagon handles fine. Rallying back roads (dirt) in it can get sketchy in 2wd, but in 4wd it handle's great. At 90mph+ on the highway, it deffiniatly walked on corners, like I was kinda smearing the tires across my lane. But that may be the tread and old tires (they do have age cracks in between the tread). The ride is firm but not jarring, and they have a tite turning radius so that around town it's comfortable to drive. It is a feeling like nothing else. Confidence inspiring. I sugest wheels with at least a bit more offset than stock. The higher you lift the car, the more unstable it gets, and the greater offset helps counteract that.

A rugged skid plate could help. And some pug rims with slightly larger tires. If you're going to spend 400 smackers lifting a car, it might as well be 4wd. You can of course, make your 2wd 4wd.

http://www.powerlabs.org/jdmsubaru.htm If you have a good internet connection, he has a buch of quicktime videos that are decent. 25+mb though, so it would be a good time to have a snack.