WJM

Subaru 1982 service manual: List price is $71.14 USMB Price is $64.67 Avalible: Fifty Five (55) Someone at your dealer fibbed to ya....I can get them if you want.

my 88 RX has the same....????????????? And my 89 does not have it, but is not a CA car, and its not got an EGR. Hmmmm......???

on HOT days, under load at low or high speeds with a stock thin radiator....yep. Get a bigger rad, and 180 t-stat...and the heat will definatly be gone.

Me thinks replace the O2 first...if not...then TPS.

4.4252 final in low...its 1.196. unless im missing something.

Stright line is possible...the wagonw weighs in at 2664 lbs right now...STi and WRX are over 3100. Differences there... Cornering? Yes it will. Numbers. me=lighter. All things being equal...NO. But im lighter...but the STi does have the advantage of much better and well sorted hanlding stock. with R compounts and stock camber adjustment, its killer. Im just shooting for beating a rolling of the showroom floor stock STi, both of us on similar street tires. Now, with R compounds i think the STi will still be able to nudge me out...BUT...some other things I am working on will get me out front i think....time and testing will tell. I do know that I was only 0.1 second slower than a WRX putting WELL OVER stock number to the ground and STi suspension components....and that was BEFORE I installed an IC and the real rear coil overs...its got a chance. the wagon is more weight balanced than an RX or sedan. Lower CG too... Egggg-zactly. Yes, those are numbers....we al know them well. Im lighter....thats one of the keys. Dont forget that the EA82 is CLOSED deck. Much power potential. Now...warp3: If things work out in the next month with the $...I'll be using the mild ones...and going from there. im going to port match the header pipes to the head exh ports...then doing a gradual decrease to the collector to the size of the VFxx exh housing inlet size. I think that will work quite well. Maybe...i think i will be sticking with the stock turbo, then moving to TD04 when i get a header made for it...then go from there. If I made the header right...and have everything else balanced well...the VF22 WILL spool quckly and do what I want it to. NO, not in the ideal enviornment. I have found the limit running 20w50 in the wintertime with a fram oil filter, and running at 6400 RPMs for about 45 seconds. Rodbearing...gone. Lack of oil. Subspeed dude had an injector halfway clogged...and the side of the piston melted during a long hwy trip... Otherwise...with everything on the engine STOCK (fuel system, oiling system with proper oil and such, cooling etc...) in perfect working order...i dont not believe anyone had found the true limit of the stock crank, rods, beaings and mostly, the pistons. Good point. It maybe not be needed....but...its something to think about.... Good point. i was throwing that large numebr out just to see how people would react. Realistily....no more than 18 psi on any turbo I run....I will keep under 14 until I get a space engine and reliable second car that I can stand to drive for a long time... Well....its taken the abuse of me and Steven...so i think the stock RX box might be up to the 300 hp task...if not...I'll go with a 6spd STi unit...and manually set the center diff to 50/50, and throw a real LSD in the front. True. It wont be fancy or anything...just a simple 2 or 4 speaker single CD/tuner setup. Garner time.... Simple...I watched a WRX's timing as the load, Throt pos, engine speed and sucha nd such changed across the demands of driving one night riding with newscooby over on NASIOC...and learned much. Timing at cruise around 70 mph or better and maintaining speed...44+ spk adv....granted the ECU is aftermarket...a yoshio tune. At WOT and full boost...spk adv down to 14 deg.....hm. and out EA82T dizzys are at 25 or better during similar conditions? Hm...we are loosing something here. From that ECU mirrors the Stock ECU timing control from what ive been told... This is simple...knock sensor....senses knock...timing computer, or MS ecu...takes in all factors...intake air temp...air temp at TB, manually enter what fuel you are running, MAP, MAF, engine temp, exhaust temp and mixture....etc...and it adjsuts the timing accordingly. Easy to say....but gotta program that all in...takes R&D. For sure, im insane and crazy. Yes it will. Given time...it will.

Ok, so it rained a little... I only stalled it once...due to my stupidity in trying to be Petter in Argentinia...15-20 seconds of cranking and foot to floor and it was alive and i drove out. In the pic here was my....uhmm..384072398472 drive thru it. This was almost at its deepest point...i shoudl have rolled on to the deeper part before climbing out the window to take the pic. Anyhow...much fun, the interior is soaked...if the hole from the pass. side seat not being installed was plugged...it would not have been. the door seals held well tho. See the Lincolin Mark VIIXLIVIIXIL (or so) in the background? infront of it is a jeep too...the RX gladly pushed those out of the water. Much fun...much water...SUBARU territory. And best of all..the intake and exhaust is TOTALLY STOCK!

My oh my.......for i must take about 1 hr to respond to this properly....

when I take my GL-10 past 6k and then shift...it does that...going to 2nd, and 3rd. Dunno why...try to shift around 5500 and see if it still does it. I know that mine hits something like a rev limiter around 6200-6300...and when i shift and gas it again...same as you decribe...except a little softer like a rev limiter. My solution was to shift at 5900 or before. Then it doesnt do it.

