nickolai

Does anyone know if the inner tie rod assembly on an 82 GL wagon w/o power steering can be replaced with one from an ea82 wagon? My 82 wagon's inner tie rods have got some play in them and I think they need to be replaced. I have several of the ea82 style wagon parts cars so I'm hoping this is an interchangeable part. Also, is there anything that can be done to repair inner tie rods? Or are they a replacement part like the outer tie rods? Any info appreciated, Thanks.

Hi, welcome to the board! It sounds like you've found a pretty decent car assuming the compression and carb checks turn out good. The ea71 engine is quite reliable, and it's not uncommon for them to hit 250k or higher, granted regular oil changes and good maintenance. The 4wd in these cars is awesome and in my opinion is better than a lot of trucks. I've driven my subie though snow as deep as the hood! It was fresh snow, and pretty light though.... The 4spd tranny is ok for speeds under 60 or so, but if you plan on a lot of freeway driving you will be running the engine at 4000 + rprm. One thing I would look for is rust on the underside of the car. You want to make sure it's not bad in any place that looks like its part of the structural integrity of the car. Also, some common wear items are the front steering/suspension components. Namely ball joints, tie rod ends, and inner tie rods. I would want to jack up the front of the car and try to shake each front tire by hand. If there is any play at all, try to see what part is worn. Ball joints and tie rod ends are fairly cheap - about 15 and 25 dollars I think, and fairly straight forward to replace, although there are some tricks that make it easier. Inner tie rods are more expensive and more of a challenge to get at but they can be done. I would also inspect the integrity of the cv boots while looking at the steering components. Hope this helps. Nick

When you say you did a wheel bearing check, what is that? The first thing I would do is jack up the front of the car (one side at a time is fine) and try to shake the tire by hand - both side to side, and top to bottom. If you notice any play at all try to determine where its coming from. Common failure items are the ball joint, tie rod end, and inner tie rod. Also make sure the big nut on the end of the cv shaft is good and snug. I once thought I had a bad wheel bearing, but it turned out this nut was just not tight enough. Good luck! Nick

Wow! That's some very nice work. I really love those wheels on the brat. I like the idea of awd too, especially with the bigger engine. Keep up the good work! It looks like you may have got something figured out for the pictures, but I'll tell you anyway: Google makes a pretty good program called Picasa 3. it's free, and it let's you do basic editing and whatnot and you can export the pics to a folder in whatever size you want.

My dad had a 97 Outback that was doing something similar for a while. It did seem to run ok cold, but at random times it would lose nearly all power. At first I thought it was the auto trans not downshifting when it needed to, and then I thought it was sensors or a computer problem. He took it to the local Subaru mechanic who did a basic tune-up - spark plugs, wires, etc. and it ran great after that. If I remember right he said it was old spark wires causing the problem. I'm interested to see if the new wires you ordered will help. Good luck! Nick

I can't remember right now which way the disty spins, but I was in pretty much the same boat tryin to get my ea82 running after I did head gaskets on it. Anyway, I had the firing order right but I had the wires backwards on the disty and it was causing just about the same symptoms you're describing. You might try taking the cap off the disty just to make sure you know what way it's spinning.

My car had these symptoms when the head gasket was blown. There were big clouds of white steam coming from the engine compartment. It would also overheat unless I kept the radiator topped off. You most likely have coolant leaking out somewhere. It might be head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, or simply a radiator hose or heater hose that has cracked. Having a bad head gasket can increase the chances of radiator hose problems because A: bad head gaskets contribute to overheating, and B: the bad gasket can let compression pressures into the cooling system depending on where it is blown. White smoke that smells sweetish is coolant, blue smoke that smells smoky is oil. I hope this helps.

Thanks for the clarification. Just thought I would save some money if they are the same brand part. Rarely am I unsatisfied with ebay items.

Yes I have been saved by interchangeable parts numerous times. Thanks for the help. I just purchased all three items. I get what I get I guess.

I asked the seller if he had bearings for my engine and he said these will fit an ea81 also. I have seen other listings saying they will fit anywhere from ea61 to ea82. Are you saying there is a difference between undersize/oversize? I asked locally and was told there is not. Undersize is referring to the size of the crankshaft, while oversize refers to if the block has been bored larger? Also, regardless of these details, do these look like quality parts?

