WoodsWagon

Power steering is an all-mechanical system on your car, so for it to have failed means the pump stopped turning for some reason. Most likely the engine stalled. Are you positive it was still running before you shut the key off? You did say you shut it off quickly. The other option is the crank pulley failing. Put a line of white-out up the face of the pulley so it crosses the band of rubber between the hub and the outer pulley ring. Run it and see if the lines still match. Check the crank bolt torque. Put it in 5th with the e-brake on and haul on the bolt. Be sure it didn't stall before spending time chasing red herrings.

On the 90-94's if the clutch switch isn't working right it doesn't tell the computer that you pushed the clutch in so it stalls if it's in coasting fuel cut mode. A failed switch will set a code in memory but not turn on the check engine light. If you just had it apart maybe you didn't plug it back in? Next time it happens just pop the clutch back out with it in gear and bump start the engine.

An intercooler with good airflow and a water/methanol injection system would be the critical first steps to modding in my opinion. Before making any changes though, you need to make sure the cooling system is in top shape. BTW, the point of the adapter plates and redrilled flywheels is to make a d/r 5spd go behind an EJ engine.

Make sure both front axles are in good shape and mechanically connected. If a front CV joint breaks, the lag before the awd kicks in and redirects power to the rear will feel just like the trans is slipping.

It's not just ethanol gas, though that does some interesting things beyond going gummy. And it goes quick. Store carbed engines with the system dry and completely empty. EFI just leave as little as possible in and use the pump to get as much out before pouring fresh in. Cycle the pump to clear out whats in the fuel rails before starting the engine. Stabil can buy you time, but its not a cure. Lead kills O2 sensors and cats. Dead gas is a hazmat. You can get away with mixing it with used motor oil if you keep it under 10%. Or burn it. I've used a burn barrel with a vacuum cleaner blowing extra air in and disposed of a lot of gallons that way. Just don't light yourself on fire.

This is how all the 4eat's I've seen die went. The good news is you can drive them for months like that if you park judiciously. It would be nice to know what exactly fails.

The old gas is what does it, not "sludge" left inside the engine. Until you flush out the fuel system it will keep sticking valves.

90-98 any legacy/impreza/forester center diff will work. It can easily be done with the trans still in the car. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/center-diffs-how-replace-them-46979/

Probably cruise control? You will have to mod one wire on the ECU connector to tell it its now a manual and bypass the neutral/park interlock. Plus wiring in the reverse light switch and neutral switch on the trans.

Put the junkyard engine in and see how it runs. Odds are if it turns over it will run. Then include the busted engine in the sale. I wouldn't want an engine someone I didn't know rebuilt, especially if it was done just before selling the car.

Model year is shifted 6 months off of the calender year. Model year 87 cars were built starting in 07/86. So yours was built halfway through the model year.

Daytime running lights (headlights always on) on the Canadian models.

Well in my mystical theory land, I have seen newer cars run terrible under load due to a partially failed knock sensor that was putting out a false signal but still not pop a code for it even with much better self diagnostics than any EA82 ecu has. Knock retard doesn't necessarily mean that the engine is detonating. It's just an output based on inputs and if the sensor, wiring, or circuitry is failing you can get false retard and a massive loss of power. I'd also ask that you'd watch your tone when calling BS on a suggestion any other member here may offer. Fuel pressure and the ignition coil/wires would also be the first place I'd look, followed by a restricted exhaust. But beyond that you have to look at timing.

The turbo engines have knock retard. So if there's a problem with that it will pull all the timing and the power will fall flat. I'm not sure if 87 still had the separate knock module or if it had been integrated into the ecu by then. Check the knock sensor and its wires too.

Just to point it out for anyone who hasn't lived in the rust belt, all the white residue on everything in that picture is dried road salt.

Yup, that is caused by dead gas. I've had it happen on a number of engines. You'll have to flush out the tank and lines and use a new filter. Any gummy residue left will dissolve and make it happen again. I use a portable boat tank and a spare pump to get old engines running now because of this.

Pull all the sparkplugs and crank it over to clear the gas out of the cylinders. If your lucky it may start after that, but you may have cooked important electrical parts. If you junk the car, save the rear differential. Its worth $300 if it has LSD written on its sticker.

Check the top side of the bores on the drivers side of the engine. When its run low on coolant they are the first to score.

Thats what my dad and I came up with when we made mine. It's all in inch measurements. It dropped right into place and was snug on the dowel pins which is the crucial alignment point. I made siamese bolts for the top ones but theres a few different approaches. I can email an excel file of our measurements and calculations.

With it being a 99, it will have an 8 bolt bellhousing, so you will have to use a thread insert and a stud for the lower starter mount if you use a 2.2l. Other than that its a direct bolt in using any of the guides posted here.

Why not just get a vr6 r32 golf and have it all done from the factory?

Fix the choke or clean out the carb. It should have no trouble starting until the temp is below zero, so something is broken and heating it is an expensive bandaid. Pump the gas pedal a few times before starting and see if that helps.

Carb or fuel injected?

The turbo intake manifold could probably have the spfi throttle body adapted to it but the xt should have come with the "spider" intake thats more like the EJ ones. Not so easy to adapt.

If you have a 2.5i it has a ej25 in it. Why do you want to swap it?