WoodsWagon

Well, my EJ22 is running on 3cyl's, so it's pretty close to the SPFI stock motor. I run 235/75 15's on it, so the spedo is way off. I drove down to Munson mass for a hillclimb event, and cruised down a lot of speed limit 65 highways. I assumed that the engine would be working hard to keep highway speed, so I had it pretty much to the boards the whole way down. Lowest indicated speed:55 Highest indicated speed:75 I decided to draft my friends pickup on the way back, after I had told him that I had had to work the car hard to get it down there. So I ride his tail on the mass pike, but he keeps going soooo dang slow, 56 on my speedo. When we head through the tollbooths, I take off and head home at my origional speed. When I get to their house, I unpack some of the gear and wait a while before they show up. I ask him how fast he was going on the mass pike. He said that he started at 65, and kept bumping it up to see if I could keep up. He had the cruise set at 72mph. So 72actual / 56indicated = 1.285 conversion factor 75indicated x 1.285 = 96.4 top speed. I wondered when all the beamers and mercedes were clearing out of my way....

If you live in the northeast like me, you pray that you never break the outer rear CV, because they fuse to the stub axels. I got them off of the diff, but one diff I had to take apart the inner CV, unbolt the torx and pull the stub out of the diff. I tried putting the CV in the vice and using a bar and hammer to drive the stub out, but no luck.

Is it still a power rack in that rx? Or hopefully switched to a manual rack. Parking must suck with an unpowered power rack.

Hey, I made it from NH to WY in a car in much worse shape than this coupe sounds like, so I think you'll be fine. It's a pity I won't see it when I drive out to WY again this summer, but it sounds like a nice coupe. Always have had a soft spot for those...

It might be the security system making the hazards flash. Do you still have the key fob with the lock/unlock buttons? Disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery will set of the alarm.

The way you have it rigged now, you might as well have replaced the PCV valve with a plug. It serves no purpose if the only thing it's sucking through is a filter.

For the future, if you coat the drill and tap with heavy grease, you can do your work without leaving chipps everywhere, and worse, inside the hole. I do this when puting inserts in stripped spark plug holes.

;It seems darn near imposible to buy just the bushings (which is all that needs replacement) and not the whole end link assembly. Both of my parents legacy's need new endlink bushings, but I can't seem to find them anywhere.

did you put the 1" dia hose from the main plastic intake to the Idle Air control motor back on? It's under the plastic intake and goes to the passenger side of the throttle body.

I replaced my front brake pads last july after my old ones spat out coming up to a tollbooth. The Buffalo subaru dealership wanted $75 for a set of pads, so I got the $12 duralast set from a local parts store. They worked... but I called them my passive ABS system. The brakes sucked, and you could never lock up the wheels (235/75r15's) on pavement, wet or dry. Dirt and snow, yes. Pavement, it would slow down pretty fast, but there was always that bit of excitement when you wondered if it was going to stop in time. I found a set of unused blue Wagner pads in the back of my garage, must have been left over from when my dad had one of these cars. When my squeeler tab started making noise yesterday, I decided to throw the wagner pads in. What a difference! I can lock both fronts on dry pavement! The pedal feels better, the brakes start stoping the car sooner, and you can trust the brakes to stop the car in a closer to normal time now. So pretty much keep away from the cheap POS pads. They really do suck. They didn't even last a year, and they were sketchy the whole time.

