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WJM

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Everything posted by WJM

  1. I am here. CHeck out this WNC Meet thread, I will be there. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=6956834#post6956834
  2. Even tho I have no reason to really be over there, and there are many reasons to never be there, and people seem to be.....not so nice at times.....I usually...well, always, unless I am in one of the many market places, am in the South East reaginal forum....for the simple reason, i know people on there that live near me, and DUH, im in the SE. Anyhow....sometimes, its just plain hilarious to read thru the posts. Here is an example: ROFL There are LOTS of other threads with lots of comedy...its really great to read it...i found my self laughing uncontrollibly thru one of the threads. I just tohught Id like to share....
  3. The center diff in the newer subes are actively giving a constant 50/50 split at all times. if it was toast, locked together, the drive train would bind up in tight turns on hard surfaces.....the autos are the ones that vary the split, and if that has failed it would only propel on the front. The autos are also the only ones with the fuse you pop out/in to diable the rear and put the drivetrain in 2wd/FWD mode. Also, if the autos are not maintained well, they will bind like this as well...basically, its not a real problem, more of an annoyance to some people. My Dads outback has done that since we got it (130k or so miles) and still does it now at 182k+ miles. Never had any problems from it. BUT...a totally locked center is no good....you will break and axle or something. its not good. The old style center diffs, they were open. They came on the RXs, GL-10's and fully loaded GLs, as well as XT6, some XTs, and some Loyales...and the Loyale RS...note, only in the manuals. the Autos of those days that were AWD were the same as the newer ones....anyhow, those open diff equipped MT subes could be towed on 2 wheels for a short distance with no damage...although still not recommended. yes indeed, you should NEVER tow a 4wd/AWD/FT4wd SUBARU on 2 wheels at any time. But there are methods to doing so in extream circumstances....but there is no way, with out removing the driveshaft completely, that you can tow a new gen SUBARU (EJxx/EGxx/EZxx engine, Legacy/Impreza/Forrester/Baja/Outback/WRX/STi with AWD manual trans) on two wheels and not create some sort of damage. How long was it towed before thw wheels locked up? If only for 10 seconds....min damage i woudl suspect. Get the car into some kind of slipperly surface, and see what it does. Change the trans gear oil IMMEDIATLY. Use Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil, so to prevent more damage and wear in the future. The trans and you will love it. Shifting will be 10x better as well. You could also put the car up in the air on jack stands, and let it idle in agear.... and notice what happens when you try to engange the rear hand brake, easily and in increments....if the wheels still drive, no problem. Whinning sound: Can you isolate the whinning to a corner of the car, or to the trans or engine? Try to localize the sound. I know that on my RX, it whines from the trans....its got 140k miles on it, and that is normal. the only issue with it, the 3rd gear syncro is a little weak. Does it in all gears at any speed....but does quiet down at speed and when its warmed up...but still there and noticable. It also does go away when there is no load, IE: let off the gas, on the trans.
  4. Find one of those short fans...out rig up the elec fan just so... Where'd you get that radiator from?
  5. The center peice is the main issue...and w/out the engine being out of the car, its a pain to slip the belts on with the back covers on...it wraps around the sprocket/gear/pully really closely....
  6. Yes, true. ALL EAxx's, and the ER27.
  7. SUBARURX....Please, oh please tell me how much and if I could get this: Also...where on earth did you find those WRC alloys??? *droooool*