If you are interested....I would like to be of service to get you a full FSM for it...NEW too. I'll bet the dealer you talked with did not check all the possible avenues of attack to get a full FSM.... a new FSM set for an 86 is about $150 shipped...the 80 has less sections overall...i woudl tend to think about 100 or less would get it to your door steps. I will know more in the morning. email or PM me if you are serious... wmaham1701@hotmail.com

Uuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmm....uhmmmm...uuhhhmmm.... So like...which side of the car is the steering wheel on? methinks the right side.

Unfortunatly for me...ive got the top end tuned now so 100 MPH trips are common....DAILY.....and flying down some back road by yourself, jsut being Petter for a few minutes...you dont realise it until....like...well...umm...look at the speedo.

Uhmm....i said STi dood....

Am I crazy or what? Beginnings: Bone stock 2WD 3AT turbo wagon in perfect shape Now: RX body kit'ed, 4WD 5spd converted FT4WD super stiff and low and loud and way faster than stock with 5 point harness and great sound system with a now less than perfect body and interior (but still in WAY better shape than others this age), Corbeau seat and and and and....etc... Ultimate Goal: Faster than Stock USDM STi in a stright line...and WAY faster in the corners. Daily streetable. Reliable (meaning 40k miles between engine changes at least! LOL) Oh and i GOTTA have the 5% tint job and a new paint job. some FIA cert seats and a nice FIA cert. roll bar and 5 point harness for driver and passenger. am i crazy? Insane? stupid? Here are the mods that I think will get the engine up to spec: Megasquirt and DIS (DIS with a knock sensor and the DIS system is integrated within the MS system and it "self tunes" the timing like i want it to) Delta cams (either the BIG profile for less streetability or the 260 ones for more streetability) Racing header VF22 with a complete Deadbolt workover 3 or 3.5 inch TBE (cat? maybe...muffler? NO WAY!) Forged internals, some kind of beryllium/titanium/aluminium/carbon steel alloy for the crank and rods...and something even more exotic for the pistons Oil jets for the pistons A well engineered oil cooling system OE Turbo headgaskets!! Spyder intake w/XT6 or larger throttle body WRX/STi or a beefy Air/Water intercooler Probably 20-26 PSI of boost High volume oil pump light flywheel and a nice strong clutch and pres plate...with hydr. clutch conversion Hm...lets mod the RX box too....stock gearing redone...really we balanced....top speed would be 200 at 8,000 RPMs in HI 5th. Final 3.70 in HI, Low would compute to 4.444 Quick and tight vicsous coupler in the center...slower looser VLSD in the front and something in between for the rear, VLSD as well. Center diff lock still works Super fast, ultra touch triple cone syncros, and the "WJM Alloy" (ya know, aht teh internals of the engine would be made of) for the gear set and such.... Aluminuim driveshaft with experimental CV style joints instead of U joints Nice ultralight yet 4X stronger than stock axles and CVs/DOJs..... Shall I do on?

I woudl think so...its the same chassis under al the different body and interior differences...but i dont know for sure. 2wd and 4wd tanks are the SAME onthe EA82 chassis.

What? you are going to make a header?

during my trip to germany....i seen a total of maybe 12 in all my travels...from frankfurt, to Duesseldorf, to Duisburg, then to Trier. I caught a GLANCE of an impreza, GDB chassis, all dressed up in the 555 WRC livery. The rest were older legacys (including Marnix's track toy) a turbo forrester, a few imprezas, and ONE loney SVX...and ONE lonely Leone wagon....but it was turbo, and Full Time 4WD D/R and center difflock. It was at Touring wagon too!

Thanks for the recomendation. I am going to play with 12 to 14 when I get the PCV peice replaced and the MBC in my posession. Edit: i wonder if we can use the disco monkey over here.... :disco: Welp...nope.

THATS THE SITE!!!! It is. So is the TD05, 16G, 20G...etc....same bolt up as the new gen IHI ones. They made then to fit SUBARU applications. Once you get past the 20G and VF22....more mods and differnt flanges to make turbo fit.

No wonder they are so gutless from the factory.....i cant believe my monitors!!!!

I'll have to stop by on my way home from work then.

wow, a quick response!! I dont care what metal...as long as its copper, steel of some sort or Aluminium. As long as the ID stays above 1.75 inches...its cool.

its a 2 inch, can be ID or OD, 90 degree 1.5 inch (or really close) radius elbow. I need to replace the PCV peice that keeps getting hot and shrinking and popping off under boost conditions. the place where I found this pic sells them for $26 each plus shipping, no way. Me want local, now and under $5. Anyideas? Another trip to home depot?

So...with my WRX TMIC now installed....and a MBC soon to be on the way....whats the max boost recomendations? 20? 25? I was thinking on 10-15 range....

Looks like you need OE seals.