WoodsWagon

Is it a subaru Vivo, like they run in the aisia market? 4wdfrenzy was saying something about them a week or so ago.

The idiot lights on the dash glowing and flickering while the engine is running is a symptom of the alternator failing. Pick one up from the junkyard and slap it on. It may have failed as a coincidence. The climate control failure however, is probably not a coincedence. The flapper doors that direct the air are operated by vacuum moters. By pulling on things under the dash, you may have popped off one of the vacuum hoses. Do you hear a gentle hissing noise under the dash while the engine is idleing?

So now that it has been asked what's under the hood, will you answer? Remember, even with big tires, the engine is not accelerating a lot of mass with the whole car being light. It would be nasty as a "hooligan car". I love that phrase.

i took out the whole harness from the front seats forward. It is toatally daunting when you first start removing unneccescary circuits. That is the stage I am at, a huge pile of wire and modules on my bedroom floor. All I can say is you better have a sharp knife for all the electrical tape they use.

I've been working on swapping an EJ22 into my Loyale wagon for a while now. Progress comes in fits and starts, but it is slowly coming together. I bought a legacy, beat it up good, took the engine out and rebuilt it. It has all new bearings, rings, waterpump, rehoned cyls, new seals all round, and generally got cleaned and freshened. It now sits in a trashbag on the engine stand. This week, I stripped the wiring harness out of the legacy, which was a decent project in itself. But it is all out and drying in a pile on my floor. It will take a lot of patience to strip it down to it's basics. I still have to make the adapter to attach the engine to the tranny, and find a better fuel pump. I'm aiming for a run date of march or april, so I still have some time left. In the meantime, I'm saving on insurance costs.

Seeing as it's an 05, I'd just throw a temper tatrum at the dealer untill they fixed it free.

Jack the car up, put the rear on jackstands, and remove the wheels. Look at all the suspension componants, the struts, links, crossmember, ect. Compare left to right. Something has to be obviously bent for it to lean the wheel. Guessing at what might be bent is pointless. You have to look and compare to spot the bent piece. BTW, positive camber is when the wheel leans out at the top, negative is when it leans in at the top.

Your car probably has at least one oxygen sensor. If the break in the pipe is before the O2 sensor, it will allow air into the pipe, leaning out the mix in the exhaust. The sensor will give the computer a lean signal, and the computer will richen up the mix of gas into the engine. This will lower your milage. Any exhaust pipe after the O2 sensors (there is often at least 2, one just before the cat, and one after) can be removed without affecting the sensor's readings.

And for the vacuum solenoid, don't limit yourself to subaru's. Mine is running one off of a cadilac. 40 something ohms is what the computer expects to see from the solenoid coils. Then just cut, solder and heat shrink the old connector onto the new solenoid.

How much does that weigh? I can see light through that thing! how many races do your cars last for? It looks badarse.

The differential is inside the transmision. It has small pinion gears inside it which let one wheel turn faster than the other on the same axel. It also lets you get stuck with one wheel spinning and the other doing nothing. If you weld the pinion gears together, it makes the front axel one piece so that both wheels have to spin to get stuck. Turning while going forwards gets harder.

And how much are they charging? $10 and a little time could do the job just as well.

Ha, yes I spelt it wrong. I was in a less than alert state last night. So they have issues properly labeling parts. On par with a Childrens manual then?

I got one for chrismas. Covers 1972-1979. How good are they and how rare are they?

It would be fairly easy as the actuating rod for the low range is on the outside of the tranny. 2wd low would help out for those of us running 30" tires.

Aye' it tis, but now there is an easy link in the thread so that when it gets archived, It will be more usefull.

ITS A MANUAL TRANNY That should stop some of the "put the 2wd fuse in" posts from happening. What he is asking is how long will it be till he cooks the VLSD in the center diff. I would measure the total height of the donut spare and compare it to the size of the stock tires. If it's close I wouldn't worry too much. Remember, the faster you drive it, the more slipping the LSD will be doing and the more heat will build up.

Concerning live axel suspension, yes, the diferential hangs lower in the middle, and yes it will hit things. Just because it lifts when a wheel lifts doesn't mean it wont hit when a rock is in the middle of the trail and your wheels are in ruts. Mabe the trails where you live have lots of space to maneuver, but in my area it's either straddle or hit a tree. I have an F150 with a live rear and I have dragged that diff across more rocks/ stumps. The front is IFS and has seemed to hold up well to the abuse. It also doesn't hit on the same things that the rear does. Earlier cherokees are not half bad. I think you will have to admit that they are a lot better than exploders of the same age. Jeep was one of the last to ditch live axel in the front, which lead to rugged vehicles. But, with an exploder to an outback, we are comparing IFS TO IFS. Jeep GRAND cherokes are too wide to fit down most trails in my area. My F150 is too wide and too long, but the body has been reduced to fit. We are also comparing newer vehicles. A 1968 CJ5 will whup your cherokees arse, and so your mid 90's cherokee will whup a 2005 liberty's arse. So this supports my statement that newer SUV's are losing capability and ground clearance. SUV's are becoming more carlike while Subaru's are becoming more SUV like. So that makes them be in the same comparason class.

Don't even think of turning this into a bonfire of a flame war untill I get measurments. \O / \ O/ Apr and breakover.

I think that the simpler you keep it, the better off you will be. You need a switch that has one input and 2 possible outputs, like a switch that you put at the bottom and the top of a set of stairs so that the light can be run from both ends. Input from TCU l l switch l l tranny / power resistor. I'm not sure if you even need the power resistor if you make sure to always start the car in the AWD position. It depends on the kind of diagnostic checks the TCU runs while it is in operation. The power resistor will fool the computer to thinking that everyting is fine, but needs a good heatsink. The awd system is good enough to start with, so why make your own variable system?

You need a strut? come an get it. I got tools.

#1 your in the wrong forum. The loyale is considerd an old gen subie, becuse it was a hold over from the GL/DL models of the late 80's. It's a good solid car. #2 Pushbutton trannies run off of vacuum. The button runs a couple of vacuum solenoids under the hood by the brake resivaor (sp?). If there is a vaccum leak, it might not fully engage the 4wd and that would let it slip out. Does the engine run worse when you engage the 4wd?

I have to disagree. An Exploder and an Outback are very much in the same class for capability. Similar ground clearance, turning radius, and the only advantage is that the exploder has a slightly beter approach angle in the front. Now, exploders may have a beter aftermarket, so it would be easier to build one up to be insane, but stock they are no great shakes. Try taking a 1998 edie bour edition 5.0l with running boards and absolute carp AWD system trailriding. Yeah, it spun more than the legacy, but that was because it had more power. In the Exploder, bouncing on a rough trail means your head is smacking the side windows. We had more fun in a sport with the 4L V6, because that had real 4WD, but they still are no better. Suv's dont have better capability just because they have frames. My loyale stock outdid a honda passport/Izuzu trooperish Amigo 4door suv. He got hung up on a stump in the middle of the trail that I had never even noticed before. We had to stack rocks (sin of all sins) to get him over it. In review, ground clearance is key, and most suv's have lost it these days. Next time your in a parking lot, take a tape measure and go to the lowest point on an SUV. They aint got nothin over a Subie.

It's not the nuts and bolts that are hard, it's the shims and bearing adjustments that make or break the swap. Will, do you have any links to the websites of reputable suppliars for front LSD's?

Well, I have been known to do 3 point turns on trails with less than propper respect for the shrubberys. So rear armor would be good for that. Mostly tailight protection.