  8. SUBARUTex did that. Search for his thread on the RX build up of his...
  9. Looks like a SUBARU Leone sedan that Miles was carry'in...
  10. The 89 DL i had, SPFI, didnt matter what fuel, or what timing setting, it ran fine. Max timing on the dizzy and 87, great fuel milage, good power (for its stock and tiny flowing stuff) and no detonation. Teh 88 RX...it runs OK on 87....does fine, no det, but its kind down on power. I run 93 in it, its much stronger. Fuel milage is really unaffected by octane....but the 93 is less due to my lead foot with the added pull under WOT!! The GL-10, it hates 87. Loves 93. Wont take 87, cant get it to move its self, even playing with the dizzy, makes it worse! Only thing it likes is max/close to max timing, and 93...and cool dry weather. It hates the hot and humid. DL didnt care, RX is sensitive about that as well....but way more tolorant of the 87. Octane DOES matter...higher performance requirements means you need more octane. The DL, just driving....87...RX just diving...87. DL autocross...87...(im telling you these SPFI dont care what gas, just max the dizzy, pour in 87 and GO!) RX autocross, better have 93, garuntee 0.2 sec could be gained on a 30 second course! GL-10....93 at all times....run race fuel for autocross and what so. LOVES it. I remember asking.... ME: where can I get race fuel? Them: Whats compression are you runnin' boy? Me: 7.7:1. Them: HAHAHAHAHA!!! Its amazing that it runs! just use regular. Me: its turbo, no intercooler, and its hot outside, lets be serious. Them: Turbo? whats that? Listen boy, just run regular. Me: Ok guys, w/e....seriously, Ive got a winston cup engine in my late model. Them: oh, finnaly telling us the truth! Go to the corner of *blah blah blah*. You'll have to go inside and pay first tho. Good luck at the track tomorrow night! Me: Sure thing. See ya'll.....them I mutter *dumb *****'es*
  11. Actually, the car has already made it with its new owner to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. So yes, it would make it to CO...but you would have to talk to the new owner about it! lol But i dont think they would give it up.
  12. Well...the 88 RX...was headed over to Pleiades' place...had pulled some good front axles to restore it to FT4WD...i had everything else (minus a small intake peice, and an inner fenderwell cover) restored to Stock OW condition....mechanically atleast. No spare tire (mount was cut to make roon for an IC), fan shoud still gone, and some interior stuff (stock radio, floor mats, some dash peices) still no quite done yet.....So, it running beautifully. Quiet...strong...peaceful....had enough tools minus a jack to change just the axles....headed up a long hill after a slow tight corner...no power. NO rpms, no oil pressure....some vac....Drivers side T-belt. Pull car off on a small side private property access road...oh, thats right...its got stock T belt covers...and rust is holding the elec fan onto the rad. Great...Pleiades was so very kind to bring parts and tool enough to fix it...both belts, the idle'ler came apart, and the tenioner (what I seen of it) was messed up...i beat most of the covers off with a hammer large sscrew drive....but as night fell...the light stopped working, and the mosquitos came out to play...in FORCE. Hot humid...no breeze....1 minute left on the cell phone....Oh and dont foget to throw in the freshly wet red mud/clay....Rescue comes 1 hour later in the form of a 1996 Outback, my dad. So...saturday's project: Rescue RX. More tools, more parts, and bring Pleiades's stuff back. Get the RX home...and finnish it! Wait...i need gas $ for the wagon...its got none. Anyhow, I hate t-belt covers, if not for those, I would be home with the RX right now.....
  13. We ahve TWO results of before delta cams....the RX i have now and my wagon on 9.5:1. Pleiades is planning on putting his RX with Delta cams on the dyno some time...and I will get the bigger cams and do I dyno run when i get some other things done. My wagon put down 99.2 at the wheel, and the RX put down 88 or so.
  14. Mine are totally nude. Been thru everything...the ONLY reason a belt came off....loose bolts on one of the cam pully/sprocket/gear/thingy. If i had covers, the 5 mins job it took to replace the thingy and put it back in time would have been....wow, probably 1 hr or more. If i wasnt a SUBARU nut...a tow to the dealer! LOL
  15. I think thats before tuning.....i know that on the EA82T, theres really no tuning needed, but After i tuned mine in with timing adjustments....where it was just DA BOMB before....after playing with the timing it was DA NUCLEAR!!
  16. Im SURE you mentioned the USMB, DR RX and myself....
  17. I did. I had no muffler with the stock system, and a cone filter on the MAF....dont expect too much excitement until about 5500 RPM....on the SPFI EA82, it opens up the top end...doesnt do much for the low eng and mid range thats really noticeable....at least on the 3AT i had. On an EA82T, it makes all the difference in the world. I would try to go with the bigger profile cam in the EA82 SPFI.
  18. So....a trip to NAPA to get 10 ft of vac line, and a small engine fuel shut off valve mad of plastic....and route the lines to the cockpit, and insert the valve...and hook up one line to the engine vac, and the other end to the BOV...and bam, turn the valve off, smooth idle!! Ive not done a running test yet, but Im sure there will be positive results.
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