WJM

Umm...I never planned to get away. I never planned to dump the EA82. diyautotune.com

That means its time for double the headaches! Soon I'll have a 3rd one...as soon as I get time to go an GET it from NC... Here's the plan.. my 87 will stay on course for the AEM/16G/Meth/etc etc... The 88...actually this one I owned before...before me it was pleadies's...then i sold it to JWX, and now I have it again... it will be the full time MegaSquirt machine. The other 87...if I ever get it...will be the Girlfreind's play toy so she doesnt break her WRX anymore. According to everyone and their brother's sister's aunt's freind who has a 5th cousin....batch fire works just fine. So....I'll give it another shot...and if not, the MS can do BANK fire....meaing I can fire the 1-3 side independently of the 2-4 side...so, I'll give it another round. This time, since I'll have 4 other cars to choose from on a daily basis...I'll REALLY give it a go.

5MT Outback turbos....2005+ Various JDM turbo items...

Well...I cannot give my driving too much credit...I'll get a whole bunch of :rolleyes: :rolleyes: from people. But yes, *MOST* of the people I've beaten were mediocre...however, I have kept pace with, and outrun some very good drivers.

I was thinking about some aero work....

Yeah...something like that. Trans out. Shifter union (the piece on the shifter arm). Transfer case, remove center diff and transfer shaft. Extension case w/shifter arm. 4 bolts on rear pinion bearing. all small and large main case bolts lay on LH side...aka the LH side of the trans facing down. remove RH side of case. remove mainshaft remove driven/pinion shaft. remove front diff. remove crown gear. install crown gear on new LSD. Install new bearings on LSD install LSD into main case. install pinion/driven shaft. install 2 of the 4 bolts into the LH side of the rear pinion bearing at FSM TQ (21 ftlbs IIRC) Check and adjust gear backlash. At this point, once the backlast is done, assembly-installation is the reverse of uninstall/dissasembly.

Nah... Tho, I will take it back. Case bolt TQ values and the measurements for the shift forks are very important. Really, the only good gear backlash explanation is in the early 3AT books...the 5mt, 6mt, 4EAT, and D5AT books are horrible at explaining the gear backlash. Those cars definatly dont have an unlimited amount of grip. Lets face it, the WRX is weaksauce. The EVO is only slightly better, until you get an EVO 9. More on this later. However, the STi is 3 levels of status. The 04 is fast. The 05 is faster. The 06 is fastest. The 07 is untested...with less caster, better gearing, a Torsen rear diff, improved ECU dynamics, and a different stock turbo...it may prove to be better than the 06. But after driving almost anything you can imagine from 04 to 06...the 06 is best, by FAR. With the normal WRX...in stock form, they are a rather poor excuse for a performance car. However, they are EXCELLENT in the market corner that they are in: a sporty, economical 4 door. However, when pushed hard, the EJ205 is weak. The 5spd will not put up to the average person's abuse unless you sink $6k into putting PPG gears into it, and on top of that...the open front, viscous center and WEAK-A$$ VLSD rear promotes terminal understeer. Fix the front and rear diffs, 70% of the push goes away right there. Setup the suspension, possibly change the center, and you can get very acceptable handling for a PERFORMANCE sports car...like the STi. But then you overpower the brakes with the enormous weight....etc etc etc... The 06+ WRX is a much better step. Brakes, AL susp. parts, EJ257 w/AVCS...etc etc...However, small TMIC, small turbo, and still a 5spd. :-\ Still weaksauce to me. As for the EVO....the EVO 8 and EVO 8-MR is a COMPLETE letdown. 03-04's has open front diffs, a clutch type rear that was a step above the JUNK in the 04-06 STi...but unless you did something stupid....it was terminal understeer on throttle. IIRC the 05's got helical fronts and active center diff....like the MR...but the MR's that I've driven were worse than the normal ones and the RS's. Laggy, pushy, twitchy....and its still just a Lancer with a turbo and 4WD. However...the EVO 9 is....is completely what the EVO 8's should have been. The MIVEC (Mitsu's version of AVCS) makes the boost instant like an STi, the diffs do what they SHOULD do...so, the car feels MUCH better. Nearly zero lag, very neutral (point and GO!)...and with NICE leather seats. A MUCH better Lance with a turbo and 4wd. The point of all that...the cars have a ton of grip, but you have to massage them to get even more. And in the end...you spend alot of money on them to make that massive grip over stock. Even before all the intensive suspension work on my RX...and definatly before the diffs were a though...I had no problems running down stock STi's/EVOs/WRX's...even lightly to moderately modded ones. When it came to ones with high HP levels, I could only keep up in areas that the larger turbos could not get to full boost, at that point I was all over them and either passing to letting them get some distance. Now, with 100% more developed suspension, the 2 new diffs, and ATLEAST 300 at the wheels...I am sure that I'll be able to outrun anything in the $40,000 to $80,000 range on a road course.

Alot of things dont help alot of people. You do not need an FSM to do the front diff.

eBay. No FSM needed. It is simple. that and I have unlimited resources for FSM's 1980 to present.

