ThosL

I first bought the Subaru "conditioner" this time around. Still some bubbles, no overheating, then the BD pour and go product, still bubbles; could be air pocket not sure now; doesn't overheat.

No doubt some of the laws of chemistry and physics are against the head gasket fix solutions in a bottle, but based on apparently unbiased reports the stuff does work sometimes. Just check out all the Amazon reviews. But there are lots of people who don't follow directions too.

Good luck with it, it may last a while with normal driving. I bought the pour and go product some days ago because I was seeing some bubbles in the overflow after changing out my radiator and cap. Bubbles started up again. I am not getting over-heating. I may try the Fiberlock product. the key with that is to dilute it enough, use less than half a container in smaller engines, and read directions. Another product with a guarantee that worked for me a while back.

Blue Devil recommends various procedures and their technical service line is pretty helpful: https://gobdp.com/blog/blown-head-gasket-repair-procedure/

Or he could look around for another car; head gaskets could be just one expensive problem. I picked up a mechanically sound Subaru for around $1000 in spring. I would recommend doing a thorough overview of the car's condition and value.

AT pressure/or temp. switch flashing--I just saw the neighbor who said it has been going on for years--computer.

He said it has been going on for years now, not an actually problematic mechanical situation according to him, he has a mechanic.

It's what I have heard a lot before on this board, that the 2.5 engines always eventually failed.

A neighbor was asking me about a flashing oil pressure switch on his dashboard, saying the dealer wanted hundreds on this job, is there a cheap work around? He is a taxi driver and doesn't do internet much.

Not sure on age, vehicle is 1997. I was able to stop the leaking by using pliers to force it on higher after cutting the chewed up hose end.

Good luck getting any justice from the manufacturer, dealer, mechanic, etc.. Unless there are clear contracts, not very likely, they are in it to make money not to help customers later in most cases. You may also want to look at the Blue Devil and other products on youtube videos, just do a search. Read the comments too. Amazon also carries Blue Devil, cheaper than elsewhere but guarantee would not be honored through them. Short term fix at best with both 2.5 and 2.2 engines. It is a lot easier to find used 2.2 engines than 2.5 ones as the HG went like clockwork on the 2.5s around 150K miles.

I used all the products available at Auto Zone, for overheating on my 2.2. One of the products when the leak was manageable, then with worse overheating none of them worked. With Blue Devil 32 oz. product you get your money back if you show a flush product on receipt and do it right; I got my money back from them probably 4x, even got my double money back with the other products, they must love me at those corps!! K Seal has store people raving about how good it is but had no luck with it. With online discount Blue Devil is under $40 at advance. Other short term fixes pull out thermostat so coolant runs fast through system and have the heater on to suck away heat from engine. What a nightmare some of these Subaru problems are!

OK, it started leaking like a ba$tard getting worse. Not totally sure it is the hose. I guess I have no choice but to get it back out to make sure everything is tight. And aftermarket bronze inflow outflow units aren't the best fit in that limited space, right up against the bulkhead.

I replaced my radiator last week with a Carquest unit. One problem; the lower transmission cooling line hose was almost impossible to get off. I cut a half inch or so. In re-installing it I thought I had enough hose to effect a tight fit. I guess not as much as I have tried to fix this myself, but didn't really do it right. Do I need to take the radiator out again, how do real mechanics do this job?

OK, thanks for the insider info.

I went to a local garage last week, among other things for some front end rattles I've been hearing; they said it is the sway bar that needs bushings, he said it doesn't undermine mechanical performance and there is a cheap fix.

I passed the emissions test yesterday after having one of the few non-greedy garages in the area check it out and reset the computer and running a tank of premium through the tank. The guaranteed to pass did not help.

I have no idea what you are referring to there but will try to figure it out.

I have an EGR code to, so it is almost never the EGR that fails? I wish I could find a sharp and reasonable mechanic locally. Going to another Auto Zone to have it checked would throw the same codes? I need to pass emissions coming up.

I just went to Auto Zone; their computer reader came up with P400 and P420; apparently EGR and Cat. converter or similar cause. I'm thinking the economical way to address the first is at a junk yard for parts as $160 is a lot, and the other really needs to be nailed down as to whether oxygen sensor would fix it.

I want to pass emissions which is due for me in a couple weeks, so was thinking replacing the 02 sensors in the front of the 97 2.5 was going to be necessary. I have a local guy who will install parts like this, what is labor on this, 1 hour or so?

I've been noticing low pressure on my cooling system; within a short period of turning the car off I can take the radiator cap off with no spurt or pressured water coming out. Not sure if this is good or bad. Head gasket must have been done as the engine runs very well. 1997 2.5 limited Outback. Also, sister's 1996 2.2 recently had an overheating episode, car usually runs very well with problem of occasional loss of power soon after starting up as mentioned earlier. Stuck thermostat is my guess.

A shop in Waterbury that does a lot of Subarus did the waterpump on my last Outback for a little over $300; timing belts should usually be done at the same time, beyond the scope of most non-professionals.

I found a shop working with the junkyard willing to install the used knuckles; best way to go as my last front bearing job lasted under 2 years. It ran around $350 for both.

It looks like bolt holes will need to be drilled; I thought that the frame with plugs in it could just be punched through and that the trailer hitch frame would line up the Uhaul unit with the Subaru.