#1 get a personal ground strap. It's a thing that has a braclet on your wrist, and a phone-cord like wire that has an aligator clip on the end. You want this on your wrist and a solid ground point at all times. The static electricity you generate by moving around on the seat can be enough to set the airbag off if you stick your finger in the wrong spot at the wrong time. Oh yeah, take the terminals off the battery and leave it alone for a while. there is capicitors in the SRS computer that are meant to keep it alive for a while without battery hooked up. Replace all the sensors and the SRS computer. Don't worry about the clockspring, it'll be fine. I believe the passenger side airbag tears the dash, which would mean replacing the dash, but I'm not sure or not. Best thing to do would be to transfer all the stuf from an outback in the J/Y that didn't have blown airbags.

with the manual tranny, just pull one of the front axels, leave the outer end in and pop the outer CV apart. Drive the car around for a bit. The center diff should overheat and start baking toghether pretty quick. Give it a few drive cycles, and it should bake toghether fairly solid. If it doesn't sieze solid enough, then you could take the tranny apart and weld the center diff up. Someone needs to test how solid the viscous diffs will fuse together. If you want to go RWD anyway, you're the perfect candidate.

1. Totally wrong attitude to be dealing with a shop with. Calm yourself down, and don't get so friggin emotional about it. Pacing in and out of the shop is almost comical. Seriously, pull yourself together before you go back. From your explination, it really doesn't seem like he raped you, unless the $127 is above and beyond the $198 for the two axels. 2. You normally don't "check a car over" untill it's up on the lift. Checking a car over includes looking at the brake lines, pads, ball joints, tie rod ends, exhuast, holes and body damage, and tires. Usually costs less than $40 3. Was the car pushed into the shop? You seem to imply that the cv joint exploded, which means the car can't move it's self if it's a 2wd like you stated. You can't tell if a tranny is bad by just looking at it. All you normally do to a tranny when you're replacing a halfshaft is look at the exterior, so there is NO WAY TO TELL if the tranny is bad untill you drive the car. Which you can't do untill the new axels are in place.

So.... you paid: $99 for one axel before hand $127 afterwards Did the $127 include the $99 for the other side's axel? Have you tried driving the car? The only thing I can think of is they may have removed the halfshalfts by prying the stubs out of the transmission instead of removing the roll pins and sliding the inner CV joint off of the stub. If they pried the stubs out of the tranny, then it's their responsibility to fix it. Ask them the procedure they used to remove and replace the axels. Leaving any shop with an open "look it over, I'll pay any additional charge" is a bad idea. Get the quote and stick to it as best you can beforehand. You don't drive a car to a shop, have new parts put on, and then not be able to drive it back out.

Go fkk yourself, you mid-atlantic coaster. I kidd, I kidd. It's only the masholes that nobody likes. The covers were broken to pices on this engine, and i'd have to take of the crank and cam pullies and the belt to put a replacement set on, and this engine is almost done.

what was the first year for spin on oil filters on the tranny?

or if you jack up one wheel and let it spin, you should be able to pop it out of 4wd.

Well, I skipped timing again. This time it was only 6 inches of heavy slush, enough got up in under the hood while I was bombing through that if packed between the engine and radiator. T-belt jumped about 6-7 teeth on the passenger side cam. No power, and hardly any manifold vacuum at idle. Covers are going on the next motor.

usually they are called bumpstops. The glue that bonds them to the mount gives way as rust works it's way in, and they fall off.

Dropping the viscosity of the oil in the tranny might have a big effect. I know a number of manufacturers went to using ATF in their manual trannies so that there was less drivetrain drag.

Mine's been like that for weeks. If you slip it back over the pipe that comes up over the axel, and use some wire to hold it forward, it works pretty well. Mine sheared off after the pipe came apart up front and caught on a snowbank.

If you read the two first threads in the "similar threads" box at the bottom, it might answer your question. In the future, use the search feature in the control bar up top for something like this before posting.

Well DUH. "he'd push the clutch in and out" I suppose I should have phrased it "he'd pump the clutch pedal, then hold it in again" I'd say it's an 85% chance it's the solenoid contacts.

Would you retain the brat engine and transmission, and run a divorced t-case and the truck frame off of that? Or would you want to run the frame's drivetrain with only a brat body as decoration?

You need to research mass laws on bumper height. Lifting something way up may make it uninspectable, and you'll get pulled over all the time even if you are able to get it inspected.