Phantom Grip. As for laymans terms.. on throttle push is greatly reduced.

Damnit, CO is a little far to go an play transmission one afternoon....

I'm about to get an 02 WRX trans... Plan: Keep 3.70 final drive, install Viscous center diff along with my Helical into the RX box. I'll need the pinion and driven shafts, as well as the extension and transfer housings to complete this. Hopefully not the main shaft...but I've got lots of those... Then...it'll be great. massive trac-SHUN!

Coolness.

Like yeah, it runs. Now if his slack a$$ would go get an ignitor...

Ok, I know a few of you guys have this gadget on your cars.... I've got he HKS version. Now, since I got some Japanese instructions I cant make any sense out of...who's got the english versions?

I am considering doing an ER27 if I end up having time in the next few years... 2.7 vs 2.5....that and two more cyls...hehehehe

Use large hammer to get the CV off the shaft.

Umm....ttiwwop? I think there's an axle that'll work....i just dont remember which one. IIRC...all the EJ's are 25 spline....but that doesnt mean there isnt an axle shaft that wont work/interchange to work. I wonder...if you could swap the 23's for 25's in the actual diff. MT or AT?

A Solo-1 (now Time Trials) Legal bolt in Rollbar. Foggers are ENTIRELY illegal in all Solo classes and time trials, plus useless at track speeds. Really, its only good while stopped, to prevent heat soak. Spraying water or meth works the entire spray duration (where and whenever you want it and for however long) until you run out of water or meth. Its not a gamble. Tuners who know what they are doing with the addition of water and/or meth mean buisness, and its worth every bit. The ONLY gamble you take with the injection is the system. Use cheap parts, reliability goes down. Use the best and you get 0.01% failure rate. With SMC's redesigned pump seals, the meth will not beable to eat away at the seals and destroy the pump. This was only an issue with underhood kits during the summer; the meth would boil in the pump and kill it once it ate the seals. With water, that is not a problem...and with a trunk mounted kit, running either meth or water, or a meth-water mix, it is no longer an issue.

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZT, wrong. Welcome to the new age of Engine Control Sytems. The WRC teams know how to tune, yet they ALL use water injection. But when you have intake air temps of over 300* F, even with a VERY efficient intercooler....there HAS to be a way to control that and/or bring it down... A mist of water before the entry into the combustion chamber=MUCH cooler intake charge. Methanol injection is 2 fold: 1: It absorbs A TON more heat energy than water due to its alchohol properties, and brings the intake charge down approx 100 to 150 F. 2: It also COMBUSTS. Say you've got an STi with a stock turbo and tuned to 'stage 2'...so you're making about 280/330 to the wheels....use the M15 nozzle and spray meth, tune for it and you end up around 340/420 at the wheels. I cannot spray the Meth at SCCA events or most other Time Trial classes...but water injection is allowed. Water injection will cool the intake charge around 90* F on average, and with tuning, it will add more power along with an added safety margin. I want a fast, safe and reliable setup. Cost is not an object in this build.

So...after waiting and waiting....aquiring parts here and there...over there...over here....some there....etc etc... I have a complete EJ257 (USDM Spec) Longblock assembly. Hm....I wonder...what should I do with it? AEM to control it and the AVCS: Check 16G Turbo for up to 340 AWHP/420 AWTQ: Check SMC Water/Methanol Injection Kit: Check Odds and ends to run the engine: Check 340/420 at the wheels with Insta-BOOST in an AWD chassis that weighs in at 2600 lbs fully loaded with all fluids=t3h f4stAr. Keep in mind that I've not given up on the EA82 yet....I'm still working on it, fabbing up the new intake manifold, TBE, and doing the wiring for the AEM...along with finding the $ for tires (225/45/15's on the 15x8 Superlites), installing goodie-goodie LSD's...brakes, etc.... But if the EA82T cant make ATLEAST 240/240 at the wheels reliably after I'm done...the EJ257 will go in....and will surely break every gear in the RX's transmission. I guess it'll be PPG 1st thru 5th with a dogbox at that time.

its not in MY RX yet. Many others with subarus are running it with no problems.

No. Not at all. R is simply a designation. One would think that since the R180, 160 and 200's are all REAR diffs for JAPAN mfg cars...that R would stand for "REAR" and the 160 180 and 200 numbers would stand for ring and pinon sizing or different power handling ratings.... R160 and 180 internals differ very much so. About the only thing the R180 and 160 share are the bolt up patterns. Otherwise, driveshaft and axles are different. However, the front driveshaft peice between 160 and 180 will interchange to allow useage of the STi 6MT driveshaft install inplace of the 5MT when converting an Impreza to 6MT if using the R160 with a 3.90 R&P set. NONE of the rear diffs would work at all in place of the front. Neither of those units share similar dimensions of any sort.

Its a FUJI specific diff. The rears are Hitachi units manufactured by Hitachi for FUJI Heavy-SUBARU.

Umm...yeah, its a normal helical....it fits....it works, thats about it.