WJM

Makes no sense.

Put an EA82T in it.

I would use your stock injectors. I've never drilled the EGR, so I dont know what to tell you on that one. If you didnt have to deal with emissions inspections, I would remove the EGR system so you wouldnt have to deal with it.

Get a METRIC feeler gauge. Dont get the one with SAE measurements on it. They are only $5 or so from any Snap On/Matco/Mac/Sears/whatever. 0.20mm intake clearance 0.25mm exhaust clearance Despite what the manuals will say, ZERO tolerance on the valve clearance. Make sure you get them to those values. The engine will run SOOOOOOOOO much better. Even if they are "close" and "in spec" according to the tolerance that the manuals have, it is EXTREMELY noticeable when you have them dead on vs "in spec" but not dead on the spec.

The cam is going to get sticky/stop moving when the lobe starts to make the lifter climb up the lobe. As long as it moves freely when the lobes are not trying to lift a valve, its all good. Use only SUBARU 11044AA610 gaskets. Do not use any aftermarket gaskets. Every one that I've seen and seen used leak/blow internally just like the older SUBARU gaskets pre-11044AA610. For the EJ/EG/EA engines with the "composite" type headgasket, EXCLUDING the 1996MY EJ25D, it is 'ok' to use something aftermarket since subaru does not offer a MLM gasket as a replacement. I have seen those used with great success.

if the cams spin very freely/like butter in the heads, re-use. If there is scoring, moderate to heavy, and they still spin freely, its a toss up. In most cases in they are toast, they will not spin freely and there will be heavy scoring. DO NOT RE-USE.

You should probably replace the headgaskets since you are not going to be far from them. Along with the timing belt.

The vibration here is strictly tire related. Engine load/neutral/off and coasting does not change the vibration. Very interesting otherwise.

I read this wrong. I thought it read: XT front clip on an RX. AkA front of the car is an XT and from behind the fenders and back, its an RX. Woops.

That only applied when you are past the max rated pressure.

WHAT A PROJECT. I sure wish I could take that xt6 off yer hands for some PARTS completness for my XTDL.

_*I*_ had that idea back in 2004. No one liked it. I LIKE IT. I'll do it eventually. CNAT BET O HARSD. excuse me with the bailey snad crow on the cold rockz.

Why not? I have much better traction out of my Michelins on my F-150 at 50psi than I do at the "recommended" 20psi for sand use. Every single tire I've ever used has better performance, all across the board, when running near or at its maximum rated pressure.

Like I said, they dont "suck" in the normal sense that tires would suck. They just have a vibration issue at below 40psi. Conti was the lowest bidder for the specified tires SUBARU was looking for. Plain and simple.

What upsets me the most is that the tires that come on them are actually GOOD tires and I have no complaints other than the fact that SOA bid too low and thats what they got: the lowest bidder supply of tires. A fine tire it is, it just vibrates at anything less than ~40psi in it. When they scrapped the 12 or so tires we replaced under warranty, I got them and I mounted/balanced and run 44psi in them. Smooth as butter on 96 Legacy Outback (barely fits) and 05 Baja Turbo.

I have personally fixed several of these vehicles. The "kit" doesnt fix it. The "road force balance" doesnt fix it (makes it worse in most cases). Replacing the tires with the same tires again doesnt fix it. Replacing the tires with DIFFERENT tires other than what comes on it, FIXES it. What else fixes it? Balance the OE tires to less than 0.10 oz and put 44psi in them. BUTTER.

^pretty much.

Right. I've done it before, but it doesnt save much time unless the wrist pins are super seized in the rod/piston and you dont plan on reusing the block. I did do it that way on an EA82 one time AND reused the engine. It ran. lol

A hammer and flat head screw drivers.

With out having the VIN/Engine code tag, most EJ251 and EJ253 look the same. The PZEV engines are obvious what they are and most are designated EJ252 or EJ254. But those would work in place as well. Use the 11044AA610 gaskets. Compression will probably stay around the same. EJ25# (non-D) range from 9.7:1 to 10.0:1 and your EJ25D is 9.7:1. Everything from your EJ25D should be used on the EJ25# short block assembly. Correct. Thanks for the offer, but I am going to decline as I have no way to sell something like that for that much money. Some months ago I had a few complete and known good EJ255/EJ257 short blocks that I couldnt get rid of for $600. I had to drop to $400 before I got rid of them. The market around where I am is really poor and NASIOC is not proving any better.

Looks like someone finally broke the SUBARU death grip on that fluid. Same with the solid Brembo rotors for 04+ STi. $60 anywhere now.

You'd be surprised...

Exactly.

There is plenty of airflow by the MAF to calculate the fuel required. The MAF scaling is VERY close together at lower air flow levels. SUBARU tells their techs that if the throttle plate stop screw is adjusted, replace the throttle body assembly. It is to be set at the factory and once it is adjusted, there is no going back. Seriously. That's what they tell us. Realistically, what you need to do is find another engine that has not been adjusted and take some measurements and make yours the same.

install an aftermarket gauge and sending unit.