Sounds like a deal to me. I bought my 88 DL for $200 without an engine but otherwise in very good shape. I have never regretted that purchase.

Okay so these are the parts I'm looking at buying: rings http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Brat-Loyale-Piston-Ring-Set-4-Cyl-76-94-1781cc-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b6eacad5QQitemZ170572565205QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories main bearings http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1800-Brat-1800-XT-Turbo-New-Main-Bearings-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4839414904QQitemZ310198225156QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories rod bearings http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Rod-Bearing-set-OVERSIZE-1300-1600-1972-1984-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5aa39ae7QQitemZ250628774631QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Am I finding great deals or am I looking at cheap junk? Thanks for the input so far.

I read somewhere that the head gaskets blow more often on the drivers side because that is the side the battery is on, and therefore is the side of the engine that the battery ground cable connects to. If the battery terminals get corroded at all it starts causing electrolysis with the coolant and eats away the nearest head gasket material. If you're wondering because you're thinking of only replacing one head gasket, I would strongly recommend you do both. Not only do they come as a pair, but if one is blown how much life is left in the other?

Wow that is a nice looking wagon! How many miles? Is that a custom bumper?

Thanks. Wow that's neat we got real similar history! Got to agree on the 82 being my favorite car also. Those rust lines make it kind of ugly I think, but hey, its just an excuse to paint it. I think it would look sick being a deep, bright, metallic blue, with chrome trim, and maybe some white along the body lines. I'll have to play around on photoshop and see what looks best.

Why do you want to swap motors? The ea81 in there is a good engine, if you can fix the stuttering with a tune up I'd do that. Is it the 2wd model? If so (others correct me if I'm wrong) a 4wd swap would entail replacing trans, rear driveline, rear diff, and axles. I think it's possible...

Hey what do ya know! I saw that car on craigslist just the other day. Wow only 35k for $500. I'd say you got a deal. I might have bought it had it not been almost 2000 miles away.

Hey all! Well I'm not really super new I've been browsing around and stuff for a while...what a cool website! Anyway, I'm from Washington State, 19, I've been drivin and workin on subies since I was about 14 or so. Right now I'm driving an 88 DL that I picked up for $200 without an engine. I then had a "dumb sh** attack" and proceeded to wreck this car into a tree on the side of an icy driveway at about 20mph. I didn't take any pics of it wrecked but this is the body parts donor car. (91 loyale) This is one of the bolted-together pieces of the unibody. (hope to do some welding soon) This was actually a pretty fun project....I did head gaskets, seals, and timing belts on the engine while refabricating the body. And this is my 82 GL, all gutted for a 5spd swap and rebuilt engine I'm working on:

Thanks for the input. I've asked a couple people locally too and it sounds like the Clevite bearings are pretty decent. As for sizes, undersize is what I need. The crankshaft was pretty scored so I had it turned down to .25mm main, and .50mm rod. I was just wary of finding them so cheap when they're like $46 on Rockauto.com.

Just ran across another thread that may help you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118503

In my knowledge the battery and brake lights being on means the alternator is not working properly. It could be that the car will run as long as there is enough juice from the battery to keep the spark going but after the battery wears down it dies. How good is your battery? A newish fully charged battery should be able to keep a car running for at least an hour without help from the alternator, but if its only half charged to begin with................

Hi, I'm rebuilding my ea81 and am at the stage of buying the bearings and rings. I would like to save as much $$$ as possible but don't want to use junk parts either. What do you guys think of Clevite bearings? Cause they're on ebay for like $12. Any feedback appreciated. Thanks.

Orient Wa, (north of Colville) 82 GL wagon 88 DL wagon ...and a small junk yard of others for parts:rolleyes:

Hi, I am looking to build an entirely new exhaust system for my 88 dl. It has a spfi ea82. Is a Y pipe into a single pipe my best option? Also, what is a good size for the pipes to be? I read that stock is 1.75''. Should my two pipes before the Y be saller than the one after it? My main concerns are improving mileage and keeping cost below about $150. Are glasspacks worth the noise tradeoff? (I don't mind a little rumble but would like to be able to hear myself think) I found a new Walker muffler on Amazon for $23 that says it's for a turbo and was wondering if something like this or maybe one or two glasspacks would be better. Any info and tips would be much appreciated, thanks.